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TPS check / adjust step by step.

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I finally got around to doing this tonight. Pretty easy with the turbo, since the air box isn't there. I was able to use a long T handle Allen wrench to adjust the idle screw.

My sled never really idled poorly or had any problems going into reverse, but it always took two pulls to start unless it had just been shut down.

After this adjustment, it fires first pull, and seems to idle smoother.

Thanks again Eric for the nice write up.

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So if I read this right the TPS adjustment was relatively simple since you didn't have to disassemble the sled? Mechanically speaking I am not worried, just feeling lazy at the moment.


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I just bought a 2016 axys and it will idle for 15-20 seconds (very rough idle) and then die. Is this from the tps being off spec?

Just brought one home myself, tonight. Same thing happens here. Blip the throttle a little and its fine after that. These are PIG rich brand new out the crate, especially with pre-mix and break-in programming etc... But, i WILL be verifying TPS settings with my own hands before making my first trip.
 
So if I read this right the TPS adjustment was relatively simple since you didn't have to disassemble the sled? Mechanically speaking I am not worried, just feeling lazy at the moment.


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Still have to take the seat and tank off. That takes about 5 minutes. With the Silber Turbo, there is no air box in the way, so the adjustment screw is way easier to see and access. The whole process took about 45 minutes. Well worth it.

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Still have to take the seat and tank off. That takes about 5 minutes. With the Silber Turbo, there is no air box in the way, so the adjustment screw is way easier to see and access. The whole process took about 45 minutes. Well worth it.

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Easy enough. Going to do that here over Turkey week. Be nice if Utah could get some snow.


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Just did my 17.

Base Spec .700 my actual was .720
Idle Spec .940 my actual was .954

These reading are as bad as my 16 was and it had issues. Still worth checking this setting if you like things to perform correctly. Eric
 
I did my wifes's 17 today also. My settings were almost identical to yours from the factory. I was a little disappointed after I got done because it doesn't start or idle as nice as my 16. Do you think the 17s have the reflash they were offering for the 16s that had idle issues? Or is it probably not idling as good due to the extra oil and fuel of breakin?
 
Or is it probably not idling as good due to the extra oil and fuel of breakin?

This is a big part of it..... and its also adding extra fuel for the first 2 hours of run time.

I wouldnt be too concerned about it until you get a couple rides on it or at least a full tank of fuel burned through it. Eric
 
Just did my 16 that wouldn't idle hardly at all out west at high elevation.
I had 4.983 volts with the battery hooked up and a Fluke 87v meter. It's a $400 meter so it should be accurate enough. I tried 2 different brand new batteries and 3 different Fluke meters and each time they all read 4.983 volts. Is everyone else getting right at 5 volts on the dot when they check it?

My base and idle voltages were .923 and .711. I set them to .94 and .70. Just have to wait til the next trip to see how much it improves it.
 
Just did my 16 that wouldn't idle hardly at all out west at high elevation.
I had 4.983 volts with the battery hooked up and a Fluke 87v meter. It's a $400 meter so it should be accurate enough. I tried 2 different brand new batteries and 3 different Fluke meters and each time they all read 4.983 volts. Is everyone else getting right at 5 volts on the dot when they check it?

My base and idle voltages were .923 and .711. I set them to .94 and .70. Just have to wait til the next trip to see how much it improves it.

Everyone ive done I get 5.00-5.01 and thats using a Fluke 88 meter, your 87 is more then enough to do the job. Make sure you have a good ground, wiggle it on that chassis ground to make sure its biting in good. Also make sure your making good contact with your back probe at the TPS connector. If your using anything with a zinc coating on it thats not good and it will effect your reading. Try and lightly sand the back probe. Also dont hold the leads or connections with your fingers, your body will mess with the signal. Eric
 
Everyone ive done I get 5.00-5.01 and thats using a Fluke 88 meter, your 87 is more then enough to do the job. Make sure you have a good ground, wiggle it on that chassis ground to make sure its biting in good. Also make sure your making good contact with your back probe at the TPS connector. If your using anything with a zinc coating on it thats not good and it will effect your reading. Try and lightly sand the back probe. Also dont hold the leads or connections with your fingers, your body will mess with the signal. Eric

I did try a couple different spots for the ground. I was using the Fluke back probes that go right into the leads and wasn't touching any metal. Maybe I will try different jumper wires from the battery to the ecu power connector tomorrow while I still have it all apart.
 
Why does some of the connectors say ECM and Not ECU power??
I have ES on my Axys and was told I did not need to supply 12 volts to the ECM/ECU? connection..... Cannot get ( find) the 5.00 inital volt reading using Tonkas' adapter

Also is there a WOT setting or parmater?
 
Why does some of the connectors say ECM and Not ECU power??
I have ES on my Axys and was told I did not need to supply 12 volts to the ECM/ECU? connection..... Cannot get ( find) the 5.00 inital volt reading using Tonkas' adapter

Also is there a WOT setting or parmater?

The plug by the clutch on mine said ECM. To get your 5 volt reading just hook a battery up to that ecm plug. Positive goes to the orange wire and ground to the black wire in that plug

I just set mine. I don't remember what the WOT voltage reading was before doing it but when I was done it was right around 4.25 volts. However it might be a little different on all of them. Some sensors might have a little more range than others.
 
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Set everything up tonight... and Thanks to Eric( SRSXRULE) for this posting.. and a phone call- it really helped- I recorded my itital settings before I went futher and found the following:

My BASE setting was way WAY rich .806
Idle was 9.42
WOT was 4.33

Even thought my idle and WOT was within spec, the base setting made it unaccepatable, as it can throw everything off and.. not trustworthy


Final settings:
Base 701
Idle .940
WOT 4.18
It better run now- or looking at reeds next
 
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Can someone help me out? Not sure if I'm using this meter wrong but the decimal point is in the wrong place with my number. My base setting was 2.35 and I cant figure it out. Its a cheap meter but it read the 5 volts perfect but not when i test the tps. Thanks!
 
Can someone help me out? Not sure if I'm using this meter wrong but the decimal point is in the wrong place with my number. My base setting was 2.35 and I cant figure it out. Its a cheap meter but it read the 5 volts perfect but not when i test the tps. Thanks!

Did you unhook the throttle cable, and also make sure the throttle shaft is completely closed? Make sure nothing is hung up in the throttle linkage. Eric
 
Did you unhook the throttle cable, and also make sure the throttle shaft is completely closed? Make sure nothing is hung up in the throttle linkage. Eric

I did unhook the cable, throttle shaft appears to be completely closed. Maybe this meter just doesn't have enough options to choose from.
 
2016 carry over rmk

Initial
5.03 VDC (two multimeters one was a fluke 101)
Base 0.717 VDC
Idle 0.949 VDC @ 1850 rpm
WOT 4.434 VDC

Adjusted to
5.03 VDC
Base 0.701 VDC
Idle 0.940 @ 1900 rpm
WOT 4.419 VDC

1) Is my idle being 1900 rpm a concern? Should I lower it to 0.930 or ~1700 rpm?
2) MY WOT voltage is still higher than most. Does that mean I will be rich on fuel? If yes should I drop base to 0.690 or ask dealer for new TPS?

I have been fighting hard restarts when warm, boggy mid range, weak top end, occasional backfire when on/off throttle, and occasional backfire on warm re-start.
 
I did unhook the cable, throttle shaft appears to be completely closed. Maybe this meter just doesn't have enough options to choose from.

I dont think its the meter. Double check to make sure you have a good connection and your on the correct wire. your 5 volt reference is on one wire, your signal wire which you need to be on to make your adjustments is on another wire. Eric
 
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