Waiting on a clutch so i can see if it idles. Ill reply back when it comes. If it comes. Seems shipping sucks these days.
TPS check / adjust step by step.
- Thread starter SRXSRULE
- Start date
Ok. Have throttle cable disconnected and jam nut backed off throttle body.
Getting 4.96 volts off the yellow wire and .700 volts off the blue. I was getting .922 volts off the blue b4 I loosened the jam nut.
The OP doesn't say what to do to adjust the voltage from 4.96 to 5.00 on the yellow wire. Any recommendations?
Getting 4.96 volts off the yellow wire and .700 volts off the blue. I was getting .922 volts off the blue b4 I loosened the jam nut.
The OP doesn't say what to do to adjust the voltage from 4.96 to 5.00 on the yellow wire. Any recommendations?
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Loosen screws holding tps and rotate the tps.
I must be missing something here....
If I rotate the tps to get the 5.00 volts out of the yellow wire, then I will most likely have to rotate it again to get the .700 volts out of the blue wire....?
I guess I'm not understanding how I can use the same adjustment (rotating tps) to get both readings in spec.
If I rotate the tps to get the 5.00 volts out of the yellow wire, then I will most likely have to rotate it again to get the .700 volts out of the blue wire....?
I guess I'm not understanding how I can use the same adjustment (rotating tps) to get both readings in spec.
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Rotating the TPS should not change the 5.00 volt reading at the yellow wire. That wire is the sensor supply voltage to the TPS, and checking for 5VDC is just to confirm a good clean voltage source. If you're not getting 5 volts there, then you need to troubleshoot that issue first.
Rotating the TPS will change it's output relative to the throttle position, measured at the blue wire, and this is were you want to see .700VDC base setting with the idle screw backed out. After getting the base voltage set and re-securing the TPS, you then turn in the idle screw until you read .940VDC on the same blue wire to set your idle voltage.
Hope that helps, good luck!
Sorry I thought you were adjusting the tps.
To get that voltage corrected you need your tester to put out 5 volts.
Not adjustable.
It's better, but still does not like to idle cold. The idle could be higher in general too. It seems its a bd issue. I have heard this before. The sled runs absolutely flawless otherwise.
I adjusted per some advice on fb. I adjusted the idle to about 1700 rpm then adjusted tps to read. 940. Again checked idle and still around 1700. Hoping this does the trick. Haven't tested really cold but def better when at 50f anf on up to 100f.
I want to update this. Sled still needs a little throttle when cold for about 30 sec. I still need to blip the throttle to switch into reverse consistently. Setting it at 1750 cold has made it idle clpser to 1900 to 2000 warm. Actually, i am sort of liking the hogher idke though. It seems really responsive on the low end now. Tree riding is much better. Anyone know any downside to idling this high?
When you say, "adjusted TPS to read .940" are actually moving the TPS? If so, this is completely wrong. TPS base setting MUST be .700 +/- .01. To set the base, the throttle cable needs to be disconnected at the flipper and the idle screw backed off so nothing is holding the throttles open. Then check the TPS to verify a proper base setting, adjust if needed. The TPS tends to move a little when tightening the screws so make sure it still shows the correct base setting when screws are tight. From here you can reconnect the throttle cable and set your idle voltage to .940 +/- .01 The idle voltage setting can vary, but the idle at operating temp should be 1700 RPM +/- 200
I have done it the correct way numerous times on numerous sleds. All of them end up idling really well. My current sled with BD turbo will not idle cold either way it is adjusted. Apparently is has something to do with the BD control box. Again, it runs perfectly, just not happy with idle.
Edit: definitely a bonehead move, I unplugged the ECU when I removed the dash…
Alright, I’m having some issues getting the initial 5.0V rating from the sensor supply. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction of what to test. I’ve got my sled torn apart to get this adjusted, as I had a low idle especially at start, and it would shut off when going into reverse.
I’ve tried both a 12V battery and a 12V constant supply (NOCO battery charger). I’ve tested the power cable that I have connected to the white ECM power plug and it’s getting 12.83V from the battery (and similar from the 12V supply). After powering the ECM plug, I still don’t get any voltage reading off the TPS connector. I’ve tried both back probing the yellow wire and have also tried using one of richracer’s harnesses. I put the black lead from my Fluke 110 on the chassis ground and the red either on the back probed yellow wire or the red wire on richracer’s harness. Both get no reading. Is there a problem with my ECU providing power? It seems like I would have had larger issues with my sled if that was the case.
Any thoughts on what I should check next? Happy to provide pictures of what I’m doing, if that happens. I’m hoping it’s me being an idiot and not something else wrong ??
Alright, I’m having some issues getting the initial 5.0V rating from the sensor supply. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction of what to test. I’ve got my sled torn apart to get this adjusted, as I had a low idle especially at start, and it would shut off when going into reverse.
I’ve tried both a 12V battery and a 12V constant supply (NOCO battery charger). I’ve tested the power cable that I have connected to the white ECM power plug and it’s getting 12.83V from the battery (and similar from the 12V supply). After powering the ECM plug, I still don’t get any voltage reading off the TPS connector. I’ve tried both back probing the yellow wire and have also tried using one of richracer’s harnesses. I put the black lead from my Fluke 110 on the chassis ground and the red either on the back probed yellow wire or the red wire on richracer’s harness. Both get no reading. Is there a problem with my ECU providing power? It seems like I would have had larger issues with my sled if that was the case.
Any thoughts on what I should check next? Happy to provide pictures of what I’m doing, if that happens. I’m hoping it’s me being an idiot and not something else wrong ??
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Did u figure it out? It your sure you were powering up the ecu correctly, but not getting voltage from the tps, it would seem like your tps is bad?
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Preseason, tryna work out the TPS settings. Still wondering what to tackle if the return voltage from the TPS isn't 5.00 +- .01 volts. My Innova meter has it at 4.96 (same as last year) and my Fluke has it at 4.98. That's the yellow wire.
Interestingly, they both read .694 volts when testing the baseline (blue) wire.
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Interestingly, they both read .694 volts when testing the baseline (blue) wire.
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
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R
RickCA
Member
Was messing with this today. Base settings would result in a high idle. Landed on a setting of .713 and idle at .925 to get it to start 1 pull and idle properly. Has anyone took a reading of these settings while the sled is running and not off the 12v batterry? The idle setting is like 1.2 and noticing 5.3v going to the tps when off the sleds own power while running. Runs fine just thought this was interesting.
