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TPS check / adjust step by step.

Thread Rating
5.00 star(s)
2016 carry over rmk

Initial
5.03 VDC (two multimeters one was a fluke 101)
Base 0.717 VDC
Idle 0.949 VDC @ 1850 rpm
WOT 4.434 VDC

Adjusted to
5.03 VDC
Base 0.701 VDC
Idle 0.940 @ 1900 rpm
WOT 4.419 VDC

1) Is my idle being 1900 rpm a concern? Should I lower it to 0.930 or ~1700 rpm?
2) MY WOT voltage is still higher than most. Does that mean I will be rich on fuel? If yes should I drop base to 0.690 or ask dealer for new TPS?

I have been fighting hard restarts when warm, boggy mid range, weak top end, occasional backfire when on/off throttle, and occasional backfire on warm re-start.

I wouldnt worry about the 1900 idle speed. That may come down a little once its at your normal riding altitude. As for the .930 idle setting, on my 16 that was too low. 940 idle is more important then your WOT reading. I would ride it and see if it made a difference. Eric
 
I was getting erratic readings with the throttle cable disconnected so what I did was lift up on the throttle housing and let it slam shut and I got more of a accurate .700 time after time
If I just relaxed the throttle housing I would get readings at .685 and.693 so it is best that I found to let it slam shut and it would give me more accurate readings and consistent readings
 
I dont think its the meter. Double check to make sure you have a good connection and your on the correct wire. your 5 volt reference is on one wire, your signal wire which you need to be on to make your adjustments is on another wire. Eric

Figured it out, 100% user error. Thanks for responding and helping me out!
 
I was getting erratic readings with the throttle cable disconnected so what I did was lift up on the throttle housing and let it slam shut and I got more of a accurate .700 time after time
If I just relaxed the throttle housing I would get readings at .685 and.693 so it is best that I found to let it slam shut and it would give me more accurate readings and consistent readings

Agreed that how you release the throttle cable affects how closed the throttle bodies are, and therefore your meter reading while doing a TPS adjustment. If you drop it from WOT it'll be different than gently putting it down.
 
I've had two people IRL tell me that the Digital Wrench adjusts / compensates the TPS without physically adjusting the TPS. So now I'm worried that it puts some kind of calibration curve into the ECU, and setting it to proper voltage specs with physical adjustment is not going to jive with the curve in the ECU.

Can someone illuminate this subject?
 
I've had two people IRL tell me that the Digital Wrench adjusts / compensates the TPS without physically adjusting the TPS. So now I'm worried that it puts some kind of calibration curve into the ECU, and setting it to proper voltage specs with physical adjustment is not going to jive with the curve in the ECU.

Can someone illuminate this subject?

Yes please. This! I'm curious about this aswell. Since I also had mine at a dealer working that Digital Wrench.
 
Even with my settings on the digits i get 4.35v wot. Should i be concerted?

Redid all after i just got a hunch since last and

5.02v idle
4.35 wot
0.953 idle
0.732 base

After
5.02 idle
4.35 wot
0.940 idle
0.700 base

My wot volt didn't change, ignore it or what?
 
Eric does the ground go to the black wire or the black & blue? We went to the the black & blue as in your discretion when we put the power to it the wires would heat up fast.
 
2017 Axys 163 LE - BD Sidekick

Issue: At elevation, had to throttle to keep running when cold. Sometimes took 2 pulls to get started when warm.

Seemed to run fine at low elevation 1000'.

Note: Yellow wire doesn't exist on the 2017 (when mine was built anyway). It is red/white for TPS 5.00V reference.

Before:
TPS Reference voltage = 5.00V
TPS voltage at idle before adjustment = 0.949
TPS base before adjustment = 0.711

After:
TPS base after adjustment = 0.700
TPS idle after adjustment = 0.940
 
Eric does the ground go to the black wire or the black & blue? We went to the the black & blue as in your discretion when we put the power to it the wires would heat up fast.

Couple days late on this but If your asking about the 12 volt power supply for the ECM connector..... You put battery positive to the orange wire and battery negative to the Black/blue wire. When you see 2 colors listed for one wire it means the first color is the primary color of the wire, the second color listed is for the tracer color. So in this case you have a black wire with a thin blue line running down the wire.

Nothing should be getting hot. make sure your jumper leads are not touching either and everything is worked up correctly. Eric
 
Note: Yellow wire doesn't exist on the 2017 (when mine was built anyway). It is red/white for TPS 5.00V reference.


Take another look at your connector..... black, yellow, blue, is the Sensor side of the connector. Black/Blue, Red/White, Lt Blue is the ECM side of the connector.

They change ECM colors all the time, The sensor side of the connector has been Black,Blue, Yellow for years and years. Eric
 
After setting my TPS to Spec's suggested ( mind you I ride 9500'and up)
Found the idle to stay constant at my riding area @ 2,200 RPM- and had a bit of hesatation (Lag) mid-range- but top end was spot on all day.
Pulling 8350-8400 up to 11,000'
So going down a bit from 700 to 690 base, the idle setting to 947 from 940
 
Question for you all. I have called 3 different Polaris dealers and they all say you have to use a digital wrench to check your TPS. Now is that because Polaris doesn't want people checking their own sleds or why is that? From what I've read in this thread everyone with a 16-17 axys has been doing their own.


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2017 Axys 163 LE - BD Sidekick

Issue: At elevation, had to throttle to keep running when cold. Sometimes took 2 pulls to get started when warm.

Seemed to run fine at low elevation 1000'.

I had the same issue as above again this year. I live in Upper Michigan (fine at low elevation) and wouldn't idle at Wolf Creek CO. Hard to start and of course won't go in reverse. I brought your recommendation to our local dealer Marquette Power Sports and they said they have lots of problems with this and their tech checked mine and it was way off. He sets it similar to your procedure but doesn't normally take as many parts off the sled. He did set it to the specs I printed out so I will see how it runs soon. It took him a couple hours. Interesting thing is if they are seeing so many of these with TPS issues why isn't Polaris doing something about this? I have an extended warranty from Snowcheck, but dealer said Polaris won't cover TPS adjustments so they charge a flat $100. Anyone have any thoughts?
 
Might need to turn my idle adjustment up just a little more. Still died a time or two going into it coming out of reverse. Want to try it out on the mountain before I do. First pic base line. Second idle.
023e5ab8aee33115d36fb0eb1f98a307.jpg
90a52607fc2f8b9b4671dc1cc4957cac.jpg



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I have a question about the statement taken from the procedure in the first post: "Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount. Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire."

Is the location of the connector the diagnostic port that is latched into a dust cover of sorts which is by the shock tower, or is power and ground applied directly into the forward most 26 pin connector of the ECU? I suppose both would work, but the diagnostic plug would be much easier to access.
 
I have a question about the statement taken from the procedure in the first post: "Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount. Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire."

Is the location of the connector the diagnostic port that is latched into a dust cover of sorts which is by the shock tower, or is power and ground applied directly into the forward most 26 pin connector of the ECU? I suppose both would work, but the diagnostic plug would be much easier to access.



There's 3 connectors white in color. They should all have labels on them. (DC Pwr, ECM Pwr, not sure on the 3rd). You will need to use the white connector with the black and orange wire. It will say ECM pwr. You can not use to the diagnostics connector. Hope that helps. Just did mine yesterday.


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How important is the wot voltage since even adjusted i still se 4.34volt wot even do the settings base and idle are spot on.

after adjusting the sled allways starts warm,cold on first pull and idles fine, no hesitation thrue rpms. but i dont seem to get past 8100rpm
 
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