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2002 600 XC

C

cat5752

Member
1900 miles. Working on this for a friend, it's his wife's sled. She doesn't do barrel rolls or jumping or anything, sled is in really good condition. When you start it, it runs fine for a little while then starts popping. I don't know if this is 'limp mode' because I'm not familiar with this era of sleds.PTO side plug is really carboned up but dry - MAG side is wet with fuel. Took carbs out and cleaned them. I did not mess with any setting screws. Put them back in does the same thing. Unplug the TPSand the sled runs fine. Made a harness and checked the return voltage coming out of TPS with throttle wide open. 4.29vdc. Adjusted it to4.0vdc. Still pops unless you unplug TPS. Pulled water temp sensor,let it come up to room temperature and it's resistance is within 100ohms of what it should be. Pulled thermostat out - took two times of bringing water up to 120F for it to finally react. Tested the coolant bottle, it failed holding 12 lbs of pressure. Swapped the cap with the one on my 05 RMK (same part #) and it passes. Checked for continuity between water temp sensor ground and TPS ground, yes.Checked for continuity between water temp sensor ground and where it and the TPS share a ground wire on the plug in to the CDI. Intermittent, if you wiggle the pigtail it comes and goes. Cleaned that connector up (had green crap in it) and now it holds continuity. Still will not run without popping unless the TPS is unplugged. I will test the TPS again tomorrow to see if it held the 4vdc adjustment. Still working on bleeding it as well. Had to add about a quart of coolant after running it today.
 
A plug cap may be loose on the wet plug side. If not then buy a new coil off of ebay because they are cheap and they are going out after 20 years. The CDI harness has a weakness on the black ground wire where the black from the temperature gauge and the black from the carburetor, join to become one wire. The one black wire breaks at that junction, and the TEMP light comes on at the speedometer. Then the engine goes into stutter mode. Used CDI harnesses can be found on EBAY. The CDI harnes also has a clip that catches the CDI and it breaks.
 
A plug cap may be loose on the wet plug side. If not then buy a new coil off of ebay because they are cheap and they are going out after 20 years. The CDI harness has a weakness on the black ground wire where the black from the temperature gauge and the black from the carburetor, join to become one wire. The one black wire breaks at that junction, and the TEMP light comes on at the speedometer. Then the engine goes into stutter mode. Used CDI harnesses can be found on EBAY. The CDI harnes also has a clip that catches the CDI and it breaks.
That's very helpful. I knew they joined so I will check that. The CDI locks up great to the harness - it's pretty tough to get off actually. I finally finished burping it. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and bypassed it using your trick. It seemed to run better for awhile (with TPS plugged in) but then started stuttering and popping. I really appreciate the advice! The TPS was exactly on 4.0vdc at WFO this morning. Hoping to get the manual for my 05 600 RMK today and maybe it will have some info I can use. I'm used to my 95s, an XLT and a Storm. This **** is like Buck Rogers compared to Roy Rogers. I'm drinking from the firehose....lol
 
The joint of the two ground wires is good. I unplugged the coolant sensor and bypassed it, and it ran good for quite awhile with the TPS plugged in. Plugged coolant sensor back in, with TPS sensor plugged in and it went bad, started stumbling and popping. I thought I had it, gotta be the coolant sensor. Tried bypassing it again with a jumper, and this time one of the clips for the jumper came off. This sled will run without the coolant sensor even plugged in. But it won't run right if the TPS is plugged in. Unplug the TPS and all issues go away. I used an analog multimeter and ran the throttle back and forth (test harness plugged into TPS), watching the needle. There are no dead spots, needle doesn't jump at any point. With throttle at idle it reads almost .7vdc, wide open it reads 4.0vdc. Which is what it's supposed to do. I'm lost as to why this is happening.
 
Get a new coolant sensor. The engine when cold, will work without the coolant sensor plugged in. Once it warms up, and bad sensor will cause engine problems. The engine will run when cold without the following plugged in: everything on bold handlebars, everything in front of the engine, the coolant temperature sensor, the DET, probably the carburetor connection and the ignition switch. The only thing that needs to be connected when cold is the voltage regulator, the stator, the CDI and the coil. Once it warms up then the coolant temperature sensor needs to be connected. Once you replace the coolant temperature sensor, and the sled still won't run right, try running it without the TPS connected. Obviously, if it only runs good without the TPS connected, then you have a bad one.
 
Get a new coolant sensor. The engine when cold, will work without the coolant sensor plugged in. Once it warms up, and bad sensor will cause engine problems. The engine will run when cold without the following plugged in: everything on bold handlebars, everything in front of the engine, the coolant temperature sensor, the DET, probably the carburetor connection and the ignition switch. The only thing that needs to be connected when cold is the voltage regulator, the stator, the CDI and the coil. Once it warms up then the coolant temperature sensor needs to be connected. Once you replace the coolant temperature sensor, and the sled still won't run right, try running it without the TPS connected. Obviously, if it only runs good without the TPS connected, then you have a bad one.
I have a brand new one that I brought back home, and I had them order a thermostat for it too. It's probably the original t-stat, so probably wouldn't hurt while I'm at it. I will replace one at a time so I know which ones fixes it (I hope) and I'll let you know. Thanks for all your help.
 
Thermostat and temp sensor did nothing. While I waited for those parts, pulled the power valves and cleaned them, as it has never been done on this sled. Boots looked good, no oil on the outside. Cleaned the posts into the engine including the small hole that operates them. Burped/bled it twice after putting thermostat in. Sled will only idle if the TPS is unplugged. As soon as it's plugged in, it start running rough. TPS is set to 4.0vdc WFO and drops to about .65 or .70vdc at idle. Smooth reading change with throttle change, no dead spots. I am curious as to how many VDC the CDI is supplying with engine running? If the TPS sensor is unplugged, should be able to back probe with test leads the + an - from the CDI. I would think it would show 5VDC.
 
You can buy a new Throttle position sensor on ebay for $24, that attaches to the carburetor and accepts the plug from the CDI harness. You can also buy an entire handlebar that includes the throttle block assembly and kill switch, including the electronic behind the pin that the thumb throttle moves, for $37 on ebay. So there are two separate electronic throttle position sensors on the sled. It is too expensive to take it to a Polaris dealer, where nobody is left that can work on this old of a sled.
 
Voltage coming out of the CDI is not constant. My 2005 is 4.84 VDC steady, doesn't matter RPM. His waffles between 4.7 and 4.8. If the CDI is not supplying constant voltage, the TPS can't really report where it is, I wouldn't think. I took the throttle block apart and cleaned all the micro switches and they test out exactly as the manual states they should, both with continuity and resistance (ohms).
 
A polaris CDI for that sled would be part number 2201980. Both the XC and the Classic had the same CDI. You can find a CDI on Ebay for $75 right now. The title is:

2002 Polaris Edge X 600 CDI box​

The voltage regulator could also be bad since it is in the circuit. There are several types of voltage regulators on Ebay that have different electrical plugs. Take a look at the one that you have and match it on Ebay. Since they don't go out very often, you can probably get away with buying used. I see a couple for $41.95 that I suspect will match the voltage regulator on your sled.
 
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