Hope that helps, again location is PTO side above the upper shock mount can't miss it
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TPS check / adjust step by step.
- Thread starter SRXSRULE
- Start date
Hope that helps, again location is PTO side above the upper shock mount can't miss it
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What is everyone using to provide power to the plug as far as connectors? I haven't even looked at the sled to do it yet but notice SLP sells the ECU power up cable to plug right into the connection and clamps for the battery. Is this worth it or are you using something else to connect to the connector?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Does anybody know the screw size for the TPS sensor?
Just in case anyone strips the bolt like it did it is a 10-32 x 5/8"
Just in case anyone strips the bolt like it did it is a 10-32 x 5/8"
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If you don't want to back probe your TPS Troy sells some really nice plug and play TPS products including a power up cable that plugs directly into your ECM power port.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-POW...704986?hash=item41b8775e9a:g:RaUAAOSw4GVYN1HN
Out of curiosity has anyone checked there TPS with with a multi meter while it was hooked up to Digital Wrench to see how different they are?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-POW...704986?hash=item41b8775e9a:g:RaUAAOSw4GVYN1HN
Out of curiosity has anyone checked there TPS with with a multi meter while it was hooked up to Digital Wrench to see how different they are?
I would say yes. I have a MY 2016 SKS. Mine was way off on the base setting.
Before adjustment
Idle: 0.945
Base: 0.755
WOT: 4.33
After
Idle: 0.940
Base: 0.701
WOT: 4.25
I had this "boggy" sound when WOT, and only pulling 8050rpm. When I let of the trottle just a few %, rpm would raise to 8300rpm, and the sound of the engine turned good.
After adjustment it now pulls 8300rpm all the time, and sounds crisp.
So the other day I had a guy coming into my workshop with a 2016 RMK that was behaving similiar to mine.
Checked the TPS, and the base was at .711. Not bad. WOT at 4.39.
Adjusted base setting down, and checked if wot would follow, but it only went down to 4.35@wot, even if I lowered base to .680.
Tried a New TPS sensor, but still the same.
Removed trottle bodies and inspected it. It was obvious that the plates was moving past horizontal when WOT.
What I think, is that there is some difference in the casting of the trottle bodies. They might have hundres of casting molds, and some of them might be a little of, resulting in the tab that stops the trottle blades rotating when WOT, are under sized.
So on this sled I grinded it flat, drilled and tapped it, and made an adjustable stop for the trottle blades.
Adjusted the stop so WOT tps value was 4.25V, with the base and idle as pr spec.
Testrun of the sled @ sealevel it pulled 8200rpm with bumping to 8300rpm when traction was bad. Nice and crisp sound of the engine also.
Guy owning the sled is going to run it @ a little higher elevation this weekend. Will know more after the weekend if it was success.
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Daltech that may be the Axys post of the year! I have the same WOT 100 RPM drop and boggy sound over the top 10% of throttle travel.
I had always thought the throttle bodies may be opening too much, and I tried looking at that when I re-did my TPS adjustment last month, but with the bodies on the sled and intake mostly in the way I couldn't see for sure if they were turning past wide open.
How tough is it to get the throttle bodies right off the sled? Can you provide a few steps? Say tank is off, intake boots are off bodies, what then?
I had always thought the throttle bodies may be opening too much, and I tried looking at that when I re-did my TPS adjustment last month, but with the bodies on the sled and intake mostly in the way I couldn't see for sure if they were turning past wide open.
How tough is it to get the throttle bodies right off the sled? Can you provide a few steps? Say tank is off, intake boots are off bodies, what then?
What I did, was to remove clutch cover, and let the oil tank rest on the primary clutch. That way you get good access from the side.
Take the boot clamps of the rubber boots on airbox, unhook coils, and cut the zip tie holding the cables to the airbox under the coils.
Then you can remove the airbox completely. I take it out true the back. You ha to twist it and use some force to get it back. The coolant hose going across the tunnel behind the airbox needs to be bent away while taking the airbox back.
When airbox is removed, cut 2 or 3 zip ties on the trottle body holding the cables for the injectors and TPS sensor.
Unhook coolant hoses in and out of trottle bodies and plug them.
Then just loosen the clamps that hold the TB to the reeds. Since the axys has electrical oil pump, there is no shaft from the TB to the oil pump.
Ohh, and loosen the trottle cable from the TB.
Done.
Take the boot clamps of the rubber boots on airbox, unhook coils, and cut the zip tie holding the cables to the airbox under the coils.
Then you can remove the airbox completely. I take it out true the back. You ha to twist it and use some force to get it back. The coolant hose going across the tunnel behind the airbox needs to be bent away while taking the airbox back.
When airbox is removed, cut 2 or 3 zip ties on the trottle body holding the cables for the injectors and TPS sensor.
Unhook coolant hoses in and out of trottle bodies and plug them.
Then just loosen the clamps that hold the TB to the reeds. Since the axys has electrical oil pump, there is no shaft from the TB to the oil pump.
Ohh, and loosen the trottle cable from the TB.
Done.
Has anybody had theirs loose the setting for lack of better term? I set mine perfect. Was still idling a little low and reverse wasn't quite perfect. So I was going to turn the idle up to .950. When I got in there to do it. Figured I'd check everything again. Both settings base and idle. Weren't where I set them. So I proceeded to start over and reset both. I set my base. Then I'd work the throttle a couple times by hand. Still no throttle cable on it. The setting would change ever so slightly. The TPS is tight as I can get it. Would this be a sign of a bad TPS? It also seemed all over the place when trying to adjust it. Not as smooth as the first time.
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I have set mine 3 times on my personel sled and each time-it has changed slightly.
Marked the TPS bonnet and it has not moved but settings seem to like to play there own game and not stay put.
I attribute it to the throttle plates as in my posting on several pages back in this thread.
After setting it this last time I went from the min end of the spectrum on each setting, it runs fine-and goes into reverse just fine ( doesn't die)
Idles @ 1550 @ all elevations now, from 7,000' here at my shop, to 11,300' that I rode 2 weeks ago.
Yes my throttle plates are completly horizional at WOT, but plate position is some part of the reason-and throttle cable is within spec.......
Maybe wearing the hand grip to thin on each ride from the thumb throttle... LOL and opening to farther/farther ..Ha..Ha
1500 miles will be on the sled after next weekend ride.
Marked the TPS bonnet and it has not moved but settings seem to like to play there own game and not stay put.
I attribute it to the throttle plates as in my posting on several pages back in this thread.
After setting it this last time I went from the min end of the spectrum on each setting, it runs fine-and goes into reverse just fine ( doesn't die)
Idles @ 1550 @ all elevations now, from 7,000' here at my shop, to 11,300' that I rode 2 weeks ago.
Yes my throttle plates are completly horizional at WOT, but plate position is some part of the reason-and throttle cable is within spec.......
Maybe wearing the hand grip to thin on each ride from the thumb throttle... LOL and opening to farther/farther ..Ha..Ha
1500 miles will be on the sled after next weekend ride.
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So I'm at my third time trying to get mine set. Once I get throttle cable unhooked and idle adjustment backed off enough to not be touching. I cycle the throttle bodies several times by hand and let them slam shut. I then set my base to .700. One I set it and tighten screws back down. I cycle the throttle bodies again and let them slam shut. As soon as I do that. I lose my base setting at it goes to .68*. Could I have a bad TPS? I took a video. But it won't let me post it. It has happened several times tonight.
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Ok. I'll see if I get some more consistent readings that way.
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Trust me, it's worse when your sled is only doing 7950 at 80% and then hearing the sled change tone and drop to 7800 at 100%.
I did a bunch of things to mine since the last trip. Will know the results in about 9 days.
-Made a throttle limiter to limit WOT travel
-Did the exhaust valve relearn procedure
-Flashed latest ECU firmware
-Did the TPS setup for fifth time, this time full procedure via digital wrench
Edit: Only interesting code was P1407 EV Actuator Position Driver Voltage Low, 7 counts.
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As mentioned above I added a spacer to the throttle body stop, which limits its travel. I felt this helped a lot. Now between 90% and 100% throttle I can hear _almost_ no difference in exhaust note and observe _almost_ no change in RPM.
It's nice being able to simply squeeze the lever rather than trying to feather it around 90%.
Still not seeing the RPM I want. But it's more rideable now.
It's nice being able to simply squeeze the lever rather than trying to feather it around 90%.
Still not seeing the RPM I want. But it's more rideable now.
Hey GrMonky3406, "Im considering an SKS. Would you get another or something else. Needs bulk head radiator for unexpected hardpack. I ride Colorado. Need a sled that will do it all. Trails, deep, trees. Lots of trails to get to deep. When I trailer from Texas , no telling what conditions will be when I get there or where I go. Thanks ahead.
Hopefully this link works. It's a video of a gauge playback from a day last week, probably about 7500' and -7C. 2016 163x3, only power train changes are 10-62 weights in primary, blue-pink spring, and double delrins under spring cup.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KInVLUUoHgb3Y5SVcxczdxQ1U
J
Jona$
Active member
How did it work out, i had the same idea and yeah it sounds logical.
gonna check motor mounts , E-VES cables , alignment again on sheaves aswell.
Edit. Did a stop and finally im at right values. Thanks.
e-ves was spot on aswell motor mounts and alignment.
good to go
gonna check motor mounts , E-VES cables , alignment again on sheaves aswell.
Edit. Did a stop and finally im at right values. Thanks.
e-ves was spot on aswell motor mounts and alignment.
good to go
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My '16 starting having the low idle issue and not wanting to go into reverse last spring. Because it still has 2 weeks of warranty left I dropped it off at a dealer. They got to work on it right away, found the idle setting was low (.900v) and adjusted it(.930v). Unfortunately, now sled wont run for more than a minute, keeps fouling plugs. 
I asked the tech if he set the baseline on the TPS before adjusting the idle? The response was "there is only one adjustment on the TPS and it is done with the computer!
Can the dealer change the TPS setting with digital wrench without physically adjusting anything?
I asked the tech if he set the baseline on the TPS before adjusting the idle? The response was "there is only one adjustment on the TPS and it is done with the computer!
Can the dealer change the TPS setting with digital wrench without physically adjusting anything?
