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TPS check / adjust step by step.

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I checked mine after issues idling when cold and needing a blip of throttle when starting warm.
Findings:
Idle before:.92v
Base before:.718v

Idle after:.94v
Base after:.70v

She now starts in the cold without needing to hold the throttle and doesn't require any throttle input when warm starting it. Problem fixed. I had this issue on my 2013 pro as well from the factory.

And I will say with the tighter fitting Axys chassis, and the one piece airbox makes taking it apart a bit of a chore, but I am sure I will get good at it like I did with the Pro.

The "having to give it throttle when warm starting her" was the biggest reason I did my buddies...that's bull crap that a fuel injected sled needed half to full throttle to start it when warm.
 
One pic of her ripped all the way down...

Don't be scared, it looks a lot worse than it is. Literally not that many tools required...flat head screwdriver, phillips screw driver, spring puller, wire snip, 10mm socket, 8mm wrench, 2.5mm allen, some wire to hook her to a 12v power source, and a quality multimeter. I might be forgetting a tool or two, but it's really not that bad following Eric's directions above!
 
So . . . having dealt with the low idle, dying when trying to use reverse, wouldn't stay running when started cold without feathering the throttle, low idle at elevation, wouldn't rev higher from 3/4 throttle to full throttle . . .and all those things others have mentioned, i took the sled to the dealer. Also took all the info originally posted by SRXSRULE.

The dealer found the following on the TPS on my sled:
Base was .708
Idle was set at .938.
They made adjustments "by the book" to the following.
Base changed to .697
Idle changed to .937.
Will this work as well as what was recommended above? (base .700 and idle .940)

Wondering if it has more to do with the "spread" of the numbers rather than the actual numbers themselves . . .? The spread was .230 at the start (.938 - .708 = .230) Now it is .240 (.937 - .697 = .240). The spread (.240) is the same as what it is using the recommended settings in the original post (.940 - .700 = .240)

Any thoughts on this . . ?


I think they could have taken a little more time and got yours closer to the correct specs...it's a bit touchy to get things tight and still end up with correct readings. Let us know how yours runs now though!
 
So whats the point of having to take the fuel tank and air box off? Is it to gain access to the idle screw? Im doing a 2013 pro now and I just lifted the clutch cover and oil tank to get access to the sensor and the idle screw is right on the other side behind the silencer.
 
I think they could have taken a little more time and got yours closer to the correct specs...it's a bit touchy to get things tight and still end up with correct readings. Let us know how yours runs now though!

Me too!! And i will post how she runs once the storms pass and i get to shred some of this awesome powder that has fallen over the last few days!! =)

Still curious if the "spread" of the numbers (.240) is the most important, or the numbers themselves (.700 base, and .940 idle). Any comment on that from anyone who has the same spread but with different base and idle numbers?
 
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So whats the point of having to take the fuel tank and air box off? Is it to gain access to the idle screw? Im doing a 2013 pro now and I just lifted the clutch cover and oil tank to get access to the sensor and the idle screw is right on the other side behind the silencer.


Location of idle adjustment has been moved from the previous friendly spot...
 
atleast its still serviceable. Eventually i bet Polaris will have a fixed position TPS, digitally adjusted. So we have no option but dealer DW adjustment. Which, could be a good thing, as long as they can have it hold reliably.
 
My sled only reads 4.97 volts going to the tps, would this be a problem for the poor idle? My sled is a 2012 but I do have the new vforce reeds and from what I have read is the tps set up is the same. Does anyone know what would cause it to be only sending 4.97 volt?
 
My sled only reads 4.97 volts going to the tps, would this be a problem for the poor idle? My sled is a 2012 but I do have the new vforce reeds and from what I have read is the tps set up is the same. Does anyone know what would cause it to be only sending 4.97 volt?

Only a couple of options, poor connection with your test leads, or the meter your using is accurate enough. Eric
 
I was using a mac tools multimeter so I thought that would be fairly accurate. I set the tps based on that 4.97 volts to start with, do you think I will have running issues with that? I haven't had a chance to try it out yet
 
I was using a mac tools multimeter so I thought that would be fairly accurate. I set the tps based on that 4.97 volts to start with, do you think I will have running issues with that? I haven't had a chance to try it out yet

Guessing both of your settings will be .03-.04 volts too high.
Even if its off that amount you should still be close enough to not cause a problem. Ride it and see.
If you end up redoing the adjustment, when you check your supply voltage and dont see 5.00-5.01 with your meter just stop at that point.

I have seen issues with 2 different MAC meters over the years. Both of them had random issues of not being accurate and caused lots of issues trying to diag problems. I own lots of mac tools, but NONE of their meters. Eric
 
FYI...ran my sled yesterday after adjusting TPS per Eric's directions above and she idles perfectly!! Also think it helped the rich bottom end perhaps...
 
Most people on here wont have a Fluke 27 to use or borrow is the issue....

One of the qualifications of this thread, for the layperson, is that you will need to have professional quality tools to do the job.

One of the best threads of the season, IMO, however!!



.
 
Changed the batteries in the Innova and game me 5.00 on the yellow. my initial idle was .941. what the crap, why do I not idle and boggy. checked baseline and it was like .743. so now I have adjusted to speck, going to borrow another meter tomorrow to make sure it is good. First time and no idea what or where to adjust, but thanks to the good descriptions, figured it out. Hope she idles better!! And you really do need like a 12" or longer extension. it is a pain.
 
Just got done doing mine, took me exactly 3.5 hrs. I borrowed a Fluke 175, and used the battery out of my 06 Silverado which had 12.24 volts of charge. For starters, the TPS had a supply voltage of 5.00 exactly. Measured the idle spec and read exactly .940, backed off the idle adjustment screw (3 turns was not enough, I had to go 3.5 until the screw was backed off of the cam) and and the base setting read exactly .716. With the idle spec reading dead nuts but the base setting being off, this lead me to believe why I think my sled idled good at home (at 1500 ft) but would not idle well on the mountain, 1300-1400 rpm @ anywhere from 8500-10500 ft and also cut out at times. I proceeded to adjust my TPS and dialed the base setting to exactly .700 and then readjusted the idle screw to dial that back in to .940 exactly. Reassembled everything, sled idles great at 1700-1800 rpm @ 1500 ft, I leave for Togwotee next Thursday, I hope it runs much better out there this time! Don't remember reading it but may have missed it, I highly suggest to remove the exhaust silencer to gain room to access the TPS. I replaced that suitcase with a nice new shiny HPS can while I was at it :) Thanks a BUNCH for the info SRXSRULE!

Sled Tore Down

Base Setting Before


Idle Setting Before


Base Setting After


Idle Setting After


Dialed and idling good!
 
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No snow here so wanted to check mine now rather than when I should be riding :)

From the factory the idle was .942 and base was .714
Adjusted to .700 and .940 on the nose. Very easy to do.

Extra bit of effort to remove airbox makes access a breeze.

Thanks again Eric!
 
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