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TPS check / adjust step by step.

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I did mine a couple weeks ago without taking off the fuel tank. I just loosened the airbox and was able to move it back and up a bit, get in from above with an 8 mm box end wrench to loosen the jam nut, and go from the bottom with an allen wrench to move the idle screw. I back probed the ecu wires with safety pins. On the smaller ecu plug, # 24 (red/ white) is the output voltage, and # 7 (aqua) is where you confirm you have 5.00 V going into the TPS. So the procedure is exactly the same as the old pro, right down to the wire colors.

Mine was 0.016 too rich.

Eric, I remember that you were the first guy that came up with this neat & tidy procedure to use on the pro a couple years ago here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3470019&postcount=29. At the time, you said that you preferred back probing off the ecu plug instead of the TPS connector because it more accurately showed what the ecu was seeing. Why do you now prefer going off another connector?
 
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Great write up, need to do this to my short track.
I have 2 800 axys sleds, one 15' rush pro x and a 16' pro s switch. The 16' switch idles perfectly and starts on the 1-2 pull every time, the 15' rush idles 200 rpm lower than the switch, sometimes dies going in to reverse and when warm needs a blip of throttle to stay idling on start up. Atleast the hard starter is the one with electric start and runs really well so haven't been to concerned but would be nice for it to idle like the 16'.
 
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3470019&postcount=29[/URL]. At the time, you said that you preferred back probing off the ecu plug instead of the TPS connector because it more accurately showed what the ecu was seeing. Why do you now prefer going off another connector?

Good question, In this situation with the way the wiring harness, ecm, and connectors are laid out its more of a convenience issue then anything else. As long as you are seeing the 5.00-5.01 supply voltage, you have an accurate signal and can proceed with adjusting. Eric
 
Good question, In this situation with the way the wiring harness, ecm, and connectors are laid out its more of a convenience issue then anything else. As long as you are seeing the 5.00-5.01 supply voltage, you have an accurate signal and can proceed with adjusting. Eric

When I took my sled in they said that there are 2 different sets of specs for the 16 axys. Some use the 15 spec and some the 16. They pull up # and it tells them which spec to use. Must depend on engine build date. Can't remember what the spec diff was, but they were different. From the sounds of things on here though even if it is within their specs it can be off enough to not work. Sounds like Polaris needs to tighten them up. Or at least listen to srx so they can get it right.
 
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so far my 16' has been spot on...but my 15' i'm almost positive i need to do this and i'm not sure if i trust the dealer to do it right. My 15 failed to go in reverse couple times and noticed some weird idling toward end of last season. Will see how it does this weekend. So i'm probably try to do this myself. I'm not huge on electrical stuff but i have decent grasp of a multimeter so if i take my time hopefully i'll figure it out. :)

thanks for this writeup, very informational.
 
Thanks for this post! Wish I would have seen it before having dealer adjust tps last weekend, as I still have the same low idle results after dealer adjustment, so it looks like I'll be heading back again next weekend! Will have them follow this thread though since I don't have all the needed tools available, hope this resolves my tps/low idle issue finally! :face-icon-small-dis
 
Thanks for this post! Wish I would have seen it before having dealer adjust tps last weekend, as I still have the same low idle results after dealer adjustment, so it looks like I'll be heading back again next weekend! Will have them follow this thread though since I don't have all the needed tools available, hope this resolves my tps/low idle issue finally! :face-icon-small-dis

Only problem with the dealer is that from what I have seen and read on hear is that they will only use the digital wrench and not a multi meter. I think the Dw is the problem in the tps adjustment. If it shows in within spec they will not even adjust it.
 
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so far my 16' has been spot on...but my 15' i'm almost positive i need to do this and i'm not sure if i trust the dealer to do it right. My 15 failed to go in reverse couple times and noticed some weird idling toward end of last season. Will see how it does this weekend. So i'm probably try to do this myself. I'm not huge on electrical stuff but i have decent grasp of a multimeter so if i take my time hopefully i'll figure it out. :)

thanks for this writeup, very informational.

It's easier than it sounds. Take your time. Be patient.
 
TPS

Awsone job! Just replaced the throttle cable on my wife's. While I was in there I made the adjustments. Way off! Idles and goes into reverse now with no problems.
 
did the deed last night. Got everything nuts on .700 and .940. perfect. Hoping this clears everything right up!
 
Dealer checked base setting on my unit again at .71 and then re-set tps to .938 from .923, my sled finally idles and runs great! Thanks for this post!
 
My dealer checked mine today, its way out he said,hopefully this will help clear up some inconsistencies
 
Did another one tonight. Same settings as mine .714 from the factory.....at least they're consistently wrong....so Poo has that goin for them.

Set to .700 base and .940 idle, another happy(er) AXYS owner :)
 
Did another one tonight. Same settings as mine .714 from the factory.....at least they're consistently wrong....so Poo has that goin for them.

Set to .700 base and .940 idle, another happy(er) AXYS owner :)

Does a tps being out of spec affect over all performance, specifically top end?
 
Does a tps being out of spec affect over all performance, specifically top end?


Yes.

I know it sucks that we plop down 13+ g's for these things and they're not always perfect out of the box but honestly, for me, I'd have to be nuts to NOT go through every new toy I purchase and get it set-up right. It does make a fifference and is worth the time.

These things are mass produced, there's NO WAY you're ever going to get a perfectly set up sled no matter where you buy it.

The amount of things I found wrong on every sled I've touched is awful.
 
If providing power to the ECM, and just wanting to check that base voltage (with throttle cable unhooked), can I assume if my base voltage is .940 that I'm o.k.? Or do I need to first back the screw out of the throttle plates and do the whole process as described?


Figured I would start a new post so all the info is in one place. This is the info for the guys that choose to do this on their own rather then taking it to the dealer and hoping they do it right.

Its likely gonna take ya an hour or two the first time you do it, there is a lot of stuff that needs to come off.

Remove side panels, hood, and dash, when removing the dash remove the 10mm screws from the ECU and leave the ECU in place and wiring hooked up. Then remove all the clips for the gas tank shroud, then lift up a couple inches and there is a single connector for the mode/select , hand warmers switch, its about 6" back from the switches. Then slide the shroud back from the steering post, pull the starter rope out a foot or 2 and then just lay that off to the side of the sled. Next remove the seat buy taking off the 4 10mm nuts on the seat mount, lifting it up off the studs and then slide straight back. Next is the fuel tank, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the back of the tank, unhook the wiring coming off the fuel pump, its a single connector about 6" in front of the tank. Remove 1 10mm screw on the left front of the tank, its up under the over structure right in front of the white tank vent (no hose on it is normal). Then carefully slide back the safety clips on the fuel lines, no tools require, just use your finger, release each side of the clip then slide back about a 1/8", then carefully pull the fuel lines straight up. A very small amount of fuel will leak out. Now lift the rear of the tank off the studs and slide tank back and remove from sled. Now you need to loosen the clamps on the air box going to the throttle bodies. It helps if you remove the belt and secondary clutch, but can be done with out removing the clutch. After loosening the hose clamps (1/4" socket) you can pull the air box back about 3/4" to get it free from the throttle bodies. Now you will be able to see the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen, 8mm jam nut) by slightly lifting up the air box and look between the bottom of the air box and the jack shaft. Its between the throttle bodies, closer to the PTO side. Now you need to unhook the throttle cable from the flipper, just go WOT and hold the cable with your other hand and you can push the cable out of the flipper. Next you need to go back to the adjusting screw, loosen the jam nut and then back it off 2-3 turns and make sure the screw is no longer touching the cam on the throttle shaft.
Now your ready to check your TPS settings :)
Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount. Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire. Now hook up a GOOD quality volt meter to the TPS connector, its in the bag right above the PTO spark plug. Its 3 wires, triangle connector, Black, Blue, Yellow. Leave the connector plugged in and carefully back probe the terminal between the wire and weather pack seal. If you dont have a back probe, use a very thin gauge paper clip unfolded. Put your black volt meter lead to ground, I use the chassis bolt with ground wires attached to it near the ECU connector you powered up. Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts. If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector. You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting. Set this reading to exactly .700 , this is done by loosening the 2 screws on the TPS sensor which is on the MAG side throttle body. This is a very touchy adjustment and your reading will likely change slightly when you tighten the screws back up, you need to compensate for this change when adjusting, it needs to be .700 when tight. Double check the adjusting screw is NOT touching then cam on the throttle shaft, use a mirror if needed. Now that your BASE setting is correct you need to set the IDLE setting. This is done by turning the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen) back in, slowly turn that in until your voltage reading is .940 then tighten the 8mm jam nut while holding the 2.5mm screw. Your reading is going to increase and once again you need to compensate for this and make sure your at .940 when the jam nut is tight. Thats it, your DONE! Now you just need to put everything back together. Make sure the air box slides back onto the throttle bodies correclty, use a mirror if there is any doubt.
Hope that helps. Eric
 
If providing power to the ECM, and just wanting to check that base voltage (with throttle cable unhooked), can I assume if my base voltage is .940 that I'm o.k.? Or do I need to first back the screw out of the throttle plates and do the whole process as described?

You cant check the base voltage unless you back the idle screw all the way out. All you will be checking like that will be the idle voltage. The idle voltage may be good but if your base is off it may mess things up.

My SKS is starting to give me idling/starting issues so Im gonna have to do mine this week.
 
Adjusted mine today, base voltage was at .733 and idle at .918. Surprised it ran as good as it did! Boy is that adjustment screw a PIA to get at.
 
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