Beautiful looking sled Flit-e...but your not done yet...you need to hit Rob up for a set of his better boards...otherwise she looks ready to rock...
2009 Dragon 8 163" has arrived
- Thread starter Ron
- Start date
S
sledhead004
Member
Ron, Wyoming metal art did my powder coating
looks good man, I'm thinking doing the powder coating now.
R
Ron
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I've had it for a while, but probably got it at an automotive parts store or Schucks.
heres my 155
J
Jkinzer
Well-known member
Ron, Wyoming metal art did my powder coating
i've been contemplating on powdercoating my rails black for the last month or so and you pretty just made my mind up for me. that looks trick! great looking sled
just pellthem off. they will peel pretty easy. just pulled them off my new sled, then polished tunel.
R
Ron
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Update
Here is a picture of an older thermostat (left) and the one off my 09 (right). Note the larger bypass hole on the 09-seal is on the far right.
I am going to try this modified thermo, since it was an old one I still have the stocker to put back in if I don't like it. Cold running boondocking it may run too cold without the thermostat. Left just the top arch to add a little turbulence to the water flow.
Found a larger bottle (6 oz at Target) to catch oil draining from the exhaust valves. Replaced the stock drain line with a longer one, added velcro to the bottle and to the bumper strut & tied it off with a velcro wrap. The top of the bottle is open so that there is no back pressure on the drain line. Have not done this before so will just watch and see how it works. I will shorten the drain a little after I see how it looks after a ride or two.
Here is a picture of an older thermostat (left) and the one off my 09 (right). Note the larger bypass hole on the 09-seal is on the far right.
I am going to try this modified thermo, since it was an old one I still have the stocker to put back in if I don't like it. Cold running boondocking it may run too cold without the thermostat. Left just the top arch to add a little turbulence to the water flow.
Found a larger bottle (6 oz at Target) to catch oil draining from the exhaust valves. Replaced the stock drain line with a longer one, added velcro to the bottle and to the bumper strut & tied it off with a velcro wrap. The top of the bottle is open so that there is no back pressure on the drain line. Have not done this before so will just watch and see how it works. I will shorten the drain a little after I see how it looks after a ride or two.
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Here is a picture of an older thermostat (left) and the one off my 09 (right). Note the larger bypass hole on the 09-seal is on the far right.
I am going to try this modified thermo, since it was an old one I still have the stocker to put back in if I don't like it. Cold running boondocking it may run too cold without the thermostat. Left just the top arch to add a little turbulence to the water flow.
Found a larger bottle (6 oz at Target) to catch oil draining from the exhaust valves. Replaced the stock drain line with a longer one, added velcro to the bottle and to the bumper strut & tied it off with a velcro wrap. The top of the bottle is open so that there is no back pressure on the drain line. Have not done this before so will just watch and see how it works. I will shorten the drain a little after I see how it looks after a ride or two.
Ron. First, cudos to you for your passion to the sport and your build and thank you for sharing! There is no doubt that you know your Dragon's and IQ chassis'. As far as temps go, what should the 800 run for engine temps? My 08 D8 is mostly stock...compared to yours anyway. I think mine was always running a little on the cold side.
Thanks
R
Ron
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I didn't pay any attention to the water temp gauge last year but with a 120 degree thermostat it might run 120 to 125 except in poor cooling conditions. On the dyno (DTR) they got another 2-3 HP running it cooler. I'm hoping for around 95 but it may get colder in certain conditions so my next step would be to drill more bypass holes in the stock one.
Thanks Ron. Just saw the other thread on this topic and will be keeping an eye on it to see where this goes.
R
Ron
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Done
My sled is finished now & I'll post some final pictures this weekend. As I mentioned previously I went with the cyclinder porting by Carl's. The fuel rail and the air box can be challenging to reinstall so I'll add some info on what worked for me.
While I had the airbox off I decided to drill some holes in the shelf. Carl's and SLP have done some of this, not certain if there are any big performance gains, the 09's have a different fuel map. My thought was that I would drill the holes and can easily put black duct tape over them if the results aren't there. SLP reportedly found that removing the air horns reduced performance so maybe this will let the engine breathe better. I'm sure that more info will be available once there is some testing in the snow. SLP recommends drilling four 7/8" holes on the Performance Addn (ported single) & twin piped 8's. I used a 3/4" hole saw and a ream to slightly enlarge the holes.
My sled is finished now & I'll post some final pictures this weekend. As I mentioned previously I went with the cyclinder porting by Carl's. The fuel rail and the air box can be challenging to reinstall so I'll add some info on what worked for me.
While I had the airbox off I decided to drill some holes in the shelf. Carl's and SLP have done some of this, not certain if there are any big performance gains, the 09's have a different fuel map. My thought was that I would drill the holes and can easily put black duct tape over them if the results aren't there. SLP reportedly found that removing the air horns reduced performance so maybe this will let the engine breathe better. I'm sure that more info will be available once there is some testing in the snow. SLP recommends drilling four 7/8" holes on the Performance Addn (ported single) & twin piped 8's. I used a 3/4" hole saw and a ream to slightly enlarge the holes.
S
Sled169
Member
Ron,
Is there any reason why you could not run that drain line out the bottom say down by the can or someplace that would get it out side of the chassis so you would not have to deal with the bottle?
This is my first Poo Poo and it is still in the crate hoping to get started on it after the Spokane show. Have lots of plans for aftermarket and dress ups. Of course the first thing it will get is professionally installed Better Boards from my good buddy Rob. Thinking about some power coating just not sure about a color skeem yet.
Thanks for all your info you have put up here.
Jay
Is there any reason why you could not run that drain line out the bottom say down by the can or someplace that would get it out side of the chassis so you would not have to deal with the bottle?
This is my first Poo Poo and it is still in the crate hoping to get started on it after the Spokane show. Have lots of plans for aftermarket and dress ups. Of course the first thing it will get is professionally installed Better Boards from my good buddy Rob. Thinking about some power coating just not sure about a color skeem yet.
Thanks for all your info you have put up here.
Jay
R
Ron
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Jay,
I thought about just what you said but then you have the oil blowing back under the belly pan and on the track at times. (Maybe when running down the trail) But that's happening now so at least it would get the mess on the outside. Any obstruction in the line will keep the exhaust valves from opening.
First I'll collect it to see how much oil we are dealing with. It sure made a mess in my belly pan last year. I have no idea how much oil will collect, maybe it's a small amount and then your idea would be great.
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R
Ron
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SLP Pipe
Noticed that I didn't post pipe pic's. The fit and finish of the SLP Pipes are factory...couldn't be a better fit. The set includes a Y pipe, not real easy to install but this year went much faster than last year. I had to shorten an Alan wrench for the upper center bolts. The PTO side bolts are the toughest but using a magnet and access from the clutch side makes the job easier. A 1/4" ratchet with a swivel get the rest of the bolts. Some of the springs were a challenge, I used all 3 of my spring tools. One is stainless I got from SLP years ago, another is a screwdriver with mod tip using a diamond blade on my grinder. My newest acqusition came from Harbor Freight Tools, $3.95 on the right. I added some 1/4" fuel line to the handle.
The Pipe nothing of note here except the fit is great as it was last year.
The can has lots of clearance now. I removed the side panel heat shield and added some aluminum tape....2" clearance on one end and 2.5" on the other. Impossible to push the side panel against the can without breaking it. Vents should keep things cool.
Noticed that I didn't post pipe pic's. The fit and finish of the SLP Pipes are factory...couldn't be a better fit. The set includes a Y pipe, not real easy to install but this year went much faster than last year. I had to shorten an Alan wrench for the upper center bolts. The PTO side bolts are the toughest but using a magnet and access from the clutch side makes the job easier. A 1/4" ratchet with a swivel get the rest of the bolts. Some of the springs were a challenge, I used all 3 of my spring tools. One is stainless I got from SLP years ago, another is a screwdriver with mod tip using a diamond blade on my grinder. My newest acqusition came from Harbor Freight Tools, $3.95 on the right. I added some 1/4" fuel line to the handle.
The Pipe nothing of note here except the fit is great as it was last year.
The can has lots of clearance now. I removed the side panel heat shield and added some aluminum tape....2" clearance on one end and 2.5" on the other. Impossible to push the side panel against the can without breaking it. Vents should keep things cool.
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Hahah Thats the worst when you get a new sled and have to wait to ride it.
I'm in the same boat...Except my sled is an old new to me sled.
I'm in the same boat...Except my sled is an old new to me sled.
