turbo xp is runing badass!!!
- Thread starter badass1000
- Start date
J
jmoore
Member
Reeds
Big John,
You are correct, the Boysen reeds are working very well, that sled has over 600 miles on it with those reeds @10psi.
Big John,
You are correct, the Boysen reeds are working very well, that sled has over 600 miles on it with those reeds @10psi.
B
badass1000
Well-known member
I pulled the exhaust side boot/reeds and they look perfect. I havn't got the clutch side yet because I have to remove the secondary to get the one bolt. Looking down the boot the reeds look perfect from what I can see.
clutch side piston looks perfect threw power valve. compresion feels good pulling rope. going to throw a gauge on it and check some more things today.
clutch side piston looks perfect threw power valve. compresion feels good pulling rope. going to throw a gauge on it and check some more things today.
B
badass1000
Well-known member
thank you brycter. I acutally bought a extra set of the turbo reeds just incase. the ones I have in it look perfect though.
have you guys had good luck with the stock reed boots with your girdle on them?
thinking of giving what I have the go and later on getting the boyesen aluminium boots a try. I would have got them in the first place, but was runing low on funds and wanted to make sure I had enough to complete the project.
just looked on boyesen's website and the rage cage just has the piece off the front of it that goes up into the stock reed boots. Does the rage cage with xp turbo reeds only have two reeds like pictured on their site or does it have 4 reeds like stock? I thought they made a aluminium boot to replace the stock rubber/plastic reed boot. guess I will have to call them.
well it turns out my xp has a crack pipe... I mean a cracked pipe.
I didn't notice it the first time I looked at it, but looked at it again just now and noticed that one of the seems/welds is cracked about 12" long. I guess I will call cpi to let them know that their pipe cracked and take it to a local welder to have it fixed along with my oil tank. going to change the oil tank a little so that it is stronger and hopefully does not break again. I had a adapter and had a 7/8" or so pipe off the top of the tank and threaded it into the adapter on the bottom of the turbo. well the threaded part is obviously thiner and it cracked their just as it comes out of the adapter. going to put a solid piece of pipe on this time and have it welded to the adapter. maybee even slide a piece of aluminium in the adapter. then slide the biger pipe over it and weld it all together so it is extra strong. Don't want it to break again. Was thinking of mounting a tank on the sled somewhere below the turbo and connect the turbo and tank with a ruber hose so their is not the vibration and chance of it braking the weld from the tank vibrating, oil sloshing around and bumps all on a rigid piece that bolts to the bottom of the turbo. Can't really see a good place I would like to mount the tank to though under the turbo.
unfortunatly I still need a throttle cable so I will not be riding this weekend. unless by some miracle the dealer has one in stock. going to call tomarrow. I was hopeing to find something other then the $62 stock one, but no one makes one for the xp. spi has one listed in wps. part number 70-1087 with a retail of $16, but it is on backorder untill march. it is also listed as for 09-10 xp so I am not sure if it would work on my 08.
have you guys had good luck with the stock reed boots with your girdle on them?
thinking of giving what I have the go and later on getting the boyesen aluminium boots a try. I would have got them in the first place, but was runing low on funds and wanted to make sure I had enough to complete the project.
just looked on boyesen's website and the rage cage just has the piece off the front of it that goes up into the stock reed boots. Does the rage cage with xp turbo reeds only have two reeds like pictured on their site or does it have 4 reeds like stock? I thought they made a aluminium boot to replace the stock rubber/plastic reed boot. guess I will have to call them.
well it turns out my xp has a crack pipe... I mean a cracked pipe.
I didn't notice it the first time I looked at it, but looked at it again just now and noticed that one of the seems/welds is cracked about 12" long. I guess I will call cpi to let them know that their pipe cracked and take it to a local welder to have it fixed along with my oil tank. going to change the oil tank a little so that it is stronger and hopefully does not break again. I had a adapter and had a 7/8" or so pipe off the top of the tank and threaded it into the adapter on the bottom of the turbo. well the threaded part is obviously thiner and it cracked their just as it comes out of the adapter. going to put a solid piece of pipe on this time and have it welded to the adapter. maybee even slide a piece of aluminium in the adapter. then slide the biger pipe over it and weld it all together so it is extra strong. Don't want it to break again. Was thinking of mounting a tank on the sled somewhere below the turbo and connect the turbo and tank with a ruber hose so their is not the vibration and chance of it braking the weld from the tank vibrating, oil sloshing around and bumps all on a rigid piece that bolts to the bottom of the turbo. Can't really see a good place I would like to mount the tank to though under the turbo.
unfortunatly I still need a throttle cable so I will not be riding this weekend. unless by some miracle the dealer has one in stock. going to call tomarrow. I was hopeing to find something other then the $62 stock one, but no one makes one for the xp. spi has one listed in wps. part number 70-1087 with a retail of $16, but it is on backorder untill march. it is also listed as for 09-10 xp so I am not sure if it would work on my 08.
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Yes the girdle plates have been working very well. I have not had any blow out that had them on. The Boyseen rage cage is a V style cage that fitts into the stock boot. The rage cage does help quite a bit for blow out on the boot because they fit so tight in there. With our girdle plates and rage cage i bet you would never see a blow out.
Boyseen also makes the rage cage with a turbo spec reed and that is what jim moore has been running for 700 miles now. the rage cage does give you alot more top end and throttle response also.
Boyseen tryied making a full on billit intake but there wasn't enough wiggle to get the carbs on so they came up with what you see.
Dang pipes! When they go they go big. Try and put a metal strap over the seam that work great.
Boyseen also makes the rage cage with a turbo spec reed and that is what jim moore has been running for 700 miles now. the rage cage does give you alot more top end and throttle response also.
Boyseen tryied making a full on billit intake but there wasn't enough wiggle to get the carbs on so they came up with what you see.
Dang pipes! When they go they go big. Try and put a metal strap over the seam that work great.
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badass1000
Well-known member
thank you for the info.
I got a set of the boyesen turbo reeds in the stock cages now and a brand new spare set. I will have to try the rage cage's with turbo spec reeds later.
Probably call you soon to order a set of the girdles for the stock reed boots.
I was thinking of getting a big hose clamp and strip of header wrap like they use on slp pipes.
I got a set of the boyesen turbo reeds in the stock cages now and a brand new spare set. I will have to try the rage cage's with turbo spec reeds later.
Probably call you soon to order a set of the girdles for the stock reed boots.
I was thinking of getting a big hose clamp and strip of header wrap like they use on slp pipes.
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badass1000
Well-known member
Got the sled all fixed up and rode all day today. tried turning the air/fuel screws in another 1/4 turn (3/4 turn out now) and didn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. may try next size smaller pilot and turn screws out to 1 1/2 turns. if I let the sled idle down hill for a long time it loads up a little, but clears out in a couple seconds. if I blip the throttle a few times down hill it does not do it. sled works good and runs fine if I ride it and work the throttle correctly. Just trying to get it to work perfect all the time.
It is a wheelie monster though. It is fun. I just think it would climb better if it did not come up so much. Have to work the throttle some times to keep it down. Going to put my limiter strap out to the last hole. it is still the way it came from the factory at the second to last hole.
Here are some pics I took today just to have some to post for every one to see.
It is a wheelie monster though. It is fun. I just think it would climb better if it did not come up so much. Have to work the throttle some times to keep it down. Going to put my limiter strap out to the last hole. it is still the way it came from the factory at the second to last hole.
Here are some pics I took today just to have some to post for every one to see.
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badass1000
Well-known member
some more pics.
I really like the waist gate, and the gauges the way you mounted them. Smart.
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badass1000
Well-known member
thank you
I was really happy with the way the gauges turned out. I wanted something to inclose them so the wires, and hoses were not all open and exposed. Snow buildup and looks. I had to modify the pod a little to get it to fit the curved top, but it turned out great.
I need to get some other pics with it all cleaned up. these pics are fine, but do not show the details really well. Some pics in the driveway will hopefully be a little clearer and show detail better.
I was really happy with the way the gauges turned out. I wanted something to inclose them so the wires, and hoses were not all open and exposed. Snow buildup and looks. I had to modify the pod a little to get it to fit the curved top, but it turned out great.
I need to get some other pics with it all cleaned up. these pics are fine, but do not show the details really well. Some pics in the driveway will hopefully be a little clearer and show detail better.
C
canucklehead
Well-known member
Looks good. I like where you put the fuel pressure reg, mine is going to get moved up there somewhere sometime. I am no expert but is your airbox deep enough? Is there a rule of thumb about it being 2x as deep as the carb openings?
Beautiful job, very clean ,, ya box is a little tight but at normal boost levels its not an issue..Its not so tight as to cause a reversion issue either..
have fun,,,,
Gus
have fun,,,,
Gus
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badass1000
Well-known member
pics must be a little decieveing. from the outside edge of carb bellmouth to the back of the air box is over twice the size of the carb opening. I measured it, but can't remember what it was. I literaly can not make the box any biger or it will not go in with the fuel pump in the location it is in. Same location every one else uses and I made sure the fuel pump was mounted right up against the heat exchanger in the tunnel so it can not be moved back any farther either. I made the bottom of the air box flat for about a inch before angling up also instead of how every one else angles up from the front edge of the box. giving it more depth at the bottom of the carb opening. I could have made the box deeper above the fuel pump, but chose to angle the box up and make it a little taller then how every one else makes it flat across the top. I tried to make the box as big as posible.
Only other thing I could do is bring the angle back above the fuel pump some more and get a little more depth to the air box above the fuel pump.
Only other thing I could do is bring the angle back above the fuel pump some more and get a little more depth to the air box above the fuel pump.
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badass1000
Well-known member
I just measured. it is flat for 1 1/4" across the bottom. it is 4 1/4" from end of carb bellmouth to the back of the box. After looking at the fuel pump again. I could have mounted the fuel pump bracket behind the ruber piece by the heat exchanger and moved the fuel pump back about 3/8".
Their is always next time. I made the charge tube from 2" pipe because I already had alot of it and alot of 2" couplers. Didn't want to wait on 2 1/2" and couplers. I will make it out of 2 1/2" next time. Just want to try it. Don't know if their will be any difference. Turbo outlet is only 2" and the charge tube is not very long and their is no sharp bends. Nothing more then a 45 degree bend wich does not restrict air flow very much. every one uses 2" except r&d uses 2 1/2".
Also would like to re do the exhaust a little. Get a tighter radius bend and bring the pipe back to the footwell a little more so it does not have as sharp of a bend. I know it still flows plenty enough as it is. both the pipe and turbo oulet are under 2" and that is 3" diameter pipe. I would really like to get a muffler in their. it is pretty loud right now. Maybee some thing like cpi uses. can't really put much of a strait through muffler in their because of the bend to get it out the exhaust opening. A offset muffler like cpi uses would work.
Their is always next time. I made the charge tube from 2" pipe because I already had alot of it and alot of 2" couplers. Didn't want to wait on 2 1/2" and couplers. I will make it out of 2 1/2" next time. Just want to try it. Don't know if their will be any difference. Turbo outlet is only 2" and the charge tube is not very long and their is no sharp bends. Nothing more then a 45 degree bend wich does not restrict air flow very much. every one uses 2" except r&d uses 2 1/2".
Also would like to re do the exhaust a little. Get a tighter radius bend and bring the pipe back to the footwell a little more so it does not have as sharp of a bend. I know it still flows plenty enough as it is. both the pipe and turbo oulet are under 2" and that is 3" diameter pipe. I would really like to get a muffler in their. it is pretty loud right now. Maybee some thing like cpi uses. can't really put much of a strait through muffler in their because of the bend to get it out the exhaust opening. A offset muffler like cpi uses would work.
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badass1000
Well-known member
thank you.
it is a tial Q bov. updated version of the 50mm bov.
lightest spring for the Q is 6psi. lightest spring for standard 50mm is 7psi.
I still had to cut a few windings off the spring to get it to open and work good. Still has plenty of presure on it to hold it shut and not open at a idle so that it does not leak any boost.
it is a little bit of a pain to cut the spring down and test it to get it working the way you want. A adjustable bov would be nicer to set up. Just turn the set screw instead of pulling apart and cutting spring. I cut one winding off and it still did not open good enough. pulled it apart and cut a little more then one more winding off and now it is working great.
Now that I have done one I could just cut the next one just like it. Maybee even look around to see if I can find a correct spring to fit in the tial Q bov.
it is a tial Q bov. updated version of the 50mm bov.
lightest spring for the Q is 6psi. lightest spring for standard 50mm is 7psi.
I still had to cut a few windings off the spring to get it to open and work good. Still has plenty of presure on it to hold it shut and not open at a idle so that it does not leak any boost.
it is a little bit of a pain to cut the spring down and test it to get it working the way you want. A adjustable bov would be nicer to set up. Just turn the set screw instead of pulling apart and cutting spring. I cut one winding off and it still did not open good enough. pulled it apart and cut a little more then one more winding off and now it is working great.
Now that I have done one I could just cut the next one just like it. Maybee even look around to see if I can find a correct spring to fit in the tial Q bov.
C
canucklehead
Well-known member
Are you applying boost pressure to the white T fitting on the carbs?
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badass1000
Well-known member
no. where the white T fitting is stock that goes to the two carbs and then to the dpm I believe. I just put a strait clear piece of hose connecting the two carbs.
I have two 1/8" barbs on the air box per carb. one going to the top of the carbs and one goes to a tee and splits to the other tube that goes to the dpm and I drilled and taped the carb where it says heater. Then one 3/16" barb to the wastegate.
The back of both carbs is drilled and taped with a 1/8" fitting and Y'ed together and ran to the BOV, fuel presure regulator, and the boost gauge. Thinking of putting both 1/8" lines from back of carbs to a 3/16x1/8x1/8 T and runing a 3/16" line to the bov to get a better signal to it. Bov is working good. Just thinking of doing it just for the heck of it I guess.
I have two 1/8" barbs on the air box per carb. one going to the top of the carbs and one goes to a tee and splits to the other tube that goes to the dpm and I drilled and taped the carb where it says heater. Then one 3/16" barb to the wastegate.
The back of both carbs is drilled and taped with a 1/8" fitting and Y'ed together and ran to the BOV, fuel presure regulator, and the boost gauge. Thinking of putting both 1/8" lines from back of carbs to a 3/16x1/8x1/8 T and runing a 3/16" line to the bov to get a better signal to it. Bov is working good. Just thinking of doing it just for the heck of it I guess.
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R
Revanator
Active member
Ok, thanks. Never ran the Tial BOV because it would never open from the spring tension. I will cut down that spring and hook it up.
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