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850E-TEC Turbo R most common issues & troubleshoot

Yup 24’s seem to be becoming lemons. Now we have incentive to snowcheck 25.
I really wanted save the money and buy a lightly used 24 but that’s no longer an option for me.
 
Second year with Turbo R and it has been a solid engine. Close to zero problems on my sled or my friends rides. But theres always some things that small % of riders might get involved with. Here is a list of problems that I have seen or heard for troubleshooting purposes:

1. Rave servo motor (actuator) failing
- Sudden rpm drops
- RPM fading or inconsistent
- Wont give fault codes
- Brp has updated part number several times, so we know that there has been more issuses in general
- Fix by replacing the servo motor

2. Wastegate servo motor (actuator) failing
- No boost, goes to limp mode
- Will give out fault code P0245 and maybe some others too
- Its the same servo motor as is used with rave, so yeah
- Fix by replacing the servo motor

3. Bad fuel pump & blocked filters
- RPM fading on longer pulls
- Wont give fault codes
- Replace the pump or filters

4. Reeds
- Engine idling is weird and inconsistent
- Weaker midrange power and and slower throttle response, sled might need more pulls to start
- Wont give fault codes
- Fix by replacing the reeds

5. Engine backfiring
- ECU cant read out maps for the injectors
- Backfiring, feeling of engine "icing" on midrange
- Wont give fault codes
- Fix by rewriting (flashing) maps for the injectors with buds

6. Engine wont pull properly on warm spring conditions
- Flyback voltage compensation has not been enabled from ECU
- RPM fades on warm conditions, general lack of power
- Fix by enabling Flyback Voltage Compensation with buds

There migth be more that I cant remeber atm. I know there has been lots of faulty ECU´s and injectors between 2020-2022 but havent heard that many issues with 2023+.

The dealer says there is not a reference to “fly back voltage” in buds.

Who knows, maybe they don’t know where to look, most likely.

Would you happen to know where to look in buds?


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Yup 24’s seem to be becoming lemons. Now we have incentive to snowcheck 25.
I really wanted save the money and buy a lightly used 24 but that’s no longer an option for me.

I ride with 4 other 24’s and mine is the only one that had issues this season. It will have warranty I wouldn’t worry about to much if the price difference makes up for it.


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I ride with 4 other 24’s and mine is the only one that had issues this season. It will have warranty I wouldn’t worry about to much if the price difference makes up for it.


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Yep I already changed my mind on that. Friday I seized my 24 turbo R at just under 1000 miles and yesterday I bought a 0 mile 24 freeride turbo for 16k. Couldn’t pass up that price. I think I’ll keep both next winter one of them SHOULD BE running at all times.
 
The dealer says there is not a reference to “fly back voltage” in buds.

Who knows, maybe they don’t know where to look, most likely.

Would you happen to know where to look in buds?


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Settings->ECM Variant Coding->Byte 3 Bit 7 Flyback Voltage Compensation = Enabled

Dealer might need extended rights from brp service to be able to change this, depends what buds version they have.
 
Yep I already changed my mind on that. Friday I seized my 24 turbo R at just under 1000 miles and yesterday I bought a 0 mile 24 freeride turbo for 16k. Couldn’t pass up that price. I think I’ll keep both next winter one of them SHOULD BE running at all times.

Wow awesome deal. Yeah with both sleds you should be in the clear and able to ride without being down


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Settings->ECM Variant Coding->Byte 3 Bit 7 Flyback Voltage Compensation = Enabled

Dealer might need extended rights from brp service to be able to change this, depends what buds version they have.

Thanks for the info


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What my group has see on 5 23 turbo r, and 2 24's is drives skipping even with a crazy tight track. Reeds and rollers going at about 1200 miles. We all got the new 25 skidoo drivers on warranty over the last 2 weeks, and there way way better. They look double the size.
 
What my group has see on 5 23 turbo r, and 2 24's is drives skipping even with a crazy tight track. Reeds and rollers going at about 1200 miles. We all got the new 25 skidoo drivers on warranty over the last 2 weeks, and there way way better. They look double the size.
hmmm
 
3 sets of reeds and 4 sets of rollers between the group. Oh ya and about the 500 mile mark the belts are blowing in a million chunks lol. 3 of them coming from 22 doo turbos, and could get over 1000 miles or the belt and they would just change it
 
3 sets of reeds and 4 sets of rollers between the group. Oh ya and about the 500 mile mark the belts are blowing in a million chunks lol. 3 of them coming from 22 doo turbos, and could get over 1000 miles or the belt and they would just change it

On g4 turbos we could get over 1500 miles (never found the breaking point). 23 we had 2 g5 turbos that blew belts at every 300 miles right on queue. This year on the g5 turbos we have ibackshift clutching and we are getting 600-800 miles. These sleds absolutely explode belts with very little warning.
 
3 sets of reeds and 4 sets of rollers between the group. Oh ya and about the 500 mile mark the belts are blowing in a million chunks lol. 3 of them coming from 22 doo turbos, and could get over 1000 miles or the belt and they would just change it

We have had new 574 belt on European market already for 2 seasons, its stronger belt than old 571. I think you guys should have it too for the next season.

The thing is that Turbo R has so much more power than n.a. 850 or original turbo. I would recommend to change stock secondary spring (Black 160-300) to stiffer to improve backshift (green 180-300).

If you have 146 or 3700 turbo R, gear it down with smaller upper sprocket (22->21)
 
What my group has see on 5 23 turbo r, and 2 24's is drives skipping even with a crazy tight track. We all got the new 25 skidoo drivers on warranty over the last 2 weeks, and there way way better. They look double the size.
So the warranty was based on just the skipping complaint? Much pushback from brp?
 
Yup, complained to the dealership about skipping a few different times. They ordered up the 25 drivers and nothing but happy with them. One friend even got his 24 freeride track covered under warranty, because it broke all the track rodes from having to be over tight.
 
We have had new 574 belt on European market already for 2 seasons, its stronger belt than old 571. I think you guys should have it too for the next season.

The thing is that Turbo R has so much more power than n.a. 850 or original turbo. I would recommend to change stock secondary spring (Black 160-300) to stiffer to improve backshift (green 180-300).

If you have 146 or 3700 turbo R, gear it down with smaller upper sprocket (22->21
If u need to gear down your clutch setup or clutch alignment is ****. I have 24/51 and belt are still good after around 1500km with 0-1300m riding. And some extra ventilation dont hurt either. Been like this since revchassie with brp. 21/51 on 3700/146 turbo r and u will be much on overdrive with a little wot..much overdrive kill belts.
 
If u need to gear down your clutch setup or clutch alignment is ****. I have 24/51 and belt are still good after around 1500km with 0-1300m riding. And some extra ventilation dont hurt either. Been like this since revchassie with brp. 21/51 on 3700/146 turbo r and u will be much on overdrive with a little wot..much overdrive kill belts.

Gearing down is most simple solution for most riders, it also improves throttle response for technical deep snow riding. On 146 turbo 21-51 is great for low track speed technical riding. Stock 22-51 is great for overall use for not that deep snow and for higher speeds. It all depends on where and how you like to ride.
 
Started up my 24 turbo to move it to replace shocks today. Idled like **** then started running like a ptek doo. Reved it up and got 2 engine codes p21BE and p21BD. Anyone know those codes? 40% break in on its second motor and it hasn’t ran well since replaced.
 
Started up my 24 turbo to move it to replace shocks today. Idled like **** then started running like a ptek doo. Reved it up and got 2 engine codes p21BE and p21BD. Anyone know those codes? 40% break in on its second motor and it hasn’t ran well since replaced.

This does happen sometimes after summer with the first start up. Did you put in fuel stabilizer in the spring for the summer? Modern fuel goes bad in few months and that might foul the spark plug. You can try to fill it up with fresh fuel and run it for a while and see if the problem goes away. If not you might need to replace one or both plugs.
 
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