STOP RIDE NOTICE: 2022 Polaris Matryx-- Merged the four threads together- Murph
- Thread starter zaasman
- Start date
Thanks for the picture.
T
Is it fairly easy to connect/disconnect the throttle cable with the can removed? Any other adjustments neede? Never done it so don’t want to make things worse. My throttle has been fine so far - buddy’s has stuck a couple times tho
Most of the sticking I’ve seen is the lever freezing to the throttle block.
I would disconnect the cable at the handlebars and re route it.
Much easier.
Here’s how I fixed the throttle sticking at the throttle block. (Along with a TSS bypass)
Mountain valley machine throttle block.
I disconnected at the throttle, like @Sheetmetalfab suggests. I pulled the can to have better access to re-route the cable, but left it connected at the throttle body. It's a little tight to snake the cable around the coolant line, a little care (common sense) is needed to keep from kinking and making it worse, but not a big deal.
I don't believe the original cable routing is causing the cable to stick, I just think it's less than ideal for smooth actuation, and creates stress points that may in time become problematic. I'm guessing the recall has more to do with assembly line procedures that may have caused the cable to kink during install on some sleds. It will be interesting to see what Polaris is telling dealers to do about it.
T
Thanks guys. I literally had a cart with that throttle block in it but didn’t pull the trigger. Probably should have and will in the future
Here’s how I ran it. When I had the upper coolant hose off to replace the head, the throttle cable just naturally wanted to go this way so I left it. Seemed just wrong to put it back the way it came from the factory
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First thing I do is change out the throttle block on those, running a Skinz very similar to the one in Sheatmetal's pic. Most of the issue I see is snow build up between the flipper and the block, which likely pulls some snow/water in with the cable and freezes.
Also, anybody compared the cable routing/tension between short and medium bars?
Also, anybody compared the cable routing/tension between short and medium bars?
sheet metal who’s tps bypass you running?
@Perk makes them.
Im running a Munster Finger throttle, comes with the bypass
Does anyone realize that some of these have nothing to do with the throttle cable? My TRS flat out doesn't work. I almost died the first time my sled went pinned off the trail but now that I am trained like a Boeing 737 Max pilot, I just rip the tether off when she decides to go pinned wide open. ? I never got the email so if I do die I'll make sure my family knows to sue.
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K
I also noted some less than ideal routing on my NA 850 Matryx Khaos Slash. When I installed my Munster throttle, I rerouted the cable the same way my it was 9n my 800 axys. It felt to me, at the time, like someone without adequate training routed it at the factory.
I've never ran a thumb throttle so I can't comment on it directly but it appears to be a long standing concern with the same cheap part number for many years. So unless the lawyer's just woke up and paid attention, I'm inclined to conclude that it's the routing and friction that bring this issue to light this year.
I've never ran a thumb throttle so I can't comment on it directly but it appears to be a long standing concern with the same cheap part number for many years. So unless the lawyer's just woke up and paid attention, I'm inclined to conclude that it's the routing and friction that bring this issue to light this year.
Yes. Go try your sled. My TRS doesn't work at all. Which makes them even more dangerous if they ice up. I'm willing to bet a ****load of them don't do anything. On the brightside I don't have to worry about getting stuck on the mountain ever again because a diode broke on my TRS ?
I've been trying it regularly since I got it in mid December. About 400mi worth.
The throttle block was icing to #U¢K until I replaced it. The stock block wasn't safe, and I've posted about this separately.
The cable has been running smoothly. Tons of cycles.
TRS seems irrelevant compared to the throttle block running smoothly and not freezing in deep snow causing the cruise control condition many have experienced.
The throttle block was icing to #U¢K until I replaced it. The stock block wasn't safe, and I've posted about this separately.
The cable has been running smoothly. Tons of cycles.
TRS seems irrelevant compared to the throttle block running smoothly and not freezing in deep snow causing the cruise control condition many have experienced.
In theory if your TRS works and the throttle gets stuck pinned the sled should cut out once you release the pressure on the flipper...
Or, when your (new stock feature) tether gets pulled as you come off the sled.
R
Does anybody have experience with Polaris warranty? If somebody did go on a trip before they come up with a solution would polaris warranty a part totaly unrelated to the throttle block or cable? I feel safe riding knowing there is a tether and kill switch, but riding out of warranty does scare me?
Anyone else receive this?
And no fix yet -
Polaris is currently evaluating a repair procedure for vehicles affected by this Stop Ride Notice. We will provide you with details of the remedy as soon as possible. At the time of availability,
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And no fix yet -
Polaris is currently evaluating a repair procedure for vehicles affected by this Stop Ride Notice. We will provide you with details of the remedy as soon as possible. At the time of availability,
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