Help me Build the "PERFECT" SnoWest Snowmobile trailer
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
I agree, I went with an aluminum trailer. My Mirage X-box frame looked like hell after the first season. The framing inside the trailer was rusty as well. Now granted, the X-box is their entry level trailer, but the paint they used on the framing was crap. I only hope they do something better on the higher end trailers. Right now, I'm considering finding/ordering some of the 4x8 ABS or whatever thin plastic sheets and 2" insulation to close up the bottom side of my trailer next summer. To late to do anything with it this fall.
The whole underbody treatment issue is an interesting question that I don't see any of the manufacturers addressing.
Calls for some more research....
Calls for some more research....
Something else to consider, in fact I might be trying to install this on my trailer after today 
I typically used the trailer enough in the winter that the batteries would remain charged, but the fuel gage on my fuel station is electrical. IE, over the course of several months, it will wear the batteries down. I think whats happened is its worn the batteries down, they froze, and now they don't appear to be holding a charge as well, so I might be in the market for some new deep cycle batteries here soon.
With that said. I think I might look into mounting a solar panel to run a battery tender. This way I'd never have to remove the batteries and I'd keep them charged and never have to worry about them freezing.
I typically used the trailer enough in the winter that the batteries would remain charged, but the fuel gage on my fuel station is electrical. IE, over the course of several months, it will wear the batteries down. I think whats happened is its worn the batteries down, they froze, and now they don't appear to be holding a charge as well, so I might be in the market for some new deep cycle batteries here soon.
With that said. I think I might look into mounting a solar panel to run a battery tender. This way I'd never have to remove the batteries and I'd keep them charged and never have to worry about them freezing.
This is an awesome thread, and will end up costing a lot of people a lot of money!
The couple of tidbits that I have to add are: Solar Panels for tending batteries is a great idea and basically a must have. When I worked construction we ran all of our battery chargers for cordless tools off of an inverter, so no matter what they were basically charged when we pulled up and unloaded.
Another thing is the under carriage of the trailer -- all of our trailers we used had Rhino or Line-X on the frame and such. Most of our trailers saw 20k miles per year and realistically we needed to touch up areas that were most prone to rocks and everything every 3-4 years.
The couple of tidbits that I have to add are: Solar Panels for tending batteries is a great idea and basically a must have. When I worked construction we ran all of our battery chargers for cordless tools off of an inverter, so no matter what they were basically charged when we pulled up and unloaded.
Another thing is the under carriage of the trailer -- all of our trailers we used had Rhino or Line-X on the frame and such. Most of our trailers saw 20k miles per year and realistically we needed to touch up areas that were most prone to rocks and everything every 3-4 years.
I wouldn't go with solar panels. They are expensive and what happens when it snows? Have to crawl up there and sweep them off or go for a drive..
They also might ice up.
Power tool battery chargers don't pull as many amps as a furnace.
They also might ice up.
Power tool battery chargers don't pull as many amps as a furnace.
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For those with steel or who are contemplating steel, look into a chassis coating such as Chassis Saver or POR 15. This is what commercial truck chassis are sometimes coated in. If your trailer is already getting rusty, you can have it blasted and get it re coated in one of these coatings for probably under $1500.00
That would be a simple cheap add on down the road.
Can't see any downside to it so long as it was mounted properly and didn't leak!!
Nothing in their material suggests it be used as a PREVENTATIVE TREATMENT?
Only seems intended for AFTER the fact???
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This the correct way to tie stuff down. Hold the track and skis down and let the suspension carry the weight. It causes less strain and wear on everything. It also allows the trailer to bride smoother.
I have seen tied own mounts ripped out because guys insist on strapping sleds or 4 wheelers down so they can't move at all. A good bump and the compressed suspension pulls even harder on the straps and mounts.
In an enclosed trailer you can get away with a strap on the back holding a sled from moving forward on hard braking and they won't move a bit. You would have to have serious HP and a monster lead foot to move a sled backwards upon acceleration.
You can put E track in the floor and walls both if you want more options for riding stuff down.
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For the last several years I have been the guy that LOADS the suspension and straps from the REAR only.
My Nytros have NEVER gone backwards, but ALWAYS try to go forward.
Never had a loaded one come loose though..
I guess the "Best" solution would be a super clamp??.
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My Nytros have NEVER gone backwards, but ALWAYS try to go forward.
Never had a loaded one come loose though..
I guess the "Best" solution would be a super clamp??.
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$1000 just to tie 5 sleds down.. or go E track so you can tie your quads down too. You can still strap the skid and skis down with E track.
I honestly didn't even look at the price.
$1,000.00 ??
That seems mighty high.
Either way, I plan on going with two strips of E-Track right now.
$1,000.00 ??
That seems mighty high.
Either way, I plan on going with two strips of E-Track right now.
Look at his super clamp holds your sled. By the skis and track, unsprung components. Not by loading the chassis.
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They clearly seem to be a very effective tool.
Just taken aback at the cost the other guy mentioned. For sled decks they seem a perfect solution.
I recommend 4 strips of vertical and use the E track ratchet straps.
1. When you strap your sled down on the skid, the ratchet seems to be right on the skid.. with 4 sets you can go across to the other e track and have the ratchet right in the middle of the trailer so it's easier to tighten and it doesn't scratch your skid.
2. E track ratchet straps have the clips built in. That way you aren't using normal ratchets and try to hook on to e track clips. Which you have to buy the attachment clips anyways.
3. Your friends won't take your E track ratchets because they can't use them on anything else.
4. Vertical E track is a lot easier to attach the E track ratchets to. If you get horizontal E track the strap is twisted.
This is probably confusing. If I had my trailer here I would take pictures and show you.
So I see the difference between the Vertical and the Horizontal, but I do NOT understand why you are suggesting the Vertical over the horizontal?
Is it just a matter of trying to get the straps to lay FLAT as they pass over the skis or through the Track/Skid??
And the problem this poses me is that I want to use the Superglides in the trailer.
I know I will have a Carbide resistant floor, but I REALLY likes the superglides in my current trailer and would use them again.
If I do that, there is NO way to install 4 sets of E-Tracks.
Vertical E-Track
Horizontal E-Track
Is it just a matter of trying to get the straps to lay FLAT as they pass over the skis or through the Track/Skid??
And the problem this poses me is that I want to use the Superglides in the trailer.
I know I will have a Carbide resistant floor, but I REALLY likes the superglides in my current trailer and would use them again.
If I do that, there is NO way to install 4 sets of E-Tracks.
Vertical E-Track
Horizontal E-Track
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So I see the difference between the Vertical and the Horizontal, but I do NOT understand why you are suggesting the Vertical over the horizontal?
Is it just a matter of trying to get the straps to lay FLAT as they pass over the skis or through the Track/Skid??
And the problem this poses me is that I want to use the Superglides in the trailer.
I know I will have a Carbide resistant floor, but I REALLY likes the superglides in my current trailer and would use them again.
If I do that, there is NO way to install 4 sets of E-Tracks.
Vertical E-Track
Horizontal E-Track
So the strap lays flat and more importantly the ratchet.
I also don't like how the clips pull on only one side when you use horizontal e track. The strap bunches up in the clip.
Keep in mind, my trailer has been rear ended and saw what happens to E track.
Ok, I didn't know you were going to go with superglides.
OK, that makes good sense.
This is worth considering.
The SuperGlides make the floor last forever.
REALLY REALLY liked them, and when there is SNOW and ICE on the floor, they ADD traction to step on with their ridged edges.
But your point is VERY well made.
This is worth considering.
The SuperGlides make the floor last forever.
REALLY REALLY liked them, and when there is SNOW and ICE on the floor, they ADD traction to step on with their ridged edges.
But your point is VERY well made.
I have been VERY happy with the speed and effectiveness of using super clamps in my enclosed for the sleds... and yes, they RULE for decks too! The sled isn't going to move either forward or backward with the ski clamps on, even parked on glides.
