Help me Build the "PERFECT" SnoWest Snowmobile trailer
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
Ahhh
A "professional" driver.
Nope, farmer.
Doesn't get much more PROFESSIONAL than that brother!!
Buying/ordering a trailer is a lot of work! You have to decide what you really want, what you can afford,compared to what you would like, IF money was an object! Everyone has their personal preferences on brands, material, size, creature comfort, and such. You have to wade thru the opinions you receive from dealers/manufactures, owners of said trailers, personal observations, and all the other impute you have asked for. Most hope that they are buying all the trailer that they will need/want, but look back thinking maybe I should have done this or that. The length of the trailer is like building a garage. You want to over build/think on the size, a little extra room is always nice to have. Good luck with your trailer search and buying.
BINGO!
That is EXACTLY what I am trying to avoid here!!
This stuff is awesome. You can place it lower on the walls and even in the floor. Clips go in and can be moved back and forth or even removed to customize the tied own points for whatever you are hauling.Figured it out
E-TRACK!
Ok.
School me here a bit.
WHY would you want it on the WALLS and not in the FLOOR?
I tie down my sleds 100% of the time when in my trailer.
So I definitely want some form of a tie down mechanism.
Torsion axles are worth the money. Mine rides like a dream compared to some leaf sprung trailers I have pulled.
Windows are definitely a plus so it doesn't feel claustrophobic.
Look at some of the race trailers the hill climbers have. Awnings, built in generators, lights and insulation.
Having the ability to put a car in it is also nice.
Get the plywood walls and put a coat of white paint on em. The luwan or white panel walls look really nice but it doesn't take much to knock a hole in it.
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So which route is better for the E-Trackl
In the Walls or in the Floor?
And WHY??
Torsion axles for sure.
Unless I can come up with a GOOD reason why NOT, Windows will happen.
Seriously thinking about the Awning.
Considering a Built-In generator, but worried where it would go and if it would effect ground clearance.
Lights and insulation for sure.
Have given NO consideration to Wood Walls vs. Vinyl yet.
In the Walls or in the Floor?
And WHY??
Torsion axles for sure.
Unless I can come up with a GOOD reason why NOT, Windows will happen.
Seriously thinking about the Awning.
Considering a Built-In generator, but worried where it would go and if it would effect ground clearance.
Lights and insulation for sure.
Have given NO consideration to Wood Walls vs. Vinyl yet.
one or two others have suggested the WALL route, but not a reason WHY??
With a sled I would think the floor would be the best spot to tie it down and load the suspension to keep it from moving around in the trailer?
With a sled I would think the floor would be the best spot to tie it down and load the suspension to keep it from moving around in the trailer?
I wouldn't tie a sled to the wall. IMO they aren't structurally strong enough to handle that kind of weight (think direction of pull), the floor is structurally stronger and obvious designed for cargo tie down.
I wouldnt load the suspension. Go over the skid and over the skis. If the suspension compresses the straps might come lose.
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I would certainly agree with you.
But I am curious as WHY some think the wall is a good idea?
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85870
Example of a gem compartment
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Not sure how to reply to the quoted quote, but to answer your questions:
1.) Generator wattage. It doesn't take much to run a heater, but I wanted to be able to run two 11k BTU A/Cs in the summer time and never have an interruption in power to a supercharged margarita machine either
.... I went WAY overboard and had them install a 5500W Cummins Onan genset. Total overkill, especially since I haven't gotten around to installing the A/C units yet. Also, HAVE THEM SOUND PROOF THE GENERATOR COMPARTMENT and mount the generator on external urethane pucks. Its annoying to try and sleep with it running even as quiet as the Cummins Onan units are. 2.) I have a 42k btu heater, and its not so much the heater as it is the insulation, but I sure wouldn't have wanted less than 42k. I did not have them put additional ducts through the walls to try and distribute the flow to the rear as unless you actually size the ducts properly, %80 of your flow will come out of the first set anyways. My trailer is 33', and I use every bit of the 42k at night sleeping in it when its 5 degrees out.
3.) Regarding shore power ... no sense burning fuel when its parked at my house. So if I am in there working (trailer doubles as a portable shop for me) I just want to plug it into a wall outlet to run the lights, vacuum, angle grinder, whatever I might have going on in there.
4.) I had sure thought they did a lot more installs like this, but considering that every single thing I had them add on such as fuel station, genset, heater didn't function properly if at all when I got it makes me think they really weren't near as well equipped to do this type of work as they advertised. With that said, they did a VERY good job on the general construction and fit and finish of the trailer. I don't ahve any complaints about that at all. Overall, its sturdy as can be.
5.) The Cummins Onan genset I bought does not have its own built-in battery. It is started and requires an external battery, and it doesn't have an alternator built in to charge that battery. The converter/charger takes AC power from the generator while it's running and converts it to DC and keeps the battery charged. I was totally surprised by this. I had instructed the builder several times during the design phase I wanted this to be totally self-contained electrically, so I was incredibly frustrated that I had a very expensive genset sitting in my trailer that wouldn't run right because they didn't install a $200 part to keep it going. that one really irked me. So, if you go with a C/O genset, be sure that detail is taken care of
6.) I don't know what is 'commonly' used in sled trailers, but I do know the 1/2" styrofoam stuff sucks. If you're getting this custom built, have them put the good stuff in.
7.) Regarding the walls, I have some sort of poly wood with a laminated sheet attatched with adhesive. Due to the humidity, the laminate began to peel after only one season. Most trailer MFGs to my knowledge use a painted particle board for the walls. However, if its available as an option, i think for durability something that is plastic would be much better than wood or wood with laminate.
8.) On the review of a high end sled trailer .... How high end do you want?
Truth be told, if I had mine to do over again, i would have, I just would have gone to a different builder after all the hassles I had with this one. 9.) Regarding fuel doors. I wanted them in case the fuel pump failed for whatever reason. I just felt better having them.
10.) Windows .... I'd go with 2 if its a trailer, 4 or more if its a camper/trailer. I put 4 in mine. But, as with the etrax, strategically place them with what your ultimate buildout plan will be to maximize wall space.
11.) Regarding the axles ... I have a steel trailer, the dry weight is 5300-lbs. It sits on twin 7k axles. If I bounce this thing, I'm in big trouble empty or not
.... I would just recommend the big axles for overall strength. I could have gone with triple 5200# torsional axles, but I didn't want a triple axle trailer because I wanted to be able to jacknife it around easier. I gave up a little bit of interior width because of this, but overall I'm not upset with the decision to go with dual 7k leaf-sprung axles.
I am unsettled on the axle question.Not sure how to reply to the quoted quote, but to answer your questions:
8.) On the review of a high end sled trailer .... How high end do you want?
I plan on getting something "Nice".
I have been saving my pennies for years.
Started looking for a new trailer in 2009.
I take my time with major purchases and now I am ready to pull the trigger and have something built, so I want to make sure we do it RIGHT the very first time.
11.) Regarding the axles ... I have a steel trailer, the dry weight is 5300-lbs. It sits on twin 7k axles. If I bounce this thing, I'm in big trouble empty or not
The triple are a pain in the but on pavement.
But on Dirt or Snow, scrubbing the tires should be a NON-Issue..
Do know that if I go to 30' rather than 28', have to go with triple.
I don't think so, I've seen some 45' trailers with the same style tandem-axle I have.
If you're set on the torsion axles perhaps that is the case. That I do not know.
I think you're on the right track to doing this right. Take your time, get quotes from multiple builders. Go look at some of their end products to get some ideas, etc. I wish I'd have shopped around a bit more. I will say, that the builder I got my trailer from did do some things very nice, but this thing should have been perfect the day I brought it home for what I forked over for it.
D
danduvall
Well-known member
Why not go with a "toy hauler" ? A lot of amenities would already be built-in...
Ac
heat
insulation
water
toilet kitchen
Living quarters
Cargo area
Generator
Multi - seasonal use!
Etc etc.
Cons... no drive in/out, steel frame, cost, would have to be huge to haul more than 2 sleds.
But it seems to me that it would be easier and cheaper to start with a toy hauler as your base, and add tool boxes and such. instead of basically turning a sled trailer into a toy hauler
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Ac
heat
insulation
water
toilet kitchen
Living quarters
Cargo area
Generator
Multi - seasonal use!
Etc etc.
Cons... no drive in/out, steel frame, cost, would have to be huge to haul more than 2 sleds.
But it seems to me that it would be easier and cheaper to start with a toy hauler as your base, and add tool boxes and such. instead of basically turning a sled trailer into a toy hauler
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I researched this route, but I could not find one that was truly suitable for sled hauling and deep winter camping.
I decided to take the "poor mans" route and sort of build one, less some of the creature comforts but that I could haul a lot with and camp in the snow for two or three days if I so chose to
Some great ideas so far.
For me the big thing would be to start with a gooseneck. Once your used to pulling them they are more maneuverable and pull much nicer then a bumper pull especially when its windy or icy.
Also to me a big thing would be making sure I start with a quality trailer that will last several years after it completed for me that would mean steel frame, and oversized axles. I've seen some really nice looking trailers that were very poorly built when you start talking to the owners frames breaking floor failing ect.
I would want a built in RV charger converter and probably an inverter also that way if your on shore power, generator power, or running off batteries you always have 12 volts and 110 volts.
A solid work bench which a gooseneck comes with built in and a nice storage area all in the front area.
Built in propane tank compartment or underneath mount is nice for the furnace.
Some bright thin light florescent lights for working I used 12 volt ones in my current trailer that can run off the battery or rv charger converter.
Wired with a couple 110 outlets and a few 12v receptacles also seems like my phone is always dying when were working on sleds.
Loading lights in the back are nice to. I wired a diode and a switch into my two LED backup lights so I can turn them on when were loading and it doesn't back feed to the pickup either.
For me the big thing would be to start with a gooseneck. Once your used to pulling them they are more maneuverable and pull much nicer then a bumper pull especially when its windy or icy.
Also to me a big thing would be making sure I start with a quality trailer that will last several years after it completed for me that would mean steel frame, and oversized axles. I've seen some really nice looking trailers that were very poorly built when you start talking to the owners frames breaking floor failing ect.
I would want a built in RV charger converter and probably an inverter also that way if your on shore power, generator power, or running off batteries you always have 12 volts and 110 volts.
A solid work bench which a gooseneck comes with built in and a nice storage area all in the front area.
Built in propane tank compartment or underneath mount is nice for the furnace.
Some bright thin light florescent lights for working I used 12 volt ones in my current trailer that can run off the battery or rv charger converter.
Wired with a couple 110 outlets and a few 12v receptacles also seems like my phone is always dying when were working on sleds.
Loading lights in the back are nice to. I wired a diode and a switch into my two LED backup lights so I can turn them on when were loading and it doesn't back feed to the pickup either.
Biggest reason is that they are intended for DRY SPORTS and not WET.
My plan is not to camp IN the trailer very often, only once in a great while.
I want it to haul to and from and be a comfortable place for myself and my guests both BEFORE and AFTER the ride. And of course a place to make repairs when we are far from home (like the Canada trip where I snapped off a heim join on an A-Arm)
And I have to be able to haul 4 mtn sleds, and 5 once in a while.
Size for a toy hauler would be huge.
