Help me Build the "PERFECT" SnoWest Snowmobile trailer
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
Even the quietest generators are noisy
I found that if i was trying to run my heater all night long off a single deep cycle battery, I would wake up in the middle of the night cold. I would suggest this primarily if you have any intention of ever camping in the trailer during the winter, but it isn't a bad idea to put more batteries in if you can find the space for it.Also, regarding the heater ducting .... I've seen that with virtually every heated trailer I've ever been in, all the hot air comes out of the first set of vents, then a little out of the second set, and virtually nothing out of any vents beyond that. In order for that to work properly, the size of the vent ports actually needs to be sized correctly to distribute the air properly. IE, you need smaller ports near the heater, larger ports the further away you get. If the builder actually calculates this out by all means do it, but if they're just putting some ducts in with the same size ports throughout, I'd just tell them to put as many outlets on the heater cabinet as they can fit and set it up to blow directly into the trailer.
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Gotcha.Even the quietest generators are noisy
THANKS again for the suggestions.
This thread is going to save me a PILE of headaches!!
When choosing your builder consider their warranty. Featherlite has a 10 year warranty. Many others are 5 or less.
I am in the quoting process with Featherlite right now on a custom 24' alumnum gooseneck. I own an overhead crane and hoist service/sales company and haul a scissor lift around everyday. It weighs 6000 lbs and is only 30" wide so I have to have the rear ramp door and the floor of the trailer beefed up to take the concentrated weight.
One of the flooring options from Featherlite is called Rumber. Which is a black tongue and groove plastic type textured plank. It is being used a lot on flatbed semi trailers for the decking material. It would be ideal for the sled trailer since it's completely rot proof, grippy, carbide resistant and looks sharp. The cost is considerable though. For my 24' x 8'6" trailer it was a $7200.00 adder for the Rumber floor over an extruded aluminum floor.
You had asked about E track on the wall. I have seen some trailers with remove able shelfs that go in the e-track, spanning across the trailer from wall to wall. This could be used for bunk beds. It is also very nice for the inevitable appliance hauling and furniture hauling that seems to come with having friends and relatives.
I had my trailer quoted with insulation and lined with white aluminum and would do the heating myself. The only thing I can't get my mind around is what to do about all the water when you pull a sled in to thaw?
I am in the quoting process with Featherlite right now on a custom 24' alumnum gooseneck. I own an overhead crane and hoist service/sales company and haul a scissor lift around everyday. It weighs 6000 lbs and is only 30" wide so I have to have the rear ramp door and the floor of the trailer beefed up to take the concentrated weight.
One of the flooring options from Featherlite is called Rumber. Which is a black tongue and groove plastic type textured plank. It is being used a lot on flatbed semi trailers for the decking material. It would be ideal for the sled trailer since it's completely rot proof, grippy, carbide resistant and looks sharp. The cost is considerable though. For my 24' x 8'6" trailer it was a $7200.00 adder for the Rumber floor over an extruded aluminum floor.
You had asked about E track on the wall. I have seen some trailers with remove able shelfs that go in the e-track, spanning across the trailer from wall to wall. This could be used for bunk beds. It is also very nice for the inevitable appliance hauling and furniture hauling that seems to come with having friends and relatives.
I had my trailer quoted with insulation and lined with white aluminum and would do the heating myself. The only thing I can't get my mind around is what to do about all the water when you pull a sled in to thaw?
Help me Build the "PERFECT" sled trailer
I have not brought the factory warranty into my equation yet, nor inquired if any of them offer an EXTENDED WARRANTY??
The featherlight trailers are WELL KNOWN for being one of the best built out there. No doubt you will end up with a great unit.
And you are DEAD NUTS RIGHT about moving.
The last three nights in a row I have been using my little 16ft trailer to help move a good buddy of mine just because I have a trailer and was willing to give him a hand.
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I have not brought the factory warranty into my equation yet, nor inquired if any of them offer an EXTENDED WARRANTY??
The featherlight trailers are WELL KNOWN for being one of the best built out there. No doubt you will end up with a great unit.
And you are DEAD NUTS RIGHT about moving.
The last three nights in a row I have been using my little 16ft trailer to help move a good buddy of mine just because I have a trailer and was willing to give him a hand.
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V
What, am I supposed to be ALONE in spending my lifesavings on a trailer??
Misery LOVES company!!
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Misery LOVES company!!
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V
All kidding aside. I do like a well equipped, thought out, trailer. No point in going into the decision uninformed.
As for water in the trailer. My rear door seal is not completely sealed so when I get back from riding I just leave the tongue jack up for a couple days while the water runs to the back of the floor and runs out. Then I can lower the jack to even out the weight on the tires. If it is real bad I will put a box fan in to move the air and evaporate the water quicker. A furnace plus a fan would be a nice combo.
As for water in the trailer. My rear door seal is not completely sealed so when I get back from riding I just leave the tongue jack up for a couple days while the water runs to the back of the floor and runs out. Then I can lower the jack to even out the weight on the tires. If it is real bad I will put a box fan in to move the air and evaporate the water quicker. A furnace plus a fan would be a nice combo.
The track melt system in the TW GN has drain holes in it, but I don't think any else has a feature to drain - mostly due to it would just freeze up all the time.
On a side note, you mentioned using the trailer to haul your RZRs around. Make sure you measure the height of your RZRs and let the MFG know you need enough clearance on the rear ramp framing, it's usually a little smaller/lower than the ceiling. I'm guessing you may have to request an extra 6 inches of height. Most MFG have a 6" or 12" extra height option.
Yes.
I will be ordering a +6" trailer to accommodate the height of the roll cages on the RZRs.
Yes, 7' interior height is your friend. Definatley order it taller than the standard 6.5'
Sigh...
Taller
Wider
Longer
Heavier
I am going to need a new truck to pull this new trailer!
Hmmmm
Come to think of it, I rather LIKE that idea!!!
Taller
Wider
Longer
Heavier
I am going to need a new truck to pull this new trailer!
Hmmmm
Come to think of it, I rather LIKE that idea!!!
Sigh...
Taller
Wider
Longer
Heavier
I am going to need a new truck to pull this new trailer!
Hmmmm
Come to think of it, I rather LIKE that idea!!!
IMO, don't go any taller or longer than you need to
..Taller = more fuel to pull, longer = more of a pita to manuever. But, I'm 6'4" .... My old trailer I couldn't stand upright in with my helmet on, so I wanted it tall enough I could do that. 7' was perfect. Someone who is 6'6" might want one 7.5' tall though, idk
Wider, you're pretty well limited by highway regs, which I believe is 8.5' at the widest without having to have a special permit. Longer ... well .... so far you have people telling you to get everything from a 28' to a 48', so I guess the major question you have to ask is .... "How many friends without trailers do I have?" LoL.
I spent a good 6 months designing and re-thinking my "Dream" trailer.
The final design I found was trailer that was beyond just adding options to an existing manufacture's model, so I went custom and the results were fantastic. However, happiness comes at a price and in this case a big price, but I feel I have a life-time trailer for my needs.
Keys things I would recommend:
1. If a custom build, then taking the time to find a manufacture that is willing to work with you on getting what you want, not what they want to sell you. It took awhile to find the right mix of fabrication skill, a manufacturer that could make it happen in a somewhat timely matter and at a cost that wasn't at a Formula One level.
2. If you got the cash, I recommend Heavy Duty Aluminum construction.
I had 3 steel trailers back to back and the rise in use of liquid de-icers just killed them and this happened a lot quicker than I thought possible, mostly on the undercarriage and frame. To a degree, aluminum is suspect as well to road chemicals and has it's own issues with strength, but I didn't go Aluminum for light weight, I went that way because I'm lazy. It is purely for the corrosion resistance. My trailer is built like Brick S&%# house and probably weighs close to what a similar sized steel trailer would weigh, but I know if I can't wash it right away after a long dirty trip, it won't deteriorate like a steel trailer will.
3. My trailer is my garage.
Since I don't have a fancy shop, I made my trailer my shop. The entire front end is an outfitted work bench with all the power, lights, storage, tie downs, etc that I thought necessary. And what shop is complete without beer fridge as well. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the inside, but I can pretty much wrench on the toys in a nice heated or cooled environment. And then kick the toys outside for a place to sleep whether in the dunes or in the high country. Nothing fancy, just useful.
I can haul 4 sleds, or 2 Sides by sides, or a Jeep or a race car or all my ex-wife's stuff to the dump.
Of course my problem now is I have an itch for a new build. Funny how that goes.
The final design I found was trailer that was beyond just adding options to an existing manufacture's model, so I went custom and the results were fantastic. However, happiness comes at a price and in this case a big price, but I feel I have a life-time trailer for my needs.
Keys things I would recommend:
1. If a custom build, then taking the time to find a manufacture that is willing to work with you on getting what you want, not what they want to sell you. It took awhile to find the right mix of fabrication skill, a manufacturer that could make it happen in a somewhat timely matter and at a cost that wasn't at a Formula One level.
2. If you got the cash, I recommend Heavy Duty Aluminum construction.
I had 3 steel trailers back to back and the rise in use of liquid de-icers just killed them and this happened a lot quicker than I thought possible, mostly on the undercarriage and frame. To a degree, aluminum is suspect as well to road chemicals and has it's own issues with strength, but I didn't go Aluminum for light weight, I went that way because I'm lazy. It is purely for the corrosion resistance. My trailer is built like Brick S&%# house and probably weighs close to what a similar sized steel trailer would weigh, but I know if I can't wash it right away after a long dirty trip, it won't deteriorate like a steel trailer will.
3. My trailer is my garage.
Since I don't have a fancy shop, I made my trailer my shop. The entire front end is an outfitted work bench with all the power, lights, storage, tie downs, etc that I thought necessary. And what shop is complete without beer fridge as well. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the inside, but I can pretty much wrench on the toys in a nice heated or cooled environment. And then kick the toys outside for a place to sleep whether in the dunes or in the high country. Nothing fancy, just useful.
I can haul 4 sleds, or 2 Sides by sides, or a Jeep or a race car or all my ex-wife's stuff to the dump.
Of course my problem now is I have an itch for a new build. Funny how that goes.
Ok.
So next question.
What about an underbody SPRAY COATING??
Is there any reason why it couldn't be treated just like a new car??
So next question.
What about an underbody SPRAY COATING??
Is there any reason why it couldn't be treated just like a new car??
MBP's trailer is awesome, I would definatley talk to Mission about this.
I had my trailer built with the heavy duty under coating, and even after two seasons its starting to show its age already. You really need to recoat them each year.
"Under coating " is junk. Stones easilly chip it, if it doesnt peel of on its own and Moisture will soon permeate it . If you want to coat the under side. Get a legit coating like line -x. Or simply get the framed oiled every year, its cheap, effective, and easy!!
Go aluminum frame!!!
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