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Help me Build the "PERFECT" SnoWest Snowmobile trailer

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Some great ideas so far.

For me the big thing would be to start with a gooseneck. Once your used to pulling them they are more maneuverable and pull much nicer then a bumper pull especially when its windy or icy.

This is clearly becoming a theme in so many different replies..


I would want a built in RV charger converter and probably an inverter also that way if your on shore power, generator power, or running off batteries you always have 12 volts and 110 volts.

Clearly a must have.

A solid work bench which a gooseneck comes with built in and a nice storage area all in the front area.

Built in propane tank compartment or underneath mount is nice for the furnace.

If I go with a bumper pull, I need to see if I can get the twin tanks OFF of the hitch and under the trailer without compromising ground clearance.



Some bright thin light florescent lights for working I used 12 volt ones in my current trailer that can run off the battery or rv charger converter.

Lights, Lights, Lights.
Everyone wants MORE lights.
:face-icon-small-hap

Wired with a couple 110 outlets and a few 12v receptacles also seems like my phone is always dying when were working on sleds.

Gotta have power.

A thought.
Wonder what it would take to have a little USB panel built so anyone could charge a Phone-iPad-iPod??


Loading lights in the back are nice to. I wired a diode and a switch into my two LED backup lights so I can turn them on when were loading and it doesn't back feed to the pickup either.

External lights front, back and side are on my list!
 
So just a couple things that I haven't seen mentioned, or mentioned much. IMO the power system should be some good batteries with all trailer amenities 12v and an inverter to run the occasional 110v that would be needed. It's so nice to not have to fire up, listen to, or fuel a generator for your trailer. A good set of golf cart batteries will run your heater and minimal lights for 3-5 days. Most trips the batteries charge off the truck the whole way there, get used for a little but loading and unloading then charge the whole way back. A shore power plug and a suitcase generator can be brought along if your going to be longer than that.

Also something to look into is a happijack bed system. They are spendy and I've only ever seen them in toy haulers. It's a set of four very small tracks that mount to the walls and crank the beds up to the ceiling when not in use. If set up right you can have two queen sized bunk beds, and room for an air mattress under it, sleeping 3-6 people in a 6' chunk I the trailer and not taking up ANY sled space.

As for the bumper mount, under mount propane tank, mount it between the axles and theirs no clearance loss. Also plumb in a BBQ connection.

I'm in the process of building my first enclosed, I have learned from many friends projects, but I'm sure I'll have more come mid season.
 
So just a couple things that I haven't seen mentioned, or mentioned much. IMO the power system should be some good batteries with all trailer amenities 12v and an inverter to run the occasional 110v that would be needed. It's so nice to not have to fire up, listen to, or fuel a generator for your trailer. A good set of golf cart batteries will run your heater and minimal lights for 3-5 days. Most trips the batteries charge off the truck the whole way there, get used for a little but loading and unloading then charge the whole way back. A shore power plug and a suitcase generator can be brought along if your going to be longer than that.

Also something to look into is a happijack bed system. They are spendy and I've only ever seen them in toy haulers. It's a set of four very small tracks that mount to the walls and crank the beds up to the ceiling when not in use. If set up right you can have two queen sized bunk beds, and room for an air mattress under it, sleeping 3-6 people in a 6' chunk I the trailer and not taking up ANY sled space.

As for the bumper mount, under mount propane tank, mount it between the axles and theirs no clearance loss. Also plumb in a BBQ connection.

I'm in the process of building my first enclosed, I have learned from many friends projects, but I'm sure I'll have more come mid season.
 
If you go with a bumper pull another option for the tanks is you can build a single tank in the front of the V on my united it was unused space.

I think when you do an under mount tank it's better to start with one of the rv horizontal tanks they are skinnier and longer with valves set up for mounting that way.

USB would be easy off 110 they make outlets with 1 110v plug and 2 USB plugs along with the built in converter. 12v to USB would be more efficient and wouldn't be hard to do either.
 
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Also something to look into is a happijack bed system. They are spendy and I've only ever seen them in toy haulers. It's a set of four very small tracks that mount to the walls and crank the beds up to the ceiling when not in use. If set up right you can have two queen sized bunk beds, and room for an air mattress under it, sleeping 3-6 people in a 6' chunk I the trailer and not taking up ANY sled space.

Actually one of the things I FIRST thought about.
But.
I want to be able to carry my Polaris RZRs in the summer.
This means I already need a +6" higher trailer than normal.
If we install the bunks, then the RZRs roll cage will hit them unless we go even TALLER. Not sure I want a +1' trailer??


As for the bumper mount, under mount propane tank, mount it between the axles and theirs no clearance loss. Also plumb in a BBQ connection.

Need to find out where they hand the FUEL TANK to see if the propane can do down there or not.
GAS BBQ?

Man, that would be a bitter pill to swallow.
I gave up on Gas 20 years ago and cook only on Wood/Coal.
Not sure if I could make that sacrifice
:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap


I'm in the process of building my first enclosed, I have learned from many friends projects, but I'm sure I'll have more come mid season.

Comments appreciated!!
 
If you go with a bones bumper pull another option for the tanks is you can build a single tank in the front of the V on my united it was unused space.

I think when you do an under mount tank it's better to start with one of the rv horizontal tanks they are skinnier and longer with valves set up for mounting that way.


USB would be easy off 110 they make outlets with 1 110v plug and 2 USB plugs along with the built in converter. 12v to USB would be more efficient and wouldn't be hard to do either.
Since this will be a new custom build, i would sure expect them to use the RIGHT style of tank if it can go under the frame and be WELL protected from road rock and such.
 
So, this is what I have distilled from everyone's comments SO FAR.
In addition to any "Package" that I get from the manufacturer, the following items should be ADDED.



LIGHTS:
Exterior Running Lights
Dual 55 Watt Halogen Load Light (Front & Back ramps)
ATP Exterior Side Floodlights (on Door Entrance Side)
Surface Mount Fluorescent Interior RV Lights
12 Volt Fluorescent Interior spot Lights

POWER:
Small, 2-3K Gas Generator
Shore power system
Dual Deep Cycle RV Batteries
Charger Controller to charge from Truck, Shore Power or Generator.
Inverter to supply 110 from batteries.
Onboard Battery Maintainer Charger
AC outlets for Tools, chargers, ect..
USB Outlet for Phones/iPads/iPods ?

FURNITURE
Fold-Down Sitting Benches
Fold-Down Padded Couch/Bed "2 units"

FLOOR
Black Polybead Floor.
Superclamp Superglides II Pro with Edge Trim
Ski Deflector - High Profile at front ramp
E-Tracks, 2 strips
Cover the loading ramp joints with HEAVY gauge plastic Strip to keep it clear of snow/ice (ie. Trails West)

TRAILER BODY:
Dual Fuel Doors
2 Trailer Windows
Fold Down Rear Stabilizer
Carefree 20' Retractable Awning
Better thicker denser insulation
Bi-Directional Pop Out Vents?
Coleman Mach 15k BTU Roof Mount Air Conditioner

INTERIOR:
RV Fire Extinguisher
Smoke Alarm/CO Detector
Diamond Plate on bottom quarter of inner sidewalls for protection
Back pack Hangers / holders.
LCD TV
Mount some extra stainless steel Sled-Specific cabinets (RB Components?)

HEAT:
30K Min, 40K if available.

FRAME:
2.5K Deluxe Electric A-Frame Jack
Roller Wheels on rear end to alleviate dragging.
Utility Trailer Steel Under body Box
Steel Tongue Toolbox (may be impossible with propane tanks)
Relocate propane tanks from Tongue to undercariage is possible?
Upgrade the tires to BEST quality
Can we DIAMOND plate the front frame (ala Trails West) to protect it from road abuse?
Upgrade the Axles to heavier ratings.
 

I'm selling the trailer we did the build up on for Mountain Mod Mania.
Its a Triton Prestige 28' that sold for $27,500. It has every option known to man!

Scorpion Lining on floor
SuperClamps (4)
SuperClamps Rear (4)
SuperGlides Throughout and on ramps
4 heaters-2 cat, 1 forced air 2 speed and one electric
High end Xantrex charger, inverted package with 3 batteries with 6000amps of power!
Air Conditioning
Atwood 25,000-50,000 BTU furnace ducted to a custom boot/helmet drier.
Custom iron piping on all propane lines with fitting for a BBQ.
2 30 gallon propane tanks
Co2 and Propane detectors
Onan 2800 generator
Moduline cabinets and workbench
Craftsman aircompressor with Cox reels hose reel
Cox trouble light on a reel
Pioneer CD Ipod deck
3 Kicker Amps
2 Kicker Subs
4 Kicker Speakers
Electric Step
Electric roof mounted awning
65 gallon fuel tank w12v pump with Autometer fuel guage (not installed yet)
Custom graphics (easily removed)
Electric Jack
Street Glow neon
Trailer is completely insulated
Spray foam insulated floor
Cabinets throughout

This trailer was featured in Mountain Mod Mania 4, 5 and 6 and V-Twin Mania!
It is on the cover of Tritons catalog.
It would cost close to $70,000 to build this trailer!
Selling for $34,995... not cheap but take the best trailer in the world and bling it out to the max and its done right!


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So, this is what I have distilled from everyone's comments SO FAR.
In addition to any "Package" that I get from the manufacturer, the following items should be ADDED.



LIGHTS:
Exterior Running Lights
Dual 55 Watt Halogen Load Light (Front & Back ramps)
ATP Exterior Side Floodlights (on Door Entrance Side)
Surface Mount Fluorescent Interior RV Lights
12 Volt Fluorescent Interior spot Lights

POWER:
Small, 2-3K Gas Generator
Shore power system
Dual Deep Cycle RV Batteries
Charger Controller to charge from Truck, Shore Power or Generator.
Inverter to supply 110 from batteries.
Onboard Battery Maintainer Charger
AC outlets for Tools, chargers, ect..
USB Outlet for Phones/iPads/iPods ?

FURNITURE
Fold-Down Sitting Benches
Fold-Down Padded Couch/Bed "2 units"

FLOOR
Black Polybead Floor.
Superclamp Superglides II Pro with Edge Trim
Ski Deflector - High Profile at front ramp
E-Tracks, 2 strips
Cover the loading ramp joints with HEAVY gauge plastic Strip to keep it clear of snow/ice (ie. Trails West)

TRAILER BODY:
Dual Fuel Doors
2 Trailer Windows
Fold Down Rear Stabilizer
Carefree 20' Retractable Awning
Better thicker denser insulation
Bi-Directional Pop Out Vents?
Coleman Mach 15k BTU Roof Mount Air Conditioner

INTERIOR:
RV Fire Extinguisher
Smoke Alarm/CO Detector
Diamond Plate on bottom quarter of inner sidewalls for protection
Back pack Hangers / holders.
LCD TV
Mount some extra stainless steel Sled-Specific cabinets (RB Components?)

HEAT:
30K Min, 40K if available.

FRAME:
2.5K Deluxe Electric A-Frame Jack
Roller Wheels on rear end to alleviate dragging.
Utility Trailer Steel Under body Box
Steel Tongue Toolbox (may be impossible with propane tanks)
Relocate propane tanks from Tongue to undercariage is possible?
Upgrade the tires to BEST quality
Can we DIAMOND plate the front frame (ala Trails West) to protect it from road abuse?
Upgrade the Axles to heavier ratings.

For a generator I recommend a Honda eu3000is. I have one, they are very quiet and produce clean power.

inverter.. probably a kinsae. They are a pure sine wave and have a plug in for usb.



EDIT: or a honda 2000.. they are nice, small and quiet. Girlfriend's sister uses one for her horse trailer.
 
For a generator I recommend a Honda eu3000is. I have one, they are very quiet and produce clean power.

inverter.. probably a kinsae. They are a pure sine wave and have a plug in for usb.
I have an eu2000 and a eu6500 right now for my house.
LOVE those generators!
 
Heck... Go totaly custom...make one from a vintage airstream, hydraulic tail section and decked out inside... Radiant heat in the floor... and all the other goodies too.

59Overlander.jpg
 
Something to think about on your propane.
If you do an RV style propane tank under the frame I would think that you would want to check your propane level each time prior to leaving. With the tank there you aren't going to be able to fill it easily IF you run out up in the mountains. With propane bottles you can change them out easily if you have a spare or two, or even borrow one from someone if you run out up in the mountains. You also don't have to run the trailer over to your local propane business to have them fill your tank. There are pros and cons to both ways of carrying propane. The RV tank under the frame does make the trailer look a lot cleaner then the bottles.

Someone had mentioned tandem axles vs triple axles. Have a friend with a 5th wheel triple axle stock trailer and it pulls and rides considerably better then the tandem axle trailer same length, 24 foot. He commented that with the triple he can turn around corners a lot easier then the tandem. He has owned both, triple and tandem and prefers the triple over the tandem. Tire wear is better on the triple axle also.
 
I agree 100% with the comments about putting good batteries in.
that was one addition I made myself was to add another deep cycle battery, and i wish I could have added 2 more on top of that. The more battery capacity you have the better off you will be with this.
 
I have a 30' mirage. It has the triple axles. The tires do skid on the pavement but it pulles like a dream. It also has an underbelly propane tank. The propane tank is not big enough though. I would find one that is a descent size and mount it above the axles and put remote fills on both sides of the trailer. It is a pain trying to get turned around in service stations to get to the propane. I have also found that you may be limited to where you can fill up with the automotive style propane pump, as that is the case up here in Canada. I wish the furnace was at the front blowing down the center of the trailer unless you are planning on a bunch of ducting. Hope this helps.
 
Someone had mentioned tandem axles vs triple axles. Have a friend with a 5th wheel triple axle stock trailer and it pulls and rides considerably better then the tandem axle trailer same length, 24 foot. He commented that with the triple he can turn around corners a lot easier then the tandem. He has owned both, triple and tandem and prefers the triple over the tandem. Tire wear is better on the triple axle also.
Wow am I surprised to hear that.
Pretty much exactly the opposite of what I would have expected to hear.
Turning in a triple is usually what you DON'T like as the inner and outter tire SCRUB which can lead to premature wear "IF" you do a lot of slow sharp turning when your parking the trailer.

I dealt with a LOT of triple axle trailers in my boat business.
Every single one of them was a major PAIN IN THE BUTT when it came to tight quarters maneuvering in and out of the shop to work on them.
I cant count the number of times I was SURE i was going to pop a bead on the tires for how BADLY they were distorting when being forced to make a HARD SHARP turn while parking the trailer.
 
I agree 100% with the comments about putting good batteries in.
that was one addition I made myself was to add another deep cycle battery, and i wish I could have added 2 more on top of that. The more battery capacity you have the better off you will be with this.
I want to make sure I understand you here.
You're suggesting FOUR Deep Cycle Batteries??
Is the goal here to just NOT use the generator at all?
 
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