I got an idea.......... How's about fencing off an area so you guys can queer up together. That way the normal folks in society don't have to listen to the BS.
OT
OT
Weight vs. Clicker
- Thread starter triple7
- Start date
If you're normal than I'd rather be queer ... LMAO. You are a JOKE and a bad one at that!
OT =
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You guys don't need my help your all doing a great job at fornicating.
OT
OT
L
Little Eddy
Well-known member
Come on OT,where's the clicking
click,,,click,,,,click
click,,,click,,,,click
Ok guys, aside from OT being a typical dumb****, no nothing, I have learned quite a bit from this thread.
So, the next question is, if I wanted a ramp profile that was basically a 413 on clicker 4 for the first portion of the ramp, and a 413 on clicker 2 for the second half of the ramp, what ramp would I be needing??
OR, how could a worn 413 be modified to achieve this result??
Also, the 417 ramp has an interesting shape, low ramp thickness at the bottom, relatively flat for the first 1/2 shift, then builds rapidly to a relatively steep 2nd half. How do these ramps work in mountain applications, past and present??
Thanks for all the good info!! Try not to fall into the OT bs and lets keep this going.
So, the next question is, if I wanted a ramp profile that was basically a 413 on clicker 4 for the first portion of the ramp, and a 413 on clicker 2 for the second half of the ramp, what ramp would I be needing??
OR, how could a worn 413 be modified to achieve this result??
Also, the 417 ramp has an interesting shape, low ramp thickness at the bottom, relatively flat for the first 1/2 shift, then builds rapidly to a relatively steep 2nd half. How do these ramps work in mountain applications, past and present??
Thanks for all the good info!! Try not to fall into the OT bs and lets keep this going.
Here's some of the best advice you will ever need located in the picture below. Follow the advice and document your findings will put you ahead of the game.
OT
OT
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You should also be aware that the 415, 417 and 433 will move when clicking your TRA clickers UP or DOWN in calibration.
Just thought i would point that out
OT
Just thought i would point that out
OT
You should also be aware that the 415, 417 and 433 will move when clicking your TRA clickers UP or DOWN in calibration.
Just thought i would point that out
OT
Everyone f'ing knows this and noone has said anything different. Do you understand? Everyone knows that when you adjust your clicker the off sets move the ramp. Everyone agrees with that. What noone believes is that the ramps move during operation of the sled. Once the side panel is closed and you ride away from above described adjustment, the ramps don't move until the next time the clickers are adjusted. Yah, maybe for a micro second they do so they can fall down to new resting point, but that is beside the point. So what the fuk, why can't you shut the fuk up with your useless dribble in every otherwise good thread about doo clutching and set up? I bet you ride by yourself a lot, don't you? If you are anything in real life like you are on this forum I feel sorry for your family.
nate
No sh@t?? You mean to tell me that I actually have to get out there on the mountain and test different setups to find the one I like best?? Are you serious?? Cuz I thought for sure playing keyboard jockey like you do would get the job done on its own...
If you did test in the field you wouldn't be asking DUMB*** questions.
Example: I want a ramp that was basically a 413 on clicker 4 for the first portion of the rampand a 413 on clicker 2 for the second half of the ramp
All your clickers do is add or subtract rpm which has nothing to do with the profile of the 413 ramp. You would know that if you did any testing.
OT
Example: I want a ramp that was basically a 413 on clicker 4 for the first portion of the rampand a 413 on clicker 2 for the second half of the ramp
All your clickers do is add or subtract rpm which has nothing to do with the profile of the 413 ramp. You would know that if you did any testing.
OT
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Actually when you change the clicker position the relative angle between the ramp (at any given point) and center line of the crankshaft does, without a doubt, change. So there is more change than just RPM.
If the contact point of the roller and ramp at 1/2" of clutch shift has an effective angle of 44 degrees, for example, then going to a higher and/or lower clicker position will have a different effective angle (perhaps only 1 tenth of a degree angle change) at the same shift out point. Thus it will change the characteristic at the same shift point, hence you get a change in RPM. The change in this characteristic will be even greater on more progressive ramps.
If the contact point of the roller and ramp at 1/2" of clutch shift has an effective angle of 44 degrees, for example, then going to a higher and/or lower clicker position will have a different effective angle (perhaps only 1 tenth of a degree angle change) at the same shift out point. Thus it will change the characteristic at the same shift point, hence you get a change in RPM. The change in this characteristic will be even greater on more progressive ramps.
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I agree in theory, however if you had 3 well tuned sleds all the same type and track length lets say 09 163 XP's bone stock .....sled#1 on clicker 2, sled #2 on clicker 3, and sled #3 on clicker 4 all taching 8200 rpm....Me, You or anyone else would not notice any diffreance between the 3 sleds that are all running consistantly well at 8200 rpm.
The clicker position should be the least important factor of a well tuned sled and should never be used for nothing more than adding or subtracting 200 rpm when needed. If you find yourself needing 400 rpm your baseline setup is more than likely off and in need of a better baseline tune.
Also ALL arms weather there stock, heavyhitters or CRA's they ALL require force/push from the ramp to the roller arm or vise versa to keep the motor under load and working and turning peak rpm.
I own Polaris and Yammies as well, so i tune my TRA as if the clickers are not even there. Which in my opinion is a good rule to follow for baseline tuning.
Lots of folks tune there TRA to run in clicker #1 and never have to adjust up because there baseline tune is spot on.
OT
The clicker position should be the least important factor of a well tuned sled and should never be used for nothing more than adding or subtracting 200 rpm when needed. If you find yourself needing 400 rpm your baseline setup is more than likely off and in need of a better baseline tune.
Also ALL arms weather there stock, heavyhitters or CRA's they ALL require force/push from the ramp to the roller arm or vise versa to keep the motor under load and working and turning peak rpm.
I own Polaris and Yammies as well, so i tune my TRA as if the clickers are not even there. Which in my opinion is a good rule to follow for baseline tuning.
Lots of folks tune there TRA to run in clicker #1 and never have to adjust up because there baseline tune is spot on.
OT
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I concur with that.
Well if you actually believe that all altering clicker position does is alter rpm you are the dumbest some b@tch ive ever heard of. Did it ever strike you to think, just a little, that there must be a change in angle of the ramp to create a change in rpm?? Probably not.
As far as having 3 sleds running different clickers and posting identical rpm's and not being able to tell a difference in feel... That wasnt really my question. I wanted to know if anyone knew of a ramp that has a slightly less aggressive (acording to dynojoe definition) initial portion of the ramp than a 413 coupled with a slightly more aggressive finish. Because all clicker position effects is the overall level of aggression of the ramp. Therefore I worded the question what ramp would have angles most similar to a 413 on clicker 4 for the first half, clicker 2 for the second. Seems like a simple concept to grasp...Ill try to remember to dumb things down far enough so you can follow and not make an *** out of urself OT
Back to the question, does anyone know of a ramp like this??
As far as having 3 sleds running different clickers and posting identical rpm's and not being able to tell a difference in feel... That wasnt really my question. I wanted to know if anyone knew of a ramp that has a slightly less aggressive (acording to dynojoe definition) initial portion of the ramp than a 413 coupled with a slightly more aggressive finish. Because all clicker position effects is the overall level of aggression of the ramp. Therefore I worded the question what ramp would have angles most similar to a 413 on clicker 4 for the first half, clicker 2 for the second. Seems like a simple concept to grasp...Ill try to remember to dumb things down far enough so you can follow and not make an *** out of urself OT
Back to the question, does anyone know of a ramp like this??
FYI, There Is No Such Ramp.
Describe to the forum what you feel when in clicker #4 of the 1st half of the 413 ?... And than describe to the forum what you feel in clicker #2 of the other half of the 413 ? Is the forum suppose to know this in adavnce ?.... And while your explaining, it would also help to know what elevation, what the riding temp is , what type of snow.....Certainly you would have to agree that all these factors effect clutch & engine performance, CORRECT ?
Only you know what you feel dude, that why i suggested that you TEST, TEST, TEST.
And yes adjusting the clickers will ONLY increase or decrease rpm
Don't forget to take another BONG hit, it shows in your TRA knowledge
OT
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Well, after ALOT of testing.....changing clickers does ALOT more than change RPM. It changes the feel of the entire shift pattern, has a HUGE effect on the secondary's ability to backshift and the speed it can regain RPM. It also has a HUGE effect on the amount of belt squeeze and heat generated.....sometimes without a percievable change in RPM.
I understood exacty what triple 7 was saying with the different "feel" of the different portions of the ramps.....as anyone who has actually DONE ANY TESTING would have. I think it's VERY obvious who here has actually done testing and who relies on their dealer for setup.
I understood exacty what triple 7 was saying with the different "feel" of the different portions of the ramps.....as anyone who has actually DONE ANY TESTING would have. I think it's VERY obvious who here has actually done testing and who relies on their dealer for setup.
Here is better than what you asked for...
Have 15 sets sent out.
Have another 85 sets being made right now as we speak.
Comes with roll pins pressed in at the correct position.
Clicky here to get on Ramp list
...and I will put you on the list if you did not be on it already
thanks
Joey
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Clutching is all about being calibrated correctly, weather your on clicker #2 or #4. The motor needs to perform to its desired rpm regardless of where your arm/roller is located on the ramp.
If your rpm is off performance is sluggish everywhere on the ramp....If your baseline clutch setup is spot on and your rpm is correct your sled will rip everywhere on the ramp.... right JOE
Going Big Game Fishin In BAJA for the next week. Some of you will be happy to know this so you can bash me while im gone LOL
OT
If your rpm is off performance is sluggish everywhere on the ramp....If your baseline clutch setup is spot on and your rpm is correct your sled will rip everywhere on the ramp.... right JOE
Going Big Game Fishin In BAJA for the next week. Some of you will be happy to know this so you can bash me while im gone LOL
OT
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Why?? People don't seem to have any trouble bashing you while your here. The civil discourse in this forum will be nice for a change.
