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TRS Patriot motor mounts

I think a lot of this stuff is snake oil. The majority of people who buy it aren't good enough for this crap to matter. Rusty Dave why don't you meet me up on the mountain this year and enlighten me. I've ridden Burandt's sled which I'm willing to bet is set up just as good as Indy Dan or TRS can set up and I've jumped on a bone stock and I'll tell you the gap isn't that big. Doesn't justify spending money on all this crap unless you like spending money. I've never blown a belt on a Polaris. Never done any after market clutching. I dare any of you to come ride with me and prove otherwise. But most all the people on this forum are keyboard jockies and won't meet on the mountain ??‍♂️
 
I think a lot of this stuff is snake oil. The majority of people who buy it aren't good enough for this crap to matter. Rusty Dave why don't you meet me up on the mountain this year and enlighten me. I've ridden Burandt's sled which I'm willing to bet is set up just as good as Indy Dan or TRS can set up and I've jumped on a bone stock and I'll tell you the gap isn't that big. Doesn't justify spending money on all this crap unless you like spending money. I've never blown a belt on a Polaris. Never done any after market clutching. I dare any of you to come ride with me and prove otherwise. But most all the people on this forum are keyboard jockies and won't meet on the mountain ??‍♂️
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Proof is in the pudding. You haven’t blown a belt on a Polaris, therefore you ride like a girl. No wonder u can’t feel the difference, half throttle is scary fast for you. Haha snowflake ❄️
 
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt.......

Chadly, read that a few times
Maybe once you get your motor mounts installed you'll be as good of as rider as I am. ?

I'm not trying to bag on TRS or his innovations he comes up with. He's obviously respected around here for his knowledge and clutch set ups. What I am throwing shade on is the massive amount of people on here who can't ride worth a crap and buy trinkets to bolt on their sleds hoping that it will give them more talent. Many of people on here who have tried to call me out go quiet when I'm in the neighborhood and off to ride with them. Someone have the balls to show me I'm wrong on the mountain.
 
There are plenty of people selling stuff for snowmobiles that's basically snake oil. Tony isn't one of them. He sells quality stuff - a lot of it entirely his own design and custom manufactured - and if someone's complained here about something he's sold, I can't think of when. What's more, he's shared details on fairly cheap mods (like the Doo thermostat upgrade) that he could have kept a secret and sold as a kit for 5x the price. Burandt's sleds may be set up as well as one prepped by TRS or IndyDan, but that's a very high bar; even if Burandt can match them, one person's opinion that "the gap isn't that big" does nothing to prove that custom clutch work is snake oil. Especially when the opinion comes from someone who admittedly doesn't care about clutching.

I get it - there are people who are great riders and so-so mechanics, and people whose talents are more mechanical than in riding (I fall in the latter). But let's give you the benefit of the doubt, @Chadly, and say you're a great rider and don't care about the mechanicals as long as it works. If that's the case, threads like this may be a great opportunity to keep your words to yourself. I mean, I'll give you some credit for standing by an unpopular opinion. I just hope you realize you come off like a rich kid driving a sports car on all-season tires because the ones the pros recommend are "trinkets." Let me know if you come out to ride with @TRS (been wanting to get my butt kicked by him for a while), or want to ride in the Gallitan/Cooke/Beartooth area. Maybe it's just curiosity, but I'll ride with anyone at least once, including you @Chadly. I'm just a keyboard warrior who rides like crap and spends way too much time tinkering on my sled. That sled is ten years old and still working great, thank you very much: funny how all the money I've wasted on trinkets over the years wouldn't be enough to sell the Pro and upgrade to an AXYS, but it keeps my old junk going. I think you'd find me too laid back and never ride with me again, but who knows. If you are as good as you claim, pay it forward. I've met some great riders who were happy to ride with anyone who'd be a team player, but the best riders I've personally met were always the ones who let their riding do the talking.
 
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Tony, can you comment on torque arms and how they relate to c-c, torque and belt alignment. They have been popular, especially on Polaris, for a long time. They come a standard part on most SLP stage tuned kits. From my understanding they can cause more harm than good if not installed properly to allow the lead in to work properly.
 
Tony, can you comment on torque arms and how they relate to c-c, torque and belt alignment. They have been popular, especially on Polaris, for a long time. They come a standard part on most SLP stage tuned kits. From my understanding they can cause more harm than good if not installed properly to allow the lead in to work properly.


I am not a believer in torque arms unless you get your leadin within spec. When you get your leadin to .010-.020” I’m all in on insalling a torque arm.
To do this correctly you must use an alignment bar that doesn’t have leadin built in. The TRS bar has zero leadin.
To explain leadin in a nutshell. You shim the front of your secondary to the alignment bar. The gap between the bar and the back of your secondary is leadin.
If you install a torque arm with .120” of leadin, it will stay there through your shift cycles. Belt life will shorten, cords will pull and you will witness excessive clutch and belt heat. If you run a carbon belt, the internal carbon cords will break, carbon cannot withstand much miss alignment.
Without a torque arm. The engine works to get back to its “at rest” neutral position. When you hit the throttle from a dead stop, the engine will twist under torque. Once your clutches start to shift the torque on the mounts drops and the engine will move back to its neutral state. In this case it has .120” of leadin. That is very inefficient and hard on CVT components.
A CVT system is very inefficient. But it is a must have in regards to power transfer in snowmobiling. When your setup has to much leadin along with/or incorrect offset the system scrubs on your belt robbing efficiency further.
Clutch and belt heat is a red flag here.
We all know about rolling resistance, keep that in mind when thinking about your CVT system.
I could go into the affect high rate secondary springs have on efficiencies and torque on mounts, but that’s for another day.
 
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So you have to adjust the torque arm with a little slop in it at idle? So when (if you have correct lead in)the engine is not under load the torque arm does nothing, but when you accelerate (max torque) the arm prevents the engine from torquing past the lead in, which is 100% parallelism between crankshaft and jackshaft?
 
So you have to adjust the torque arm with a little slop in it at idle? So when (if you have correct lead in)the engine is not under load the torque arm does nothing, but when you accelerate (max torque) the arm prevents the engine from torquing past the lead in, which is 100% parallelism between crankshaft and jackshaft?

100% correct
Thanks Rich I missed that.
 
I know the polaris alignment bars have a lead in as you call it from 0.030" to 0.060"
So your alignment bar is 2 parallel ligns with no alignment offset as polaris calls it?

The TRS Alignment bar has proper offset and zero leadin built in.
The Polaris bar, has gone through a transition. I did a thread on the progression and reversals Polaris has done over the years with the same bar.

Did Polaris build in their own income stream, through belt sales, with misaligning clutches.
Huge margin in OEM belts.
 
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