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I've put 3 backwoods bumpers on my 3 matryx sleds. All of them touched the pipe. The best fix I found was shim the pipe support bumper with the provided washers AND take a rubber mallet gently to the pipe shield and flatten it along the edge that is closet to the bumper. That's works best and is cleaner. On my boost I double up on the y pipe springs but that was for a different reason.Same thing for me ! I did take a hammer and lower the shield with small hit. I hope thiss will solve my problem. Ive been chasing this all season ans guess what, ive put that bumper and never think about the fact an aftermarket bumper can maybe give me a headache
This is what i did. I massage with a rubber mallet the shield so it clear the bumper. ANd gues what guys !! I find my problem. Dont ask me why but ive put my old belt and test it for 30min and it never happen again, full rpm on every pullI've put 3 backwoods bumpers on my 3 matryx sleds. All of them touched the pipe. The best fix I found was shim the pipe support bumper with the provided washers AND take a rubber mallet gently to the pipe shield and flatten it along the edge that is closet to the bumper. That's works best and is cleaner. On my boost I double up on the y pipe springs but that was for a different reason.
Have you measured the widths of both the new belt and old belt? I know one of the clutch shop guys mentioned they have ben noticing quite the variation between even new oem belts. Second question. What is your belt to sheeve clearance on either belt? Are your clutches properly aligned? That could also have an effect on engagement at least and performance.Have you guys ever experience a oem belt 3211216 did something like that ? I did do alot of pull without a single rpm loss with old belt, but i wonder if its because the belt didint have time to get as much heat in 20-25min as the other one that i rode for an hour.
Thanks for reply ! I always put the hollow of the belt notch flush with the top sheves of the secondary. I know polaris used a straight edge and mesure 1"-1/4 deflection. No i didint take the caliper to mesure widths of both belt ! But i will take the time tomorrow and give you a proper anwser. I did a leak down test tonight and have ~ 2% on both cyl " cold engine ". So i don't think its the engine that cause me that problem. I have never play with washer behind secondary clutch and i have not chek aligment because i don't have the tool.Have you measured the widths of both the new belt and old belt? I know one of the clutch shop guys mentioned they have ben noticing quite the variation between even new oem belts. Second question. What is your belt to sheeve clearance on either belt? Are your clutches properly aligned? That could also have an effect on engagement at least and performance.
Highly recommend doing the clutch alignment. You can get the alignment bar tool from TRS. I've done 3 and they are all way out of alignment. Same with the primary belt to sheeve swimming (P-85 clutches).Thanks for reply ! I always put the hollow of the belt notch flush with the top sheves of the secondary. I know polaris used a straight edge and mesure 1"-1/4 deflection. No i didint take the caliper to mesure widths of both belt ! But i will take the time tomorrow and give you a proper anwser. I did a leak down test tonight and have ~ 2% on both cyl " cold engine ". So i don't think its the engine that cause me that problem. I have never play with washer behind secondary clutch and i have not chek aligment because i don't have the tool.
Does a bad alignment can do rpm loss ? I order the tool but im curious. Whats strange is that its always after sled run for a while. At the begin of the day sled always run fine, but the more it run, the more the problem is there. Like if belt have more heat or stretch.Highly recommend doing the clutch alignment. You can get the alignment bar tool from TRS. I've done 3 and they are all way out of alignment. Same with the primary belt to sheeve swimming (P-85 clutches).
Improper alignment = higher belt temps, shorter belt life and lower performance through wasted power. Also, BTW the tool itself just allows you to alight the clutchs. You also need a jackshaft shim kit to make any adjustments needed.Does a bad alignment can do rpm loss ? I order the tool but im curious. Whats strange is that its always after sled run for a while. At the begin of the day sled always run fine, but the more it run, the more the problem is there. Like if belt have more heat or stretch.
Yes i order bothImproper alignment = higher belt temps, shorter belt life and lower performance through wasted power. Also, BTW the tool itself just allows you to alight the clutchs. You also need a jackshaft shim kit to make any adjustments needed.
That is a poor way to set belt deflection. Grab the belt where it wraps around the primary clutch and lift it up and down to see if it moves. If it seems tight it wont move and if its loose it will move. It should be adjusted just so you can feel it moving about 3/16". Too tight and the belt will squeal and drag. Too loose and it will start out in a higher gear. You should be as tight as possible without it dragging and squealing.Thanks for reply ! I always put the hollow of the belt notch flush with the top sheves of the secondary. I know polaris used a straight edge and mesure 1"-1/4 deflection. No i didint take the caliper to mesure widths of both belt ! But i will take the time tomorrow and give you a proper anwser. I did a leak down test tonight and have ~ 2% on both cyl " cold engine ". So i don't think its the engine that cause me that problem. I have never play with washer behind secondary clutch and i have not chek aligment because i don't have the tool.
This is good way ?That is a poor way to set belt deflection. Grab the belt where it wraps around the primary clutch and lift it up and down to see if it moves. If it seems tight it wont move and if its loose it will move. It should be adjusted just so you can feel it moving about 3/16". Too tight and the belt will squeal and drag. Too loose and it will start out in a higher gear. You should be as tight as possible without it dragging and squealing.
Sure but your really need to get the feel for it without extra tools, if you want to adjust it in the backcountry. What if your belt blows, how are you going to adjust the replacement properly?This is good way ?
Like ive say i aways do like the bottom of the notch flush with top sheves. I maybe did found why i had rpm problem and why the more the day goes by the more it was bad. I had put a plastic pieces on my left foot vent because i had problem with belt slipping before. And i think because i put that the heat was stuck in the cab and clutch and belt were too hot. So belt was too grippy and start loosing rpm.. does it make sense ?Sure but your really need to get the feel for it without extra tools, if you want to adjust it in the backcountry. What if your belt blows, how are you going to adjust the replacement properly?
Your method is a good place to start but not all belts are exactly equal dimensions new and certainly not when worn. They need tightening up as they wear.Like ive say i aways do like the bottom of the notch flush with top sheves. I maybe did found why i had rpm problem and why the more the day goes by the more it was bad. I had put a plastic pieces on my left foot vent because i had problem with belt slipping before. And i think because i put that the heat was stuck in the cab and clutch and belt were too hot. So belt was too grippy and start loosing problem... does it make sense ?