Nothing beats the Woody's spring pullers, I have both lengths. Get the original Woody's ones not the copys.
TRS boost power valve
- Thread starter madmax
- Start date
It’s worth the effort to double them up.
There are multiple ways to get them installed, see what works for you.
You can push the spring instead of pulling it to get it installed. This depends on the puller design you have.
You can come in from behind the can when you have the side panel and console removed. You may have to remove the can, that depends on the can you have installed.
You can also use the bulkhead for leverage as an option as well.
There are multiple ways to get them installed, see what works for you.
You can push the spring instead of pulling it to get it installed. This depends on the puller design you have.
You can come in from behind the can when you have the side panel and console removed. You may have to remove the can, that depends on the can you have installed.
You can also use the bulkhead for leverage as an option as well.
Springs are the only way to go
Can you please explain why.
Never tried wiring pipe solid or know anyone who has. The motor moves around constantly it has rubber mounts if the pipe was mounted to the motor without being able to flex in my mind something is eventually going to break or crack
I do the same exact thing.
positive pressure, if that donut seal wears at all then something like safety wire would then be useless, a spring keeps pressure on the joint. it also allows for some flex
Agree, but the safety wire loop/s would be in addition to the single original spring. Also the idea would be that the wire wouldn't overpower the spring so there wouldn't be flex, it would only supplement so the spring so the exhaust couldn't push the pipe away from sealing.
well you want it to be able to flex a little while still keeping its seal, the engine twists in the chassis some under load. and with that movement the safety wire twists would likely start to unravel rendering it useless. Having spent time in the Air Force, ive done my share of safety wiring.
the big thing is heat. those polaris springs at the manifold are heat treated. if you try other ones that aren't heat treated they won't last a day. my experience anyway.
Yep, I have many stretched gold springs around from the boondocker Axys days before I solely starting using the silver heat treated ones.
As for getting them installed, it just takes patience, and understanding its going to be a 1 hour frustrating job. I learnt that from the Bonndocker Axys days too. Just wear some gloves and muscle them on. Once you get the bottom one done(do first; the first one makes the others tougher), the other 2 are easy.
So you're confirming it's best use the black springs, not the silver ones, eh?
A big reason in this application is thermal expansion( along with vibration and chassis movement). Once the system heats up it will expand, stress the safety wire and stretch it. Once it cools it will be looser and less effective than the initial install.
ya the gold or silver lose tension being close to high heat. they work well for a pipe to can connection or mounting but not the y pipe temps.
Finally got on the snow. The TRS valve is the real deal.
If you put the doo g5 as 100% and a stock boost at 0 I’d say this gets you 50% there, maybe more.
FWIW my sled is still on break-in.
If you put the doo g5 as 100% and a stock boost at 0 I’d say this gets you 50% there, maybe more.
FWIW my sled is still on break-in.
Just finished my install. Other than the bottom exhaust spring it was just less than 1hr. Hopefully I can get out tomorrow and test it out. 
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