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The Brake stop ride, What is the real issue

Just for those interested.
I worked on this all morning. Re-shimmed the caliper .015” that made the outboard pad drag.
As I mentioned the inboard piston doesn’t retract at all on mine as the outboard does.
I removed the caliper and pulled the piston on the inboard side. The square o ring that is to retract the piston looks intact. I removed it cleaned it and reinstalled. I’ll see if that changed anything. It’s a head scratcher.
 
I can't speak for you trail riders but there is always snow built up around the QD pulley when I ride. That has to help cool the belt from the rotor heat. I bet only the guys bashing trails who caulked up the hole in their tunnel, custom cut a piece of plastic around their can tip to keep all the snow that was getting by out which caused their clutch to miss align by .000067" and don't forget ⅛" of ice built up made them to get stuck on the trail! ??‍♂️?

Come on Rusty, weigh in with your keyboard expertise and tell us if this isn't quite possibly the reason behind the whole stop ride.
You weren't this entertaining in the YouTube video I saw you in....ha
 
Thanks TRS. Only other thing I could see "{working}" would be pulling fluid out of the system and trying to estimate a "just good enough bleed" where the pads settle far enough away from the rotor to not be rubbing. This fix is obviously as ghetto as they come.

Do any other brakes fit?
 
so what are the major brake differences on the trail matryx sleds that are not affected by the recall and are being delivered?
can't be that much different
 
Different master cylinders from Hayes.
i don't think that is it. they do have different part numbers, but I just looked at all the component part numbers line by line. the only part different was the brake light switch ??‍♂️
 
There was already a de-tune in place in your snowmobile you just didn't know it. There is one in your side-by-side and there is one in your diesel pickup and there is one in the car you drive. The one in your snowmobile just wasn't set sensitive enough and wasn't coming on quick enough to stop the brake from overheating - with a reflash now it will be. I assume there is a fine line between detuning it just enough to not overheat the brake and detuning it so much that it causes a bog. If power is cut while you are actually braking are you really going to notice? You don't in your car or side by side because you don't ride the brake and hit the gas at the same time. The only people that are actually going to notice are the people who don't just have their finger on the brake lever at all times ( I do ) but are applying slight pressure to the brake all the time. If you are one that your brake light is on at all times this is going to be a problem for you. For the rest of us we're never going to notice it.
 
There was already a de-tune in place in your snowmobile you just didn't know it. There is one in your side-by-side and there is one in your diesel pickup and there is one in the car you drive. The one in your snowmobile just wasn't set sensitive enough and wasn't coming on quick enough to stop the brake from overheating - with a reflash now it will be. I assume there is a fine line between detuning it just enough to not overheat the brake and detuning it so much that it causes a bog. If power is cut while you are actually braking are you really going to notice? You don't in your car or side by side because you don't ride the brake and hit the gas at the same time. The only people that are actually going to notice are the people who don't just have their finger on the brake lever at all times ( I do ) but are applying slight pressure to the brake all the time. If you are one that your brake light is on at all times this is going to be a problem for you. For the rest of us we're never going to notice it.
My Ferraris and Lamborghini definitely don't detune the car when you apply the brakes ?
 
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