P
provoyager
Member
Is your gauge the standard or the 7s?
Stop Ride Brake Fix - anyone ridden a sled with the update yet?
- Thread starter roostertech
- Start date
It's the 7S display and it never had any issues at all until they touched it. And the CEL didn't affect performance at all... just the annoying light on the dash.
I'm just hoping these things get resolved... it's certainly ridable but just really annoying to have a fuel gauge that is useless and have the gauges not work intermittently.
13 years on Polaris sleds and this is the first one to give me problems since my 2007 IQ 600 blew a piston over a decade ago.
Mine went maximum det and limp mode.
Unridable after a halfazz reflash without relearns.
Might have to browbeat the dealer a little.
Ruined an epic day.
make sure they relearn your power valves, still not sure how thats connected to my brake but im no engineer
SMF is correct. Some sleds will be affected and run horribly and sound horrible. Some won’t.
What does the whole 'relearn the powervalves' entail and what problems will I see if it wasn't done? If I mention this to the dealer, will they know what I'm talking about?
Last edited:
69!!!?
Nice!
I just got back from picking up my sled from the dealer and they fixed all of the issues. You guys were spot on re: the relearn function. They completed the relearn and that fixed the EV Actuator Check Failure code. They also seemed to solve the input connection issue as well. They unplugged all connections, cleaned and resecured. Hopefully that solves it. If not, there is a Polaris case # to replace the 7S Display if necessary. Lastly, they also fixed the fuel gauge issue. They pulled the assembly from the tank and found that it was hung up and not operating freely. All seems to be good...just hoping the 7S Display issues don't pop back up again. Polaris admitted that the connections quite often fixes the problem but some it has been due to a bad display and it's on backorder at the moment. Snow is coming and I'm heading up tomorrow for a couple days so I'll be able to give it a thorough test.
After doing the updates, my check engine light would show on the display occasionally while technical riding in deep snow. No other warnings or codes would show up. And no limp mode.
The light would go off when I’d turn off the sled and display. I’m guessing it’s because I ride with a finger on the brake at all times. I think I need to disconnect the brake light/cable.
How and where do you disconnect the brake light?
The light would go off when I’d turn off the sled and display. I’m guessing it’s because I ride with a finger on the brake at all times. I think I need to disconnect the brake light/cable.
How and where do you disconnect the brake light?
Three options:
- Follow the brake light wire 4 or 5 inches down from the master cylinder, there's an inline plug behind the cable sheathing.
- That same wire runs into the connector bag located above the clutch cover, can unplug it there.
- Pull the brake light fuse in the load center under the hood.
I've triggered the limp mode several times now. It's annoying at least, and could cause serious problems at the wrong moment.
Mechanically, my brakes are fine. The pads don't bind and the jackshaft rotates with minimal drag. I have a fair amount of movement in the lever before it engages the brake.
The problem for me is in the switch. There's no room to spare - as soon as I touch the lever, the switch disengages. This happens well before the brake engages.
I'm looking into modding the switch itself. If anyone has a solution already worked out, please share. I've been riding with the wires disconnected but I'm sure my riding partners would appreciate seeing my brake light.
Mechanically, my brakes are fine. The pads don't bind and the jackshaft rotates with minimal drag. I have a fair amount of movement in the lever before it engages the brake.
The problem for me is in the switch. There's no room to spare - as soon as I touch the lever, the switch disengages. This happens well before the brake engages.
I'm looking into modding the switch itself. If anyone has a solution already worked out, please share. I've been riding with the wires disconnected but I'm sure my riding partners would appreciate seeing my brake light.
This wasn’t an issue for me until riding deep powder on a cold day. I was having icing issues not allowing the brake lever to return 100% to its rest position. Hadn’t been an issue prior to those conditions but it’s a problem in that scenario for myself. Going to look at a few options.
grind down your lever some, i did mine and no issues
The lever already has play, no need to grind it further. The problem is the switch.
Rode one of the deepest days in years. Below 0 second half of the day.
Burnt 17 gallons of gas. Never had the brake shut me down. Ride with finger on lever from sled deck till its loaded again. My sled has a super touchy lever too.
I will say thr 23 mapping definstely cleans up thr boost runability??
Burnt 17 gallons of gas. Never had the brake shut me down. Ride with finger on lever from sled deck till its loaded again. My sled has a super touchy lever too.
I will say thr 23 mapping definstely cleans up thr boost runability??
Had mine out on a 4-day trip to Crooked Creek and had the break fault go off once on my sled. Didn't realize I was riding the break with my finger enough to actuate it. Slide went into limp mode. Pulled over, shut it off, started it back up was good to go....
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
