my biggest problem is I have the brake sensor ice up on big/long pow days and get stuck "on", I will literally not even be touching the lever and the sled thinks the brake is on. I just unplugged the sensor to solve the problem, too much hassle to constantly be chipping ice away. I will plug is back in for low snow/spring days. This is a bad "fix" in my opinion.
Stop Ride Brake Fix - anyone ridden a sled with the update yet?
- Thread starter roostertech
- Start date
Limp mode came on multiple times on my new 9R. I let another guy hop on it and he had same issue as well. I had to unplug the brake light switch at the handle bars and have had no issues since.
You are part of the reason of this whole thing haha I ride with my finger on the brake. It never happens to me. You ride holding the brake. That is not what you are supposed to do!
you must be the best rider i have ever seen ha ha
Chadly you no read so good. Like virtually ALL of us I ride with my finger ON the brake not HOLDING the brake. Once you get out and ride with this new reflash you are going to find it takes very little to trigger limp mode. Just a little bit of ice/snow buildup around your brake lever and it will trigger, just the lighest extra pressure and it will trigger, dragging the brake just a smidge too long to check forward progress and it will trigger. Will someone who knows electrical come up with a jumper that can bypass the sensor and still allow the brake light to come on please? There has to be a way.
Keep riding them trails bro! ?? I was the first one on here that posted about riding with the fix. I have had zero issues and my sleds spend half the day upside down in the snow.
Holding the brake and throttle for 4 seconds is stupid! That will absolutely wreak havoc on any sleds brake system.
U can let off the throttle for a fraction of that time with better results.
I guess u guys don't remember all the sleds that have burned down due to brake fires in the last 30+yrs.
To squeeze the brake and throttle at the same time to check forward progress?
I really need that one explained in dum dum terms, please.
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U can let off the throttle for a fraction of that time with better results.
I guess u guys don't remember all the sleds that have burned down due to brake fires in the last 30+yrs.
To squeeze the brake and throttle at the same time to check forward progress?
I really need that one explained in dum dum terms, please.
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I don’t have the update yet. Last weekend while not riding, I was trying to imagine 4 or 5 seconds of brake and throttle at the same time. It is actually quite a bit of time, especially if you’re being aggressive on the throttle actually riding.
Slower riding on/off the throttle it’s a little easier to do. But still, it’s not easy to do. It is easy on a long downhill modulating brake and throttle but not simultaneously. I do ride with a finger on there but I never saw the light, when not riding, unless I actually wanted to.
Here’s to hoping the flash doesn’t annoy me. [emoji481]
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Actually I was very surprised to realize just how short 4 seconds is when you are riding. And the lever is super touchy (at least mine is). It takes very little pressure to trigger the light. A bit of snow buildup between the brake lever and the plunger makes it even more sensitive.
In dum dum terms for summ8rmk - the reason for applying both at the same time - best explained by someone better than me - but the basic reasoning is you want to keep the r's up to keep your clutches engaged but at the same time you want to slow your forward progress. It makes for a much smoother, more controlled ride in tight terrain. I do it alot and I've ridden with quite a few professional riders who also use that technique. Someone mentioned earlier - it's what Burandt ( and others) taught us to do. For good or for ill, it works. I don't spend 1/2 my day upside down like Chadly does!
In dum dum terms for summ8rmk - the reason for applying both at the same time - best explained by someone better than me - but the basic reasoning is you want to keep the r's up to keep your clutches engaged but at the same time you want to slow your forward progress. It makes for a much smoother, more controlled ride in tight terrain. I do it alot and I've ridden with quite a few professional riders who also use that technique. Someone mentioned earlier - it's what Burandt ( and others) taught us to do. For good or for ill, it works. I don't spend 1/2 my day upside down like Chadly does!
I understand brake / throttle control.
U absolutely don't ever need to hold the brake for seconds, it's a tap or hard quick squeeze. Anything more than that, ur really better off to let off the throttle. Ur really just trying to control the direction of sled when doing that, mostly, bring the nose down.
I need someone to explain, "To squeeze the brake and throttle at the same time to check forward progress"
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U absolutely don't ever need to hold the brake for seconds, it's a tap or hard quick squeeze. Anything more than that, ur really better off to let off the throttle. Ur really just trying to control the direction of sled when doing that, mostly, bring the nose down.
I need someone to explain, "To squeeze the brake and throttle at the same time to check forward progress"
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P
provoyager
Member
My sled is going in tomorrow for the brake flash, is the EV problem just on the 9r and boost? I have an 850 NA with the standard gauge.
They should do a ev relearn on the 850 as well.
P
provoyager
Member
Ok, I dropped my sled off for the recall and then the dealership calls and says "Hey you are good to go, but your sled is missing 1 recall on the fuel filter sock." I told them that I thought that was just for the boosted sleds as mine is a NA 850., anyway I pick up my sled and on the paperwork it says 2022 boost recall. My question is, is it possible for the dealership to flash it wrong or does the tool know it is an na sled and flash it correctly?
They can't flash it wrong. You are fine.
So I got my 2022 Khaos Matryx Slash 155 back 2 weeks ago for the brake overheating reflash and I had all of the other recalls done back in October. I hadn't been able to ride until this weekend and I had a few things go wrong. 1. I'm getting a check engine light for P3036: EV Actuator Check Failure. 2. My gauge now occasionally loses connection and gets no reading from any of the inputs. This happens when I turn off the sled by the kill switch and keep the sled on and then restart it... not all the time, but quite often. It also happened a couple of times just while riding. 3. My fuel gauge is now completely off. It was really accurate last year and the other day I filled the tank and it said 60%, then it bounced around down to 50 to 55, back down to 4-45 then low fuel warning... just all over the place. I got back and it took just over 5 gallons to fill and it still showed 60% again. 4. It ran hot at first. It's always run really cool, like 100-110ish under the conditions. It was hardpack trails but I had scratchers on and it go pretty darn hot and had to stop to let it cool down. It eventually ran cooler but still not back to where it was all last year.
I dropped it off at the dealer Monday morning and I should have it back by Friday as long as it doesn't need any parts that are on backorder. Haven't heard otherwise yet so hoping they get it figured out.
JP
I dropped it off at the dealer Monday morning and I should have it back by Friday as long as it doesn't need any parts that are on backorder. Haven't heard otherwise yet so hoping they get it figured out.
JP
Welcome to being a Polaris owner!
Fyi after getting my sled flashed again and having them relearn both the wastegate and EV solenoids.
Runs perfect.
Runs perfect.
P
provoyager
Member
This is what I'm afraid of. I asked the dealer about the exhaust valve re-learn but they didn't know anything about it. Did you have problems right as the valves opened? I have a trip this weekend so a 3 hour drive to have it not run correctly is not cool.
The CEL and the code don't affect performance. It's an annoyance is all.
