Snow Eliminators vs. Better boards
- Thread starter spyguy109
- Start date
check out feethookers. they are the BEST performing board and the BEST value for your dollar! available in red, balck or white with mounting hardware included for $150 shipped to your door (in the lower 48)
installed:
custom colors:
installed:
custom colors:
J
Jkinzer
Well-known member
meahookers has some cool new coating options as posted in the last picture there, but the tried in true BETTER BOARDS are the only way to go in my opinion. guaranteed the best thing out there right now, i wouldnt even consider owning a sled with out better boards on it before i ever rode it. hands down the best mod a guy can do to his sled
I went threw this same debate over this summer. I settled on better boards, ordered them last week. I'll post photos when I get them and install.
PM sent.check out feethookers. they are the BEST performing board and the BEST value for your dollar! available in red, balck or white with mounting hardware included for $150 shipped to your door (in the lower 48)
installed:
custom colors:
snow
snow eliminators work well
snow eliminators work well
S
stopdropanroll
Active member
I like my WRP boards, at least they look good. I have not got to try them out yet.
Better Boards all the way. Went on first ride with them on today and loved them + you cant beat the f bomb far as service and answering questions goes.
Made my own;
Plastic - UHMW
Plastic - UHMW
Running board porting
I know you aren't near colorado, but to the others in and around colorado. Get qreiff on snowest to port them, he's in the denver metro area.
I know you aren't near colorado, but to the others in and around colorado. Get qreiff on snowest to port them, he's in the denver metro area.
boards
longtrack 156 those boards look great.....what did you cut them with? I would like to make some like yours, I have snoweliminators but most of the rungs are broken out and I had to cover them in 1/16' plastic sheet to keep the ice from building up on them
longtrack 156 those boards look great.....what did you cut them with? I would like to make some like yours, I have snoweliminators but most of the rungs are broken out and I had to cover them in 1/16' plastic sheet to keep the ice from building up on them
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boards
another thing to think about when adding boards is that the serrated grips that are between the holes , boot grips, are about 1/2" or so higher than the stock board floor so when standing you will be higher in relation to the bars, I had to raise my bars after adding the eliminators or my back would be slightly bent when standing, more than I could tolerate.
another thing to think about when adding boards is that the serrated grips that are between the holes , boot grips, are about 1/2" or so higher than the stock board floor so when standing you will be higher in relation to the bars, I had to raise my bars after adding the eliminators or my back would be slightly bent when standing, more than I could tolerate.
This was a selling point for me so I went TUFF boards. They are over 3mm thick so I hope they'll make good strong boards.
Originally wanted F-bombs for his no-snow-stick coating, but didn't find any of his that attached to the tunnel side as well, so TUFF boards for me it is.
RS
Does anyone know if there is a website for Feethookers?
I made them out of 3/8" UHMW. Attached them with 6/32 flathead screws with nylock nuts for traction, works well.
The boards were cut out with a router using a plywood template.
The original aluminum had holes cut undersize, then when the UHMW was bolted in place the router was used to clean up the aluminum, very clean.
I also had to raise my handlebars a bit more because of the added thickness.
just finished up installing the better board set. Quick and easy install, used a plamsa cutter to cut them out ruffly then grinded it back some allowed me to get them pretty much flush. Luckily I was able to borrow a pneumatic rivet gun or I would have been hating life.
Here are some pics of the boards
I tried to leave as much metal as possible (probably didn't need to) but it makes it look a little sloppy from some angles. I'm going to go back in with a file at a later date and clean em up.
The only thing I found was odd is I couldn't get the "nut" notch, to line up if I wanted to tunnel marks to line up as well..
I tried to leave as much metal as possible (probably didn't need to) but it makes it look a little sloppy from some angles. I'm going to go back in with a file at a later date and clean em up.
The only thing I found was odd is I couldn't get the "nut" notch, to line up if I wanted to tunnel marks to line up as well..
