Haha yeah I do need to work on that oneThe only Issues I see with this kit is hanging on after install. Well that was the only thing I saw the owners had was hanging on.
Problem with Silber turbo kit thread number 2.
- Thread starter Sunvang
- Start date
J
jeepin270
Well-known member
J
JSCC
Well-known member
Mine does the same thing at 9000', and above 8lbs boost. The mapping sucks and something will have to be done about it. Its hard to use green to tune a nice slow cruise and then try and tune a fast cruise as well. We need a mid range jetting setting. It seems that at elevation if you keep it under 8lbs of boost you stay above the lean spot most of the time. Once you start trying to get above that and spending more time in the mid range there are more issues.
I am not sure why yours does it at such low altitude. That will be an answer for Justin to solve. Just a FYI, I hit mine on average 12 times a ride.....
J
jeepin270
Well-known member
Mine does the same thing at 9000', and above 8lbs boost. The mapping sucks and something will have to be done about it. Its hard to use green to tune a nice slow cruise and then try and tune a fast cruise as well. We need a mid range jetting setting. It seems that at elevation if you keep it under 8lbs of boost you stay above the lean spot most of the time. Once you start trying to get above that and spending more time in the mid range there are more issues.
I am not sure why yours does it at such low altitude. That will be an answer for Justin to solve. Just a FYI, I hit mine on average 12 times a ride.....
Maybe... U need a differant flash for your box. The first box Justin sent me, I could turn green mode and yellow mode all the way up. Maxed out! It made. O differance in the way my sled ran. He sent me two boxes that did the same thing. Finally, a year later, he came up with a differant flash for my box. One that worked, well. In the process I burned down two topends. After he sent me the new flashed box, he was pretty much done helping me. Wouldn't even sell me updated parts for my kit. I had to lean on other kit builders "boondocker & hm turbos". I warned him that I was gonna spread bad news, he obviously didn't care....
After running my kit on the pro for a few weeks now i'll say one thing, you need good fuel, ie 100% av gas is the minimum octane required. Yes you can run less boost and play around with blending ect ect...but you put 10 psi on the motor and run 100% 112 octane race fuel it runs perfect with zero det lights anywhere, good egt and good af ratio.
Yes I know pump gas blend, cheap fuel, ect ect ect but IMHO if you want 200+ hp out of this 800cc polaris motor you don't gamble with the fuel.
Yes I know pump gas blend, cheap fuel, ect ect ect but IMHO if you want 200+ hp out of this 800cc polaris motor you don't gamble with the fuel.
yup, I gotta agree with you on that one, its sometimes a hard pill to swallow on the fuel issue with any motor.
I think for a pump gas deal you need to drop boost to the minimum level first,(2-3 lb) put your choice of fuel in the tank and then creep up on boost till you see the first sign of the det light and then go 1/2 pound less and leave it.
Think about this as well, my friend runs the slp stage 4 kit, normally asperated, and even with that at stock compression till it was dialed in he hit the det light with 91 in the tank at 6000 feet, so now add boost ??????
I'm going to say one other thing about motors in general from 25 years of building them for every type of motorsport:
The number 1 killer of correctly assembled engines with proper parts is detonation caused by people running poor fuel. Yeah it sucks, yeah its a pain yeah its expensive but bottom line is just run good fuel in your boosted motor or leave the turbo in the box on the shelf. I cannot begin to tell you how many good motors i've seen melted to the wrist pin due to this one issue, the one that comes to mind most is the ol "we were on our trip and ran out of race gas so I tried to mix in some pump fuel and just not get on it and my motor broke" good for buisness, bad for engines. or the "guy said pump gas was Ok to run at 20 psi so I bought it"
I dont care what the seller says, I dont care about your friends motor,I dont care about how the box is not working right ect ect ect The only FACT is that in order for the motor to run somewhat safe the DET light should NEVER go off. Look hyperutectic cast pistons (ie ours) cannot take any detonation for any lenght of time, they flat suck. They fracture,they break skirts off ect ect. Look at any normal turbo piston for a race motor, forged,top ring moved down 3/8 inch,piston deck .250 thick or more, wrist pin .250 wall tool steel...fact is you cant make them strong enough. And we are using our little thin light cast piston and having det light go off ??? ummmm just not a good thing.
I think for a pump gas deal you need to drop boost to the minimum level first,(2-3 lb) put your choice of fuel in the tank and then creep up on boost till you see the first sign of the det light and then go 1/2 pound less and leave it.
Think about this as well, my friend runs the slp stage 4 kit, normally asperated, and even with that at stock compression till it was dialed in he hit the det light with 91 in the tank at 6000 feet, so now add boost ??????
I'm going to say one other thing about motors in general from 25 years of building them for every type of motorsport:
The number 1 killer of correctly assembled engines with proper parts is detonation caused by people running poor fuel. Yeah it sucks, yeah its a pain yeah its expensive but bottom line is just run good fuel in your boosted motor or leave the turbo in the box on the shelf. I cannot begin to tell you how many good motors i've seen melted to the wrist pin due to this one issue, the one that comes to mind most is the ol "we were on our trip and ran out of race gas so I tried to mix in some pump fuel and just not get on it and my motor broke" good for buisness, bad for engines. or the "guy said pump gas was Ok to run at 20 psi so I bought it"
I dont care what the seller says, I dont care about your friends motor,I dont care about how the box is not working right ect ect ect The only FACT is that in order for the motor to run somewhat safe the DET light should NEVER go off. Look hyperutectic cast pistons (ie ours) cannot take any detonation for any lenght of time, they flat suck. They fracture,they break skirts off ect ect. Look at any normal turbo piston for a race motor, forged,top ring moved down 3/8 inch,piston deck .250 thick or more, wrist pin .250 wall tool steel...fact is you cant make them strong enough. And we are using our little thin light cast piston and having det light go off ??? ummmm just not a good thing.
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Im almost 95% sure that fuel isnt the issue here! Tried running my sled on pure Sunoco 109 GT+ the other day, didnt do squat with the dET problems. But when i adjusted the yellow up, and blue yellow down, that helped alot. But i still need to get rid of the lean spot, if it's possible. Or else im just going to ride it and try staying out of the lean spot, but thats kinda hard since i mostly ride trees and late night trips.
Im running 98 octane pump gas, but thats in RON so i dont know whats that equal to yours octane rating.
i would agree with you, 109 is good fuel
I have read where our 91-92 r+m/2 fuel is 87 mon. That means Ron is around. 95-96. Remember, mon is what counts. I'm wondering if European fuel has about the same r+m/2 rating that we use? If so, that puts the real number, mon, at an all time low.......
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Just found a fuel test of euro fuel. Same 10 point spread in ron/mon.
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r+m/2 should be around 93.
Mon of 88.
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Mon of 88.
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No not yet, havent had the chance to ride it yet. But in theory it should eliminate the lean part, but im afraid im going to experience alot of boging if i lower it that much?
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J
JSCC
Well-known member
I am running race fuel...
G
goodtogo
Member
Mine has no bogging to speak of i was starting to get frustrated until i did this
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