Problem with Silber turbo kit thread number 2.
- Thread starter Sunvang
- Start date
K
KON
Member
High idling can be low fuel pressure or to little fuel on the low rpm map.. You know when the sled runs out of gas it will idle high before it stops..
I experienced the same on my sled yesterday when my AC/DC regulator passed out and the fuel pump stopped, the rpm icreased before it stopped and the fuel pressure was gone..
It can be the increased plug gap that causes it to happen, that the sparks get to hot..
Boondocker recommends reducing the plug gap to 0.18-0.20..
I experienced the same on my sled yesterday when my AC/DC regulator passed out and the fuel pump stopped, the rpm icreased before it stopped and the fuel pressure was gone..
It can be the increased plug gap that causes it to happen, that the sparks get to hot..
Boondocker recommends reducing the plug gap to 0.18-0.20..
username KON on the Norwegian forum?
Thanks for the tips. But i dont think its to lean, since a/f ratio is the same as before.
Reducing? Hmm maybe I need to try that instead. But it really did help alot on the bogging when I increased the gap, so if i decrease it, wont that get back my bogging issue? :/
K
KON
Member
Yes, that's me.. I'm going to change username here because Kimdoo is a long time ago..
I don't know what gap it is on the sparkplugs out of the box? And maybe it is most critical when you are running racefuel..
If you have a spare set of plugs you can try, maybe gets better and maybe worse..
I don't know what gap it is on the sparkplugs out of the box? And maybe it is most critical when you are running racefuel..
If you have a spare set of plugs you can try, maybe gets better and maybe worse..
K
KON
Member
Okei, Hi!
I changed the injectors, the first thing I noticed was increased rpm's and when I tested it on the mountain it didn't bog.. It wasn't any deep powder to test in but my patience was gone after having the BD kit laying around many weeks waiting for the sled to operate properly in stock condition..
I changed the injectors, the first thing I noticed was increased rpm's and when I tested it on the mountain it didn't bog.. It wasn't any deep powder to test in but my patience was gone after having the BD kit laying around many weeks waiting for the sled to operate properly in stock condition..
warranty?
Will check the billet boot bolt.
K
KON
Member
Yes, got it on warranty.. No I have a blown regulator so that is warranty aswell..
Forgot that theese have the billett boots, Im obviusly to used to mess around with the old outdated stuff
just a few more things to check for high idle.....throttle cable hangin up somewhere,broken reed,butterflys out of adjustment ??? just a few things I thought of to check. (butterflys should be from .002-.003 feeler guage btw,.005 should be a no-go)
On boot bolt, make sure the o'rings are 100% ok and have no bad spots, very very easy to get small tears in them when installing the throttle body and air box. the bolts just need to be loose, the throttle body fits tight enough to hold by itself
I noticed small tears in my orings after the first install replaced them all, carefully pull them out and look over closely.
On boot bolt, make sure the o'rings are 100% ok and have no bad spots, very very easy to get small tears in them when installing the throttle body and air box. the bolts just need to be loose, the throttle body fits tight enough to hold by itself
I noticed small tears in my orings after the first install replaced them all, carefully pull them out and look over closely.
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Thanks for the tips on idle
But what do you mean by butterflys? Not really familiar with what that is. And is there any fast way to check if reed are broken without taking the boot off? What o-rings??? Didnt recive any o-rings to mount with my bolts on my kit? :/
Do you have a part number or despcription of the o rings needed? mine aren't perfect and im wondering if thats causing a high idle..?
They easy to replace?
* i am refering to the o rings on the air box * --> becasue the grease i used to put the air box on to the tb's with is coming through a little bit and can see it on top of the TB's.
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Any tips on the couple bogging i got here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36IH...xt=C3abb08cUDOEgsToPDskIq-Zxy0RLS8pk-peE0hj9d
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36IH...xt=C3abb08cUDOEgsToPDskIq-Zxy0RLS8pk-peE0hj9d
Got a 10 pack from graingers, part number 1kau3, viton oring, 3/16 x 2 1/2 od
yes super easy to replace, just pull the old one out with a pick and stick the new one in the groove with a tad bit of grease. I found all 4 of mine to have slight tears, although I dont think they were leaking.
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Thanks for the tips on idle
What o-rings??? Didnt recive any o-rings to mount with my bolts on my kit? :/
sorry, the throttle blade opening, gently check with a feeler guage,you can adjust the idle screw to move it
no, you have to remove pretty much everything to get to the reeds...
you should have a small rubber oring (washer) to put under the nut on the long bolts.
The other orings are the ones in the airbox and the boot, large red color,they provide the seal and can tear causing a leak.
One last thing, anybody ever experienced this: Got stuck and dugg the sled out, started it and tried to pin the throttle but it wouldnt get on rpms and only burred? Pulled the sled out of the hole and got to riding again, and during a couple meters of driving slow it would work on wot again. This has happend two times and is really annoying!
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