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>>>Official Power Commander V Thread<<< Polaris 800 C.F.I.'s

Roger that! I'll be installing new switch wed afternoon. Im gonna run a conservative map from DTR and customize another more aggressive map (check plugs, piston wash) to see if i cant get sumpn dailed:) Thanks to all for great help and info!
 
I am assuming here but I think you 156 map is just a little richer map than the original 157 map. I would ask Jim himself if you really want to know the finer details. Jim is a great tuning resource for this stuff.

My suggestion is try it out and see how it runs. Don't forget to run good premium fuel.
DTR has different fuel maps for the "update" flash and the January reflash - the "157HP" map is intended for the "update" reflash, the "156HP" map was for the January reflash (post update). The 2 maps are noticeably different, but mostly in the low to midrange. I don't know if he has any full map posted yet for the April reflash, but has mentioned that WOT fuel calibration wasn't changed significantly vs previous maps. As always, there is some variation in how individual sleds respond, so some custom tuning may be needed.
 
I suggest running the DTR map on one position and the SLP map (last year's) on the other position. I think you'll find out which one you like in short order. If you compare the maps in a spreadsheet, you'll get a better feel for the way each one will affect the way your sled will run.
 
Is there any way i can compare two maps by looking at them on the same screen??? this opening one map, closing, opening the other is getting old in a hurry. Thanks
 
Oh Map Compare Where Art Thou

This is crazy but if you were running our PC III fuel controller you could use the map compare feature to compare two maps. You just select the base map then the compare map and the software will show you which cells are diffrent and by how much.

If you are the technical type you could download the free PC III software from our website, then copy and paste your PC V maps into the PC III software and save the maps then compare them. Just remember the PC V has one extra TP column.:face-icon-small-coo
 
Anybody have any thoughts on what to try with the April flash in the 09 800?
Just got a new top end and they reflashed it too. Does anyone know if this flash did anything to the mid range? I was going to load the DTR 157hp map and see what it does and go from there.

Thanks
 
I just installed my PCV 19-007 and Autotune AV100B, I chose this Autotune because I am going to run twin pipes. Right now I am bone stock and installed a bung in the stock pipe and wired the single O'2 into position 1 on the autotune. I loaded the (DTRD810StockStoutnerJan157hpWOT.pvm) map and enabled Autotune in the header. I see one AFR1 displaying 000.0 and when I fire it I have no change. the red light on the autotune blinks for about 30sec. and then goes solid red. I still have nothing but 000.00 in the AFR1 display. So I then wired in the second O'2 and no change on the screen display. I then switched the plugs from one O'2 to the other and no change. I checked the color code from the o'2 harness to the autotune and it is correct. The instructions say that a 000.00 display on the screen is bad wiring from the O'2 to the Autotune. I checked that. My %throttle and RPM are both displaying correctly.I do not know what to check next.
 
Tillbuilt

I believe you sent me an email here at work about this question, but I wanted to post the answer here so others can see.

I believe you need to place a CAN termination resistor into one of the CAN slots. It doesn't matter where you place the resistor (PC V or Autotune) there just needs to be one. Once you have done this I believe you will have AFR reading in the software.:face-icon-small-hap
 
I got with Dyno-Jet and trouble shot the problem and after linking to my PC and the sled we found that the PCV that I have will not communicate with the Autotune and I will have to send back to them. I will update when I get it back. Thanks for the help Dyno-Jet.
 
Anyone still working with the pcv and auto tune?
The two biggest problems when tuning a new sled that I find is hitting all the possible rpm/tp combos that you will need to build a complete map and the crappy temp, baro compensation of the factory ecu.

How about temp input and speed? My speed seems to be dead nuts with the sled readout but the temp is around 5 degrees lower. All using the suggested values in the pcv.
Anyone map out new temp values that they will share?

Lastly has anyone tried out the new in field adjustment with the lcd/pcv combo? I just updated but have not tried it yet.
 
Hey guys I read the whole thread, I bought a 2010 8D from a guy with the PCV 5 on the sled I rode it here in ND and then I took it to Idaho, Island Park. Will this hurt the sled by going from place to place with out changing maps or, is that the efi that takes care of that. Im really new to the efi sleds always had carbs. Might be a stupid question but dont want to wreck anything. Thanks.
 
i have tuning info on cfi4 sleds with slp twins and head work if anyone wants them. also have a PCV with autotune for sale... practicaly new
 
It should not hurt the sled but there are better maps for elevation that will help your sled run better.

Try giving Shawn a call at Mtn Tech Dyno at 208-652-7738 and see what they are running in Ashton ID.
 
I guess I'm a little confused...

So what is the point of tuning to an AFR using the auto tune? If you still have to use trial and error to get the proper AFR using the auto tune, why bother? I could understand if there was a uniform ratio that worked for all rpms but there isn't...

May as well save the cash and tune by percentage with the base module...?
 
I guess I'm a little confused...

So what is the point of tuning to an AFR using the auto tune? If you still have to use trial and error to get the proper AFR using the auto tune, why bother? I could understand if there was a uniform ratio that worked for all rpms but there isn't...

May as well save the cash and tune by percentage with the base module...?

Ditto! I was thinking the exact same thing today. You either start with the map or start with the AFR target tables???

Aaron
 
I guess I'm a little confused...

So what is the point of tuning to an AFR using the auto tune? If you still have to use trial and error to get the proper AFR using the auto tune, why bother? I could understand if there was a uniform ratio that worked for all rpms but there isn't...

May as well save the cash and tune by percentage with the base module...?

The auto tune will hit your targets it's just that there can be an off number in a spot or two. The atune just compensated for a condition like a rapid throttle movement or such. Then you go in and change those.

If you want to tune the pcv with plug and piston readings only the big trick is to know what the throttle percent is so you adjust the right cell in the pcv. Also it's good to know the various tp and rpm combos that you will hit according to your particular riding style and conditions. An lcd display will help a lot but it will still be a huge amount of work/time.
The atune is just easy by comparison.
 
Auto tuned Pro ? 2011 163" SlP Stage 3

Has anyone Auto tuned the
Slp stage 3
5000ft+ head
big air reeds
Map for 9000-12000ft aroud RE area
Have the stock 70-228 map
have second map switch
looking for a good starting point on second map?
thanks Mike
 
Have been playing with my auto tune for about a week now. Can not do any top end tweaks, dont have any snow, but have been playing with the idle-engagment erea and notice that compared to my slp map the auto tune wants to shift the large trims for the lean erea one column over. Yes I calibrated my tps and pcv. This is one advatage of the auto tune. It dials in your sled with your upgrades. The trick is knowing the targets. After getting a subscription to dynotech, I have learned there is not an a/f ratio that is perfect, it depend on the pipe you are running and rpm. A slp pipe likes 12-1 and some of the others they tested liked a leaner condition.
After learning the target for your individual sled you need to talk you dealer into buyin the auto tune and a pipe to rent it out. Made me sick welding the bung on my ceramic coated pipe. now that will cost me $80-100 to get recoated. I will only use auto tune a couple of trips and then pull it off until weather warms and then check my tunes again.
 
The auto tune will hit your targets it's just that there can be an off number in a spot or two. The atune just compensated for a condition like a rapid throttle movement or such. Then you go in and change those.

If you want to tune the pcv with plug and piston readings only the big trick is to know what the throttle percent is so you adjust the right cell in the pcv. Also it's good to know the various tp and rpm combos that you will hit according to your particular riding style and conditions. An lcd display will help a lot but it will still be a huge amount of work/time.
The atune is just easy by comparison.

Good point about throttle position vs rpm thanks. Sounds like the only real benefit of the auto tune... (time savings)

With the auto tune, you still need to tune with plug and piston readings to make sure you have picked the correct AFR, at any given rpm. We need to be able to adjust the timing curve to match the fuel curves. A true auto tune needs to adjust both based on detonation sensing. Who cares about hypothetical AFRs. You could have a perfect air/fuel balance but not make peak power because the timing is off. We should be discussing acceptable detonation levels at peak power.
 
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