MDS ramps thumbs UP

[wellfed777]

pawpaw
you running stock spings ?
thanks

 

[Cascade Addiction]

No...running a Polaris black/green(120/340). I have a 100/340 that I thought about trying but am really impressed with it at the moment that I havn't tried it yet. I almost think it will be too soft in the mid-shift.

 

[allpowersports]

Fat fingers

Sorry did mean to give you thumbs up, but fat fingers and smartphones gave you negative rep! Sorry again!
Thx for a good write up.

MH, Can you fix?

Now see if you can figure out how to get it to run at 7950-8050. At 8150 you lost snort with that setup.

In testing the sleds turned out to be significantly faster at 7950 even though the seat of the pants dyno felt like it was stuck in 3rd gear. This was all prior to Brad putting the 800 PRO with the power addiction head on a dyno so at that point it was only field testing and some educated theory. Now they have the dyno report and it supports what we've experienced on the stock motor/exhaust/timing with this head. The power drops off pretty significantly right at 8100.

A lot of clutch kits are allowing the PRO to even RPM higher under limited load (like a groomed trail) and then fade back to a holding R in heavy snow. That was even slower yet when we set them up in that fashion. That is typical of the stock high alt ap for Polaris. Most stock sleds will see 8200 and sometimes more with no load but in deep or heavier snow then they settle down into 8100ish. If you test sheave temps you'll see that is a hotter running clutch package then a sled that can pull to and then hold steady 7950-8050.

It would be interesting to see if you can even throw a bit more tip to your system and knock that finish R down 100 but still get the same pull and have it hold. If so you are there. The real telling part with these clutch kits seem to be if you can get consistent results in net R"s without load fade. If you get a lot of fade with your setup that simply equaled heat as well as a slower responding vehicle. It also seems to handicap your backshift. You can test this by racing heads up with a test sled full tilt for 5 seconds and then both sleds completely let out for 3 seconds...then hammer down again. You'll see the pull of a good setup come back much more aggressively while the other setup takes a longer duration to start pulling back to full RPM. It's very difficult to scientifically test (so we don't ever report distances or lengths) but it's there and the results and benefits of performance for mtn riding are telling. Thanks for your report.

 

[F-Bomb]

Oh no problem..my results pretty much stand for themselves out in the real world but it's nice to be respected here as well! I thank you and wish you all good results with your PRO's.

 

[ghost rider]

MDS

So what kind of track speeds were you guys pulling in the steep and deep with the MDS weights. Snow varies a little but what did the tack say on a vertical climb right before turnout. Thanks

 

[Cascade Addiction]

So what kind of track speeds were you guys pulling in the steep and deep with the MDS weights. Snow varies a little but what did the tack say on a vertical climb right before turnout. Thanks

Ummmm....Don't usually have to turn out....Haha just kidding, On steep n deep pulls this past month in the cascades with snow over the windshield, I would be right at 46-47mph track speed and about 8000 on the tach at around 5-6000' elevation, in less than 1.5 ft and firmer snow I am 8100-8150 on tach and 1-2mph faster on track speed unless snow is really wet. These readings are all off looking at tach, I have not done the recorder yet because once set in on the climb the guage was holding these numbers spot on and not jumping around so have not felt the need to run the recorder. I say I'm gonna every ride but end up not doing it. These numbers are the same from my buddies pro that is set up virtually the same, the only differance is I have a cut track and he doesn't, but I also out weigh him by almost a hundred pounds yet I can go everywhere he can, he keeps threatining to cut his track also to gain the advantage again. I keep waiting to pick him up one of these mornings and see a 174-3'" on his, I'm sure that is why he hasn't cut his so he can sale the track.
I am sure there are other great kits out there, you hear about a lot of them here on Snowest, I had the oppurtunity to be part of this setup from the begining and it was great being able to see the changes in performance with a little tweak here and there, Steve at MDS was and still is the best to work with, Ephrata farmer was a big part of this setup too but due to an unfortunate injury will be out for a couple months, I myself have been down the last couple weeks due to a wreck that required surgery, I am going tomorrow for the first ride since the accident and will have to take it easy for a bit but hope to be goin hard in another couple weeks. Should have more to post on this setup shortly, but don't know what else there is to discover because like F-Bomb says in his neck of the woods I get people wanting me to open the hood, they don't believe they are getting spanked that hard by a non-turbo sled, or one without a big bore, especially by someone my size. I will be doing the same on my next sled without question.

 

[dub]

Went up yesterday with 100/340 spring, stock gears back in and solid button head screw with washer in tip (67.4?).

I am still flashing 8350, then goes to 8,250 and stays without flutter. I am also still 3/4" from full shift on the primary.

I just can't seem to get my rpm down. I guess I will keep throwing weight at it but why is mine different from you guy's?

I am running Carl's helix, trimmed track and avid drivers as well, suggestions?

 

[skippy]

Went up yesterday with 100/340 spring, stock gears back in and solid button head screw with washer in tip (67.4?).

I am still flashing 8350, then goes to 8,250 and stays without flutter. I am also still 3/4" from full shift on the primary.

I just can't seem to get my rpm down. I guess I will keep throwing weight at it but why is mine different from you guy's?

I am running Carl's helix, trimmed track and avid drivers as well, suggestions?

How did you like the 100/340 spring? What RPM does your sled engage at now? I had the same problem you are having with the RPM and I just kept adding weight to the tip and that finally brought it down to 8050 or so... I don't have the Carl's helix though!

 

[Mountain800]

Went up yesterday with 100/340 spring, stock gears back in and solid button head screw with washer in tip (67.4?).

I am still flashing 8350, then goes to 8,250 and stays without flutter. I am also still 3/4" from full shift on the primary.

I just can't seem to get my rpm down. I guess I will keep throwing weight at it but why is mine different from you guy's?

I am running Carl's helix, trimmed track and avid drivers as well, suggestions?

Seem to have the same issue...riding 0-3000 feet...blue/white, mds weights at 74 gram, carls helix stock sec spring.. rpms too high and fluctating 8300-8600 with helix on 60-40 setting 8100-400 on 62-42 setting.. what to do? Add more weight?

 

[dub]

How did you like the 100/340 spring? What RPM does your sled engage at now? I had the same problem you are having with the RPM and I just kept adding weight to the tip and that finally brought it down to 8050 or so... I don't have the Carl's helix though!

Spring was nice, engaged at about 3,800-3,900. Feels a bit low, like you have to wick the throttle a bit more to get it to rip...hard to explain. I am going to try it one more time before I make a decision. It does allow the sled to coast down hill better.

As for weight, I was just wondering why some appear to rev higher than others? I was riding at 6K elevation and expected it to be less, I also expected to see a higher line on my primary though...

 

[jakey-boy]

Lots of people saying good things about these weights on the top. Curious if anyone has any problems on the bottom with bogs or sleds trenching more?

 

[newtrout]

I assume you guys have talked to Steve? Pretty sure he makes them to run with the stock helix and secondary spring. I could be wrong, I've only dealt with them on a Cat.

 

[Cascade Addiction]

In response to last several posts above, I don't know how to multi quote, I too was over revving but with stock setup. I could easily reach 8450-8550 without hitting limiter and my buddy was getting limiter around 8400???? Don't know why that is. After installing head, can, MDS weights at 67.3 grams for a 4-7k primary riding area. My engagement was 4700 with stock spring. I was pulling 8250-8300 also. I installed delrins, a 120-340 spring and engagement dropped to 4150-4200 and top rpm down to 8100 give or take depending on snow. I hit rev limiter alot on the trail and when in less than 1.5-2ft of fresh especially if unloading on a climb due to a bump but this is where I wanted to be so that on the really deep days when you want your sled to pull like a mule on crack it does, and just keeps pulling. For those of you that are high, take a look at your snow conditions, this could be the reason, it's kinda of a give and take. Also I have not seen this setup yet with Carls secondary, that was my next add on to toy with, could definately be some issues with having to add some more weight. Talk with steve bout putting another solid in the inner hole.
I have a 100/340 spring but have not tried it, it sounds like my thoughts on it have proved themselves, I figured engagement would drop to around 3800, the other factor to consider here is that with a softer bottom you also have a softer mid, this is why you see 8350 right out of the gate and settle to 8250. These weights shift out so fast and with a lot of force and the 100/340 spring can't keep up and gets mushed then pushes back. I believe the 120/340 is the way to go.
I have had no problems with low end bog or excessive trenching, actually one of my favorite things about these weights is to be able to get off the gas or even stop in the trees when it;s deep and get going again, I know alot of this is the chasis but the clutching doesn't hurt it.
These were designed for a stock machine, but without to much playing around with set up they are in my opinion easily dialed for individual rider, weight, style, elevation, conditions, and mesh real nice with other accessories, just takes a little fiddling with, each sled becomes it's own lab rat, step back, think outside the box and take a look at what is happening with your sled and what would remedy the problem and it will all come in line. Let er RIP!!!!

 

[azzkicker]

For those of you that are high, take a look at your snow conditions,

how did you know?Thanks for the info.I've been following this got it on the way we need to hook-up paw paw moses laker

 

[Mountain800]

In response to last several posts above, I don't know how to multi quote, I too was over revving but with stock setup. I could easily reach 8450-8550 without hitting limiter and my buddy was getting limiter around 8400???? Don't know why that is. After installing head, can, MDS weights at 67.3 grams for a 4-7k primary riding area. My engagement was 4700 with stock spring. I was pulling 8250-8300 also. I installed delrins, a 120-340 spring and engagement dropped to 4150-4200 and top rpm down to 8100 give or take depending on snow. I hit rev limiter alot on the trail and when in less than 1.5-2ft of fresh especially if unloading on a climb due to a bump but this is where I wanted to be so that on the really deep days when you want your sled to pull like a mule on crack it does, and just keeps pulling. For those of you that are high, take a look at your snow conditions, this could be the reason, it's kinda of a give and take. Also I have not seen this setup yet with Carls secondary, that was my next add on to toy with, could definately be some issues with having to add some more weight. Talk with steve bout putting another solid in the inner hole.
I have a 100/340 spring but have not tried it, it sounds like my thoughts on it have proved themselves, I figured engagement would drop to around 3800, the other factor to consider here is that with a softer bottom you also have a softer mid, this is why you see 8350 right out of the gate and settle to 8250. These weights shift out so fast and with a lot of force and the 100/340 spring can't keep up and gets mushed then pushes back. I believe the 120/340 is the way to go.
I have had no problems with low end bog or excessive trenching, actually one of my favorite things about these weights is to be able to get off the gas or even stop in the trees when it;s deep and get going again, I know alot of this is the chasis but the clutching doesn't hurt it.
These were designed for a stock machine, but without to much playing around with set up they are in my opinion easily dialed for individual rider, weight, style, elevation, conditions, and mesh real nice with other accessories, just takes a little fiddling with, each sled becomes it's own lab rat, step back, think outside the box and take a look at what is happening with your sled and what would remedy the problem and it will all come in line. Let er RIP!!!!

Okay, my snowconditions may be the reason it revs so high.... I wonder how do you adjust your mds weights on the mountain? I found out that I have to remove clutch cover to get them out for adjustment? am i right? the stock weights I could pull out by using large screwdriver to bend my primary open... thanks

 

[Cascade Addiction]

On the mtn

Okay, my snowconditions may be the reason it revs so high.... I wonder how do you adjust your mds weights on the mountain? I found out that I have to remove clutch cover to get them out for adjustment? am i right? the stock weights I could pull out by using large screwdriver to bend my primary open... thanks

You can do it on the mountain, you need a screwdriver to pry open at first then a wrench to pry open the rest of the way and insert a socket of correct length to hold open or use a c-bracket(hand made) to hold it, but it has to be all the way open. I have removed the cover too and it is almost as fast and a little safer on the fingers. With a socket or ratcheting wrench remove 3 of the 6 bolts completely and remove the other 3 evenly, once it's halfway off you can actually hold it with one hand and run them out, just repeat process on install, be sure to line up the "x" on outer cover with the one on the primary, I'm sure you knew this but had to say it. No more than "pinky finger torque" on install, around 8-10lbs or so, don't remember for sure, or you can break them and that's a pain. I have a cut down t-handle hex wrench and ground down end wrench to remove the ramp pins. Hope this helps.

 

[Bamboozled]

First ride with MDS. Very happy. I'm in Island Park and snow conditions are not optimal---snow is set up and it's difficult to get stuck without driver error.

I'm running 66.2
Green/Black primary spring
Engaging at 4150
Pulling 8100 when climbing and this thing is rockin.

My buddy has same set up except he has his stock primary spring. Not sure there is any difference between the 2 sleds.

 

[dub]

What rate is the green/black? Why the he!! does mine turn so many R's??

 

[TRS]

120-340 black/green

 

[wellfed777]

BAM
what elevation is island park ?
thanks