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Matryx boost fuel pump

What are the odds when poo comes out with a fix that a dealer will fail the warranty fix for tampering with the fuel system? At this point I just want to make it through the year if it decides to snow
 
What are the odds when poo comes out with a fix that a dealer will fail the warranty fix for tampering with the fuel system? At this point I just want to make it through the year if it decides to snow
I called my dealer other day about the fuel pump and asked if they will still warranty it if it fails after I mod it he said 50/50 chance of getting it covered . I”ll do it regardless if pump starts acting up
 
It takes like an hour, we did 2 sleds. both filters have springs, second one is inside the black box. Both sleds had very loud pumps before the mod, quite after. Will find out if they get a low fuel pressure code still.
What diameter of spring did you use ?
 
If you make a slit to install the spring how do you ensure it’s sealed up enough to still filter the fuel sufficiently to avoid having an injector plug and smoke an engine.
 
Can anyone do a quick explanation of what to remove in basic order to get the tank off and pump outof the tank?

I removed the clutch belt tool, all t40 screws, all push tabs holding the plastic on the dash and the plastic piece by your knees (both sides). The plastic piece that the tether and key are on. Take the fuel cap and fuel tank retaining ring off. There’s a 10 mm bolt holding the gas tank to the frame by the steering post (similar to how axys tank was held). Take the seat off with t40. Two 10 mm nuts holding the back of the tank. On belt drive side unhook fuel lines and fuel pump electrical plug. Hold plastics up and fuel tank slides right out. Be careful taking the pickup assembly out of the tank, the fuel gauge float is hard to get lined up. I used a magnet to get it where i wanted it. When reinstalling remember to line up the arrow on the tank with the notches on the pump housing. The dealer failed to do that when I had it there the previous day.

I asked the mechanic if they could check fuel pressure with digital wrench and he said it’s not possible. Does anyone else know for sure?
 
Do I need a special tool to remove the fuel lines from the pump? I recall on the old Pro series, there was a tool to get them off, I think it looked like a tiny plastic funnel.
 
Do I need a special tool to remove the fuel lines from the pump? I recall on the old Pro series, there was a tool to get them off, I think it looked like a tiny plastic funnel.
The early pro-rides were like that, needed the tool, but in 2013 they switched to a quick disconnect. Matryx is similar, there's a retaining clip that you slide out, either by hand or with a small flat head.

I'm curious about the big nut securing the pump though, is that removable without the specific tool?
 
The early pro-rides were like that, needed the tool, but in 2013 they switched to a quick disconnect. Matryx is similar, there's a retaining clip that you slide out, either by hand or with a small flat head.

I'm curious about the big nut securing the pump though, is that removable without the specific tool?
It always has been in the past.
Hammer and punch or big channel lok’s.
 
I removed the clutch belt tool, all t40 screws, all push tabs holding the plastic on the dash and the plastic piece by your knees (both sides). The plastic piece that the tether and key are on. Take the fuel cap and fuel tank retaining ring off. There’s a 10 mm bolt holding the gas tank to the frame by the steering post (similar to how axys tank was held). Take the seat off with t40. Two 10 mm nuts holding the back of the tank. On belt drive side unhook fuel lines and fuel pump electrical plug. Hold plastics up and fuel tank slides right out. Be careful taking the pickup assembly out of the tank, the fuel gauge float is hard to get lined up. I used a magnet to get it where i wanted it. When reinstalling remember to line up the arrow on the tank with the notches on the pump housing. The dealer failed to do that when I had it there the previous day.

I asked the mechanic if they could check fuel pressure with digital wrench and he said it’s not possible. Does anyone else know for sure?


No. Manual fuel pressure gauge
 
Mine and my buddy's whined one day in wyoming and just quit. Rode another 4 days and no whine. Both had previously whined from day one.
 
I've only had one time that it threw a low fuel pressure warning.
It does have a really loud whine at idle now that presents later in the day with lower fuel levels.

So far ive got just over 520 miles on a Boost 163 Slash. It's been completely flawless so far but I am going to stop by the dealership and ask about the pump whine tomorrow.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
Rode two days in togwotee. The fuel pump was ok but noisy the first day, didn't ride very much aggressively. On Saturday we rode more trail and the pump was even louder. Below 60% fuel it throws a code everytime you climb and full throttle. Tried a re entry on a tiny hill and still got code. Basically not rideable right now. Pump was very loud by the end of the day, take the fuel cap off and it's louder than the engine/exhaust. Did not ride Sunday because I don't trust it. Dealer wants to try the springs in the socks. I think it will help but I believe the fuel pump is not healthy. Crickets from Polaris.
 
I'd ask them for a new pump and put spring in sock. Unqualified internet opinion: Your pump sounds like its fried from being overworked/starved
 
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