Installation & Review: Yamaha OEM Turbo & MPI Stage One Upgrade

[2Huskies]

Glad to see we are getting some MPI traffic going. Just wanted to let everyone know I have ordered my ECU overnighted back to me. Hope to put the sled all together tomorrow. My airframes and seat are currently getting powder coated. I'll see those Monday!

Who's riding tomorrow?

 

[2Huskies]

Alright I spent the whole day today working on the sled!

To start with I finished off the Step 69 which is the last step in the turbo oil line system

By installing the steel braided line to the top of the turbo and installing it. Insure that the line passes the turbo and loops back in a 180 degree loop.

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 70

Reinstall the OE Steering column

I went ahead and used OFT's Steering Relocation Kit.

Insure that the M10 ball joint is torqued to 50 lbs and reinstall the cotter pin.

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 71 was to install the Radiator and Fan Assembly. I have already done that, along with Step 72 which was to install a Water Temp gauge. I am not doing that as of yet.

Step 73

Insure that the throttle cable and other cables are routed correctly. Reinstall Throttle cable to the thumb throttle

Once i routed the cable behind the OEM square mounting bracket, I brought it in front of the column because of the relocation kit. It may not be the same if your column is unchanged.

As you can see here, it routes in front of it.

From there I reinstalled the throttle cable into the throttle and reattached it using the two black screws that i removed before

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 74

Connect the Electrical plugs of the MPI Gems Unit. Connect each end into the two 16 pin OE grey connectors, and at the same time insure that the ground wire is installed as well.

The two 16 pin connectors.

Step 75

Connect the boost sense line to the small brass 90 degree elbow on the side of the Airbox

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 76
Insure that the throttle cable is installed and adjusted to proper freeplay. Just had to check the OEM manual to take care of that.

Step 77
Reinstall the OEM headlight

Its just installed with 4 plastic push pins

 

[2Huskies]

Now for everyone who remembers, a few steps ago I said that I found some cables that had been rubbed through. Now I went ahead and taped them with electrical tape but SLASH said to use liquid electrical tape.

So I undid the taping job that I did. You can see it being peeled away here.

As you can now see here, it has been liquid taped, and no longer poses the threat of having water get into it and short it out.

Slash, will you ride with me now? hahaha

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 78

Install the OEM temp Sensor that you removed from the Airbox back onto the harness as shown

Now I spent forever trying to find this part, it turns out that I forgot to remove it from the air-box. Now once I found it, i just attached it to the plug in and zip-tied it to the harness.

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 79-83

Install Fuel Tank and all Connections.

Reinstall the OE fuel tank, make sure that the black turbo oil line and steel braided line run underneath the tank in the two grooves there.

Now you can see here how each cable runs out from underneath the fuel tank.

From there you can see I went ahead and connected the fuel supply line, and wire harness.

With that complete, I slid forward the tank all the way until it seats. It does fit snug and I had to be pretty careful to make sure not to pinch any cables.

Then once its set attach the OE breather hose to the top of the tank.

Lastly secure the tank in position with the OEM nut and washers, insuring that on the RH side the retaining clamp is used to hold down the tail light cable.

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 84

Now the instructions here are to install the new vent hose provided in the kit onto the top of the oil tank. Yet for me I have a shut off valve that has been installed. So I had to do a bit of jimmy rigging to make mine work.

This is how it looked when I started

The blue and red "plug" is the shut off valve which stock sleds will not have. But if you do any mountain riding at all i highly recommend you have one installed otherwise the first time you roll your sled over you will dump all of your oil

This is the end of that tube which used to dump the oil vapors into the old airbox. Now with the new airbox installed we need to route it down to the bottom of the sled.

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 84 Continued
My first thing I did was take the hose that was already connected to the oil tank and I cut that almost in half to allow me to fit the new hose in.

Thread the new provided hose as shown here to the RH side of the oil tank. Then down to the bottom of the sled

Then I installed the provided new hose onto the the other end of the shut off valve. Then snugged down the worm clamp tight. The hose is a bit big but if you snug down the clamp and position it where I did there is no chance of it coming off or leaking.

Now the tube runs down to the bottom of the sled. Now if you are doing just the regular installation your tubing will run up and above the battery. The provided instructions make it very easy to see how its done. It just wasnt an option for me.

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 86

Connect the Battery Positive Cable back (Red cable, Hot)

Step 87

Route the Turbo oil return pump wiring from the pump down the RH side of the tunnel. Basically just use the tail light wiring as a guide.

Then the instructions say to follow the cables under the square aluminum OE hoop toward the battery.

Step 88

Connect the OE ground wire to the negative terminal including the ground lug for the new turbo oil pump harness

Step 89

This is the first time I had to ask someone to come over to my house and do something for me that i couldnt do. Remember this is still the first time I have ever attempted anything like this.

Step 89 requires that you solder the red cable from the new turbo oil pump to a specific Blue / White OE wire found coming out of the fuse box.

Now I wasnt able to find the fuse box for a bit since I had no idea where to look lol.

Its the black box and it is located just underneath and behind the handle used to engage the reverse.

Once you locate the correct wire strip off about an inch of the insulation and solder the red wire to it.

My friend come over and he took about two inches more off the insulation of the red wire then was already done for you. Then braided it around the blue and white wire and then soldered it.

He did it so fast I apologize i didnt grab a picture. I was trying to learn how to do it and set my phone down long enough I didnt snap any pictures.

Essentially he just looped it around the blue/white wire and then twisted it tight and soldered it in place

 

[2Huskies]

Reinstall Fuel Tank, Steering Column, Head Light & ETC

Step 89 Continued

Now a word of warning, make sure that you have the red wire where you want it before you solder it. We did not have it at all where we wanted it and ended up cutting the red wire to position it and soldering it back to it self after.

As you can see here we ran it under the reverse shifter and then clamped and ziptied it with a group of wires running upward to keep it out of the way.

After that i went back to the first wire and again used the liquid electrical tape and gave it three coats

Now thats the last step, the next section with be starting the engine.

Stay tuned

 

[1-800Oregon]

I routed the end of the breather hose into the sub frame tubing. At first I had open in the engine up near the radiator, but you do get some oil coming out of it which can make thinks a little messy.

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

 

[1-800Oregon]

Also looks like your getting close. Make sure you do a leak down test before you button everthing up. Are you installing any guages?

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[1-800Oregon]

Man I keep thinking of little thing, that i hope help. First spark plug gap, you will want to close the gap a little now that you got boost. I should have got to that before you got the tank back on. Also a snorkel help me a lot along with a second outerware prefilter. The turbo makes heat, turns snow to water which gets into the foam filter then freezes again restricting air flow.

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[christopher]

Well.
Were you able to TEST START IT last night???

DOES IT RUN?

 

[2Huskies]

Alright oregan. I have not done a leak test, but I didn't mess with anything on the spark plugs and she only had 1200 miles

Now the plug gap, what did you change?

Matt any comments on changing that from MPI's side?

Now I'll be honest I don't understand the snorkel comment, could you elaborate?

 

[1-800Oregon]

Plug gap .018 to .020 do to higher pressures.
Picture of snorkel attached. I just made my own. Mine is just a piece of fuel filler hose I got at NAPA cut to fit. I'm pretty sure i saw some were mpi talked about cutting the foam off to provent icing but I just cut some holes in it and with the snokel dont have the icing problem with the filter

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[slash]

I hope you secured the braided hose it has a reputation of grinding away at anything it touches ..vibration will cause wear on parts and all sleds vibrate..