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How many have lost "skirts"

Has anyone considered running the fix kit? I remember when they first posted it here and everyone basically laughed and said "what issues?" when he claimed it fixed the piston issues on the Pro. Maybe he knew nothing had changed though and the fix could be something to look into? Especially once guys start running out of warranty.

http://www.pmspolaris.com/thefix.htm

Here's the original thread I was talking about.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283049

I see I was one of the ones that responded...and I guess my warranty did fix it. Seems like they have addressed the issue...HMMMM.
 
www.mtntkperformance.com

Is the manufacturer for the "Fix Kit". PMS is a distributor. It utilizes a spacer plate and different pistons. It was developed for the Dragons but they do have a kit for the Pro also.

So far they have not had any failures with the "Fix Kit" that were as a result of any of their parts. The few failures on motors that have occurred were due to other problems and they worked with them to get them back up and running.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

Ah, thanks. I knew that website I posted didn't seem like the right one.
 
Is the flaking / pitting related to the (wear and clearance) or transfer port causing wear?

Just curious if the problem may be related to the rod angularity with heavy side loading of the piston?
 
Look ..adding the "FIX" kit does NOT change the rod ratio in any way , shape, or form..

Side loading via rod angularity will remain the same.. So, IF there was a rod angularity issue with the engine, the the only way to address this is to alter the rod ratio.. Please keep that in mind when people claim that it "fixes" an issue that can not possible be fixed without altering the crank!

I am not going to get on here an tell you why any OTHER kit does or does not do what is claimed..

All I can tell you is that there is an issue with the stock Polaris Piston and it can be remedied in a few different manners. Once this is addressed, then the engine should be less prone to issues. But HP claims/gains need to be validated via real world visualzation .. you know... on the snow where you can see the difference!

We have addressed chosen to address the piston issues and ALSO add some good performance inthe the process.. kill 2 birds with one stone... These results can be validated and verfied on the snow.. (no it "feels" better type validation) but real validation on the mountain.

In any case, the engine longevity has been less than stellar with the CFI power plant..

ABSOLUTELY adding more oil will help alleviate the crank issues but will do little for the piston issues.

Once this engine is "humming" it is a very nice engine to have.. Just be careful about all the "theories" of what it needs and what is actually wrong.

Kelsey
 
Look ..adding the "FIX" kit does NOT change the rod ratio in any way , shape, or form..

Side loading via rod angularity will remain the same.. So, IF there was a rod angularity issue with the engine, the the only way to address this is to alter the rod ratio.. Please keep that in mind when people claim that it "fixes" an issue that can not possible be fixed without altering the crank!

I am not going to get on here an tell you why any OTHER kit does or does not do what is claimed..

All I can tell you is that there is an issue with the stock Polaris Piston and it can be remedied in a few different manners. Once this is addressed, then the engine should be less prone to issues. But HP claims/gains need to be validated via real world visualzation .. you know... on the snow where you can see the difference!

We have addressed chosen to address the piston issues and ALSO add some good performance inthe the process.. kill 2 birds with one stone... These results can be validated and verfied on the snow.. (no it "feels" better type validation) but real validation on the mountain.

In any case, the engine longevity has been less than stellar with the CFI power plant..

ABSOLUTELY adding more oil will help alleviate the crank issues but will do little for the piston issues.

Once this engine is "humming" it is a very nice engine to have.. Just be careful about all the "theories" of what it needs and what is actually wrong.

Kelsey

Kelsey, what do you recommend for prevenative maintanance.. I have a 2012 Pro 800 , but dont want to deal with broken cylider skirt..ect..ect.
 
i broke a cylinder skirt at about 2000 miles. pretty abusive, almost all mountain miles. i don't do trails if i can avoid it and getting much over 60 miles on a tank is fairly rare. i have been very happy with my sled over all. i did start noticing a few issues around 1500 miles before the motor went south. as much as i like it i think there is still room for improvement with the motor as far as factory tolerances and specs go.

pv
 
Look ..adding the "FIX" kit does NOT change the rod ratio in any way , shape, or form..

Side loading via rod angularity will remain the same.. So, IF there was a rod angularity issue with the engine, the the only way to address this is to alter the rod ratio.. Please keep that in mind when people claim that it "fixes" an issue that can not possible be fixed without altering the crank!

I am not going to get on here an tell you why any OTHER kit does or does not do what is claimed..

All I can tell you is that there is an issue with the stock Polaris Piston and it can be remedied in a few different manners. Once this is addressed, then the engine should be less prone to issues. But HP claims/gains need to be validated via real world visualzation .. you know... on the snow where you can see the difference!

We have addressed chosen to address the piston issues and ALSO add some good performance inthe the process.. kill 2 birds with one stone... These results can be validated and verfied on the snow.. (no it "feels" better type validation) but real validation on the mountain.

In any case, the engine longevity has been less than stellar with the CFI power plant..

ABSOLUTELY adding more oil will help alleviate the crank issues but will do little for the piston issues.

Once this engine is "humming" it is a very nice engine to have.. Just be careful about all the "theories" of what it needs and what is actually wrong.

Kelsey

So does your kit address the rod ratio issue? (too short of a rod verses the length of the stroke?) That is inherent with all the '08-'13 700-800 CFI's. Or is your "kit"really just another bandaid to fix one of the three major shortfalls of Polaris's ill conceived design? Rod Ratio which exacerbates the cylinder skirt support issue, Excessive Piston clearance's, and Fuel Mapping Issues.
 
sled

we had two 2011s do it at 2400 miles and 2800 miles, its a small percentage and the cylinders are changed on the 2012s
 
2010 Dragon blown motor

I just had my 2010 Dragon give it up at 1300 miles and we are now getting some good snow!:face-icon-small-fro I want to get a 2013 pro, hope it will hold up!
 
Kelsey, what do you recommend for prevenative maintanance.. I have a 2012 Pro 800 , but dont want to deal with broken cylider skirt..ect..ect.


IMO, the best way to help with this issue is to get a better piston installed.

For the crank issues.. turn up the oil pump to 24:1
 
So does your kit address the rod ratio issue? (too short of a rod verses the length of the stroke?) That is inherent with all the '08-'13 700-800 CFI's. Or is your "kit"really just another bandaid to fix one of the three major shortfalls of Polaris's ill conceived design? Rod Ratio which exacerbates the cylinder skirt support issue, Excessive Piston clearance's, and Fuel Mapping Issues.


IMO, there is no rod ratio issue...
 
IMO, there is no rod ratio issue...

Then why are all the upper rod journals blue from excessive heat! This phenomenon does not occur on the smaller Polaris engines (600 and less) and I would guess the other two brands with two strokes?
 
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Don't even get me started on the Polaris engine nightmare (I hope your listening POLARIS). From the VE 800 breaking bottom ends to the "Dragon'em home" dragon POS, now to the "Pro at dropping a skirt" I have nothing good to say (should I even bring up the 900?????). I am sooo frustrated at Polaris. My brother's 12 is in the shop blew two weeks ago (800 miles) still not together yet, and my 12 limped back to the trailer today(700 miles), can't wait to see what the damage is on it, Ohhhh and did I mention I blew my 11 last year and so did my brother. You can tell me that the issues are isolated so I guess me and my brother just have bad luck???? Don't think so. I have all the repair orders if anyone doubts, just throwing that out there so I can scan and post. Also since I'm venting why does Polaris have the best chassis out there and a weak piss ant motor trying to move it? For those that think the Pro is not underpowered try riding at 10500 ft and weighing 265 (not my fault my dad is a Viking). I'm tired of Cat and Doo guys waxing us. Just love Polaris's answer to my power question, "It's the EPA, or well we have a light chassis you don’t need as much power". Ya thank goodness for the light chassis cause if the Pro weighted what the others did then everyone would see just how underpowered the Pro is, just saying. Just sucks we have to spend more money to get the pro to run with “go fast parts” to keep up with Cat and Doo. And when you put on the “Go fast Parts” there goes the warranty and Polaris’s weak motor doesn’t hold up so that’s money down the toilet. OHHH and I did ride the 13 today, again nice chassis refinements, but the engine is the same ol' turd. Not buying another Polaris till engine issues are addressed and we have class leading power, durability, and reliability. Thank you Polaris for giving us what GM gave us in the 90's another 6.5 TD POS. You all can let Polaris fool you about how good their engines are but I work too hard for my money to just throw it away! Time and more miles on the 11's and 12's will prove my point! Enough said I'm out-
 
Stock?

silverado are your and your brother's 2012s stock? What did they find when they tore your brother's apart?
 
Then why are all the upper rod journals blue from excessive heat! This phenomenon does not occur on the smaller Polaris engines (600 and less) and I would guess the other two brands with two strokes?


I have seen many CFI cranks and I rarely see any bluing.. How many have you seen?

Again, the rod ratio onthis engine is better than the Cat 800 and they do not have any problems..

IMO, the issue is not with the rod ratio but more with the piston and cylinder design
 
i would also think the bluing is at least partically caused by having the oil pump turned down too low and A LOT of the cfi motors are not running enough oil, imo. personally, i want to be around 32:1 on a deep wide open day. that's about where i'm at now, +/-. was around 42:1 or so before. was pushing 60:1 on days with more trail miles. the lower oil consumption is for epa purposes only, two-strokes are still two-strokes.

pv
 
aaahhh!life is good now.just finished install of RKT drop in kit and test drive on my 2011 pro.stock pistons has HUGE piston to cylinder clearance,0.25 mm measured 10mm from bottom of piston skirt,rings were flaking of intake side and there was alot of ring blowby.rattling noise has gone away,just the usual P85 noise is left.running the same clutching,my rpm has gone up from 8000 to 8500.11-66,stock springs and helix.0-4500 feet.great trottle response too.I suspect power was down a bit since she was new,but this is a good increase in power.will try to load more weight/helix.maybe she can pull a little more.will get a good night sleep when not worrying if she will take out the engine next trip.also turned up the oiler,5 turns on adjuster screw.will have to calculate new ratio,but old was 1.5/100.rod bearings/thrust bearings and piston pin bearings looks ok,shiney surfaces.only used VES gold plus.so far,I am a happy camper:face-icon-small-hap
 
I lost a Kilt once but never a Skirt!

In our riding group, you have to wear a skirt when you pull a bonehead maneuver on yer sled. I still have the skirt from our last outing. So, no, I haven't lost a skirt on my any of my 3 Pro's. :face-icon-small-ton
 
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