I know only 3%ers care, but has anybody had a chance to compare the profile of any of these new weights to stock?
Good question Dave.
I hope to not offended anyone by following info.
Understanding Drive clutch weights.
if you check almost every aftermarket weight made the profiles are almost always a copy of a Polaris 10 series.
Calling out profiles is a little complex. ( complex because sometimes heel contact position with the clutch moveable Heel pad is changed ).
Example :
SLP MTX - Slightly taller heel which closes the drive clutch and lowers engagement with the same spring and makes low end throttle response seem and ( FEEL ) like less throttle response. ( Sometimes requires Drive clutch disassembly and spider re-shimming ) The reason they feel like this is because the SLP MTX weights ( More Mass above the pin center-line ) bites the belt harder then almost any 10 series type copy
Tri-City Polaris, TRS, old style Arctic Cat weights all have a cut heel Requires Drive clutch disassembly and spider re-shimming ) that drops the weight deeper into the clutch which puts more mass down under the pin center line raising engagement with the same spring decreasing belt pressure & bite increasing low end belt slippage ( Feels like better throttle response ) the reason it feels like more throttle response is because all cut heel weights have less belt bite and more low-end belt slippage.
Any stock or any aftermarket 10 Series copy ( No shimming and most are the average between both the above listEd examples. ( The reason the factory uses the heel position they do is because it’s a pretty good fit the average user best. ( and of course NON adjustable ) Most Adjustable weights give good clutch tuners advantages that NON adjustable weights cannot give.
The reason most companies copy the 10 series is to keep drive clutch belt to sheave shimming the same as stock so no drive clutch shimming is required.
Lets understand this important fact ( Clutch weights do not change a motors throttle response at the same RPM )
Springs raise engagement or lower engagement
At a givien RPM Clutch weights either slip the belt or they do not ( Throttle response is a motor by product and driven clutch helix and spring combo ) responsible for keeping the motor in its power curve giving the drive clutch weights fit the operators personal feel.
Slipping the belt causes belt heat and wears grooves in the bottom of the drive clutch.
Cut heel weights of any kind cause poor cold morning take offs or reverse operation.
High heel weights like SLP MTX ( Or adjustable weights thatcan be loaded towards the Pin ) increase cold morning belt performance with higher low end belt pressure )
10 series fall dead center between high heel and cut heel weights.
There is no free lunch ( Understanding clutch weights will help you purchase what’s the best personal fit for you.)
A better example then list above ( If you own a Polaris UTV Side x side ) of any kind then you have experienced belt slippage at epic levels.)
No current production recreational vehicle is clutched worse then a Polaris UTV or side x side.
Indy Specialty UTV & Side x side clutch weights relatively eliminate belt slippage and increase belt life by a 10X factor & Drive clutch sheave wear is 95% less. And low end take of and trailer loading and pulling take off is much smoother and your head doesn’t snap at take off.
The Polaris UTV & Side x side stock clutching is an Example of worst OEM belt slippage and the most OEM clutch wear & owner expense.
UTV & Side x Side OEM Clutches and OEM clutch setups should NOT need electric fans to get a belt to last.
Dan
