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Chain case life Gen 5

Curious if you had the hitch pin on the adjuster bolt through the hole so it cannot back off or if it was “around” the adjuster bolt like it comes from Doo and is shown in the manual?
I have a feeling that some of the failures are a loose chain due to the adjuster backing off under the right conditions. It could happen in a matter of seconds at the right vibration frequency.
Having that pin around the adjuster never made sense to me, put mine through the bolt from day one on my 22.
Curious if others have had the failure with the pin through the hole. ??
My pin was around the bolt the whole time like they come installed.
But…. I was curious early on if it was backing itself off during riding, so I marked the bolt with paint to see if it was moving on its own. I confirmed it was not.
 
If I would blow my chain ands sprockets, I would ask dealer to order bw hyvo chain and sprockets from old turbo to replace old parts
I asked for a warranty claim back in January to switch the gears and chain out to the hyvo style like in the 20.5-22 sleds, before they broke and destroyed everything and also ruined a good ride.. nothing happened.

So now that everything broke just like I anticipated it would, I tried to order the 22 hyvo gears and chain and my dealer told me everything was back ordered and not sure on eta. ?
 
I'm a bit curious about what happens first. Is it the powder forged bottom gear that fractures and then takes everything else out or? (I haven't followed this closely but judging by the pics I've seen that seems likely).

Would a billet bottom gear from, for example, a -20 Expert add life time to the system? Or doesn't it fit together with chain/top sprocket? (At least my friend's -20 Expert had a billet bottom gear, don't know if they all had them)
My gears were fine. Chain just finally stretched so far that it broke.
 
I put 300 miles on my stock none hyvo setup, and tightened the chain 4 times. Did the tki insert and hyvo parts and only tighten the chain 2 times in 450 miles.
 
I retract all my posts on the chain case issues,they must not of happened,must of been a bad case of internet over tone.
 
Oh there is a problem, unfortunately it’s on the owner of the sled to figure out what is needed to obtain reliability in his or her situation.

Yep I’d rather buy a belt drive or hyvo chain and sprockets than be helicopter off the mountain. I also don’t know personally of any failures but I am not interested in taking a chance of failure so I am putting my 2020 track shaft and drivers with a belt drive on my turbo R lynx. And already put a pre 2021 driver and shaft and older lower gear combo on my na shredder.


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I also don’t know personally of any failures but


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People come to the internet to complain or regurgitate what they hear hence why so many of these issues turn huge and have no real merit or a few isolated cases seem monstrous. Obviously this issue is bigger than a few isolated cases and For MY24 Skidoo has and will address it and we can move on. The quick remove driveshaft is a waste in my opinion I will never personally get the benefit of it and I suspect most people won’t. But Skidoo listens to their ambassadors for changes and I can almost guarantee you it came from guys like Karl Kuster and the rest of the race team.


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People have been complaining about the complexity of maintenance work on doo/lynx, now we get solutions that makes maintenance less time consuming and people are still complaining. Personally I have seen this is a good thing, I had to change my drivers to aftermarket ones because of ratcheting. First prototype didnt work and had again to change new drivers and now my ratcheting issues are gone finally. I saved a lots of time when I didnt need to take hood, silencer and chain case apart when in this project. Also rear suspension is a lot easier to take off and reinstall now. Good engineering by doo in my opinion.

In my opinion issue is not the drive shaft, its the poor quality chain and sprockets used in us/can. I doubt there would have been any issues with old Hyvo chain and sprockets. But Im sure brp will address this issue for the next season and will update ´23 units too.
 
Tell us about your solution!

Drivers are oem style but they are made from harder plastic than oem. Teeths are 5mm taller and bit wider than stock ones have.

04DCC74B-3A66-44F7-8437-3C2B294766D5.jpeg

With original drivers once you get ratcheting on the first place its game over. They take some damage as black plastic is so soft. You can see how teeths look like "shark fin". No matter how hard you tighten the track you will get ratcheting.

87862966-455C-40B7-9013-7CEA621178A4.jpeg

These seem to be quite similar as what we made: https://avid-products.com/collections/ski-doo/products/skidoo-antiratchet-drivers-skidoo-tracks
 
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With original drivers once you get ratcheting on the first place its game over. They take some damage as black plastic is so soft. You can see how teeths look like "shark fin". No matter how hard you tighten the track you will get ratcheting.

So I guess what you are saying as long as you maintain your track tension according to the manual you will never have issues with your drivers or ratcheting.


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