BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPGRADE (PREVIOUSLY $28 upgrade)

[geo]

It's cooler but with still a spike of about 10 or 12 degrees now then again a very quick cool off after shut down.
Before it was only 6 or 7 degrees but the putor did it's thing with timing retard and leaning out and also now I'm actually working the motor harder and longer.

I think a lot of it is the timing like I said before and I'm leaving it rich because of that so the added pipe heat will have some effect too.

I guess I'll have to find out the rest next year cause I just got called back to work (sob sob lol) so no more tune days only blue sky weekend days lol.
Over the summer I'll finish the 1" all the way and try to add an aluminum cross over tube at the back of the bulkhead. But I really think retarding the non-retarded-by-the-computor timing will make a huge difference in head temps and pipe temps and be my last piece to my CFI puzzle.

Bin a good learning year for me cause I never had to dink with the handling. Love my Pro.

 

[ditch1000]

I gutted the existing t-stat, did not feel comfortable using the rubber washer without something inside to hold shape and thickness.

X2. I did the same thing. I just took my sled for the initial run and could not believe the difference in temps. I was running 136-146 before installing the bypass. Now I'm running between 104 and 109 in 6" of fresh powder. I think this is gonna work out pretty nice.
Thanks TRS!!

 

[snobyrd]

i gutted my stock t stat and used the remaining ring and rubber gasket for my seal, instead of silicone and no more leaks.

TRS you should get the 2013 snowest inovation award, theres alot of members on here that would hav went bald from pullin thier hair out without this fix, i bought a tied , several springs, weights,and helixes tryin to fix a power problem and in the end it was a 45$ fix...
tks man

jeff

 

[ditch1000]

I rode in 18" of fresh powder today... 2800' - 3500'. Was pulling 66 grams and at times hitting as high as 8600 rpms!! The sled definitely makes the power now!!

 

[TRS]

Thanks guys, much appreciated.
FYI I would add insulated heat tape to the pipe side of the thermostat housing. I have over 400 miles on the set up without any issues. Yesterday the thermostat stuck closed twice. Thinking the ex.can heat is getting to the thermo housing. This happened after extended 1 mile wide open pulls in warm outside temps. Is it a thermostat housing or thermostat failure????? I don't know. Will add tape this morning and replace the housing if necessary.
Put the upgrade on a 2012 600 Friday. He was having heat issues with an after market head.
New snow this morning, epic day ahead.

 

[geo]

Good point I forgot to mention TRS. I have a SLP pipe and can and did the install on mine with these in place because it is a little tighter than stock.
It was close enough to the pipe that I heat taped the housing and 3/4" pipe just because.

The other thing that stuck in my mind is most Doo dealers stock these things out here. There has to be a reason for that too.

 

[TRS]

Tape worked. Please tape your install.

 

[wfieldin]

I'm going to be taking this off my 11 Pro, getting a different machine, it will be ready to go as soon as I get the replacement t-stat, had to order, it was not in stock. If someone is interested PM me. It will be complete with the original gutted stat. You will need 4 - 1" clamps to install. As most of you know this is not a $28 install by the time you are done. My local Napa carries the powerclamps, I can get them if you would like. Thanks

 

[tdbaugha]

I wish I could get them to flip. Must be that iphone thing.

On this install was that the stock hose rotated?

 

[TRS]

No sir, used the NAPA 8205 hose.

 

[96sherm]

is there an easy way to drain the coolant enough to do this mod without making a mess? I made an enormous mess of coolant when I rebuilt my motor, rather not go through that again...

 

[GoHiSK1]

I use an inexpensive pump action vacuum vessel . $30 - $50 .
Drain the coolant bottle first the remove then remove the coolant hose going to the thermostat housing on the cylinder head and suck the coolant out of that hose.
Next take the lower 1" hose off of the coolant bottle. Maybe place a shop cloth under the coolant bottle as there is still fluid in the hose as it runs parallel to the the chassis that runs to the lower front of the engine and water pump.

There are probably other ways but this procedure works very well for me.

 

[beamslayer]

Looking for other option for 1" x1" x 3/4 " tee BPR is a week out . Napa person does not have anything .The only one I found online is for a irrigation system but no one waters their yards here .

 

[snobyrd]

is there an easy way to drain the coolant enough to do this mod without making a mess? I made an enormous mess of coolant when I rebuilt my motor, rather not go through that again...

Wat I do is, remove the hose at the t stat , you'll loose a bit of coolant, but than take that hose , flex it back into a funnel and use a shop vac reversed ,to blow air through the lines , this method will drain a majority of the coolant.

 

[GoHiSK1]

Went back and reread all the recent posts and did see that DITCH1000 did post running temps before and after the BRP mod.
I have witnessed the exact same readings on my 2013 PRO after the BRP Mod.
The following information is from back to back running conditions within about 2 hrs. and the same air temps. and the same snow conditions.
With Stock Polaris set up engine temps running in 6-8 inches of fresh snow are between 125 and 137+ F.
With the BRP setup the temps are showing 105 to 109 and holding steady.
Very little fluctuation even after repeated short full throttle runs.
I can verify what TRS and GEO have said about cool engine coolant temps and improved engine performance.
My sled is a totally different animal. Can now hang skies even with the 174x3" track . Not like a short track Ski Doo but have never experienced this on my Polaris Pro before.

 

[GoHiSK1]

A little history on my 2013 PRO 163 .
Ran sled 3 days totally stock . Was very happy with how it performed compared to my 2011 or my 2012
Next 5 day ride I installed a 174x3 track and Avid extrovert drivers. (was torn between Turbo or a RKTek 858 )
Sled worked very well compared to stock 2013 Pros and XM sleds.
Took delivery of Silber Turbo and ordered a 858 RK Tek big bore.
Road a 2012 174x3 Silber turbo last year and was about 90 % Happy
After last years turbo experience and mostly steep and deep tree riding I thought I would like the instant throttle response of a naturally aspirated engine.
Had the 858 on order but did not take delivery before my next 5 day mountain trip so I added a SLP pipe setup and PCV .
Engine performed VERY well and was happy.
As luck would have it the 858 was delivered when i was away on mountain trip.
Installed the 858 and a FTX motor plate kit . Only put 10 miles on sled here in SASK. with the 858 engine mod. Was not blown away with the performance but was reading about $28.00 coolant kit since this thread started. Was skeptical as it seemed like the PRO was running the best it could with the HP that Polaris had provided us with.
Like I stated in my previous post the BRP mod has me now been a believer .
Turbo is still in the box and for sale
Am headed out West to the mountains in 4.5 hrs. and will report on the performance of both the 858 and the BRP mod.
Good night all .

 

[pus1100]

give us a good ride report on the 858 with TRS thermostat mod.are there anyone running their 2013 PROS against/with 2013 std rmk?I rearly see anyone post how their std runs.my std 2013 runs very consistent,rpms and temps are steady.my 2011 PRO was not.wonder if the VIPEC guys are seeing this in the stock ECU?

 

[rmscustom]

Is it possible that this will have a negative effect on engine life running 20 degrees cooler than it was intended to?

 

[beamslayer]

I believe by running cooler the ecu would be adding more fuel and probable adjusting timing to compensate . Also a colder engine will stay more consistent as in expansion of cylinder and pistons .
Thanks TRS
Waiting on my parts to arrive and trying to locate a tee ,hopeful that this will get rid of my bog issue also.

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

Is there anyone who has one apart who could measure the t-stat rubber size? I'm at work for another two weeks so i can't, but ordering up the parts so its ready when i am. I'm thinking an o ring would work just the same there instead of an aluminum washer.

If that's a bad idea what size does the aluminum washer need to be?