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BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPGRADE (PREVIOUSLY $28 upgrade)

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Thanx TRS.
Marginal is good as long as it is enough. I find my sled balances out about 133 to 140 (I'm good with that) crawlin`in the trees in this spring type weather. Last year my PC HCR (short front cooler) never did. It would continue to climb in temp and then I had to dig in. Friends following were unhappy lol.
I believe the difference is the greater amount of heat sink (material that carries the heat away from the coolers) available for the Pro coolers. `Bin watching and feeling for that lately (cause I intend to improve on this next year, extra ccs will need extra cooling lol).
Did you know that the rear bumper brackets are part of the cooling system lol. Have a "feel" lol.

I was thinking of removing the thermostat for spring (and replacing with the "correct" washer). Did you try that TRS?
Also does this set-up eliminate the "coolant spike" at full load? My sled will climb to 131-133 (and stay there 'til I back out) quickly at full load in deep snow and it is not a lack of snow on the coolers issue. It's like there is a "short-circuit" during full coolant flow in the head?? The rest of the time she is quite happy at 125.

I definately will be do what you have done here for next early season riding. You just saved me some weight and money lol.

I have not witnessed the coolant spike at full load in deep snow.
The spring type snow conditions, that is a question I can not answer at this time. And to be honest, I hope that is a few months away.
We removed the thermostats in the 08-09 Dragons and replaced it with an aluminium washer with a .750" hole. I played with differant restriction sizes. With the 08-09 mapping they ran better and had a much longer life. An added benifit was less ice on the running boards.
The mapping in the Pro does not like coolant temps below 98F. The mapping also seems to have a negative effect when coolant temps get north of 129F. The e-tec configuration is keeping it within these parameters.
 
Nice work TRS. I've been too lazy to do this, still have my t-stat to try. I've been testing some other stuff.

You are correct about the stock bypass hole in the t-stat. I have been adding 2 additional bypass holes to the stock t-stat and notice less temp swings on start-ups since.

I have added additional holes also. It was better, but I am trying to find a solution.
I would bet this motor would benifit from a head cover with an outlet for each cyl. and a rail?
 
I also tried a 110F thermostat. It's a drop in out of a quicksilver outboard @$38.00.
I modified it with larger bypass holes. It was not the improvement I was looking for.
 
I also tried a 110F thermostat. It's a drop in out of a quicksilver outboard @$38.00.
I modified it with larger bypass holes. It was not the improvement I was looking for.
Do you have the part number for this? I would like to try it on my IQr
Thanks,
Neil
 
No thermostat

Thinking of removing my thermostat all together. Do you need to run a washer as a restrictor? or is wide open ok if you get close to the temps mentioned earlier?

I'm hitting temps of low 140's while in deep snow at speed, I'm thinking the tstat might be sticking closed a bit.
 
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slow speed riding

I bought the 13 Pro this fall as I am needing hip joint replacement and it was the only sled that I could comfortably ride (came off a Skidoo). Because of my hip I find that I cannot always ride at speed due to the rough terrain. My Pro will show a steady 127* at speed but when slowed down it will run 165 to 175 with scratchers down. Sometimes when moving to different areas on the mountain I have seen over 185*. I stop and pile snow on the tunnel to help cool it down. I am always worried about it being so hot, but its either ride it hot or leave it sit in the shop.
TRS , do you think this thermostat mod will help keep my sled cooler at the sustained slower speeds that I sometimes need to travel at ?
 
I bought the 13 Pro this fall as I am needing hip joint replacement and it was the only sled that I could comfortably ride (came off a Skidoo). Because of my hip I find that I cannot always ride at speed due to the rough terrain. My Pro will show a steady 127* at speed but when slowed down it will run 165 to 175 with scratchers down. Sometimes when moving to different areas on the mountain I have seen over 185*. I stop and pile snow on the tunnel to help cool it down. I am always worried about it being so hot, but its either ride it hot or leave it sit in the shop.
TRS , do you think this thermostat mod will help keep my sled cooler at the sustained slower speeds that I sometimes need to travel at ?

I don't think it will. If you are not traveling fast enough to throw snow up into the tunnel it will not cool.
Have someone follow along side of you and see where the snow is going.
You may try a hillclimb flap that lays on the snow. It should let the track carry the snow to the coolers instead of thrown out the back.
 
Thinking of removing my thermostat all together. Do you need to run a washer as a restrictor? or is wide open ok if you get close to the temps mentioned earlier?

I'm hitting temps of low 140's while in deep snow at speed, I'm thinking the tstat might be sticking closed a bit.

I would pull the thermostat and check what temp it opens. Put it in water on the stove with a thermometer. Turn it on high and watch the thermometer to see when the thermostat opens. Check the bypass hole in the thermostat, some were plugged.
 
I have received PM's that Snowesters have not been finding the reducing tee at NAPA. I called my NAPA store today to get the part number. I found out that it was a miss-packaged part, that's why it was on the shelf. I must apologize for this misinformation.
The BRP tee is an option or a 1"tee using a 90 degree hose with 1" on one end and 3/4" on the other.
 
So how does this kit compare to the stock pro on running temps??? What are guys seeing when riding??? Might start ordering parts tomorrow for this.
 
I installed this last weekend and my temps are still high, we had to ride about 3 miles across hard pack to get from sea level to where we go straight up to 2200 feet to play in the good stuff, even with scratchers down I was overheating also temps outside where warm though at about 36 degrees, had to stop several times to break up some crusty snow to throw on the tunnel as I was hitting up to 190.
 
I am having the same experience, I really don't see much difference from the stock set up
 
C'mon guys I said marginal snow not concrete. If you are hitting 190 the scratchers can't be throwing anything on the rear coolers. Your boat motor doesn't run cool in your driveway either.

The thermostat is in the housing.
 
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I installed this last weekend and my temps are still high, we had to ride about 3 miles across hard pack to get from sea level to where we go straight up to 2200 feet to play in the good stuff, even with scratchers down I was overheating also temps outside where warm though at about 36 degrees, had to stop several times to break up some crusty snow to throw on the tunnel as I was hitting up to 190.

what about in good snow, how was your temp then thats more what everyone is looking at on hard pack its the cooleers not getting cooled down but in the pow thats not a prob how are the temps in the powder
 
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