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2016 low speed belt chatter

ZR 6000 said:
A 5/16-24x1 screw with a round point should be an easy fix, below is a pic of a rocker arm adjuster unfortunately it's a 3/8-24 with a 5/16 ball, I'm thinking this could work.

CRN99802-2.jpg
Click to expand...

If those are steel I don't think they will improve on the stock bolt.
 
arctic2009 said:
You can adjust deflection by adding shims, they will just be a bigger ID than the shims used for alignment. It would take a lot of shims but it actually can be done. One question, did you compare the weight of the derlin end and bolt to the old adjuster? The sheaves are balanced with the deflection adjuster in it. Your new adjuster may throw them out of balance. Not knocking your idea just pointing out the possibility.

I'm guessing if you found a clutch that hadn't been used in reverse yet, those marks wouldn't be on that plate...
Click to expand...

No. You can't shim there because that hub and back sheave move in and out on the shaft. So if there were Shims like you're suggesting they would jump around on the shaft because they would not have constant pressure on them. Those shims would likely screw up the shaft pretty quick and maybe also the bushing on the sheave hub.

Also I think you're off with the reverse being the scratch maker. The scratch is happening when the clutch closes and the bolt touches. The scratch is in direction of the helix closing. I have use reverse twice on this sled. About 6' of reverse.
 
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ACMtnCat said:
No. You can't shim there because that hub and back sheave move in and out on the shaft. So if there were Shims like you're suggesting they would jump around on the shaft because they would not have constant pressure on them. Those shims would likely screw up the shaft pretty quick and maybe also the bushing on the sheave hub.

Also I think you're off with the reverse being the scratch maker. The scratch is happening when the clutch closes and the bolt touches. The scratch is in direction of the helix closing. I have use reverse twice on this sled. About 6' of reverse.
Click to expand...



Make a shim that is the exact size thickness you need, and use some light silicone on one edge so it touches the other shims used for alignment. The shaft is hardened, so I highly doubt some shims will cause any problems. But if you insist, make one large shim out of derlin that has a slip fit on the shaft. either way, taking the deflection adjuster completely out isn't ideal, since the sheave is balanced with that in... but to each their own. Guys will ride their sleds for thousands of miles with no issues of wearing through that plate.
 
So to add to the confusion, today's ride I didn't hear any noise, none

since the last ride all I did was remove a bolt from MDS weights to get rpm up, put on 083 belt just to try, was running stock 084

I also took secondary apart just to inspect the area where deflection bolt rubs and put it back together exactly as it was

from start of ride no noise from secondary, 10 miles into ride I changed back to 084 as 083 cost me to many rpm

rest of ride was in trees, pretty deep powder for this time of year, none of that slow speed screech sound, I don't know why:juggle:
 
just thinking out loud but could you not create something like the old shift assist (like a skinny bearing) so that it rolls instead of scratching?
 
Guys, guys, guys

"What you need here is some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads." - Fletch

I've been following this thread all week and maybe this isn't the place for for this comment but if she's dry and tight maybe a little lube is in order.:eyebrows:

I'm only half joking. The old farmer in my dad said that things that rub need oil so he wd-40's his clutches daily and consistently gets 5000-6000 miles out of the stock (insert 4 letter word here) Cat clutches on his 500cc and 580cc. I'm not as religious about it and get about 3500-5000 miles on my 500cc and 800cc and my brother runs his 600cc dry and gets 2500 miles. There are lots of variables here like hp, plains vs mountain, stock vs TEAM. What do you think?

Only chiming in here because I'm looking hard at upgrading to an M8000 with the TEAM clutches.
 
Took two hours yesterday to try a bunch of combinations of alignment shims vs deflection adjustments vs two deflection bolts and even a aftermarket belt. The two deflection bolt theory didn't pan out. I tried 15 different adjustments with very little differences in any of them.

Best results came from cleaning the shaft and orange bushings really good, going back to .150" shim stack, tight belt deflection with the derlin tip bolt making the belt/primary sqweel slightly at idol.

This combo had very little of the squawk noise. Almost acceptable, accept for two really weird down hill costing clutch engagements. Costing 15 mph and the clutches engaged and the rpms went to 8300 without me applying any throttle. Blipped the throttle to get it to jump out and it would not. Kinda bad sounding!

Final thoughts are, derlin tip will keep metal shavings from flying around in the clutch and make it last longer with less noise. I'm going to ride this combo and see where it goes in a couple hundred miles.
 
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So what is the correct method to adjust the secondary OFFSET on these new 2016 Team Boss Secondaries? Do you not need to move the WHOLE secondary either inwards or outwards to do this?
 
Turboskickbutt said:
So what is the correct method to adjust the secondary OFFSET on these new 2016 Team Boss Secondaries? Do you not need to move the WHOLE secondary either inwards or outwards to do this?
Click to expand...

The offset is set by those shims in-between the clutch half's. The inside sheave will adjust to the front sheave by setting the deflection.
 
Wish I knew if, when and what the fix will be. I have just over 1 mile on mine so I would like to fix mine before that plate gets too chewed. I think the ideal fix is add 2 more adjusters evenly spaced from the original and delrin tip all of them... That should eliminate any wobble in the sheaths while spreading the load so the delrin tips and plate wear slower. Perhaps an interm fix is run a second adjuster in the belt tool hole?
 
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