Plasma is the way to go, I don't happen to have one though. (Been out of town for 4 days.)
Kool...I can borrow one from work. I have my footwell vents to put on and my Better Boards should be here next week....I know what I am going to use.....
2009 Dragon 8 163" has arrived
- Thread starter Ron
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Exhaust side
Finished removing foam & adding aluminum tape to the exhaust side. I also decided to remove the aluminum baffle & foam on the side panel, weight savings 1 lb 5 oz. First pic shows the belly pan with the aluminum tape & shock tower vent.
Second pic the side panel.
Third pic the area with SLP can in place, also shows footrest vent & shock tower vent. Approx. 1.5" between can & side panel should be adequate.
Finished removing foam & adding aluminum tape to the exhaust side. I also decided to remove the aluminum baffle & foam on the side panel, weight savings 1 lb 5 oz. First pic shows the belly pan with the aluminum tape & shock tower vent.
Second pic the side panel.
Third pic the area with SLP can in place, also shows footrest vent & shock tower vent. Approx. 1.5" between can & side panel should be adequate.
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Ron
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I don't really know, bought a big roll at Home Depot in the HVAC section couple of years ago.
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Ron
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If not check with a local Heating/AC Co.
Sled looks super nice,like the 2cool dash vent and SLP hiflo airhorn,also gonna have to get some of those Carls cycle knee vents.Thanks for the how to on hood foam removal.I'll be bringing home a CO2 cylinder from work to get the hood foam good and cold.Always wondered where to get the heat tape,thought about Summit Racing but It's gotta be alot cheaper at Home Depot,Thanks Pete
Ron,
I've melted a side panel after removing the aluminum guard on that side..
Took a fall after a long hard pull and seld rested on the side panel... pushed the side panel against the muffler and melted thru... I had heat tape on there..
This year I'll be running a better heat shield material on there... those sidepanels are abit pricey!!
This stuff does not hold water and is good for direct contact at 1700 deg F... cuts easily and has the adhesive already on it!
Link to the 24" x 21" Insulation
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI%2D050501
Link to the 48" x 21" insulation
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI%2D050502
DEI insulation material
I've melted a side panel after removing the aluminum guard on that side..
Took a fall after a long hard pull and seld rested on the side panel... pushed the side panel against the muffler and melted thru... I had heat tape on there..
This year I'll be running a better heat shield material on there... those sidepanels are abit pricey!!
This stuff does not hold water and is good for direct contact at 1700 deg F... cuts easily and has the adhesive already on it!
Link to the 24" x 21" Insulation
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI%2D050501
Link to the 48" x 21" insulation
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI%2D050502
DEI insulation material
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Ron
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Eric,
Looks like some good stuff, with more than one use.
I just checked my 09 & can't get the side panel near the muffler-must be more clearance now. My side panel has support ridges that make it hard to bend more than about 1/2". Just for insurance I put the center screw back in the panel with some small stainless washers. This will act as a bumper & it centers right on the middle of the exhaust canister. Anyway thanks for the heads up, I hadn't thought of that possibility.
Looks like some good stuff, with more than one use.
I just checked my 09 & can't get the side panel near the muffler-must be more clearance now. My side panel has support ridges that make it hard to bend more than about 1/2". Just for insurance I put the center screw back in the panel with some small stainless washers. This will act as a bumper & it centers right on the middle of the exhaust canister. Anyway thanks for the heads up, I hadn't thought of that possibility.
Ron,
I've melted a side panel after removing the aluminum guard on that side..
Took a fall after a long hard pull and seld rested on the side panel... pushed the side panel against the muffler and melted thru... I had heat tape on there..
This year I'll be running a better heat shield material on there... those sidepanels are abit pricey!!
This stuff does not hold water and is good for direct contact at 1700 deg F... cuts easily and has the adhesive already on it!
Link to the 24" x 21" Insulation
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI%2D050501
Link to the 48" x 21" insulation
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI%2D050502
DEI insulation material
Is there still a weight savings using this product over the stock sheid?
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Ron
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Since I was removing the stock exhaust & venting the sled it's not all about weight. Getting rid of water absorbing foam was my primary goal.
You can remove the stock foam & put back the aluminum heat shield (1lb) after putting the aluminum on the side panel if concerned about burning the panel. The 08/09 panel has reinforcement so it's not flimsy like one on a Doo.
Another option is to remove the shield attached to the stock canister & glue it to the side panel using hi temp silicone ($40 cheaper). You can also buy an insulated AL tape (SLP) like the material noted by MH & apply a strip to any area too close to the exhaust.
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I found 3 companies making aluminum insulation materials.
DEI insulation material Good for 450 contact and 1750 reflective
aluminum with sticky backing.
2 feet x 2 feet is around $50 delivered
Lydall Thermal Acoustical ZEROCLEARANCE in-tack 3/16 inch thick.
Aluminum the loose fiberglass with sticky backing Good for 450 contact (glue looses cohesiveness) and 1700 reflective
My only concern is it might hold water.
2 feet x 2 feet is around $20 delivered
Low-e Good for 180-220 direct contact and 300 at 1 inch plus 450 reflective
aluminum closed cell polyethylene then aluminum. no adhesive. Similar stuff that was already on the sled from the factory but thinner/lighter/closed cell foam 1/4 thick.
4 feet x 10 feet $40 delivered.
DEI insulation material Good for 450 contact and 1750 reflective
aluminum with sticky backing.
2 feet x 2 feet is around $50 delivered
Lydall Thermal Acoustical ZEROCLEARANCE in-tack 3/16 inch thick.
Aluminum the loose fiberglass with sticky backing Good for 450 contact (glue looses cohesiveness) and 1700 reflective
My only concern is it might hold water.
2 feet x 2 feet is around $20 delivered
Low-e Good for 180-220 direct contact and 300 at 1 inch plus 450 reflective
aluminum closed cell polyethylene then aluminum. no adhesive. Similar stuff that was already on the sled from the factory but thinner/lighter/closed cell foam 1/4 thick.
4 feet x 10 feet $40 delivered.
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The DEI above has the ADHESIVE good for 450 degrees...
The face is good for 1750 of direct heat.....
They make different materials... the good ones cost money.
They DO make a product called "Reflect a Cool" that has lower temps rating..BUT that is made of mylar.... like many products out there..
I have used the DEI stuff against the catalytic converters on mod NOS pumped Vettes that were glowing red... pretty good stuff.
The face is good for 1750 of direct heat.....
They make different materials... the good ones cost money.
They DO make a product called "Reflect a Cool" that has lower temps rating..BUT that is made of mylar.... like many products out there..
I have used the DEI stuff against the catalytic converters on mod NOS pumped Vettes that were glowing red... pretty good stuff.
Nice looking! I still like the TCP bumper a lot more than the 2009 Polaris bumper. It was pricey but Carl's installed it so it looks close to factory and it is way stronger than the 09 bumper. Going with Carl's porting, head work and ECU mod this year along with everything that was on it last year. I liked the 860 but too much $ for me this time. I am also putting SLP Powder Pros and the new 2.86" by 2.5" Camoplast Challenger Extreme track on it. I did not like the stock 08 track in spring snow much and I rode an 08 with Powder Pros and they made a big difference in handling ability.
935.... Post up some pix already!!!
yes we need some pics 935!!!
here is my 155..still trying to find a way to install hand guards
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Hood fit
Took some pic's so that you can get an idea on why some hoods don't fit properly. Excuse the crappy pic's should have used my good camera. The hood hinge assembly rivets to the new bumper (see pic's earlier) & is mounted back too far on mine & at a slight angle. This is going to be tough to get exact but I am going to pull the bumper, heliarc the holes closed and reposition the mount.
Left side
Right side
Took some pic's so that you can get an idea on why some hoods don't fit properly. Excuse the crappy pic's should have used my good camera. The hood hinge assembly rivets to the new bumper (see pic's earlier) & is mounted back too far on mine & at a slight angle. This is going to be tough to get exact but I am going to pull the bumper, heliarc the holes closed and reposition the mount.
Left side
Right side
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Another tip, Carl's repositioned the carb clamps on my sled to vertical for easier access. I pulled the foam from around the air horns but they are loose so I may put it back. SLP says to leave the horns in place unlike in prior years with carbs.
Pic 2 is a Powder Pro ski with the Carl's cut at the rear....makes for easier counter steering. I run the Powders until spring snow & then switch back to the stock ones that are less agressive.
Pic 3 is an alternative to the phillips screw holding the side panel in place. I found some rubber gromets with the same thread pattern. Some use wingnut bolts...either way you can remove the side panel with your fingers rather than finding a screw driver.
Pic 2 is a Powder Pro ski with the Carl's cut at the rear....makes for easier counter steering. I run the Powders until spring snow & then switch back to the stock ones that are less agressive.
Pic 3 is an alternative to the phillips screw holding the side panel in place. I found some rubber gromets with the same thread pattern. Some use wingnut bolts...either way you can remove the side panel with your fingers rather than finding a screw driver.
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