OK now listen up, cause this is funny; And I quote ::
Here's my suggestions, and advice on why our 4 XP's are wicked bad sleds:
#1. BELT Issues: IMHO the biggest issue is how you break it in and SECONDARY adjustment. We have (3) 154's and (1) 146 with a total of about 450 miles, NO blown belts, let me repeat NO blown belts. I feel this is why; Beforethe first ride, took both sets of belts and scrubbed them down in soapy water and dried overnight. First ride BABIED the throttle for the first 5 miles always feathering the rpm NEVER going over 7000 rpm - I believe this to be critical. Then we stopped for 10 minutes, opened the panels and let the clutches kool off. Then we went another 5 miles, and feathered up to 8000 rpm, again NEVER pinning it. Again, stopped after another 5 miles, adjusted secodary if needed, opened panels and waited 10 minutes. Last 5 miles (to 15 now), we would pin it for 3 - 4 seconds and keep feathering the thriottle, stop open panels, adjust and kool off, after that ........ Rode it like a $1000 hooker. On the way out on the first ride, we swapped belts to the new one and repeated the process on the way out. I know 140 miles is not alot to brag about belt wear, but I was full throttle for 1 FULL miles at 90 mph after this break in and the belt looks PERFECT.
Grab a hand full of white 166 belts and check the OD, most are well under 1.5", the new 377 belt is a true 1.5"....this is the bigger issue with so many burning belts, besides alignment and the prp/prp spring wont make a full shift, the prp/pnk spring with 21ish grams is much much better. Proper belt break in if for old timers who have no clue. A 90MPH XP huh?......sounds like you need to re-gear for the mtns poser.
#2 Along with the break in above, Attention the new secondary is paramount. Yes it might be a PITA, but there are some things that are a MUST for your belt. Always ensure your belt deflection is set at the top of the cord even with the top of the sheave (top of the notch bottom). If the sled feels like its dragging you down, STOP! and check your primary, you will see a black mark in the center, ADJUST the seconday to as stated above. Another point, the plastic center nut needs attention almost each time you stop for awhile, Again, this is an issue, but you can over come it by just being proactive and checking it and adjusting it. We found we were not tightening the center fitting enuf, (but don't CRANK it down!) and the belt deflection would change as we rode, hence, belt would wear bad, adjusted it, and walla issue gone.
True, but you need a good belt to do this, many white 166 belts are to narrow....ask around
None the less, no TRA can handle a 15 min WOT at 10MPH......i tried and failed
#3. Yes you need some type of clutch side venting. For now, I have removed the shock tower button plug, and cutout the small triangle section of the panel and covered with screen. We also drilled (7) 1/2 inch holes at the foot rest spot in the panels to exit hot air, and of course you must remove that damn clutch cover plastic piece of garbage.
Clutch venting is waaaaaaaaay over rated, although i have tons on vents on my sleds, some think venting is the ticket, proper clutching and alignment needs to be done first, my 06 summit has a cooler clutch with the sec in .05 away from BRPs suggested numbers
#4. Gearing change will help, but (2) of the 154's are being ridden by 210-240 lb doods WITHOUT a gear swap, and they have no issues either.
the 154 really really needs a 19 top gear......but im sure a bootlicker trail rider like yourself wont notice, the 163 is fine
#5. Now the fun part, QUIT worrying about the performance until you hit about the 100 mile mark, when It wakes up,OMFG!! Its like a different sled, exrtemely fast and one of the most impressive mid-ranges I have ever rode. At first I could not go past 60mph, later that day when it changed,It pulled hard to 90.
#6. Once you hit this break-in sweet spot, NOW you can clutch, IMO you are going to need to put BACK in the 2 gms of primary pin weight DOO had your dealers take out, I had our dealer leave both Jo's 146 and my
i have 19 grams and really need 22ish at 10K, the stock helix is junk (42 straight).....the doo 44/33 is the best they offer, i like it......but a DJ helix will be the wicked ticket, gonna install it this weekend
#7. Forgot about the secodary/Oil issue. On the maiden breakin rides, I packed along a roll of paper towels and alcohol. When BRP did the chaincase/breather update and changed out the chaincase cover, many sleds came with the fresh oil spilt under the motor. During the course of first rides, MANY if not most all of the riders didnt wipe this up, BRP mistake yes, but you can cover their azz by cleaning this up during each 5 mile stop, we did, after the 15 mile stop,no more oil. And none on the belt.
#8. Cut Your secondary Cog. The slots are in the secondary center cog, the "black" plastic piece that you adjust your belt deflection, loosen the inner aluminum nipple and take out the whole thing, you will see the slots that are not cut completely, take out the "O" ring, cut the four slots carefully with a hacksaw, put back the "O" and re-install and tighten the nipple down firm but DON't strip it
Agreed
End of Quote.
Thats it, all done , then you'll have the best STOCK,...out of the box Sled on the market.
Now c'mon, admit it, thats making everyone LTFAO, I mean those who aren't lucky enuff to own one.
