04 Summit Rebuild w/ T Motion install

[wildcard28]

Hey BCB, could you post some pic of the slices you did on the lugs of your track after doin the track break mod, or send me some and I`ll post them if you don`t mind.

Want to see what you done and see if its the same idea I have been thinkin about. Thanks Bob

Haven`t actually broke the track yet but will be doo-in it this weekend, Lol

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello wanted to share some pic I haven`t posted any in awhile so here is my New Mountain Addiction Track Rack System I went with just the big shallow 6.5inch tall tunnel bag but kinda wish I would of went with the 8inch tall bag this set up is awesome its cool that before a ride I can have the tunnel bag easily removed and pack it in the house with what I want and night before depending on how cold it is (don`t want the drinks to freeze lol) put in on the sled or put it on morning headed out for a ride. hold alot of stuff and compacts everythin better and stuff don`t move around as much. I like it alot.

I have been out on 2 rides with this system and love it, also got a second shovel like the one shown just black for this bag and carry the one pictured in my backpack. the bigger scoop Voile shovel or Doo shovel is kinda tight in the straps on the bag so the slightly smaller shovel works just as good.

Here is a link to the web site I purchase most all my stuff from, Firstplacepart.com http://www.firstplaceparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BASK&Store_Code=FPP
Mountain Addiction these product are so handy and love the workmanship

Easy cable and kodder pic that is attached and comes with the set up keeps bag from coming off but does fit fairly tight to start with

Inside storage has a storage pocted oposite of the drink straps that holds a bunch of powerbars or candy bars etc, I no longer carry my 3rd extra belt in the bag it is mounted up front with original extra belt area, never used that many out riding but like to have a couple extras ya never know.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

This is where I carry my extra belts I now have a cool single handcuff type clamp I got from Walmart that clamps the top belt to the where the original spard mounts If my sled has I headlight wouldn`t be able to put the belt here

Also cut my windshield down hope it looks good.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Sorry but still haven`t had the time to break the track rods with the tool I built but I will definetly be doing it this weekend along with the Backcountrybob Lug Slice Mod!!
don`t see a problem with slicin the lug down to the top of the fiber rod area making the lug itself more flexable

here is a pic BCB sent me of the Doo track lug slice he has done I will be doin this the the Poo track I have on my sled my lugs are actually not as wide as th doo track so I beleive the Poo track will flex more maybe, Don`t see a problem with this cause a Finger track has small outer seperate lugs on the outside of the track belt along with the Powerclaw also but I know that design is more beefy lugs.

Pretty simple Idea he has bet it work pretty well. Thanks Bob!!

will post pics of my track tool and some details of breakin the track mod.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Got one side of my track broke today, already know its gonna make a difference as your doing this mod you really notice how much more flexable the track gets as you go pitch by pitch. the BCB stage II lug slice will help flex to allowing the lug to seperate apart above where the fiber rods are broke makin the track just that much more flexable.

Good Idea BCB!!!

Doin the other side tomorrow and will post info and pic

with all the mods, narrow front, Tmo, this sled is already incredibly easy to layover on hard ground you can layit over by almost breathin on it literally, Lol the flextrack and Stage II lug slice is gonna be great.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Sorry haven`t posted pics of now the complete track break and BCB stage II lug slice mod my phototbucket isn`t workin correctly since they switched to a new site layout it a POS and slow doesn`t ever show all on any page and can`t post pic, I hate it when site switch things around I know they are trying to upgrade but just get used to something and they change crap around. Lol

Both sides of the track are broke and was time consuming but pretty easy to do after you do about 5-6 lugs you get the feels to where the drill bit just goes thru the fiber rod and each rod whether its a open pitch or one with a lug breaks pretty easy after you get the 5 or 6 done first really get the feel of it, works best to put a board between the track and the hyfax about the same thickness of the sag in the track and afer drilling pry the outside of the track up then down you can hear a Snap every time and on the down pry some fiber crackleing amazing how much more flexable the track is after done and with the series 4 Poo track I have its more flexable than the doo track cause the outside lugs are not as long or big.

neat mod just need to get out and ride it, I don`t think so but doubt it will be by the end of this season.

Wildcard.

 

[wildcard28]

New Top End time, SHR!!

Hello everyone last couple rides I have notice my sled running rough and motor kinda shaky when idleing and last few rides out was havin a hardtime getting the sled to go into RER and when after shutting off after a climb would take about 4-5 good pull to start. but on the throttle and haulin azz on the trail back to the truck pulled impressively hard and was hitting rpm just right and pulled good. amazing how it ran on the top with 50lbs compression gone in one cyl.

buddy and I ran a compression test and got 95lbs PTO cyl and 145 Mag cyl, CRAP checked out a few possible smaller problems and wasn`t it so I took the head off and the top of the piston looked good then pulled the cans off and put the rings down in the cylinders and the PTO cyl top ring was way out of round and there ya go, Sled had previously a Weisco piston top end just under 700 miles on it suposidly before I purchased the sled I have put about 1000miles on it . I decided to just order a set of Weisco rings and run it for the rest of the season and then put a piston top end kit in it Prefereably a SHR or possibly a SPI or MCB piston kit. Never installed the stock bore Wiseco piston so have a set of new ones if anyone is interested.

I as was wiping and cleaning the pistons off and going to install the new Weisco piston rings I unfortunetly noticed the big chuck of the land between the dual ring broke out of the piston right at the exhaust port. ****..

so I called Big John and am goin with a his dual ring piston set and a thicker basegasket mod and shaved head. going to call him in the morning and send my top end to him. so he can check out the cylinders, doesn`t appear or look like the coating is hurt or and feelable grooves in the coating just want him to look it over give me his opinion and advice and possibly hone and set the ring gap for me while he has them there so I can put it back together

will eventually send him my MPEM and have it reflashed if he recomends that.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello everyone, Got news on my engine project, Now SHR project!!!

Been emailing and chatting with Big John at Sled Head racing and good news after him checkin everything out for me the cylinders and nikasil is in good shape and still goin his with the his piston kit, basegasket mod and head shave and after email chatting and him and him patiently answering a bunch of questions for me, Thanks Again John. I have decided to go with his 800ho Trail Torquer 150hp kit, which includes everything from our original deal and now adds Cylinder Porting, better reed spacer, rave valve spring, and a few other component. Can`t wait to hear this baby run and ride it again!!!

Before the start of next season I`ll get an HPS can and dynoport Y pipe that John recommends to go with this kit and add some extra ponies.


Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

I have had all my motor parts back from SHR for awhile now.the Porting work look Awesome very miticulous and precise work!! A few weeks after I got the parts back I decided to just pull the shortblock out of the chassis and split the cases to check the crank out and see if any of the crankseal had been leaking since you can`t seen the Mag side seal unless you remove the engine.

After splitting the cases there was a residue of isoflex coming from the Mag seal not really a lot or bit deal but the PTO side seal came off the crank in two pieces, the middle lip with the inner spring had rotted away from the rest of the seal and actually after removing the primary with the ole teflon tape and oil down the crank stub and hit it with the airgun trick to remove the primary works awesome I have done this about 4 times now on 3 different engines. anyway after removing the primary the plate that goes over the PTO bearing the plate was covered in black grease, belt fibers and just muck.

after splitting the cases I started to spin the mag bearing and they feel smoothe along with the middle bearing but the middle bearing have a touch of side to side movement but the outer crankbearing was rough and kinda sloppy feeling and there was hardly any isoflex in any of the outside bearings

So I have been checking around for good prices on a Reman 800ho crank or a good place to send it to have it rebuilt, maybe I could just have the outer bearings pressed on not sure yet.

Gonna give John an email or call see how much to check the crank out or rebuild it, will see.

I`ll post more progress when I know more.

Also lookin for a good deal on a good used HPS Can and some Black side panels and possible bumper.

Thanks, Darren

 

[wildcard28]

Update on project, Last week I received my reman crankshaft from doctorcrankshaft on ebay, after arival all looks good, all crank bearings were pre packed with Isoflex grease, has all Oring type bearings on it except the outer PTO bearins the inner one has the alignment pin hole and the outer one doesn`t most likely the outer race shouldn`t spin cause of the snapring on the outer bearing is tight around the bearing and probably locks into the case half securely but I`m going to put some locktite on the outer bearing race so it will glue or lock it into place when the cases go together to prevent any movement or possible spinning of the outer pto bearing.

After I purchased the crankshaft and was waiting for my crank to arive at his place I ordered off ebay also that crank seal and Isoflex kit offered by MBC really a good deal you get all the crank seals and a 50mg tube of Isoflex for $59 pretty good deal compared to the skidoo price of the seals alone, probably don`t need the Isoflex now since crank is already packed but I still gonna use some and pack a bit of Iso in the gap between the 2 outer pto bearings and a touch more to the outside of eack outer crank bearing before installing the seals and the case halves.

before comletely glueing the case halfs together I am goin set the crank in the cases and do a Run out test and measurement on the crank and let ya all know what tolerances it is at.

I also have on order a set of Alternative Impact Chromoly 37inch front A arms black in color Dan is covering the shipping charge since I will be giving him a deposit tomorrow and having the rest paid off by next week. Pretty good deal, I have already owned a set of his A arms before that were the stock 39.5 stance and they were light and the workmanship was awesome, I just sold them and them narrowed my own stock set and ended up with no shock relocate to a final stance of 35.5. I am after the lighter weight and more bendable a arms than the stockers to save the nun and bulkhead I have in this thread already showed all I have done to swap out a chassis cause of the sled previously having Nun and Bulkhead damage cause of a previous owner mishap, crash and layover.

Here is a link to Alternative Impacts website lost of cool products, This is the Chromoly Page where I have seen the 2 sets I have ordered now I just completed my Order over the Phone and Debit Card with Dan, great and nice guy to deal with. http://www.alternativeimpact.com/ski-doo cro-moly a-arms.htm

Will post pic soon, especialy when i start assemblying the SHR ported 800ho motor. http://www.sledheadracing.net/#!__products

If anyone is interested I will be selling the Narrowed stock A arms that are in good shape and have a final stance of 35.5 pm me or email me at wildcard282@hotmail.com if you are interested and we can work out a deal or trade, lookin for some Black Side panels at the moment.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello, Ordered a set of Alternative Impact chomoly 37inch A arms, Dan has a set black ones already on the shelf if anyone is interested in set already made up, along with a hammertone gray set I got the Gray ones. Gave him a Deposit on them Thursday and should have them paid off this coming Friday, excited to get them. Owned a set of his A arms before in the stock Yellow 39.5 stance and they were light and worked great, awesome workman ship.

Also will posting pic of putting my Engin back together next week.

I am also cleaning up the side panels and front bumper, gonna paint the side covers and front bumper 09` XP Summit X Blue and the hood and console white to simulate the awesome lookin 09` XP sled best lookin stock skidoo colors I have seen yet, will post pics soon. gonna have some parts powdercoated Blue also to dress it up like the front springs and adding blue ski loops to my already 6.9pilots.

This is what I am goin to base my color design off of, even ordered the Skidoo X side panel stickers along with the rear tunnel stickers that have the 163 on them will make a decal to cover the revxp part with the stock Rev pyramidal frame sticker like my sled has originaly along with the Tmotion stikers ahead of the tunnel stickers.

Should look pretty cool, since sled already has XP 2011 raised aluminum Freeride Handlebars and the XP skid etc..

Will get pics up realy soon.

Wildcard

 

[Goinboardin]

Crank bearings only spin (trench) the case when the bearing locks up. No amount of lock tight will hold it. Lock tight on the bearing race will take up some room, and put more crush on the bearing, so if you have a pounded out crank case, by all means, put some lock tight on it. But without measuring the case halve bores and measuring the OD of the crank bearings you can't be too sure. If your case is in good shape (not too tight and not too loose) lock tight will over-crush the bearings, which leads to friction/heat/premature failure. I'm not an expert, just trying to relay what I've gathered over the last few years of owning a Polaris (ha!) and maybe save you some trouble. You may want to give a SkiDoo engine guru a call and pick their brain a bit about case fit and the use of lock tight on crank bearings.

Nice build thread, always interesting to following projects.

 

[wildcard28]

Thanks for the Reply, my crank bearings didn`t lock up I actually only had the outer pto bearing felt a bit rough when I got the crank out not really that bad and the isoflex grease was all about gone and just not very thick black film on the outer bearings, If you wrapped your fingers around each middle bearing they had some twist play but not bad also, could of just changed the outer bearing and ran it but I wanted to be more thuro in this engine build.

I know my bearing didn`t spin in the cases, come to think of it the original crankbearings had alignment pins in all the bearings.

There are some dark lookin spots in the areas where the bearings set in the cases maybe they were chattering, or somethin I`m not sure. I`ll post some pic tomorrow to see what you all think.

Thanks, Wildcard

 

[Goinboardin]

Some play in the bearing itself is normal, necessary really. Different spec bearings have different amounts of play in them. C4 spec is "loose" and C3 is a little tighter. This doesn't mean a C3 is the better bearing, it will just work best in some engines/uses (trail vs race vs mtn vs etc) while the C4 works better in another engine/use.

Yeah if a bearing locked and spun in the case it would be obvious. I'm probably paranoid after dealing with poo motors, you're probably set to drop in the freshened up crank and ride.

 

[wildcard28]

Thanks goinboardin, Ya I`m sure everything will be ok was just a little concerned of the one outer bearing not haveing an O-ring or lock pin but sure when the cases are torqued together it shouldn`t move.

not sure how much of this thread you have read, ya I know it is pretty extentful Lol, but this motor Should be a strong runner with the Reman crank and the addition to the SHR 150hp+ Torquer Ported kit that Big John put together for me, shorter reed spacers, rave springs, thicker base gasket and shaved head, His pistons and gasket set and all the rest he done for me can`t wait to get her together and take for a spin. Hurry Up Winter!!!!

I have a smaller lighter J&T can I traded my bigger Dunoport figured I`d give it a try until I get the HPS I will have on it along with they dynoport Y Pipe John had recommended for a some more ponies.

I know what ya mean about bein scared about the Polaris Cranks, few friends of ours are in the same boat with all the crank trouble out there on the Polaris, but every make has there share or problems, Would be cool if Polaris added more bearing to the crank like Doo does a few I know really wish for this. Do you have a Pro or IQ ? I really like both those sleds I like any sled really.

This is what I found (Wiseco Pistons) after noticing engine wasn`t runnin all that great last couple rides wouldn`t idle took alot more pulls to get started when warmed up and after compression test had 50lbs less in the pto cylinder. Motor acually pulled pretty stong hard in the throttle was just idiling rough and couldn`t get the motor to to into Rer Reverse.

I split the cases to after seeing a bunch or black greasy residue all over the plate that hold the PTO crank seal in, was also getting a greasy black film on the LH side bulkhead inside and below of he clutch, probably what took the seal out finaly what a badly blown belt that jammed strands and fibers of the belt between the clutch and crankcase had to use scissors and plyers to get it all cut and pull out, was my second and last belt on that particular ride and had to tow the sled back a shortways on the road to the parkin area, no big deal there belts don`t like full throttle fast Hot days.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Here is another mod I am adding to my Engine project. Thermostat delete.

Going to gut the original thermostat and add a 3/4inch copper pipe cap with an 1/8inch hole drilled in it and this copper cap will be inserted in the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the coolant fill tank, this is exactly what Big John recommended I do after I asked him his thoughts on this mod.

Here is a pic of the gutted Stat and copper cap.

Cap in the Hose.

These aren`t my exact pic I saved them from the internet somewhere, but this is exactly what I am doin.

Wildcard

 

[Goinboardin]

Wow, that's a lot of missing piston! I'm surprised the debris didn't wreak havoc. I've had a cylinder low on compression and the motor still pulled up high, just bubbly at lower rpm. I have an Edge RMK but am parting it out and shopping for a new Doo. I'll sure miss mods though.

 

[wildcard28]

Hello Goinboardin, Ya thats a good piece gone, It luckily didn`t hurt anything the Nikasil was in good shape and couldn`t find any pieces in the crankcase ,actually the biggest reason why I good the bottom end apart, glad I did or I wouldn`t of noticed the crankbearing probs.

Its like you said it ran pretty well up high , climbed good and really hauled on the trail on the way home was in many lomg full throttle pulls, Actually had my riding buddy ride it to see if the clutching changes we made were noticeable to him also, after we were testing it was hitting RPM`s just like we wanted an pulling 8100 all day. but Idled bubbly, couldn`t get it to engage into RER when warm and when I`d shut if off warm had to pull it a good 5-6 good hard pulls to get it started, this sled has always been a 2 pull sled.

Hopefully with all the Engine work done will start easy 1 pull, my buddies mod tripple is the quickest starting sled motor I have ever seen and its 820BB and Ported, Crankshop pipes, tons of mods. like if you pull it thru one compression stroke Pow its fired up amazing 190hp. (780 tripple started out). Can`t wait till he finds Pipes for the 925cc top end he has ready to go on it.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Got my Alternative Impact 37inch A arms amd a set of MCB oil lite brass bushings and received the HPS can I purchased from bgsummit here on Snowest, fast shipping good guy (thanks you)..

Ordered from local dealer pair of new Upper Balljoints should be here next week, mine are getting a bit sloppy.

Here is a couple pics of the 37inch rev A arms, Black/Silver Hammer Coated, These are awesome lightweight and confident they will save the Nun and Bulkhead if I happen to hit something wrong, Narrow stance I already know helps these chassis`s.

Dan at Alternative Impact is a great guy to talk to and deal with, this is the second set of A arms I have purchased from him, after a good season and a half on first ones that were stock Summit stance (Yellow) I sold them the end of 2011 when skidoo came out with the S36 front end package So I decided to do my owns narrow front end experiment first and cut and shortened my stock Summit a arms to a total 35.5 inch stance was after a 36 but I didn`t relocate the stock shock position on the arms so I stood the shock up straigher and taller lifting the sled higher than expected and ended up with narrower stance than I figure but all way good, sled handles Way Better and Layed over in pretty much any condition snow. After riding that way up to the end of last Season like I planned I was going to purchase the AI narrow arms. Stock arms worked great. BUT the stock A Arms long or narrow are still Nun and Bulkhead Killers if you hit something wrong. and I already spend most the season before (covered on this thread swapping out a Bent Chassis and Nun. Extra bonus`s are the Weight loss and the flixability is greatly improved These arms have the shock location repositioned to maintain stock sled heigth and no added skid pressure etc..

Here is a Close up of the coating, I like it!! I am going to Powdercoat the Snow Eliminators and possibly the rear skid rails the same.

Here is a pic of the MCB oil lite brass bushing kit that will be installed with the A arms, the plastic skidoo bushings are Junk and constantly wear out and caust excessive slop in the arms, check yours out I bet they have slack to some of the bushing are worn way thin or pretty much gone. Purchased off Ebay/ good deal.

Here is a pic of The HPS Can I got a great deal on. / 4.6lbs $110 Shipped. Thanks Again bgsummit!!

Going to start the Assembly of the Engine in this weekend will post assembly info and pic on that Project.

Wildcard.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

How many are running the SLP Highflow intake on there Rev`s?

I have always seen pics but thought it was just the aluminum vent in theoutside of the side panel, but after watchin all or Louie from Power Mods vids on The Ultimate Rev 700 build over on Dootalk I seen him installing the kit and you actually cut a corner section of the airbox out and install a special shaped scoop or shroud from the cut air box area to the area you install the outer aluminum vent and it funnels more air from the rear of the side panel into the airbox looked like a really cool addition.

Here is a link to the post on Louie`s build installing the SLP Intake kit. Its episode #35 of all the vids on his thread.
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/540557-700-rev-build-the-ultimate-info-thread/page-8

I`m also going to add the front SLP motor torque arm in episode #34

I have always purchased most all my stuff Thru Firstplaceparts.com, best side I have found myself


After seeing this I beleive I not goin to run the pod filters and just install the 07`airbox`s back on I had before and install the SLP highflow kit I like it and beleive it will add more air especially with the 07 box`s

Wildcard