04 Summit Rebuild w/ T Motion install

[wildcard28]

T Motion install write up 2

Hello, As I`ll explain a few things that had to do with putting the Tmo kit in the rails.

The front arm assembly goes right in new upper outer bushing needed and all the needed parts are listed in the previouse post. these bushing are the same for the outer part of the rear arm so 4 are required, the cross shafts that go thru the top part of the arms between the bushing are reused from the Rev skid. and the lower cross shaft is built in to the front arm cause the bottom part of the arm it acually seperated there is a thin cut or gap in this area where the front arm cam twist or flex not sure how much but doesn`t seem like it would be much either major part of the movement is in the rear scissor assem. The kit comes with a bunch of replacement hardware like all the poly nuts pretty much every where one has to be removed is supplied in the kit and is replaced, Like exlpained before comes with new front limiter strap steel cross shaft I installed the rev aluminum one along with the rev aluminum lower shock shaft assembly and all bolts , washers and spacer to replace the steel center shock shaft supplied for weight purposes. mounting of the lower arm and position of the washers are in the instrucktions. The parts purchased in the previous post are not supplied in the kit since its intended to reuse these part from an xp skid as an upgrade kit. Rev shocks all interchanged, lower rear scisssor thru bolt, washers and inner spacer sleeve is reused from the rev, I purchased a new upper rear shock bushing since it is the only one reused on the rear shock the shock lower part of the shock moutn to a rocker mechanism conected to the lower front arms assembly, and had a sleeve spacer to slide in the shock eyelet and shock eye fits in a slot of the rocker mechanism and the axle rods that have to be purchased seperately are slid thru the mechanism inside the shock sleeve and the new bolt to be purchased it slid thru the LH strut rod thru the axle bar and thru the RH axle rod and a new nut installed. these strut rods to up to the front upper part of the rear scissor assem where the other needs to be purchases axle rod goes there and the 2nd new bolt that again goes thru the same lh strut rod axle bar ane rh axle rod and new nut installed then the upper shock is bolted to the top part of the rear scissor with the previous bushing and shock bolt and new nut supplied.

The spring are reused from the rev along with the plastic spring mount, bolt and inner washer in the rails and new supplied nut and goes back in the same spot as the xp , and the alumimum collers with the set screw in them (don`t tighten the set screws till skid is mounted in sled cause if you tighten the set screws a bit to tight is squeezes the upper tube and the bushing won`t slide in) that go outside the upper wheels are also reused from the rev, the upper wheels are supplied in the kit New outer upper bushings are needed and the rear upper cross shaft is reused from the rev.

The rear inner 2whl axle assembly is pretty cool, rather than just relying on the aluminum spacer between the wheels from bearing to bearing the XM has about a 2inch inside diameter black plastic tube that goes over a lip inside of the wheels from wheel to wheel and give the setup more strength and the wheels are not as likely to bend or break over, I like the Idea. I was going to use the xp yellow outer wheels I had pic of previously but I got a tip or 2 that the bearings are not centered cemetricly in the wheels and make the wheels wider when you put them in a 2whl axle and they will rub the inner track nubbins cause the wheels set wider apart from each other than they should making it hard to center the track. True or not I just decided to run what came in the kit since its all New anyway. the wheels, axle, aluminum spacer, plastic spacer outer bolt w/ coned flex washer and outer centering aluminum pieces that align in the axle slots are supplied in the kit , but the plastic spacers that go between the wheels and the inside of the rails are needed, the adjuster bolt and nut is reused from the rev but new xp outer tensioner straps are needed cause the bolt patter spread it narrower on the xp straps, also shorter bolt from the Rev thru the straps can be reused and new nuts are supplied in the kit. New rubber bottom out bumpers for the rear scissor are supplied in the kit but shorter bolts thu them are needed cause the rev ones are to long but the washers can be used and the nuts cause I didn`t see and 4mm new nuts in the kit, the front rubber bottom out bumpers are needed, I used the Rev ones put them over the rails and had to drill a new hole thru the rail cause the holes for the xp bumper are farther down I reused the rev bumper bolts, washers and nuts. new limiter strap, bolt big thin flat washers and nut is supplied.

After I got the skid all assembled I needed to have the ctc tunnel mounting point set as correct length as skid was out for measurement purposes so I purchased 4 thin aluminum yard sticks and drilled 2 holes in each one (ctc holes) so 2 stick with holes drilled 32inchs apart from each other Rev and 2 sticks with 30inchs apart XP then I put the New mouting bolts suppies thru them so I could have the ctc correct on the floor. One tip on all the mounting bolts I took them out to my bench grinder and wire wheeled ALL the yellow locktite smeered around parts of the thread this makes the bolt impossibly to spin in the cross shaft my had and I would rather put my own liquid lock tite on not the crap already on them, then I sprayed them and the cross shaft threads with PB Blaster or any spray lubricant and they spin in and out with your fingers.

Here is a pic of the axle bar sleeves 2 new bolts, washers and shock eye sleeve.

Here is a pic of the sleeve in the shock lower shock eye and the front arm lower axle bar slid thru the shock and sleeve

Here is a pic of where the axle bar and sleeve go

Here is a pic of the outer LH strut rod, axle bar shock sleeve, shock, RH strut rod and needed bolt and washer and how it all goes together.

Here is a pic of the upper scissor strut rods, 2nd axle bar, 2 needed bolt and upper shock position put together just didn`t have new nuts installed and tightened in this pic

Here is a pic of the Rev shock and complete lower shock shaft installed

Here is a pic of the lower part of the rear scissor w/ rev thru bolt, inner spacer sleeve, inner and outer washers installed

I am reading a thead on here entitled Broken T Flex motion and it shows pic and explainations of this lower scissor part broken from a few members on here most just by riding on bumpy trails and not extreme riding like big hard landings, jumps or drops. they seem to be breaking at or above the welds where the triangular upright side pieces attach at the loser tube. After inspecting this piece myself I Can see why this would be the weak point of this skid design. So I am going to remove this piece this week and weld some reinforcement pieces in it I have already figured out how I`m going to do it and will post those improvements here and on the other thread also.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

T Motion install write up 3

Hello

Here is another pic of that lower scissor part

Here is a pic of the needed adjuster bolt strap and the rev adjuster bolt and nut I had to get shorter strap mounting bolts cause i had a spacer between the original strap and the rail on the previous 2whle kit on the rev skid spacer was not needed on the xp rails.

Here is a pic of the rear axle assembly installed, again I replaced these wheels I was going to use for the Ones that were supplied with the kit
don`t have a pic of the needed plastic spacers but they are listed in the parts list in previous post.

Here is a pic of the reused Ice Scratcher I had installed on Rev skid I didn`t have a good enought mounting position for them on the rev and had to mount them about 3/4 the way back of the length of the skid they worked good but would of rather had them farther forward, they work much better that way, Well these rails I purchased I discovered my some wear marks on the inside upper tips of a positon in the rails that it might of had Scratchers installed before, Sure enought they bolted right on and farther forward like I wanted them originally, I had to remove the big flat washer that goes between the scratcher spring and the rails cause it wouldn`t fit well not goint to hurt anything not being there just might run the rail more.
This also shows where the spring mount attachs stock xp positon

Here is a pic of the Yard stick idea when skid was pretty much assembled This didn`t allow the rear scissor to be constantly forced back by the shock and springs and twanging loose all the time got to be anoying so I thought this up, I will also show how I used this same concept in installing the skid I have done it 3 different times now way cool and easy. will explain in following posts

After the skid pretty much put together other than the rubber bumpers and limiter strap and Hyfaxs and bolt and screw that retains the front of the hyfaxs to the rails I got this pic of the back of the rear scissor setting nuetral positon

Here is a pic of the rear scissor setting layed over some degrees this move effortlessly with one hand side to side. not sure if it actually move this much mounted in the skid but probably close, also the front arm has torsionaly twist to it I just never tried to hand twist it.

Installing the skid in the sled is next, Yhae!!! Hope this isn`t to much But I really want and hope this will help someone or anyone on this skid install or any mod or post I have posted here, I love improving and working and modding my sled and making my own stuff when possible, Just don`t want to be working on it in the woods all the time. Knock on Wood I have been only towed out once and thats cause it was a hot spring day and haulin azz hard on the throttle in the Blues Mountains and just Blew 2 belts that day, I Pray not to have any major break downs or Engine troubles in the Woods and that goes for everyone a part of this sport!!!

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

T Motion install write up 4

Hello

Another Cool thing about this mod or install is when after I pulled the complete Rev skid out and put it on a scale and did the same when the Complete T Motion skid was Assembled I knew it would be ligher a bit but really didn`t thing it would be this amount.

Complete 159 Rev X Model skid with HPG rebuildable shocks with No inner or outer bogie wheels other than 2whl kit installed on stock 7inch wheels Burned down to nothing Hyfaxs including Ice Scratchers
Pounds of course..

Complete T Motion skid assembled in 08`Summit 154 rails, Rev Summit X Model HPG Rebuildable shocks, Rev Spring (Not sure if XP X Model shocks or springs might be ligher), No inner or outer bogie wheels other than Tmo/ XM 8inch 2whl factory kit, Brand New Hyfaxs including Ice Scratchers

8 Pounds, don`t seem like much but 1 or 2, or 6 to 8 here and there all ads up, I have kept track of most all the weight differences of all mods, part removed or installed or changed just have to add it all up soon here I have actually taken a quite a bit off this sled. diet diet diet, Not me tho I weight 160lbs dressed am 5 11 and 43yrs old (no riding gear). and in pretty descent shape.

Had to post this pic of my adorable Grandson (He is almost 2yrs old), after I completed for this night on the skid I set it up on out big tub with some tools next to it and left the room for a sec, Jayden who had been watching and handing me everytool he cold get his hands on as he sat next to me watchin me put this skid together for a quite a few nights I agian set it up on the tub walked out of the room and back in just a minute later and he had this wrench in his hand and trying to spin this bolt , funny and amazing part was it was right size wrench and he was wrenchin it back and forth was Priceless and I was so Proud, got the camera in hand just in time before he turned around and to look at me and pull the wrench away. Lol.

I have been a Auto Mechanic all my life and specialize in Transmissions.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

T Motion install write up 5

Hello, well when I got the Tmo skid all completely assembled I removed the skid from my sled after I got some baseline measurments I measured from the drive shaft to the rear of the wheels, when I removed it I didn`t loosen the rear axle cause I didn`t want to tamper with where it was set, I then set both skid paralel with each other with the rear wheels set against the wall and with the yard stick attacted to the ctc of each skid I could see the differences in locations of the components and arm mounts, I came up with the length and set up my track the tmo front arm mount was 3 3/4 farther back than the rev front arm mount, also before I removed the rev skid I got a measurement from the driveshaft to the front arm mount and after my skid comparisons I just had to drill my front arm hole 3 3/4 farther back than my rev mount, I used the yard sticks for the tmo skid of 30inch ctc and put a 10mm bolt thru the new front arm hole and the back ctc hole is the yardstick actually lined up good with the many holes I had in the VE drop brackets so I mounted the skid, unfortuneltly I was off on my meaurements somehow and after getting the track adjusted I was at the end of my axle slot in the rails so the next mornin I took the skid back out move my holes another 1 1/2 inch back and now my rear axle is set pretty much center of the axle slot.

I have read a thread titled Broken T flex skid and on this thread I have seen guys who are breaking the rear lower triangle lookin scissor mount at some welds on the lower cross tube between the rails so I decided to reinforce it I finished that last night and reinstalled it back in at lunch break today. my shock I had was a 17inch shock and the xp or tmo shock needs to be 17 1/4 don`t seem like much but with the rear scissor topped out the stock would be topped out before the scissor does I didn`t want that stress on the shock so I had another shock that was bad and I cut the eye off it and cut a portion of the eye out of the good shock and welded the other eye on it moving my shock ctc to actuall 17 3/8 giving me a bit extra room the shock could top out being to short but wll never bottom the shaft to the housing the rear scissor will bottom out leaving a couple inchs left on the shock.

Here is the skids set aside each other you can see where the components are set differently the tmo has a longer front arm and all the suspension parts are farther back in the rails than the rev. When the Tmo skid gets installed the shocks show in the Rev skid will be swapped over to the xp Tmo skid!!

here is the difference in the front arm locations and the differences in the rail lenghts too, all these pic is with the rear axles setting equal to each other like it was going to be in the sled.

here is the difference in the front arm mounts tmo LH Rev RH you can see how the summit front arm has a factory like flatbar lookin extension making the mounting bolt 1 1/4inchs farther forward than where the a standard cross shaft would go, this is 3 3/4 differences in lenght

here is the differences in the rear of the front arm see how the xp tmo shock mounts to a rocker mechanism attached to the front arm where the shock and a pair of strut rods mounted outside the shock mechanism up to the front top of the rear scissor and the rev has a pivot mounted away from the front arm with a strut rod where the shock attachs and also goes up to the rar scissor just the xp strut rods mount in a different spot than the rev.

this is where the rear scissor mount are in each skid tmo LH Rev RH

before I started maching everything up I didn`t want to be laying over the track so I pulled it forward up between the skis to get it out of the way worked great

Now the skid and track pulled forward out of the way. and here is how I worked with the yardstick and the measurement drawing I did on the inside of the tunnel, of course I had to move another 1 1/2 inchs farther back than the written measurement to get the skid set so I had rear axle center in slides. but the distance written front the driveshaft to the track was correct.

 

[wildcard28]

T Motion install write up 6

Here is the Tmo bolted in with out the track around it just to see how it bolted in, went in great.

I then lowered the back of the sled down to see how the skid would wet on teh ground with no weight on it just to make sure it would set even front to rear of course with the skid setting on the track this can change a bit but moving a hole up or down in the rear can get the skid to lift evenly after lifting the back of the sled this is a good setup or even having the rear of the skid to lift or lift on the track slightly first before the front of the skid lifts then limiter strap adjustments can be made from there.
Floor wasn`t straight but skid did set level

Here is one thing i like to do before installing a skid put a couple longer bolts thru your drop bracket to hold the track up as you feed the skid in works great and don`t have to fight or with the track hanging over the skid

Track on but not adjusted up

Here is where the axle adjustment was after track was adjusted and centered with 1 1/4 inchs sag tighter than I usually run it normally I run about 1 1/2inchs sag,

The next morning I dropped the skid back out and skid the skid back 1 1/2 inchs and this is where the axle slot adjustment is now with track sag at 1 1/2inchs sag

Here is a good pic of the Aproach angle with the VE Drop and Rolled chaincase 1 3/4 down and 1 1/4 back ,aluminum chaincase belly protector and the skid set to half that much most D&R a sled for bigger lug tracks and better aproach angle but if you move the skid the same as the D&R your not actualy changing the approach angle so move it half as much and angle is improved. this also shows how the xp rails add more driver to rail clearance. the limiter strap on the tmo has to be changed by manually removing the strap bolts and changing holes I actually liked the Rev adjustable know for strap adjustment better was easier int the snow.
Going to put a angle guage on the track angle and see just what is now, around 23 degrees is around a better desired range of angle

Lastly here is where I had to drill a new hole in the rail for the Rev front bumpers I were reusing.

All done, almost just one more fix I removed the lower rear scissor a couple days later and just finished reinforcing it last night after work since I read a thread to where this lower piece has been breaking at the lower cross tube at the welds on each end of the pieces that triangul up the the heim.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

T Motion lower scissor reinforcement and shock lengthening

Here is a few pic of what I did to reinforce the lower rear scissor mechanism on T Motion kit

Here is a shot of the part after I sanded some paint off it and smoothly ground down some up the lower welds so I could lay the reinforcement pieces on.

Here are the pieces I made for braces to the lower scissor part, 1/2inch x 1/8inch flatbar. I also drilled 3 5/16 holes down the middle of these pieces and plug welded them to the scissor part

Here is after I stich and tack welded the pieces in just added a touch more weld to the tops of the flatbar pieces and the bottom below the factory welds but didn`t grind all the way thru the stock welds when i was trying to tack to the outside parts where the sides lip over it started burning notchs int he outer piece with that parts would of came out prettier but at least its stronger not

Done and painted,

I needed to extend the shock I had a quarter of an inch so I cut an eye off one bad rev shock and you can see where inthe pic I cut the upper portion of the good shock eyelet and rewelded the eyelet out farther giving me a ctc of 17 3/4 a bit longer but plenty room, to short of shock makes the shock top out before the suspension doesn I didn`t want the load the suspension fallout load on the shock its in excellent shape and this quick mod saves me over $100 on a replacement X Model shock. this pic is just where i tacked it in forst, is all welded up and painted the end weld and eye already, This was also finished last nigth and today at lunch time I ran over and installed the scissor part and shock, Got Home after work and the Wife and I went back to set the skid Toe-end man was setting 1/2inc toed in so since it has Simmons Gen 1`s I set them straigth up.

All done and headed out Saturday (Jan,19,2013) morning for a ride in Elk River Id where we normally ride. should make a hell of an improvement, 35.5 ski stance w/ Tmotion suspension. Yhae!!!

Thanks for reading Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

First Ride on the Tmotion

Hello Everyone first ride out on the Tmotion rear suspension, along with the narrow front end, May worked great. do have to relearn the sled again now I have actually need to learn the new sweet spot in the sled that was so I had dificulty getting the sled to last couple seasons.

We were riding in Elk River Id and the snow was not that great wasn`t much base still tones of bearly snow covered stumps and small trees I`d say there was over 3ft but still now enough. but as I would turn into a hill side or bank just lean to one side and give some throttle and the sled would hold its angle to the hillside!! counter steering was touchy before I had to force alot of counter steer and throttle at the same time to do the same thing but would still fight the sled from dropping the outside ski and turn back down Now you turn into the hill give the same amount of counter and throttle as before and immediatly turns up straight and lays itself over pretty easy.

Climbing in fresh you just had to lean or give pressure to the running board in the direction you want to turn and lean with steady throttle and sled would react real good many times I would countersteer throttle and lean and most the time I would to quick and get stuck. but that was good. sweet spot is easy to initiate and find now just have to learn an easier balance . I was very impressed and happy with it.

I still have a problem (stock stance and even now with the narrow) riding or breaking trail , going slow down an offcamber drifted over trail leaning off one side of the sled and even sometimes enough that I`m hanging from the mountain strap and seems the sled just wants to turn and slide the front down hill and not hold straight just wants to tip over to the down hill side but this I have always had problems with I just don`t know if a better ski or a ski that is shorter in the back or has a carl`s type cut out would help this, I know the cut out help with turnouts on climbs with the Pilots but don`t really feel that problem with Simmons`s Gen 1`s with no mods to them in this situation, just wondering if my 6.9 Pilots that were swapped side to side and had a skibolt back cutout on them and the rears shortened 3inch would help me out with this now with the narrower front end and the Tmo??

I tell ya on the trail you don`t even notice the Tmo in the rear.

The Simmons ski are the best ski for floatation I have ridden and man do those skis bite on the trail, even with the frontend 3inch narrower I have never went so fast or hauled azz on the trail on this sled ever they seriously hold a line and don`t dart cut there own track and rail at high speeds, just amazing how you can still push a longtrack mountain sled to a good I swear 90+ mph ,never had a straight away long enough to top her out, but now I can hold a corner and keep up with my buddies mod tripple summit with Simmons also usually his 97 summit not as tippy as mine runs away from me on the trail and roads in, Yesterday only left my site when I would stop and check my Go Pro or adjust my helmet cause the highspeed wind was catching the bottom of my helmet visor and trying to pull the helmet off the back of my head, Lol what a blast.

All in all I with skidoo would of released this rear skid design long ago, I love it and incourage and sled or Rev owner to install one you`ll Love it!!

Will post the pics when I get them downloaded off the camera

Wildcard

 

[BackCountryBob]

Excellent ride report--are you still going to break the track? Maybe its time to BCB mod those Gen 1. Break the track and report back then mod the skis and let us know you results. I'll will be breaking my track on Weds--waiting for snow now and I cannot find that evasive rock/tree magnet

BCB

 

[wildcard28]

Hello, Yes BCB I am going to break the track how can it hurt.

goint to change tracks anyway, if I don`t like it or notice any difference I`ll leave the next track alone, but don`t expect that to happen.

Going to try the modded Pilots and if they aren`t any better I`m going to BCB mod the Gen 1`s like the pics you sent me.

Thanks, wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Few pic from Tmo first ride. Yesterday Jan,19,2013

snow was deep but not deep enough for a good base to hide all the stumps and small trees, the stumps were covered but you could see the shape of them in the snow if you would try to ride over one you would feel the thump was a fun day kept thowing the sled over to far always had a hard time for little me to get the sled to lay over a carve Now it lays over realy easy and I am laying over to much as I carve and end up on my side, just have to not exert so much effort now!! Feel great now.

Buddies 97` Summit 780 mod tripple BB/ over 820cc now, crankshop tripple pipes, v force reeds, 44mm carbs bored, pods, high output evinrude coils, Case and cylinder ported, basegasket and cylinder shave mod etc.... all light weight suspension parts, Simmons Gen 1 skis, Drop and Roll chaincase, M10 rear skid, 162x16x2 1/4 track, Boss Seat. Mad Powerful and Fast

Jerry stuck in a almost over backwards but had to turn out up a small but pretty much straight up steep slopein the distance (camera gives no justice), I`m standing next to my sled stuck below cause of great over carve and layed it on its side. there is a road just a bit below where he is setting and it wet real steep up from there hit it a bit to slow. hard to see but was tricky little spot drifted deep.

Just tipped the sled up on its skis before takin these 2 pics

The ole Summit can pretty much fly,lol

few Favorits spots of this one certain area.

Fun Day, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello everyone, I have gotten a few rides out on the redone sled and T Motion mod. made it up to Clarkia ID around a place we call the microwave and has some pretty awesome bowls and some good play areas, I played around in the areas but didn`t get down in the bowls, my buddy took my sled down to help out a couple sleds that were with us cause he is a much better rider than me and he was dropping in a Huge bowl and has the experience to climb out, this sled was the first of all 6 sleds to climb out the steepest deepest spot on the 1st shot, my buddies tripple mod summit would of made it but one fuel line was leaking to a carb so 2 out or 3 cylinder wasn`t cuttin it so took him 2 shots to get out otherwise this sled would of pounced on all of us. other guys got out but had some trouble the first few times but sleds ran good,

buddy on my sled discovered that my steering was lockin up when the frontend was in the air cause of my extra narrow frontend I did when the suspension would fully sag the top balljoint Heim was binding and locking the steering so I was limited in the climbing I could do but if one ski or front end was on the ground performed well, So the next day after we got home I made a limiter strap for the front suspension to restrict the front suspension from full sag only if the suspensin loaded just about 1/2 inch the steering and the bound up upper heim joint feed up so I Made a couple straps to hold the frontend around 1inch above full say and a coulple extra 1/2 inch increment holes incase the straps stretch but don`t think they will and now the suspension doesn`t bind or lock up, this is why the aftermarket arms that relocate the stock and don`t raise the sled or push the a arms down to a more radical ange work so much better than shortening my own front end, got it all workin now but AI arms will benefit the sled better, geometry will be more correct, doesn`t mess with the heigth of the sled and relocates teh shock to the correct position and lighter weight, along with if you smack something the arms will bend and not take out the Nun or Bulkhead which is why I had to change chassis`s in the first place.....

This Tmo kit is a HUGE difference in ride quality and how the sled stays on its side in a sidehill even crossing bumps or other sled trenchs point and shoot, If you feel like the sled is going to turn back down the hill just lean a little bit more, or just grab a touch more throttle and recovers easily, before I would cross across some trenchs like that and rear suspension would not soak it up so well and slam the outer ski down and loose it, not the case any more.

Awesome Fun Day, had a blast.

I did remove the simmons skis and go back to my modded 6.9 Pilots that are swapped side to side, have shortened rears and a carl`s type cut out and they worked much better when sidehilling and on turnout at the top of a climb I even moved them to the outer position and stability was great. Its cool how the narrow front goes from ski to ski realy easy and how you can feel the Tmo work you can feel the back of the sled or tunnel actually tilt and kinda squat feel and layover feels like rear steering in a small sence and sled just lays over and turns quite easy. I LOVE IT!!!!!!!

If I had this kit and xp rails in my first 97 Summit would probably still be riding it, course that gives me an idea now, my Wifes 97 summit with a Tmo kit and the stock 38inch front, and that sled sidehills way easy anyway, possible new mod sled, its almost back together with a 91 Mach 1 617. drop and rolled chaincase and 136x15x2inch track.

I purchased a Mountain Addiction Track Rack setup with the Big bag (6inch tall bag not the 8.5 they offer) should be here next week. will post pics of that installation, way cool set up. not going to get any of the gas cans they offer cause I am retaining the Rev Gas Caddy can`t beat the room saver under the 06 X model seat saves a bunch more room.

Next purchase is a PowderJack , and saving for a set of Alternate Impact 37inch arms.

Will post some pics soon, Wildcard

 

[BackCountryBob]

The knock off jack is extremely flimsey--guys I ride with that went that route are not happy. Pay the extra bucks and get the original High-Jacker by Bill Harmon. I even used mine to change a tire on my trailer. I cut a hole in my DOO shovel and use that as my base.

BCB

 

[wildcard28]

I`ll check it out, great idea on the shovel scoop, my shovel scoop will be mounted outside my Mountain addiction tunnel bag and easy to get to, maybe I wouldn`t have to pack the jack foot, will see.

I actually got a email from Firstplacepart.com saying my Mountain Addiction Tunnel bag rack should be delivered tomorrow, Yhaee. this system looks so comveint by removing the bag with out straps of tiedown just pull a kodder pin and slide the bag off. or put what every opional bags small or big and gas cans on. but I am going to retain the great design of the Rev Gas Caddy. will post pic as I`m installin it actually only takes drilling 4holes and 4bolts N nuts

http://www.firstplaceparts.com/mountain-addiction-trackrack.html
this is the bag set up just no forward cans.

Wildcard

 

[_Adrian_]

Nice build

I'm in the process of reviving mine from the dead ( blown motor ) and was thinking of the T-motion setup.

How much trouble on a nearly stock REV to swap to on a stock 159x16 track ?

 

[wildcard28]

Nice build

I'm in the process of reviving mine from the dead ( blown motor ) and was thinking of the T-motion setup.

How much trouble on a nearly stock REV to swap to on a stock 159x16 track ?

Hello Adrian, what lug heigth you thinkin of runnin? if its a Rev 159 track it will go right in. cause I`m running a 159x2 1/8 bolted right in fit in stock drivers.just had to lengthen the rails and tunnel extension. if your sled is not an 07` it will have a 2.52 pitch drivers and I beleive you can but 9tooth drivers to fit a 2 1/4 track. the 2.5 tracks are a different pitch.

If you have a 144 track and want to lengthen to a 159 I have 144-159 Tracks USA rails extensions for sale and I would take $145shipped for them they are in the pic below.

On the 16inch track it will go right in. what track do you have cause Rev chassis`s are made with 16inch tracks mine was a stock 144x16x2 track.

Wildcard

 

[_Adrian_]

Hi Wildcard,

That post was before i picked up my sled. The PO originally said it was an 151 track, but quickly discovered that its a 159 when he found last years bill for the new camoplast track he had the dealer put on. All in all what else is needed besides the XP skid and T-Mo kit ?

Thanks again

 

[wildcard28]

Hi Wildcard,

That post was before i picked up my sled. The PO originally said it was an 151 track, but quickly discovered that its a 159 when he found last years bill for the new camoplast track he had the dealer put on. All in all what else is needed besides the XP skid and T-Mo kit ?

Thanks again

Hello Adrian,

If read thru this thread especially when I get to putting the Tmo kit and skid together like in post #60 that has a detailed list of the parts you would need to purchase and why, and so on it is all listed on what you will need and can reuse from your original rev skid. and if you read thru the thread and posts that explain me mounting the rear skid placement and measurements should come out pretty good for ya since both our sled have 159 tracks some placement is a little different cause mine has a drop and rolled chaincase but read it and you will can figure it out if you have fabricating or mechanic all skills abit its really not hard to do. my rear VE drop brackets had a bunch of skid placement holes in them so I didn`t have to relocat them but you would probably have to relocate or make new drop brackets for the Tmo install for the rear scissor relocate.

after installing the Tmo kit in my sled it raised the rear of the sled 1 1/2 inchs higher in the rear measured around the drop bracket area over the heigth of the stock skid since if I would of measured at the rear bumper it would be more cause at a leverage standpoint cause the tmo or xp and newer rear suspensions have more rear suspension travel and travel.

You don`t need an xp skid cause if you buy one you won`t be using the front and rear arms and scissor assemblies so that would be wasted money but you can do if you just purchase 154 xp rails and hyfax`s and the complents I have listed you need to buy and use a quite a few parts from your rev skid like the shocks, and other components that swap over.

I was originally going to put the kit in the rev rails but after having the tmo skid set side by side with the rev skid like pictured a few times in this thread the length of the front arms and positioning in the rails compared to each other would probably wouldn`t work and be worth it

Good luck, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello, finaly getting around to breakin the track . to mention again I have a polaris series 4 159x15x2 1/8 track so the lugs are positioned differently on the belt than a doo track and the lugs aren`t as wide so after breaking this track I beleive it will be more flexible than the doo track, this track actually works and climbs really well but I will eventually be swapping over to a doo 162 or an xp 163x16x2.5 track which is the biggest reason why I swapped to the new chassis with the Drop and Roll chaincase kit installed. I believe I would have to buy 2.86 pitch 8tooth doo drivers or a complete 07 8tooth 440x driveshaft off ebay complete cheaper.

I purchased a 2ft stick of 1/2inch solid cold roll steel that cost $1.50 today and a 1ft piece of 1/4x1 1/4 flatbar that was $1.25 but only used 3inchs of that and after $3.75 later I completely made my version of the tool in under an hour and my welds look better than the bird crap welds on the original tool for $65, I looked one over at the spokane snow show and wasn`t impressed, sorry.

Will post some pics and more info after I break the track tomorrow.

Wildcard

 

[lshobie]

Awesome build! I have the polaris series 4 and like it, but I also find the paddles a little soft at the tips, tracks with the same length lug but stiffer hook up better than me. Consider the Peak 2.5, I am putting it on my next mod sled. The track is amazing with different durometer rubber on the lugs to channel and direct the snow - I was pretty impressed with the construction of it.

I'll be using your snobunje mod and making a vid for my Rev build series on youtube. thanks for the idea!

Regards,

Louie

 

[wildcard28]

Hello Louie, thanks for the reply and the comment on my build.

I agree I like the series 4 track even tho it has taken me anyplace I wanted to take the sled but I really do want to upgrade, I would definetly like the CE or Peak track but I was originally thinkin of the xp 163 track, will see just don`t have the fundage cost for the Peak or CE. maybe for now I will be purchasing my buddies 162x16x2.3 on his tripple mod sled cause he is swapping to a 162x16x3inch lug track for a good price and I will break that track also and possibly doing the Gman lugs cut to 15inch on the 16inch track have heard alot of great feedback on his mod.

I love the snowbunjie mod when I seen a guy on BCB do it to his Mseries and thought it would be harder on the Rev but was really easy and Man I can`t tell ya how incredibly handy it is to walk up to the sled and pull the bunjie out of the dash and have it immediately accessable. I have used it more in the last 3-4 ride than the 3 years I have carried it cause before it alwaly seem to work its way to the bottom of my tunnel bag and sucked to dig thru the bag to get it out not its in it own designated spot and is awesome, I swapped over the the Mountain Addiction track rack system with the 6.5inch tunnel bag and man that is awesome. kinda wish I would of purchased the 8inch height bag tho cause it would zip up better after I put the drinks I carry in the elastic holders makes the lid zip up kinda tight but still love it.

Wildcard