04 Summit Rebuild w/ T Motion install

[BackCountryBob]

I am not totally sure moving the saddle and axle mtg to the extreme outside of the ski will work in the long run as there is allot of torque being applied to the ski mounting area.

I have messed with suspension spring tensions and found the following work best for me to lighten the steering (6' 200# ready to ride): front springs on 1.5, no sway bar, front skid shock spring as tight as I could make it, limiter strap sagging when I'm on the sled, and the rear torsion springs on 1. Yeah I bottom out once and awhile in the whoops but that's why us cool riders stand up and down Aleve at bed time:face-
icon-small-win.

Since I have not been riding yet I will wait to give any comments on Carl's cut and belt sanding the tunnel flatter. Maybe both carbides need to be cut back to 6"? I think the Gen 1 needs more rocker.

I too have tired arms and shoulders (left is a total rebuild complete with titanium and delrin parts--not quite midget car parts but close).

I hate to give up the flex ski as they have saved many front suspension/bulkhead parts but we may be headed for a divorce. So no pic until I am satisfied the Gen 1 will work and I get picture taking instructions with my new Droid from one of my grandkids.

I know this is blasphemous but I replaced my 6 yr. old HPS can with the suitcase because the sled failed the State of Colorado sound test (92 db vs 88) and I'm a State certified Safety Instructor so I have to set a "good example"--but to my surprise, the sled now has better mid-range and seems to have slightly better fuel mileage. It could be that my stock ceramic coated pipe contributed to the dbs--not sure. So, my 40# weight reduction program has been reduced to 25#.

BCB

 

[TreewellDweller]

There was mention in this post about breaking the track to get the most out of the T-Motion kit that will be installed. Has this been done and if so, how was it done. thanks

 

[wildcard28]

Hello Treedweller, yes there is tool offered that is sold at a reasonable price, (even tho I will be makin my own) that has been advertised here and other sites in many threads that breaks the outer fiberglass rods in the track from the rails or hyfax`s to the outer edge of the track, actually just ouside the track clip hole the track get drilled in a cross patern to fracture the inner fiberglass rods and then the tool goes over the outside edge of the track into the hyfax aread and you pull up or down on it twisting and bending the track doing a finish break of the inner track support rod the remaining part of the rods every pitch from inner rail to rail are left unharmed this takes the stiffness away from the outer part of the track making it more flexable simulatin the effect of the Skidoo Flexedge track, I beleive this mod will work on most any track,

My sled currently has a Polaris Series 4 159x15x2 1/8 track and I am goin got break or do this mod to it also, with the Lug pattern of this style track and the not as wide lugs I think it will make it more flexable than a wider lug track like the challenger style lug pattern or the same pattern as Skidoo tracks since I beleive 04 and up.

If it works good on my track and since my sled has a Drop and Rolled chaincase I will eventually install the series 5 or new Polaris Pro track in a 163 length I beleive the lug heigth is around 2.5 which wil clear in my sled the way it is, I really like this style track cause it is one of the lightest tracks is 15inch wide and the newer series 5 track has same lug patter just taller lugs, Or if the if it doesn`t work with this pattern track I will swap to an XP 163x16x2.5 and do the track break mod on it also, along with My T motion install and it currently havin 35.5 ski stance I beleive this sled will lay over really easy..

Not sure if this has been done on a Rev with a T motion install and breakin a track also, Hopefully My sled will be the first then maybe someone out there has , narrowed there frontend more than an XM, installed a T Motion and Broke a track also, then Maybe Not???

Wildcard

 

[BackCountryBob]

Wildcard28--report card on the modified Gen1: First ride on Sat in 3' light powder, with sugar base. I could turn the skis standing still will average arm power. Sled poped right up and banked turned faster/tighter. Since I did Carl's cut, widened the ski shoes full out, cut the outside wear bar/carbide down to 6", and belt sanded the tunnel behind the shoe down to 1/2 the original height--all at once, I can't say which of mods made the most difference in the POW. I did not get a chance to side hill anything steep as the cover was too unstable and I don't compete with avys. Chopped up and deep rutted pow--the sled did not try to follow the ruts and could steer out of the deep ones with out throwing the sled over.

On the packed power trail these skis were excellent as they could be turned standing still, held the corners, and tracked straight.

I'm not done yet. I will take another 1/4" off the tunnel and attempt to put a small rocker (with my heat gun) behind the shoe. These skis are 10 yrs. old so I can cut/sand away without care.

Track--Gman's cut is the real deal as the sled really worked the trees and the pow, same traction and float as before--no stucks. Easier to pull over but not close to a Po Pro but better than a 12 XP I rode with. On the trail, it seemed to be quicker and had less snow build up in the tunnel when I loaded the sled on the trailer. I am waiting for someone else
(you or Maize) to break the track before I take the plunge. If I do, I plan to cut the paddle down to, and into, the rod with my multi-tool and use the multi-tool to cut the top of the other rods--break the rods riding--won't need the tool.

Good luck with your project,

BCB

 

[wildcard28]

Hello BCB, thanks for the report I had a feelin the mods you listed before would work good all makes scence.

Could you Please post some pic and explanation of the mods you done to your skis I want to do this to mine, I rode the sled around the house yesterday just moving stuff around and trying to turn it in the soft ground grassy field you can feel the extra effort to turn these babies,

I`m am wanting to do everything to make this sled layover easier turn with out pushin forward all the time and track straight with less steering effort. Hopefully I want to get to a point where it strart to get to tippy then I can start going the other way ya know get it to layover super effortlessly to the point you cant go anymore then I can adjust stiffen it up to a sence so I get go either way to get it dialed to my balance and settings.

I like the fact where you say it keeps your line even thru the deep tunnel and ski tracks as you are sidehillin , this is where I have the most trouble maintaining a line I get dumped or track across someone elses track trence or ski grooves and slams the skis back flat or bucks me around before I can stay and play with the sweetspot balance point ya know.

I also have another set of skis also so if I mess or don`t like how these mods work I can swap back to my modded 6.9 Pilots I`ll just have to adjust limiter strap to put more ski pressure, getting them to turn last couple years sucked.

Pics please, Lol

Thanks Again, Wildcard

 

[BackCountryBob]

wildcard28--I am up to my Jingle Bells with holiday stuff and won't have time to pull the skis until after New Years. The only reason I still use the Simmons is for A-arm/nun protection as I can find stumps/rocks that no else finds. Also, I have yet to post pics on any 4M so I have a few things to learn.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

BCB

 

[wildcard28]

Hello BCB, I understand took me a bit to learn how to post pic also, I have photobucket.com acct and post all my pic from there to hear, easy for me also is I have the photobucket and additional adroid smart phone snapbucket app on my phone so evertime I take a pic with my phone it automaticly uploads pics and vid from my phone to photobucket and again I post those from there to hear it takes a few tests and times to do it but after a few times its pretty easy.

If you like you could just take a few pics jof the skis on the sled without removing them from your camera or phone by text to 208 305 4732 or by email to wildcard282@hotmail.com and I`ll post them here for ya, if you like.

Thanks and Hope that you and family along with everyone who has read this have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Darren

 

[wildcard28]

Hello Everyone hope you all had a good christmas.

Here is a Unique Mod I read a thread on on Backcountryrebel and pretty genius also I obviously liked it enough it did it to my sled actually thought it would be more difficult on the Rev then the Arctic Cat the guy showed his write up on it since it had full size lift up hood like an S Chassis or ZX figured theat body style sled would be more for giving on room.

Anyway how many of ya Have Snowbunje Rattlers and like me have them in my tunnel bag and never seem to use them much often cause you always have to open the tunnel bag and it always seems to work its way to the bottom or is under the shovel, supplies, food etc... And would want instant access to it anytime you want. so here is what I did to encorporate this to The Rev Chassis, actually super easy install (If you have a Headlight delete if not don`t see any room for this unless you incorporate in in maybe the RH side panel outside a smaller aftermarket exhaust can but woul still be tricky.

So this installs a black plastic pvc household tube from the RH side of the dash where the guage delete part is down into the engine compartment and makes a tube you can slide your Snowbunje in and out of it with easy and accessable right away. I also purchased a inexpensive 2 1/2 inch hole saw for $9 and after dirlling one hole is a bracket the headlight mounted to and wrapping it with a zip tie and drilling one hole thru the top and side of the bumper under where the hood lip goes over and thru the pvc plastic tube and a backing washer bam there it is Done, in the other guys thread he installed a rubber gromet in the dash drilling out a bigger hole in his dash are and sliding the tube inside it sealin it off more. I didn`t install the rubber grommet and have a small gap around the tube to the dash, no big deal for me I`ll leave it there, and I could of trimmed the top of the tube off to the same angle as the dash but will maybe do that later. the other thread in BCR this tube had to be sliced a few times in the center of the tube to get a bend out of it to clear his underhood components, on my sled its all straigth no mods to the tube.

Here it is. This is a pic with the hood off and where I previously had from last season the headlight removed and deleted (I will have a Lead dog Helmet light in my tunnel bag for just incase I need lighting) I put the tube up to the back of the dash and seen it aligned perfectly with where the guage would of been so I cut out with the 2.5inch hole saw exactly where the guage would of been. Here the precut tube out a ben I purchased for $3.85 at Home Depot in

Hole cut out in dash and straight shot viem from top of hole

Here is where I slid the tube up from the engine compartment up into the dash

Here is where the tube stuck up thru the dash I could of trimmed it more flush but I left it the way it is.

Here where the just set against the inside of the bumper so since it sat in with out fallin out and wasn`t tight or binding anything I drilled a 3/16 long poprivet thru the bumper and the tube and installed a backing washer and it set in there pretty tight cause it also set ontop of the bracket with the pin on it where the headlight moutned

Here is where is set on the headligth bracket so I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it and put a zip tie around it and it in ther tight and doesn`t move or wiggle in my sled. Cool, also see how it clears the extra belt mounted in the sled (not correct belt just a mach up) I scored 2 new 166 belts from guy on here for $65 shipped score, Thank You!!

So here It Is this is where the Snowbunje Rattler slides down the tube. way cool mod, next pic will show that the precut 3ft piece I purchased could actually be about 4inchs longer so the hook of the Rattler didn`t come out the end of the tube but I pulled it in and out a bunch of times twistind and trying to get the hook to snag on the end of the tube and didn`t do it today if it does I might add a longer tube or glue and extension to it.

Bunje Hook sticking out the end of the tube no current hang ups.

Final installation pic

Ready to ride way it sets, Even tho by the time we get riding hopefully in the next week or 2 is the T Motion install which should be here in 2 Days or Friday, 28,2012. and XP 163x16x2.5 shortly after tmo is complete.

To me this is a very cool and accessable mod, I really was impressed with it and it on this sled was way easy, did it in under a half an hour but could actually do it quicker if I had pics and write up like this..

Ya know like discussed in the other thread, I would like to see the possible video or pic of someone to jump on this sled not knowing where the original pull start handle is and try to Yank on the Rattler handle and see it get pulled and shoot out of the tube and who ever is doing this go flying off the Back Of The Sled, LOL!!!!!

Hope this helps anyone.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello more progress, I got My Choko Tunnel bag I have used for the last couple years installed on the tunnel today behind the Rev fuel caddy, same place I have had it for last couple season, I have been researchin some different tunnel bags and I beleive I will be changin to the Sled Solutions E Series tunnel bag I`m gonna go with the Mini I like the alastic straps in it the side mesh pockets and the mesh pocket under the lid and especially How you can store your shovel scoop on the top outside of the bag Rather than the one I have now you have to always open the bag to get to the scoop and handle since I got for Christmas a Snowbunje handle bags storage bags set up pretty cool set up lots of storage and some cool pockets in it I can go with a smaller tunnel bag.

Also got the RSI extra hot grip heaters and X cork insulators on the bars since again I have changed to 2011 Freeride aluminum bars and the match in grips. they work great they are good and warm on low and HOT on high with gloves on they should work great.

Also when I finished buyin the grip heaters today I was told the T Motion kit would be here tomorrow afternoon, Yhae!!

New Grip heaters, insulator, glue

Bag on Tunnel

Snowbunje Handlebar bar set up
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo197/ddcard/Darren%20phone/
20121226_121034.jpg

Also installed a WPS goggle bag or for extra set of glove to stay warm or what ever I put in it Installed on Clutch cover hope it doesn`t get to hot but shouldn`t with the venting I have, I have had this bag for a couple years and have never put it on.

Will start on T Motion tomorrow, Hopefully they are correct of it ariving tomorrow.

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Bummer, Not a good today at work today and to add to that like I mentioned in my last post, I went down to the dealer to pick up my grip heaters and they sprouted off to me how the T Motion kit would be here today!! got a call from them today saying I had some parts show up, Yhae NOT. I go there and they inform me that the kit wasn`t going to be here till Jan, 3rd what crap it that I ordered almost the last week of November they told me it would be here on Dec 20th almost a month away that was cool cause it gave me time to pay payments on it I had it paid off before the 20th went there on the 20th they said cause of the holidays it won`t be here till the 29th, so I go get my grip hearters on the 27th the surprise me saying your t motion will be here tomorrow afternoon (TODAY!!) go there today and after the call that I had stuff arive it was just the xp rail plastic tips I ordered 2 DAYS AGO.... and they tell me the kit is not expected to be here till Jan 3rd cause of the Holiday, and UPS showed it actually shipped on the 20th, thats the same holiday excuse 2 times now. anyway just pisses my off. Many smaller parts orders and here in matter of days, the most expensive thing I purchase from them other than my sled and it takes almost 2months.

Wildcard

 

[millertime4060]

we have T-motions in stock where i work.. you can pm me, or ARMYSLEDER on here.. he works there to.. i am sure we could get one mailed right out to you.. i know they have ARMYSLEDER sale alot of stuff on here from the shop..
Nice build you have going.. i have been thinking about putting the Tmotion on my 07 rev..

 

[wildcard28]

Lead Dog Helmet light install

Hello, Another goodie to install, since sled has no headlight wanted somethin for the just in case cituation to have light if had to ride out in the Dark, Lead Dog Helmet light nice product, and super easy install.

again since this sled has no headlight, the Lead dog is a simple 3 wire install, This is the connection for a sled with No Battery connection for that is in the instructions.
White = front bulb power, Red = tail light (the rear red part of the light will light up when you squeeze the brake) and Black = ground. I didn`t hook up the tail light wire so only needed 2 wires. I ran the plugin up the center of the Riser and over the RH side of the bars leaving a few inchs slack over the bars, so when not connected I can slide it under the center top of the Snowbunje Handle bar bag set up and the handle bars pad actualy hides it pretty well and keep snow from getting in the end of the female connection, I ran the wires ahead of the steering post down the center of the post loop and straight forward to the headlight area and cut wire to length to meet up with the stock LH side headlight bulb plugin stripped wires back installed 2 red male connectors and plugged them in to the headlight plugin, (I`ll find out the actual color of the wires on the connector I plugged into and post later) not sure which one was high or low beams cause my lever on the highbeam control is broke off so didn`t really matter, most that have a helmet light just wire it into the hight beam side so if you plug the helmet light in it will only turn on when you switch to highbeams. took me about 20minutes to install and another 5 to put the velcro on the helmet and bottom of the light. I positioned it on top of my helmet stagger to one side cause my Go Pro mount is stuck top center.

Here is a pic of the light assembly in package.

Plug in and slack left, really didn`t have to leave alot of slack there is more then enough cable or wire attached to the Helmet light. I zip tie the wire to the bar risers for no movement

Pic of Wires connected to headlight plug in, ( I didn`t hook up the tail light option on the helmet light didn`t really see a need for it.

Pic of Light on helmet, and 2nd one of how I off set it, I left a longer strip of plastic side of velcro on the helmet longer than the base of the light so I could possition it a bit more forward or rearward adjusting the aim and how it would shine ahead of the sled.

Light will be in tunnel bag, Hopefully won`t have to use it for a emergency reason...

Helmet is a Gmax 46x Helmet only Brand I can find that fits me good, I repainted all Black last year, had worn it for 4yrs now, goggles are 509 sinister snow camo I have 2 identical set, with clear lenzs I can`t run tinted of any color we are always in overcast of foggy type days and tinted lenzs for me just block the shape of the turrane, only set that helped was a set of
Scott 89xi with orange lenzs but they were to bulky of a goggle, the 509 orange or hellow is not as good to me as the 509 but the 509`s are much more comfortable, I added a Habervision antifog fan this year I purchased for $20 see how it works.

Today I also cleaned the Primary and Secondary clutchs with green scotch pad and warm water and dish soap, along with the 2 New 166 Belts I purchased from ONE ( a member on her, Thank you for the great deal on the 2 belts) 1 as installed main primary belt 1 under hood in spare belt position and also have a new 383 belt that has only 1 ride on it, its the 166 factory replacement belt skidoo offers that really isn`t that great of a belt I cleaned it up to and have it in my tunnel bag. So I carry 3 belts this sled isn`t a belt eater but I blew up 2 well used belts in the Blues Moutains last season on hot spring days so I`m not goin with out, don`t like being towed out on a running sled, Lol

Thanks, Wildcard

 

[FNG]

Love the build!

The Lead Dog head light system ROCKS! for night riding.

 

[wildcard28]

Love the build!

The Lead Dog head light system ROCKS! for night riding.

Thanks, FNG

Never got a chance to test ride the Lead dog light, was going to put it on and ride down the road and back up friends house didn`t get the chance, we went up to for a New Years party and went sledding the next morning, I`ll take it for a spin around the grassy field one evening this week with the Go Pro on, want to see how far it lights up. Says in instruction around a mile ahead.

ya has been pretty fun, Got on first ride today rode great I think I nailed about everything on this build, I didn`t have to adjust bar riser angel, handlebar angle, brake lever. Only thing I changed is before I loaded the sled I got it set on flat concrete and had the wife look at how the skid reacted when I would lift the back of the sled off the ground, Alway had good luck with it lifted front and back of rails evenly or the rear of the skid slightly coming up first. this time it was even, I tighened the limiter strap up a bit had it set loose almost sloppy last season, this time I adjusted it to where there was just a little bit of slack, and moved the rear spring adjustment up one position to 3, after riding since the frontend it narrowed and the simmons skis bite pretty well the front end would bit hard and almost want to tip over, I beleive it was cause I had the front shock set soft, like #1 and the suspension was compressing on the outside this seems worse since there is no swaybar. so I tried moving the shock stiffer to the #2 position and you can feel it did help will go to 3 next ride, but the sled still lays over nice.

Wanted to actually get a ride out on it with just the frontend narrowed and stock skid, and now the next ride will have a T Motion in it so We`ll see how it handles differently, and after that Track Breaking time..

The used Habervision antifog fan I purchased for $20 didn`t help with foggin while riding, seemed to defog good after I had taken the helmet off, Lol.
Maybe I just fog goggles more than most, huh (509 Sinisters) I usually clean with antifog spray before everyride and didn`t do that this time and did have worse fogging problems and we only rode from my buddies house for 3hrs.

Might research the New Klim No Fog goggles they claim..

Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

T motion in progress

Hello everyone I receive the T Motion kit Thursday and go it out to the box and layed the kit out to get a pic of it along with the xp 154 rails I purchased and the front plastic tip for the rails and black Hyfaxs (not in pic).

I started installin the it in the rails and as I expected was missing some parts and components. Since I don`t have an XP or am starting with an xp rear skid there are some parts not in the kit that are intended to be Reused as from an XP skid since this kit is intended to upgrade an existing xp skid.

Not a big problem figured out what I needed pretty quick and what parts will come from the Rev skid and can be used with the install of the kit. I will put together a list of the parts I had to order that are suposed to be here Tuesday of next week, Jan/8.

for instance, I will be able to use the Rev shocks X model or not, Front shock will measure on the rev or xp of a ctc of 13-13 1/4inchs and the rear shock of 17inchs, also the spacer sleeve, bolt and inside and outside washers that go thru the bottom swivel of the rear scissor mount can be installed in the rear scissor of the Tmo kit. Along with the springs and the plastic mounts and bolts the spring go thru on the rails, tmo kit comes with new steel lower shock mount shaft but no spacers and washers but I used the ones from the Rev suspension I just didn`t use the steel new shock bar I put the alumimun one from the rev in the complete rev lower shock shaft with spacers, washer and bolts went right into the xp rails, kit also came with new steel front rail crossbar the limiter strap goes around and I swapped the Rev aluminum bar over to the xp rails also all bolts holes are correct size I installed the aluminum bars for weight aluminum rather than steel (little here little there adds up). I also was able to use the aluminum spacer with the set screw in it that goes on the top or the rear scissor mount outside the upper wheels and put those onto the same spot on the upper scissor or rear pivot assembly of the Tmo to hold the wheels just like the rev or any other skid. other parts transfered over were the screw and nut in the front of the rails that retain the hyfaxs from sliding, used the front bottom out bumpers from the front of the rev skid rails but have to drill a new hole higher up the rail cause the xp front bumpers hole is farther to the center of the side of the rail, the kit comes with new Rear Pivot assem. bumpers for the rails just not bolts use them from the rev skid also.

Will post the parts and part numbers of what I had to order in next post or when they come in.

Here is a pic of the pic layed out with the rails I purchased

Here is a pic of the Tmo rear inner 2whl kit it has this cool spacer that goes over a lip made into the rear wheels giving the 2whl kit more stability of the wheels I have read some posts where people are concerned of the instability of the inner wheel and also heard of others breaking the wheels over sideways etc.. which leads to some to install a 3rd inner wheel but this pipe type spacer that skidoo has between the wheels along with the the aluminum spacer over the axle between the wheels or bearing also makes for a real strong set up

Here are the Wheel that come with the kit upper and rear 8inch.

Here are the Yellow XP 8inch Rear axle wheels I am going to use and the plastic pipe reinforcement spacer I talked about above also goes on these or maybe all xp summit wheels also the same way the Tmo rear wheels do. I would recomment this piece along for anyone who has xp type inner 2 wheel kit this piece would make any xp or someone running xp type wheels on a 2 whl kit stronger, great idea skidoo... This whole kit is pretty Impressive..

Here are pics of the Front and Rear arms. the front arm is split from the factory on the bottom between where the shock rocker mount and the inside of the rail for twist type movement. they are actually noticeably lighter than the stock Rev ones, I will weigh comparisons and post later on.

When the rest of the required parts come in and the Whole T Motion kit is installed to a complete rear skid assembly I will get a baseline measurement from the drive shaft to the rear axle position and A skid to skid comparison measurments and will then figure the difference in arm lengths etc So I will know where to drill for the front arm mounting position they its measureing back 30inchs which is what XP Summit and XM Tmo CTC is..

The actual Rev parts I have used or swapped onto the Tmo install so far are from the 05 Rev skid that Was in my Wifes sled the 97 Summit I have been putting back together for her, (It was my first Skidoo I rode for a few years with a 98` 670X engine, 154 AC Challenger track, then converted to 700 Mach 1 Tripple lots of power, then I purchased my Rev and parted most of it out, Now almost got it back together until I stole the rear skid. Lol after the Tmo is in the Rev I am swapping my skid back to her sled. sound like alot but not really..

Finally got out for first ride last sunday in light harder snow and the narrow front end felt realy good and worked great so far even tho we rode for only 2 1/2 hrs right from my buddies house and back New Years Day.

Sorry about the Long read but Bear with me, wont`t be long and this will be complete and I will have detailed infor measurents and best I can do to help anyone out who wants to do this to there sled, so please post any comments or question anyone might have and I`ll include them in this build and install.

Here what the sled currently looks like and before first ride only difference now is new Snowbunje Handlebar bag set up from Wife for Christmas and My Tunnel bag installed on the tunnel.

Sled has the stock 144 Rear skid and Rails with Tracks USA 144-159 Rail Extensions, (7.5inchs long) and a Homemade 2whl kit. The Rail Extensions will be for sale after Tmo is installed.


Thanks, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello, I receive most of the extra parts I ordered to complete the skid assembly only waitin on 2 parts go figure its the ones I needed the most. should be here tomorrow or next day or two, my dealer is good and have had good luck and quick arival with everything I have ordered before I started this Tmo mod now it seems they can`t get there arival dates correct. anyway when last 2 parts come it I`m going to have a pretty detailed assembly and installation of this mod and kit with plenty of pic . Hope it helps or inspires other to do the same.

Again will also have a detailed list of the parts I had to order Not alot so total cost of this mod will still be cheaper than about any aftermarket skid.

Wildcard

Thanks, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

Hello got all the parts in yhae! so other than honing out the front eyelet on the afermarket shock that was on my rev skid to fit the bushing spacer supplied in the kit all the skid is assembled and complete I have the sled over at my sisters garage and removed the skid to get some side by side measurements and figureing to see just where the skid is going to mount in the sled, I somewhat centered there rear axles in there slides except I move the T Motion skid rear axle a bit farther back so I would have enough track adjustment after installed and also to make up the difference in 7inch to 8inch wheel size difference. Then I slide both skids side by side square and slid the rear wheels against a wall to compare the lengths in skids, anyway going to be more detailed when I get the skid mounted and then I can go over all what I did and post it here.

Here is a quick pic of the skids rear axles skid against the wall

here is a side by side pic

Here is a shot of the difference in the front angle, cool cause before I had the rails starting to hit the drivers to where I had to mount the stock skid in the D&R chassis. had a tunnel support bracket interfere in where I wanted to mount it and had to bolt it in about 1 1/4inchs farther forward than I wanted.
so rail tips would slightly touch the drivers on big bumps, won`t have that prob with the xp tmo skid. Tmo skid is shorter so track angle will be improved even better.

got it together and my grandson gets to ride it before me, He just walked up tonight and climbed right on, Lol

another cool thing is someone already had ice scratchers on these rails so the ones I had on the Rev skid bolted right on and even farther forward than before which will work alot better.

Will have The skid install all complete this weekend and will try to have the rest of this install thread complete also.

Thanks, Wildcard

 

[BackCountryBob]

I e-mailed my BCB Gen 1 mods to you yesterday. Looks like you're on the T-motion home stretch--waiting for the snow performance test results.

BCB

 

[wildcard28]

Hello BCB, got your pics pretty good ideas. I`ll try those out.

Tmotion is pretty much done. all mounted up today other than I was a bit off on position calculations and have to move the skid back another 1 1/2inchs cause the rear axle adjustment is pretty much maxed out. all adjusted up good way it is I just want more so going to move it back. Hopefully my buddy can get his sled back together so we can get out riding next weekend. He went for a ride from his house yesterday and Chain in the chaincase as he throttled up a jump and chain blew the side out of the main case, driveshaft and gears says are ok just has to change case and chain.

Thanks, Wildcard

 

[wildcard28]

T Motion install write up 1

Hello every one I got the T Motion all mounted up in the sled today other than have to slide it back a bit to allow for more rear axle adjustment.

I`ll start off with a Lists and as many part number of parts I purchased that I started with and had to gather as I was putting this project together, First I start with ordering the T Motion kit from my dealer Mac`s Cycle here in Clarkston wa where I live they let me order it and make installments on it to have it paid for before it arived which I did , a week before the first arival date and after a few anoying arival date set backs comes in. When I ordered the kit I figured I would get a bunch of measurements from an XP Summit and mount the kit into my stock Rev rail, (which can be done pretty easy) but I was browsing thru Ebay and found a set of 08` 154 XP Summit rails for $60 shipped I couldn`t pass that kind of deal up and a set of new Black Hyfax`s for $38 shipped so I decided to go the easier route and mount the kit in those rails. So I ordered from the dealer the Front plastic runner tips for the rails.

My sled has a 159 Track on it so I knew it would take some measurements and figureing just where I was to set the and where to mount it since I was going from a Chassis that has a VE Drop and Roll in it that is 1 3/4down and 1 1/4 back with the Jackshaft in the tunnel , and since after the D&R I couldn`t bolt the front arm exactly where it needed for the equal skid setback and down to match the D&R, cause of a tunnel and running support bracket that had a reinforcement rib on it in the exact spot just where I needed to drill my hole I could of removed it but would of hindered the strength of the front of the running boards so unfortuneltly I had to mount the skid 1 1/4 farther forward ahead of this rip or crese in that bracket , but it set in a good enough position and had correct adjustment of the rear axle with stock 7inch wheels, Now I have to configure where to drill and correctly mount a 154 skid with 8inch wheels and has different length front arm that set in a totaly different positioning in the rails than the Rev and the CTC went from 32inch to 30inchs, also wasn`t sure if I had to relocate the VE drop bractet, This skid comparison and figureing was the most dificult part.

I will explain all what I did in next Post. With Plenty pics

I knew I could interchange some parts from my or a Rev rear skid and some parts could adapt to the Tmo kit or at least I hoped I could, So now I needed to know if the Rev Shocks would swap over to the XP skid, which would of been a big purchase if they didn`t and after extentful research on Here, Dootalk and about every rev and xp shock listing on ebay I could come across I found that the Rev and XP Summit front and rear shock were or are the same length. and have the same diameter eyelets, bushings and bolt sizes so here is the research I ended up with and the shock comparisons..
Front shocks 13inchs eye to eye
Rear shocks 17 1/4inchs eye to eye,
I found a bunch of 17inch shocks and wasn`t sure what the difference would be but after installing the kit in the rails the last week I found the Rear shock Cannot be any shorter than 17 1/4 the 17 lacks just that much to install and if you try to force it on it messes up the whole movement of the rear scissor assembly action since It ties in with the bottom rear of the front arm which the bottom of the rear shock actually mounts along with some aluminum strut bars that go from the bottom of the front arms rocker assembly up to the front postition of the rear scissor assembly , completely different design than the Rev.

So I took the 05 Rev skid out of my wifes 97 Summit I have been putting together for her and took it apart to see what I could use from it.

I also learned that the Tmo kit skidoo offers it an actually intented as an upgrade kit for an xp skid so there are parts that need to be purchased to complete the assembly unless you have an XP skid assembly to start with then its a directcomplete bolt in.

So for parts I had to order, I found on a Microfiche Here http://www.shspowersports.com/default.asp which other than my dealer is where I buy all my OEM parts, great price alot of times I show print outs from here to my dealer and they price match or get pretty darn close. and don`t charge me shipping.

Here is the XP parts I had to list according to the Microfiche

# on Microfichs breakdown pictures

Tmotion kit 860200763 $326

XP 154 rails / Ebay $60 shipped

163 Hyfaxs black/ Ebay $36 shipped
(cut to length)
#9 Front rail runners / x2 503191137 $4.73/ea
shorter bolt thru bumpers and rails, washers and nuts reused
from rev skid

"Front Arm:
#30 Axle bar / x2 503190643 $7,50/ea
Will have to purchase new 2 new bolts and washers that go
aluminum strut rods and axle bars front and rear, the instructions
of the kit this is easily seen
#25 Bushing /x2 503191262 $7.50/ea
(x4 outer arm bushing for mounting bolts same as rear arm

"Rear Arm:
#38 Cushion, /x1 (bushing upper) 414936000 $5.92
Lower shock bushing is discarded
#34 Axle bar /x1 503190643 $7.50
Same as front arm
One of the new bolts needed explained above is same length and
goes thru outer aluminum strut rod and this axle bar to
#24 Bushing /x2 503191262 $7.50/ea
Outer upper scissor assembly same as outer front arm

"Rear Axle:
#30 Spacer /x2 503190428 $3.55/ea
Platic spacer between inner wheels and rails
#22 Tensioner straps /x2 503192814 $3.55/ea
Adjuster bolt & nuts are reused from rev skid
New shorter bolts needed for tensioner strap
(harware store)

"Parts Reused from Rev Skid:
Front upper inner cross shaft down inside center of upper arm between
bushings that the skid mouting bolt threads into.
Front shock, upper bolt
Front shock lower mounting shaft all washers and spacers over shaft,
bolts and washer inside and outside of rails
(Tmo kit comes with new steel lower shock shaft that all spacers,
washers each side of shocks are suposed to go over and came with new
thru bolt that is smaller than the hole in the rails that you are supposed
to install a sleeve over the bolt and slides in the rail cause the hole in
rails is bigger than the new supplied bolt) I installed the complete Rev
lower shock shaft assembly for weight purposes cause its all aluminum
and the bolt from the Rev shaft are the same as the xp rails.
Front cross shaft and outer bolts that limiter strap wraps around
(Tmo kit came with new steel shaft and bolts I installed the Rev Aluminum
one for weight purposes)
Rear upper inner cross shaft down inside center of arm betweed
bushings that the skid mounting bolt threads into
Rear shock, upper bolt and spacer (I purchased a new spacer listed in
above list)
Rear springs
Rear spring plastic rail mounts, bolts, inside washers
Outer aluminum wheel collars w/ set screw in them, outside of top wheels
(don`t tighten set screw to tight or till mounted in sled, it sqeezes the
upper arm shaft and locks the bushing from moving.
Bolt, inner and outer washers that go thru lower scissor assembly piece
along with the pipe or tube spacer that goes over the bolt and inside
the lower scissor assembly
Bolt, washers,nuts from Rev plastic rail ends installed in XP new rail plastic
ends
Screw and nut that goes thru Hyfaxs and rails
Ice Scratchers (the rails I purchased had previous holes for scratchers, cool
I didn`t have to drill just bolt on, but did have to discard the big washer
that went between the scratcher spring or rod and the rail wouldn`t fit


Will start the rest of the install in the next Post.

Thanks, Wildcard