You can.....but if the stock helix bolts are in there, it's easier to just pull the darn thing out. You need the proper tool to compress the spring prior to loosening any bolts on the helix either way....
XP RPM issue
- Thread starter bigbird
- Start date
S
Sasksummit
Member
Thanks DaveB
So what does this tool look like?
I have checked for hoses that might be off and I can't see anything.
I have had to adjust the clicker twice so far but it has been warmer around hear lately.
Just hate driving 8 hours to have it run like a dog.
used to the 06 just pull the rope and gasser.
So what does this tool look like?
I have checked for hoses that might be off and I can't see anything.
I have had to adjust the clicker twice so far but it has been warmer around hear lately.
Just hate driving 8 hours to have it run like a dog.
used to the 06 just pull the rope and gasser.
U
Unklsnomobile
Active member
RPM loss
Just curious how many miles you had on when this happened. I have the same problem. Working perfect for half the day, then started to loose RPM's. Only 200 km on my sled. Anyone else think this could be computer related? It was a warm day. I changed belts, adjusted deflection, let the clutches cool down, no difference.
Just curious how many miles you had on when this happened. I have the same problem. Working perfect for half the day, then started to loose RPM's. Only 200 km on my sled. Anyone else think this could be computer related? It was a warm day. I changed belts, adjusted deflection, let the clutches cool down, no difference.
When coolant temperature gets over 137 degrees, the ECU changes the powercurve - you lose power) .
Big John recommends the engine tech thermo housing if this is the case.
Big John recommends the engine tech thermo housing if this is the case.
U
Unklsnomobile
Active member
temp issues
Is this just with the 09's? I never had this with my 08. I'm heading out again this week. It will be a little cooler, so I can see if the sled runs normal again. There is a couple other sleds in our area that have the same problem. One guy changed the thermo housing, but still the same problem. Thanks for the info guys. We will figure this out (hopefully soon)
Is this just with the 09's? I never had this with my 08. I'm heading out again this week. It will be a little cooler, so I can see if the sled runs normal again. There is a couple other sleds in our area that have the same problem. One guy changed the thermo housing, but still the same problem. Thanks for the info guys. We will figure this out (hopefully soon)
An Update of my customers.
As previous mentioned, I have had a (using less flyweight than normal) observation with some 2009 kit owners now and this was the result(s)
*Knock sensor codes in ECU but does not siren on dash. Upload an update in the ECU needed.
*Overheat codes in ECU but does not siren on dash.
These two codes put the ECU set into permanent "limp home" mode.
Codes need to be checked with BUDS, then cleared and the mechanic will update the ECU with a reflash that changes the range of the knock sensor - the ECU will have a toggle switched in it so you are allowed to reset by the owner shutting the engine off and restart.
If this limp home mode is tripped off from the knock sensor, then you are looking at least 12 hp loss from the engine (info from Glenn Linden) and will have difficulty wanting to rev past its peak torque rpms.
Can you go to your dealer with the sled and have this checked out with the BUDS system?
or
Get ot to bring along his potato masher and yell at your sled, scaring it into fixing itself.
As previous mentioned, I have had a (using less flyweight than normal) observation with some 2009 kit owners now and this was the result(s)
*Knock sensor codes in ECU but does not siren on dash. Upload an update in the ECU needed.
*Overheat codes in ECU but does not siren on dash.
These two codes put the ECU set into permanent "limp home" mode.
Codes need to be checked with BUDS, then cleared and the mechanic will update the ECU with a reflash that changes the range of the knock sensor - the ECU will have a toggle switched in it so you are allowed to reset by the owner shutting the engine off and restart.
If this limp home mode is tripped off from the knock sensor, then you are looking at least 12 hp loss from the engine (info from Glenn Linden) and will have difficulty wanting to rev past its peak torque rpms.
Can you go to your dealer with the sled and have this checked out with the BUDS system?
or
Get ot to bring along his potato masher and yell at your sled, scaring it into fixing itself.
Or you can continue to listen to a guy named Joe who will feed you this.......
S
Sasksummit
Member
where can one get the thermostat hsg to run at 120?
B
bigbird
Well-known member
turns out i'm a retard and accidently put on a 166 belt instead of the 377. sled is rockin hard again. Thanks Joe for an excellent product. sled pulls hard all the way through, holds rpm on big climbs and the backshift is incredible.
B
bigbird
Well-known member
engine tech
occured faults vs. active faults
Took my sled to the dealer and it had two coolant high temp codes, he called them occured codes but that they were not active codes. and that they would not have permanantly set the timing back, They did not know were to find the manual reset in the computer program. This dealer has only been in business about a year. any ideas?????
An Update of my customers.
As previous mentioned, I have had a (using less flyweight than normal) observation with some 2009 kit owners now and this was the result(s)
*Knock sensor codes in ECU but does not siren on dash. Upload an update in the ECU needed.
*Overheat codes in ECU but does not siren on dash.
These two codes put the ECU set into permanent "limp home" mode.
Codes need to be checked with BUDS, then cleared and the mechanic will update the ECU with a reflash that changes the range of the knock sensor - the ECU will have a toggle switched in it so you are allowed to reset by the owner shutting the engine off and restart.
If this limp home mode is tripped off from the knock sensor, then you are looking at least 12 hp loss from the engine (info from Glenn Linden) and will have difficulty wanting to rev past its peak torque rpms.
Can you go to your dealer with the sled and have this checked out with the BUDS system?
or
Get ot to bring along his potato masher and yell at your sled, scaring it into fixing itself.
Took my sled to the dealer and it had two coolant high temp codes, he called them occured codes but that they were not active codes. and that they would not have permanantly set the timing back, They did not know were to find the manual reset in the computer program. This dealer has only been in business about a year. any ideas?????
I got to look at the BEST myself.
Could not find anything about the coolant thingy however it was a doo mechanic that told me what I reported.
Right now Campaign # 2009-10 Detonation Level Detected
Unit will reveal permanent limp home situation code P-1326
Solution - Upload new calibration.
This calibration allows to reset the limp-home mode by shutting off unit, then restart instead of having to use BUDS.
So its not a toggle the mechanic can set, rather the new upload calibration.
All I gotta say from customers who've done this ended up putting back in 1.5 to 2 grams of flyweight. I would make a guestimate that just took the sled from being a 600(800 in limp) back to a screaming 800.
Happy that brp is taking care of this (im not being sarcastic either) it's putting smile back on my customer's faces. heeeeeeeee
Could not find anything about the coolant thingy however it was a doo mechanic that told me what I reported.
Right now Campaign # 2009-10 Detonation Level Detected
Unit will reveal permanent limp home situation code P-1326
Solution - Upload new calibration.
This calibration allows to reset the limp-home mode by shutting off unit, then restart instead of having to use BUDS.
So its not a toggle the mechanic can set, rather the new upload calibration.
All I gotta say from customers who've done this ended up putting back in 1.5 to 2 grams of flyweight. I would make a guestimate that just took the sled from being a 600(800 in limp) back to a screaming 800.
Happy that brp is taking care of this (im not being sarcastic either) it's putting smile back on my customer's faces. heeeeeeeee
When hooked up to BUDS in the fault section of the program, there's a bar to click on at the bottom of the page reading "clear all faults". Just click on that then before exiting click on the top left of the main page reading "Write Data" just to be safe, then top right hit "exit"
S
Sasksummit
Member
So I took mine in and the were no codes.
There were a couple setting that were off from setup.
The idle setting or maybe throttle possition sett was out. was at 0 need to be at 4.
Full throttle was only 95% got that fixed hope it changes it.
There were a couple setting that were off from setup.
The idle setting or maybe throttle possition sett was out. was at 0 need to be at 4.
Full throttle was only 95% got that fixed hope it changes it.
S
Sasksummit
Member
So i took my clutch apart today and the are we definitly gummed up.
Clean them put it back together and it seems better.
Still going to have to pull some weight out I think.
Clean them put it back together and it seems better.
Still going to have to pull some weight out I think.
Last edited:
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Unklsnomobile
Active member
Went out again today. Nice 6" - 10" of fresh snow, and a little cooler than last week. My sled ran perfect. 8100 all day long with 78km track speed. Obviously no clutching issues. I'm guessing the only reason I was loosing RPM last week was the +11 C. I think you got this one bang on Dynamo Joe. So does this mean I have to change the thermo housing, or is there another way to fix this? I still like to do some spring riding.
had the same issues with my sled no longer reving past 76-7800 and found it to be a simple fix. It was time for a new belt. The original 377 must have been worn out of spec. Belt was still at good adjustment but must have been too narrow. So before everyone starts replacing this n that check your belt. Had 81-8300 all day in heavy wet snow at 50 degrees F.
How many grams are you running and what elevation?
Joey
Joey
S
Sasksummit
Member
Well went out for a rip around here with the set scews out. They are going back in. It was reving to high before it engaged and didn`t seem to do anything when running WFO except pull down easier.
