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XP RPM issue

B

bigbird

Well-known member
couple weeks ago i put a clutch kit on my XP. next trip out it worked great held constant rpm on clicker 4 with no fade. this past weekend i was out and now the sled won't rev past 7900. went from clicker 4 to 6 and maybe gained 100rpm. on the trail at low elevation (1200ft.) i can get to maybe 8200 when the previous week i was banging the limiter on clicker 4. I don't think it is clutch related, could it be rave valves? or maybe electrical?. any thoughts appreciated.

Kelly
 
Check your secondary bushings. They wear quickly. Also check all your primary parts as well. Very weak point on the XP's
 
That kit you purchased does not hold RPM from 1 week to the next. I tested against that kit on several occasions in deep mountain snow and on every occasion the owner complains that it must be something else. The owner of the kit would call the seller of the kit and the seller suggested something else was wrong with the sled.

Why are you in clicker #4 at 1200 feet ? That in itself speaks volumns about the kit you bought.

OT
 
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That kit you purchased does not hold RPM from 1 week to the next. I tested against that kit on several occasions in deep mountain snow and on every occasion the owner complains that it must be something else. The owner of the kit would call the seller of the kit and the seller suggested something else was wrong with the sled.

Why are you in clicker #4 at 1200 feet ? That in itself speaks volumns about the kit you bought.

OT

1200ft. is the staging area. we ride aroung 6000ft. 6000ft. on clicker 4 ran 8200ish, and would bang the rev limiter coming down the mountain to 1200ft.
 
Im on clicker #2 at 6000 feet and never higher than clicker #3 at 10,000 feet.

OT

I run clicker #1 at 13,000 feet. I must have the best clutch kit ever!!!

On a slightly constructive note: Bigbird, some people are finding the DPM solenoid is sticking, causing a rich condition and a loss of RPMs. That's pretty easy to check. Otherwise, I would start checking bushings, buttons and rollers in clutches, as others have suggested. Could be as simple as cleaning your raves; maybe a torn rave bellow.
 
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I just had similar issues but not quite as bad. I thought it might be the 2ndary spring so I replaced it but while i was at it, i found my DPM hose was off so i plugged it back in and Voila, I'm back. Also have a buddy that lost about 1000 RPM a few weeks ago and found his DPM was not working. He cleaned it and tested it and the problem was immediately fixed.

That being said, I doubt it is clutching and most likely is your DPM or Rave valves. If not, then for $20 buy a secondary spring for a 2007 800R and grind the tit off and run it. If you are getting good RPM on trail but not in snow, it could be that simple.
 
For a sled to observe good rpms on one weekend(s) then the next weekend and out of the blue reveals fluctuating rpms, then something other than clutching is wrong.

Principle - clicker angle determines rpm response (rpm recovery/acceleration)
Clicker # can influence 150~250 rpms under full throttle.
2 clicker values can influence 300~500 rpms under full throttle.

If you were to do this on the weekend that the sled runs good, going from 8200 in clicker 4 and for fun change up to clicker 6, then you would probably observe the engine maintaining rpms just under the rev limiter or at the rev limiter.

You mention 2 clicker changes and only 100 rpms difference from 4 to 6. I would point the finger towards something in engine management/fuel delivery.
Previously when the sled observed proper rpms then a clicker change to reveal higher rpms, the engine has the power to overcome the flyweight in the higher clicker position and eventually hit the rev limiter.
If the engine does not hit the rev limiter, then what would cause the engine to run low rpms under full throttle? Power is down?

My experiences with 2009 models this season, my own and customer feedback.
*Broken/cracked Rave valve ear
*Sticking rave valve not allowing full rave opening (Possible brand of oil causing this)
*Sticking/corroded DPM solenoid
*DPM hose connection failed.

Other...
Secondary spring from factory is 20~25 lbs less install force than is supposed to be.
With 4 sleds I have helped 3 guys cure their low rpm problem in deep snow by replacing the stock purple secondary spring with a Rev 800 secondary spring BRP#414978300. What you have to do to get this spring to install is grind the tang off the end of the spring then it fits nicely into the XP secondary.
There was one gent to where this did not help out, a different primary spring was needed for his particular application.

I would have the DPM cycled and tested by a BRP tech.
As elevation increase, the dpm make the jetting leaner, if not working then the engine will run rich and not want to rpm correctly.

----------------------------

or go by ot's logical reasoning. HAHAHHAA... joking of course.

Enjoy your week here at Snowest, free of ot.
 
Another thing I forgot on the 09 model.

If having good performance and then another weekend having rpm problems, when you do take to the dealer, get them to plug into BUDS to check out if;
*Code - Knock sensor out of range
*Code - High coolant temp.

As is right now you cannot reset these details and they may not show up on the dash revealing a code. You have to get the dealer to reset however ask them if they can switch a toggle in the ECU so that you will be able to reset the codes by shutting the engine off, powering down the ECU, then restart engine.
 
For a sled to observe good rpms on one weekend(s) then the next weekend and out of the blue reveals fluctuating rpms, then something other than clutching is wrong.

Principle - clicker angle determines rpm response (rpm recovery/acceleration)
Clicker # can influence 150~250 rpms under full throttle.
2 clicker values can influence 300~500 rpms under full throttle.

If you were to do this on the weekend that the sled runs good, going from 8200 in clicker 4 and for fun change up to clicker 6, then you would probably observe the engine maintaining rpms just under the rev limiter or at the rev limiter.

You mention 2 clicker changes and only 100 rpms difference from 4 to 6. I would point the finger towards something in engine management/fuel delivery.
Previously when the sled observed proper rpms then a clicker change to reveal higher rpms, the engine has the power to overcome the flyweight in the higher clicker position and eventually hit the rev limiter.
If the engine does not hit the rev limiter, then what would cause the engine to run low rpms under full throttle? Power is down?

My experiences with 2009 models this season, my own and customer feedback.
*Broken/cracked Rave valve ear
*Sticking rave valve not allowing full rave opening (Possible brand of oil causing this)
*Sticking/corroded DPM solenoid
*DPM hose connection failed.

Other...
Secondary spring from factory is 20~25 lbs less install force than is supposed to be.
With 4 sleds I have helped 3 guys cure their low rpm problem in deep snow by replacing the stock purple secondary spring with a Rev 800 secondary spring BRP#414978300. What you have to do to get this spring to install is grind the tang off the end of the spring then it fits nicely into the XP secondary.
There was one gent to where this did not help out, a different primary spring was needed for his particular application.

I would have the DPM cycled and tested by a BRP tech.
As elevation increase, the dpm make the jetting leaner, if not working then the engine will run rich and not want to rpm correctly.

----------------------------

or go by ot's logical reasoning. HAHAHHAA... joking of course.

Enjoy your week here at Snowest, free of ot.


I agree. I only put the clutch kit info in as it was just recently installed. I am pretty sure it is either DPM or rave valve related. should have a chance to look at it this afternoon.

Kelly
 
This is exactly what happened to my sled. Was ripping in the morning holding revs perfectly. Then as the day went on it started to not pull RPM. Clickering up did not really help. In the climb it would start to pull down until I would have to turn out. After checking compression, raves, DPM, and primary clutch all were good. I then pulled secondary apart and bushings were shot, rollers worn and spring was sagged out. Definately something to check on yours.
 
This is exactly what happened to my sled. Was ripping in the morning holding revs perfectly. Then as the day went on it started to not pull RPM. Clickering up did not really help. In the climb it would start to pull down until I would have to turn out. After checking compression, raves, DPM, and primary clutch all were good. I then pulled secondary apart and bushings were shot, rollers worn and spring was sagged out. Definately something to check on yours.

Nice of Doo to put a non-serviceable bushing in the secondary, eh?
 
How many miles before people are having to change the secondary rollers?
Is there anyway to check without pulling the secondary apart?
 
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