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Water to air intercooler......... Closed loop

I measured my clearance this weekend, and I could clear a 3" but barely

If it is to close you could also drop rear suspension to the lower holes front and back, it would give you about 3/4'' more. I actually called Kevin earlier today and asked about doing this with his skid and he said it would be fine, but machine will act as if front end is a bit lighter. If I end up doing a separate cooler this what I will end up doing I'm sure. I like the more tipy/less ski pressure feel anyway.:tea:
 
How thick is your cooler running down the middle?

The cooler itself is quite thin probably less than .5 inch. The tubes that run the coolant to the cooler are .5 inch aluminum square tubing that run inside the right side of the tunnel. If I was going to have an issue it would be here and I could notch the lugs on that side.
 
This is just merely an example:

If I built an exchanger for a snow machine I would make all lines very straight with exact bends.

I had a customer ask me to get their in floor heat hooked up to their wood furnace about a month ago and I made this exchanger to extract heat out of it. This furnace was not designed from the factory to incorporate any sort of an exchanger, so it was a PITA! Mostly due to tight working conditions. Started with 3/4 copper and t-drilled into side and capped at each end. Made several loops of 3/8, ended up with about 50ft total inside. When a good hot fire was going coolant going in was about 80 degrees (return from floor) and 130 degrees coming right out of wood furnace (supply to floor).

If a guy were to make a cooler using similar principle of the one in the pics it should work very well. There is a 13'' by 60'' rectangle of room between the two coolers which run all the way down tunnel, then from front bulk head cooler to back cooler on a 162'' m. I estimated tonight looking under mine (skid is out) that I could fit 8-9 loops (about 9-10 ft per loop) above the track. Cooler would be really low pro, only about a total of a 1/2'' tall. This would include sections of flattened out 1/2'' I.D. copper that would be brazed to all 3/8 O.D. running perpendicular to them. You would drill through these flattened pieces and rivet the whole exchanger in the tunnel as one piece. So all in all a guy could have from roughly 72-90ft of exposed exchanger above track in tunnel! There is really no way this would not produce super cold liquid temps right before inner cooler. The only times the loops would be perpendicular to track would be at very front right close to front cooler, there is a decent void there anyway when track goes around drivers, and at very rear just in front of factory rear cooler, there is always a big gap due to tunnel tipping up after rear suspension drop brackets. It is lower pro than factory coolers anyway. Copper should be more resilient than factory aluminum coolers too, copper can dent quite a ways before it will split, if a rock or something hit it, unlike aluminum. If a loop got smashed flat for some reason coolant would still have many others to flow through. Everything would need to be brazed, not soldered. I am talking about soft copper (comes in a roll of 60-100ft usually), not straight sticks of 10-20ft.

Snowest seams to have a problem with getting images uploaded tonight so I will try editing this post tomorrow and put the pic of the wood furnace exchanger up, it will help you see kind of what I'm talking about.

:tea:

Not much snow yet so decided to make exchanger over the past few days. Front section by bulkhead looks like one piece but it is not, there is a cap brazed in the middle so that exchanger makes a loop. Made as one piece up front for strength. Ended up with about 75' of 3/8 O.D. under tunnel total.

I have about a 1/2" gap between 3" ce and exchanger entire length of tunnel with kmod in both upper suspension holes. Feed and return come up just in front of gas tank near bulk head.

exchanger 1.jpg exchanger 2.jpg exchanger 3.jpg exchanger 4.jpg exchanger 5.jpg exchanger 6.jpg exchanger 7.jpg
 
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Am going to use the Bosch pump with a barrel style intercooler and am thinking of running straight Alcohol for coolant instead of anti-freeze, as it absorbs heat better than anything I can think of, BTW if I lose an uphill race I can drain the system and drown my sorrows.

I tried this in the system i built for my truck, The alcohol corrodes everything and lowers the coolers ability to transfer heat, it also took the seals out on my pump...
 
Is there enough power to run the bosch pump without any problems?
I was thinking of unplugging my headlights when in use.
 
Is there enough power to run the bosch pump without any problems?
I was thinking of unplugging my headlights when in use.



I bench test one last year and it was drawing less than 1 amp, there was not much of a resticton on it though, so no worries ken
 
Got testing my systen a bit more..............................

I will tell you guys one thing the water to air system I built for the m1000 blows goats! It is hard to tune, when you hit the boost the air fuel is lean and than in 4 seconds its pig rich :flock: (12.7 to 11.8) It seams worse in cold weather

I do not have enough heat exchanger, I am just running a 4x16 in the front of the bulkhead, it is a good place to have it, just not enough of it. :scared: I am going to try restricting the flow of coolant though, hopefully it will heat up faster but stay cooler. :flame:
Any one got Suggestions that are not to involving I still have a bunch of crap to fab up for other builds :help:
 
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"I will tell you guys one thing the water to air system I built for the m1000 blows goats! It is hard to tune, when you hit the boost the air fuel is lean and than in 4 seconds its pig rich (12.7 to 11.8) It seams worse in cold weather"


That seams a bit odd. You would think that the volume of your system would gain heat to a certain point and then roughly maintain a constant coolant temp. Are you shutting off the closed loop and then noticing a difference in how it runs, or vice-verse?
 
Well I might be jumping the gun on this, I never did check the coolant temp in the closed loop, just going by A/F
 
Holy Smokes!
Just got my box in from frozen boost. 13lbs :face-icon-small-con ouch!
Thats without a heat exchanger, hose and coolant.
Man that bosch pump is huge and heavy!
I sure hope this is worth it
Gonna build a huge as$ heat exchanger under the tunnel.
 
Hey Rusty.....

have ya got a chance to test your exchanger yet? I wonder how much the water part of it is going to heat up?


I think my pee would be a lot hotter :washing:
 
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Great thread!!!

I have seen NM's Boost it Nypex, Pro Rmk and Shain's Twisted kits in action and have felt the charge tubes and also feel that these types of systems are a fantastic idea.

I am considering a closed loop system my self and only have one concern. How much condensation is produced in the combustion air? Is this even a valid concern?

T.I.A.
 
Well, gott'r buttoned up!
No mountain testing yet....just potatoIMG_1163.jpg

IMG_1161_2.jpg

IMG_1162_2.jpg field low elevation.
After numerous runs with the pump unplugged, my charged air highest temp was 104 f
After numerous runs with pump plugged in, my highest charged air temp was 68f.
So its working, but untill some real world tests I won't know if it's actually any better then going with the "light" air/air BD intercooler. :face-icon-small-sho
 
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