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very frustrated w/PCV

you can try blocking off the solenoid, but as soon as i unplugged mine and ran it stock, it ran better and didnt detonate and cut out as bad.
it didnt make sense to me.... but it solved my problems
 
I think most guys covered all most everything.
The one thing I can tell you on my 07 700 I can not run the hps can on the slp pipe.
When the pipe gets hot after maybe 2 short hard pulls on the 3rd pull ( this is going up hill in deep) the r's fade off bad down to 7600 and don't recover untill cooled down.
Hps can for sale.
 
Will try this when i get back from vacacation. Leaving on sunday for a week, won't get time beforehand to do so. THanks for all of your help i have had several guys pm and email offering to help w/my fuel mapping. Thanks again!

Look guys, any fuel controller in itself does absolutely ZERO!

The mapping is the issue, and you're in control of that.

Typically the stock sled is LEAN in the mid-range and FAT on top.

Generally the maps are RICHENED up in the mid and LEANED out on top.

Sometimes it's just a matter of fine tuning the mapping

If you still think it's the PC-5, input ALL "0"s across the screen and it's as if the unit is doing nothing.




Dragon Guy,

Just because you didn't have problems prior to the PC-5 installation, something else unrelated could have gone bad at around the same time

Two things you confirmed that are not yet done on your sled.

1) For the 5 minutes it takes, SYNCH your PC-5 to the SLED, (even if Jim didn't mention it, it is in the DYNOJET instructions) that will eliminate one more possible problem.

2) SET THE T.P.S. as outlined in the INCREASING YOUR IQ THREAD at the top of this section. T.P.S. settings are CRITICAL l!!!!!!! A sled with a T.P.S. out of spec will NEVER run right, PERIOD!!!!

3) Something that's sometimes overlooked, exhaust valves, bellows, springs, possibly gummed up, check those and after that place a small set of vice grips on the purge line hose to eliminate the possible issue of the solenoid being bad

You can do all of the above in approx 2 hours, and there's a good chance you'll solve your problems and if not, you've eliminated 4 more things.


4) You said earlier your sled doesn't run right between 3500-4000 R.P.M. and since you're RICHENING up 40% throttle opening at that R.P.M. you need to take those #'s and reduce them is what it sounds like. For a quick experiment, take all those RICH POSITIVE #'s 40% and below, change them back to "0"s and take that for a test ride.
 
I have also had bad results now I have a bog in the mid range and I would like to change my map and sync my sled with my laptop, but i think the pcv program will not work with a Mac book even though I have excel. Is there any way to adjust the maps with a apple laptop.
 
SYNCHING THE t.p.s. AND pc 3/pc-5 With the ENGINE OFF

I have also had bad results now I have a bog in the mid range and I would like to change my map and sync my sled with my laptop, but i think the pcv program will not work with a Mac book even though I have excel. Is there any way to adjust the maps with a apple laptop.

For the guys that don't like running their sled at W.F.O. on the stand for a second or 2, you can apply 12 volts of power to the pigtail at the front of your sled (kinda near the hood hinges), and perform the SYNCHING your PC-3 or PC-5 to your sled with the engine off.

Just thought I would pass this along, hope it helps!
 
Kraven that 12 volt suggestion is great to know. I can't look at my sled because it is in the shop again (hoping for the best). So is this plug neg/pos sensative and what color are the wires. I plan on using it to get a feel for were my sled performs best. I have a throttle position I call 3/4 that that my sled will climb harder and higer and pull harder on the trial but I don't know what it really relates to in the PC-5 map. This should get me closer than just a guess to tune around.
 
Kraven that 12 volt suggestion is great to know. I can't look at my sled because it is in the shop again (hoping for the best). So is this plug neg/pos sensative and what color are the wires. I plan on using it to get a feel for were my sled performs best. I have a throttle position I call 3/4 that that my sled will climb harder and higer and pull harder on the trial but I don't know what it really relates to in the PC-5 map. This should get me closer than just a guess to tune around.


here is a pic of the wire diagram

on the ecu power connector that is a 3 terminal connector battery positive goes to orange wire and ground goes to the black blue wire. I installed a battery on my sled for priming the fuel pump and i installed a switch and so i can power up the ecu to do my settings on my pcv. hope this helps

here is a link to a thread where you can download the 08 shop manual http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182549

ecupower.jpg
 
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dragon,
i have '10 800 with HPS and had exact same problems with the Jan 14 reflash. i bought my PCV with map for original flash, plugged it in and the sled ripped and really cleaned it up all the way through. While i was out west in early Feb, burned out the VR and ECU, dealer fixed and put jan 14 flash on and sled ran well in WY, but crap in WI. During this time my TPS was set at .962. When i got back home i had my dealer flash back to original 2010 flash and set TPS to .938. This combination worked well in WI, but was in Alpine in early March and had engine flash @ 68-7100, but not sputtering. Snow was gone when i got home and didnt get a chance to do anymore testing. My dealer told me the day i ordered the HPS can that it would cause problems with the runability, so i wonder if i would richen the TPS back to .962 if that would help?...All i know is i am sick of "tinkering" with my $10,000 sled!
 
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