Vertical steering post for 1100t
- Thread starter d1100t
- Start date
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Evolution Powersports
Well-known member
Yes, I am saying moving the bars back gives me better control and a lighter feeling front end.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Here are a few pic. I am sure that the balance point is important on this sled. I have a new post sitting here if I decide that I do not like this. Though I am about 98% sure that having the bars not being reached for will be better. With the riser in a straight line with the post I still found as though when I was on the other side of the sled counter steering that I was having to reach down across the sled to the opposite handlebar grip. With them rotating near flat I can get out to the side of the sled and have them within reach no reaching required.
Vert steering post
Good job turbo583!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like what your doing with your steering post.
It shoud get you the handling you are looking for.
If someone builds a kit like this I would buy it as long as they price it reasonably.
An update from kingkat1150 would be greatly apreciated. Thanks.
Good job turbo583!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like what your doing with your steering post.
It shoud get you the handling you are looking for.
If someone builds a kit like this I would buy it as long as they price it reasonably.
An update from kingkat1150 would be greatly apreciated. Thanks.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Here is some info on how much I have into it.
u-joint $50
Bearing $20
Bushing $5
Chromoly $ 5
Steering post $60
Fasteners $10
So right at $150 without considering my time.
About $90 with using stock post.
I would think that $220 would be a great price. But would need to sell 100 to make it worth doing. Laser cut the Top plate and build a jig for the vertical post.
Either way would be awesome for money but I do not have a shop of my own and rules upon using the shop at work are pretty stritcht about not building stuff to sell.
But I don't mind sharing what I have done.
Moving steering back.
Is there any chance the steering post could come up through the cap on top that the steering post is mounted to so that it is similar to the M8 location?
I agree with homer in that I think the steering needs to be moved back not forward. I also realize that there is very little room to do this on the turbo charged 1100. I just think that there is some advange to having more rider weight closer to the rear of the sled.
Is there any chance the steering post could come up through the cap on top that the steering post is mounted to so that it is similar to the M8 location?
I agree with homer in that I think the steering needs to be moved back not forward. I also realize that there is very little room to do this on the turbo charged 1100. I just think that there is some advange to having more rider weight closer to the rear of the sled.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Yeah, a double joint u joint would probally do it. But I do not know where the strength for the post would come from. If you look at the pic of how cat did it they came back to just ahead of where the bars would be if you ran the riser in line with the post. I am positive that it is at least 2 inches forward from that point. I think it is likely that they did not intend for the riser to be inline with the post for the balance point as I found that to feel weird and uncomfortable. Mine may be a bit to far forward but I don't think it is going to matter to much as I fixed what I did not like and that was the swing of the bars even when the riser was inline. The darn bars were hitting my knee.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
I just went back and looked at the kit from cat. To confirm that I was not just talking sh**. They do have the bars at least 2 inches forward from where they would be with stock config with the riser inline with the post. Pretty sure they know the balance point.
Also I think alot of the cat guys are feeling the way they are because they are trying to make the new sled into the old m series instead of learning how to ride the new PC series.
Also I think alot of the cat guys are feeling the way they are because they are trying to make the new sled into the old m series instead of learning how to ride the new PC series.
M1100 Vertical Steering
Here are a few pics. Rode yesterday with this and the Geo mod now the sled handles. Bars are same location as an M8 with vertical steering. With the heavy motor you need to keep your weight back not farther forward,try it it works.
Here are a few pics. Rode yesterday with this and the Geo mod now the sled handles. Bars are same location as an M8 with vertical steering. With the heavy motor you need to keep your weight back not farther forward,try it it works.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
JP, Looks good! Alot like what I am doing. Do you happen to know the angle of the post now? I like how you braced yours to the side. I am going to try to brace to the top bolt in the spar.
What Mod from GEO did you do?
Turbo 583.
I found the best thing is to remove the cast piece and the steering post out of the sled. Now when you do this flip the casting over and look at the strenghting ribs and use an end mill and create two flat spots for the two forward top nuts and bolts. The two rear are just in front of the plugged round hole.Ok the next thing that i believe is important is from the front two bolts the ones holding the block you milled first I used 3/8 steel tubing welded nuts to them and made a v back to the rear where there is a factory hole this will relieve the stress on the thin flat area you are bolting thru. Oh almost forgot the angle is 19 deg. I rode this with and without the Geo mod and i would highly recommend as it will completly change the handling. I had my doubts about this being a fairly good tree and climbing sled that has changed our group consists of skilled tree and back country riders and it is every bit as good as my old M1000 which was lightened and modded but dont kid yourself it will never throw around like an M7.
I found the best thing is to remove the cast piece and the steering post out of the sled. Now when you do this flip the casting over and look at the strenghting ribs and use an end mill and create two flat spots for the two forward top nuts and bolts. The two rear are just in front of the plugged round hole.Ok the next thing that i believe is important is from the front two bolts the ones holding the block you milled first I used 3/8 steel tubing welded nuts to them and made a v back to the rear where there is a factory hole this will relieve the stress on the thin flat area you are bolting thru. Oh almost forgot the angle is 19 deg. I rode this with and without the Geo mod and i would highly recommend as it will completly change the handling. I had my doubts about this being a fairly good tree and climbing sled that has changed our group consists of skilled tree and back country riders and it is every bit as good as my old M1000 which was lightened and modded but dont kid yourself it will never throw around like an M7.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
I would maybe. . . . I would build a jig so I could build more. I really like Jp's. As it is more simple. Tube with bush in each end tig welded with a top plate like mine and a bottom plate that bolts flat.
I didn't really want to get into building these but if I could get 10 people who wanted one I would build a jig and build some. Also don't want to step on jp's feet as I would be going with a design more like his, but with aluminum.
I also like JP47,s design but couldnt the top spar cap be drilled or milled to have the tube and bushing welded or bolted into it in some way to get the post to come up through the top spar cap to get the post as far back and as verticle as possible for the best of both worlds. Wouldnt this be possible with a double u joint or cv joint.
Maybe I am missing something here?
I really like all the ideas here, you guys are doing a great job!!!!!!!!!!!
I would like to buy someones kit that will get the bars as close to 2012 M8 telescopic bar possition as possible.
Maybe I am missing something here?
I really like all the ideas here, you guys are doing a great job!!!!!!!!!!!
I would like to buy someones kit that will get the bars as close to 2012 M8 telescopic bar possition as possible.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Nope. . . For one there would be no strength. For two the throttle body is smack dab in the way. if they would reengineer the throttle body and plenum for next year they will ahead and then figure out a way to brace the post to the tunnel like the old m's
I am not arguing or disagreeing with you turbo583. I like what you and the other guys are doing, it will work very well. It just looks like to me that the post could come up through the front or middle of the spar cap, maybe it isnt strong enough for this, maybe it will take more room than I can imagine.
I am not a machist or an engineer and have no access to the machines or tools to do what I think would work.
Maybe I cant explaining it good enough!
Do you think the spar cap is not strong enough to have a hole drilled or milled for a spot to put the tube and bushing in?
Couldnt the spar cap be reinforced or braced?
It looks like it is very thick
Maybe it would take casting a new spar cap, that might get expensive fast.
Any way you guys are doing good work on this issue and I was just putting my ideas out there to try and find out what will work and what wont.
Thanks for all the info and ideas!!!!!!!!
I am not a machist or an engineer and have no access to the machines or tools to do what I think would work.
Maybe I cant explaining it good enough!
Do you think the spar cap is not strong enough to have a hole drilled or milled for a spot to put the tube and bushing in?
Couldnt the spar cap be reinforced or braced?
It looks like it is very thick
Maybe it would take casting a new spar cap, that might get expensive fast.
Any way you guys are doing good work on this issue and I was just putting my ideas out there to try and find out what will work and what wont.
Thanks for all the info and ideas!!!!!!!!
Turbo 583,
Dont worry about me mine is done and i would like other people to enjoy the differance this makes. One thing i noticed on yours is the post is not truely vertical left to right that does make a differance as well. Also if you look at mine the riser leans back this puts in very close to the factory M8 vertical post location and still rotates flat it will just move toward you slightly something another person has fiqured out to be benificial. The Geo mod i have been refering to is his steering mod.The steering is terrible try riding a motorcycle where the bars turn twice as far as the wheel and see how that treats ya enough said.
Dont worry about me mine is done and i would like other people to enjoy the differance this makes. One thing i noticed on yours is the post is not truely vertical left to right that does make a differance as well. Also if you look at mine the riser leans back this puts in very close to the factory M8 vertical post location and still rotates flat it will just move toward you slightly something another person has fiqured out to be benificial. The Geo mod i have been refering to is his steering mod.The steering is terrible try riding a motorcycle where the bars turn twice as far as the wheel and see how that treats ya enough said.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
JP47,
Please explain further. I don't know what you mean about left to right. . . .
I get what you mean about the riser being tilted back. Mine will be back slightly as well. The best part about that is that is adjustable.
In the picture it looked like you mounted it to the factory holes in the front so it looked as if the post may have been at that angle still although i guess you could have bored the hole at an angle as well. Another words the tubing for the bars are 90deg to the post.
