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Turned oiler up whoop whoop

The only time the oil pump is wide open is if the cable (on the IQs) or the rod (on the Pro chassis) breaks or disconnects somehow. The pump arm will open all the way to prevent oil starvation and you will use a huge amount of oil.

The orifice/needle that controls the oil flow is similar to a needle/jet set up in a carb. The needle is tapered so the more you pull the needle out the more fluid flows through it.

So, if you think it's all crap, don't do it. No need for bashing those that think the 70 - 80:1 or so ration is not enough to adequately lube the crank bearings and everything else.
 
Is anybody calculating the ratios on these things or turning up the pump just because?
I just picked up a low mile 13. I have not ridden it yet but judging by the large amount of smoke every time I start it, it's getting a fair amount of oil!



Turts, typing on Tapatalk

Common misconception, smoke is a sign of cold running, not excessive oil.

3 turns is a good place to start, I mixxed my rm250 race bike and 08 xp at 25:1, with proper tuning it smokes ZERO once warm and makes better power than the oil injection could make.
 
The only time the oil pump is wide open is if the cable (on the IQs) or the rod (on the Pro chassis) breaks or disconnects somehow. The pump arm will open all the way to prevent oil starvation and you will use a huge amount of oil.

The orifice/needle that controls the oil flow is similar to a needle/jet set up in a carb. The needle is tapered so the more you pull the needle out the more fluid flows through it.

So, if you think it's all crap, don't do it. No need for bashing those that think the 70 - 80:1 or so ration is not enough to adequately lube the crank bearings and everything else.

OK I was confused. I saw the oil pump 180° away from the adjustment screw and assumed there was a cable linking the two.

Sooo there's a fixed rod linking the pump to the throttle body! And adjusting the set screw advances the rod position (independently from the throttle cable)... opening the pump valve that much more throughout the full range of throttle pull... correct?!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
OK I was confused. I saw the oil pump 180° away from the adjustment screw and assumed there was a cable linking the two.

Sooo there's a fixed rod linking the pump to the throttle body! And adjusting the set screw advances the rod position (independently from the throttle cable)... opening the pump valve that much more throughout the full range of throttle pull... correct?!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Thats the way i understand it. What i do know for a fact, is i turned up my pump output, and on the next ride (very deep day) i used about twice as much oil when compared to stock setting on a very deep day. Soooooooo i like it.
 
Here's some links to previous oil ratio threads (funny how the search feature works for this).

An image of the Pro oil pump:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3097418&postcount=17


And the main thread on oil ratio and pump adjustment for a year or two ago:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275294&highlight=oil+pump

And a specific post from FTX Motorsports (also Union Bay Racing Engines):

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2775759&postcount=17



I highly suggest reading both threads as everything that's on this thread has been hashed out. Of course there will those that disagree, but hey that's their prerogative.
 
Here's some links to previous oil ratio threads (funny how the search feature works for this).

An image of the Pro oil pump:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3097418&postcount=17


And the main thread on oil ratio and pump adjustment for a year or two ago:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275294&highlight=oil+pump

And a specific post from FTX Motorsports (also Union Bay Racing Engines):

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2775759&postcount=17



I highly suggest reading both threads as everything that's on this thread has been hashed out. Of course there will those that disagree, but hey that's their prerogative.


Great links.
 
Ratio Discrepancy

The part I find interesting is that my '11 Pro 800, with the injection pump calibration marks lined up perfectly from the factory, had to be well over to 80:1(averaged over several tanks of fuel). After adjusting the screw until the threads were almost flush with the top of the lock nut, I averaged my oil consumption over the course of 400-ish miles & came up with slightly over 50:1.

I have no idea how people are able to come up with numbers as high as 40:1 & all the way up to 32:1 on their machines after re-adjusting their pump? Are these average numbers over the course of many tanks of fuel or is this after one days riding in neck deep powder? Is this purely because they are riding with the throttle closer to bar throughout the day than I am?
 
I stand corrected. Thanks for the info guys. The links were very helpful and I've already got the oil turned up. Bring on the snow!
 
Here's some links to previous oil ratio threads (funny how the search feature works for this).

An image of the Pro oil pump:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3097418&postcount=17


And the main thread on oil ratio and pump adjustment for a year or two ago:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275294&highlight=oil+pump

And a specific post from FTX Motorsports (also Union Bay Racing Engines):

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2775759&postcount=17



I highly suggest reading both threads as everything that's on this thread has been hashed out. Of course there will those that disagree, but hey that's their prerogative.

Great links for sure. Hopefully some folks will read them and learn something about the benefits of oil in a 2 stroke motor. :face-icon-small-coo
 
Chances are 98% of the sleds out there have never been adjusted and are running stock settings, so chances are the factory setting is just fine, but hard to argue against more oil being better, human nature is to think more is better.
 
Chances are 98% of the sleds out there have never been adjusted and are running stock settings, so chances are the factory setting is just fine, but hard to argue against more oil being better, human nature is to think more is better.

Wrong, left to their own devices Polaris motors break constantly. Getting the Oiler turned up to an acceptable ratio (Not 80:1) is a huge step in the right direction.

Funny thing about my own personal experience with a 25:1 oil ratio though, my M7 was at 25:1 from the factory and as I adjusted it up to 40:1 one turn at a time, every time it increased in power. That much oil was bogging the crap out of the motor. Ran a lot more crisp at 40:1 and still on the original pistons in that sled. There definitely is a happy medium in there somewhere...from experience I like 40:1-50:1
 
The m7 was over rich on the fuel map. The extra oil prolly pushed it over the line. Leaning out the oil no doubt helped. I used PC5 to get the fuel map where it should be and ran 32:1 oil and she loved it. Maybe the twin pipes and porting had something to do with it?
 
Oily

The old 900 Poo's ran 30:1 from the factory with really no way to set it less.

Still alot of them kicking around actually.

All my 600 HO 's (685)s I run 35:1.
 
Is removal of primary and secondary clutches really required to adjust the oil pump? I haven't peaked under the hood on my new ride yet but will later this week to turn up the pump.

Thanks!
Drew
 
Is removal of primary and secondary clutches really required to adjust the oil pump? I haven't peaked under the hood on my new ride yet but will later this week to turn up the pump.

Thanks!
Drew

Primary no
Secondary not really but helps




Anyone have any tips for getting to the bleeder bolt on the pump??

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
Is anybody calculating the ratios on these things or turning up the pump just because?
I just picked up a low mile 13. I have not ridden it yet but judging by the large amount of smoke every time I start it, it's getting a fair amount of oil!



Turts, typing on Tapatalk

My 2013 also smokes like a pig, much more than my 2012, see photo.

How did this sled pass EPA testing? I have no idea.

sled.jpg
 
2 strokes smoke, don't worry about it.

I know a 300 KTM can get by at 50:1 to 100:1 but those bike are idling around the woods all day, I had one.

A trials bike runs 100:1 because they also idle around all day too.


A 125 motocross bike runs 25:1 because they are pinned all day like 800 in deep snow.

Oil makes power in a properly jetted motor, not so much in the overly rich M7, I had one of those too. I have seen the dyno runs that prove it.

I run whatever oil I have, I have never seen a difference as long as there is enough of it. I don't get why people think it is so complicated.

OIL WON'T HURT A THING BUT IT CAN HELP AND IT IS CHEAP.
 
Just turned my Pro's oiler up three turns. I'm curious to check where my ball park ratio is at and how it is going to run.:face-icon-small-ton
 
Why would you change the oil pump settings unless they were out of spec?

50:1 has been widely accepted for ever.. Even on race engines. Simply measure your oil usage compared to fuel usage.

I would increase oil for better ring seal, better bearing life, better piston life etc. etc. Why do people change fuel flow, timing, compression and pipes etc. if they are in spec? Because the factories don't sell engines that are perfect in every way for every situation!

50:1 has been accepted forever on race engines? That is simply not true, 32:1 is the norm for race engines, that is fact. Read a snocross owners manual!
 
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