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Turned oiler up whoop whoop

Wrong.. 40:1 is even too much. 32:1 is drowning it. I'll bet you have oil spewing out your exhaust donut.

I've owned every 800 twin Polaris has made since 2000. Even with nitrous 50:1 still works fine. If you are between 40:1 and 50:1 injector mix ratio, it is close enough.
 
Next fuel fill up do the quick math to check your oil injection rate.

gallons of gas x 128 / 50 = ounces of oil needed

12 gallons of gas = 1536 ounces
1536/50 = 30.72 ounces of oil.

Assumption
50:1 mix rate.

Simply measure how much oil you are putting in the oil tank and compare figures.

40:1 could be calculated the same way, and is a very liberal mix ratio.
 
Wrong.. 40:1 is even too much. 32:1 is drowning it. I'll bet you have oil spewing out your exhaust donut.

I've owned every 800 twin Polaris has made since 2000. Even with nitrous 50:1 still works fine. If you are between 40:1 and 50:1 injector mix ratio, it is close enough.

50:1 works sure, but its not what it best for the motor. More oil means

  • better ring seal
  • slower wear
  • more power
  • cooler running
  • more consistent running
  • cylinder last longer
  • pistons last longer
  • rings last longer.


List goes on and on, I ran 25:1 on my xp carb, it never ran better, Racing Intermediate class on my cr and rm 250, again 25:1 jetted to perfection. crisp snappy no spooge.


If you understand how the motor works, spooge is a byproduct of the engine running to cold. A common idea is excess smoke and spooge is to much oil. It is a engine on the cold side of ideal AFR.



If the sled is tuned properly, carb or efi and runs at the right temp/afr you could go as rich as 15:1 and it would make fantastic power and run clean.
 
50:1 works sure, but its not what it best for the motor. More oil means

  • better ring seal
  • slower wear
  • more power
  • cooler running
  • more consistent running
  • cylinder last longer
  • pistons last longer
  • rings last longer.


List goes on and on, I ran 25:1 on my xp carb, it never ran better, Racing Intermediate class on my cr and rm 250, again 25:1 jetted to perfection. crisp snappy no spooge.


If you understand how the motor works, spooge is a byproduct of the engine running to cold. A common idea is excess smoke and spooge is to much oil. It is a engine on the cold side of ideal AFR.



If the sled is tuned properly, carb or efi and runs at the right temp/afr you could go as rich as 15:1 and it would make fantastic power and run clean.

So much bad information on this site wow!

How do you get more power? Your BTU input from gasoline has not changed. You will not get more power unless you add more fuel and can efficiently burn the fuel to make power.

I'm not going to argue though. CRANK UP THE OILER, GIT-R-DONE... Why not just get rid of the gas all together and run it hotter than hell! Yeah..
 
Next fuel fill up do the quick math to check your oil injection rate.

gallons of gas x 128 / 50 = ounces of oil needed

12 gallons of gas = 1536 ounces
1536/50 = 30.72 ounces of oil.

Assumption
50:1 mix rate.

Simply measure how much oil you are putting in the oil tank and compare figures.

40:1 could be calculated the same way, and is a very liberal mix ratio.

Time to steal a measure cup from the kitchen-that'll make the woman happy haha
 
So much bad information on this site wow!

How do you get more power? Your BTU input from gasoline has not changed. You will not get more power unless you add more fuel and can efficiently burn the fuel to make power.

I'm not going to argue though. CRANK UP THE OILER, GIT-R-DONE... Why not just get rid of the gas all together and run it hotter than hell! Yeah..

DTR did dyno runs to prove his theory. They had to hit 18:1 before it showed negatively on power. Couldn't disagree with you more but yeah there's a lot of bad info out there, lol.
 
DTR did dyno runs to prove his theory. They had to hit 18:1 before it showed negatively on power. Couldn't disagree with you more but yeah there's a lot of bad info out there, lol.
amen.

I premix my toys and shoot for around 32:1 if not more. runs good, oils cheap. makes good power and the motors always look amazing when torn down.

i want to try and mixing one in the 20:1 range and see how she acts.
 
amen.

I premix my toys and shoot for around 32:1 if not more. runs good, oils cheap. makes good power and the motors always look amazing when torn down.

i want to try and mixing one in the 20:1 range and see how she acts.

Back in the late 70's and 80's, that's the ratio we pre-mixed, 20:1 (a qt to 5 gals).
 
amen.

I premix my toys and shoot for around 32:1 if not more. runs good, oils cheap. makes good power and the motors always look amazing when torn down.

i want to try and mixing one in the 20:1 range and see how she acts.

Motor will love you. Plugs will oil foul on the CFI at some point.

In the 70s, poo racing did the same test on premix, found performance kept increasing until oil was more than 20:1. If the OEM's could, they would run big oil to keep warranty claims lower, all marketing crap off the table. Marketing and the EPA are the culprits here.
 
My 11 was +55:1 as delivered. Turned it up to ~35:1, depending on how I ride. Yes, some people do check it, not hard to do with a marker and a measuring cup. Moving metal parts like lubrication.

Smoke at start up is not a good indicator of adequate oil use, it's from a cold chamber and pipe.

I would really be interested in knowing how you're getting these ratios. 55:1 as delivered and turned it up to 35:1?? How do you know/verify this? I have seen many make the claims about knowing what ratio they're at and what ratio they adjust to but can't understand how they're determining/verifying these ratios.

Thanks, John
 
I would really be interested in knowing how you're getting these ratios. 55:1 as delivered and turned it up to 35:1?? How do you know/verify this? I have seen many make the claims about knowing what ratio they're at and what ratio they adjust to but can't understand how they're determining/verifying these ratios.

Thanks, John

the funny thing is isnt the oiler variable? soooo unless you did the same ride as in wide open same amount of time mid throttle same amount of time and measure in the same way stock to turned in then you can get and exact measurement but if your wide open all one day in fresh and half throttle one day cause theres a base then for sure your burning more cause its a different ratio wide open than mid. Regardless or not, turning in the oiler is using more oil. 3 turns seems to be the magic number, ive heard too far in and the barrel may not oil at wide open? but has not been confirmed.
 
I would really be interested in knowing how you're getting these ratios. 55:1 as delivered and turned it up to 35:1?? How do you know/verify this? I have seen many make the claims about knowing what ratio they're at and what ratio they adjust to but can't understand how they're determining/verifying these ratios.

Thanks, John

Hmm. I'll bite one more time.

So, I measure it. Recurringly before and after changing the pump setting. First, gas to full at neck, oil full to a mark you make on the tank. Go ride. A lot.

End of day, add oil in ounces with a measure cup, to a mark on the oil tank, the gas in gals to full. Be precise (a culinary secret). Gal gas to full x 128 divided by oil ounces used. Do this every ride for a few weeks. Change your setting. Started doing this decades ago when not deleting the oil pump on mod sleds while making big jetting changes. I am an old guy but not senile, yet, and I remember how mains, pilots, needles, needle jets, air and fuel screws work and impact oil ratios.

Yep, it varies based on the day, I use more oil on deep, pinned days than harder snow days. So what, this is not quantum mechanics. It took + five turns on the oil adjust screw, screw flush with locknut, lever past the scribe on the pump. On the 11 pro, the first giveaway was using less oil than an etec I also own on the same day and conditions. It was obvious something was up, and it wasn't magic. Poo really leaned the oil out on these sleds to get EPA compliance with semi-direct injection. Just sharing what I've found. It's up to you, your sled, your responsibility if you screw it up, do what you like.
 
Hmm. I'll bite one more time.

So, I measure it. Recurringly before and after changing the pump setting. First, gas to full at neck, oil full to a mark you make on the tank. Go ride. A lot.

End of day, add oil in ounces with a measure cup, to a mark on the oil tank, the gas in gals to full. Be precise (a culinary secret). Gal gas to full x 128 divided by oil ounces used. Do this every ride for a few weeks. Change your setting. Started doing this decades ago when not deleting the oil pump on mod sleds while making big jetting changes. I am an old guy but not senile, yet, and I remember how mains, pilots, needles, needle jets, air and fuel screws work and impact oil ratios.

Yep, it varies based on the day, I use more oil on deep, pinned days than harder snow days. So what, this is not quantum mechanics. It took + five turns on the oil adjust screw, screw flush with locknut, lever past the scribe on the pump. On the 11 pro, the first giveaway was using less oil than an etec I also own on the same day and conditions. It was obvious something was up, and it wasn't magic. Poo really leaned the oil out on these sleds to get EPA compliance with semi-direct injection. Just sharing what I've found. It's up to you, your sled, your responsibility if you screw it up, do what you like.

so flush with nut still inst far enough that you would actually close the barrel at WOT. (if it even does this)
 
Two strokes have always run on 40/50:1 since I can remember....and now you guys are talking ridiculously rich ratios....I don't get it? Why would anyone want to run that much oil through a motor?

Has it been proven a motor will last longer at 25:1 vs 50:1? I read the comment about the DTR dyno runs.....I don't care what the dyno says...I have had two sleds set at 32:1ish and both would stumble and load up/smoke on the low end. Maybe top end HP would not be affected but I know running quality was, at least on my two sleds ('06 Crossfire 700 and 2000 XC7).

Not trying to 'poke the bear'....I just don't get it. Seems like such a waste of money for no benefit.
 
50:1 works sure, but its not what it best for the motor. More oil means

  • better ring seal
  • slower wear
  • more power
  • cooler running
  • more consistent running
  • cylinder last longer
  • pistons last longer
  • rings

    List goes on and on, I ran 25:1 on my xp carb, it never ran better, Racing Intermediate class on my cr and rm 250, again 25:1 jetted to perfection. crisp snappy no spooge.


    If you understand how the motor works, spooge is a byproduct of the engine running to cold. A common idea is excess smoke and spooge is to much oil. It is a engine on the cold side of ideal AFR.



    If the sled is tuned properly, carb or efi and runs at the right temp/afr you could go as rich as 15:1 and it would make fantastic power and run clean.


  • Dude I don't know where you get your info from but 25:1 on a ditbike or any two stroke is way to rich. You can only pump so much oil in before the engine will not burn it. I run 50:1 on my ktm 300 and it loves it, however, go to 32:1 and they start spooging badly. I have run 100:1 amsoil in premix sleds with zero issues. With these new synthetic oils 50:1 is fine. Not sure why your sled ran better on 25:1, I guess it likes to run on oil better than gas. By the way it does not matter how you jet it the oil/gas ratio will not change. Also on a two stroke the oil does the lubricating and the gas does the cooling. To much oil will actually cause it to run hotter that's why there needs to be a good balance.
 
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Sorry, but I'm callin' foul on this whole discussion. We need an expert to tell us what turning the screw up really does. As far as I know, that screw just sets your oil at idle/slow speeds. Once you get on the throttle, the oiler is wide open, is it not? Seems you guys are just burning extra oil when idling, if you turn past the notch. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Sorry, but I'm callin' foul on this whole discussion. We need an expert to tell us what turning the screw up really does. As far as I know, that screw just sets your oil at idle/slow speeds. Once you get on the throttle, the oiler is wide open, is it not? Seems you guys are just burning extra oil when idling, if you turn past the notch. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Ya know I've been wondering the same. On my 06 900 the trick was to actually advance the actuator arm on the pump and re-adjust the cable tension. This opened the oiler more throughout the entire throttle range.

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