I just made a trade for a e tech that my buddy raced last year and hope to have all the kinks worked out by this race season. The sled is a strong runner on full boost but we are dealing with exauhst valve trouble on the bottom end. I fill that this e tech is going to be great real soon. This kit is built by boondocker for those interested.
Turboing E-Tec
- Thread starter MARCUSO
- Start date
Im doing some things to this sled that I believe will fix the problem as well as Rocky at boondocker said that he has some ideas. The exhaust valves are having a hard time making the return trip back to shut after the sled boost up.
I believe that the prblem Im having is they dont shut correctly they seem to be not returning after you let off the throttle. Which seems to affect the bottom end.
i tested the etec turbo on sunday
i could not really get it tuned perfect as it was very icy and hard and i could not hang on and look at guages etc also the sled would overheat as the scratchers could not get anything off the ground
according to the koso guage the etec fuels to about 14 to 1 full throttle no boost and at part throttle stupid lean up to 20 to 1
then i used my aux injectors to go down to 13
i also have a fuel pressure guage and have only the stock pump and so far no drop on the fuel pressure
by the way i checked the specs on the pump as i thought it would be weak and it is what skidoo calls a jet pump yet it looks like something out of a radio control car
i hope it keeps up as it keeps plumbing and demands on electrical system easier
also this pump is 440 dollars by the way
there is an inconsistent bog which i know is related to the temp sensor location as i have tested this position in natrual aspirated form with various cans
these motors are so sensitive to temp and need to see a change
i have tried putting a rheostat in place at various levels matching the manual and it never is as good as with the temp sensor in place
i have place the air temp sensor on the intake side of turbo so it does not show stupid hot when boosting temps go up
no check engine codes yet
does anyone know if they flash anything for timing reductions
i know it wil tell you if there is knock or if raves are in a bad position
the aero had the orange spring was making about 8 pounds boost
i had 110 octane in there just to be safe
i would like to try the egts and wonder if it is ok to put them directly in the y pipe so i can compare cylinder to cylinder
anyone know what stock readings and turbo readings are on the 800 turbo s or the sdi turbos? in this location?
anyway need some powder where i can load it and go slow and see the guages and creep up on the mixture
i hope it works !
i could not really get it tuned perfect as it was very icy and hard and i could not hang on and look at guages etc also the sled would overheat as the scratchers could not get anything off the ground
according to the koso guage the etec fuels to about 14 to 1 full throttle no boost and at part throttle stupid lean up to 20 to 1
then i used my aux injectors to go down to 13
i also have a fuel pressure guage and have only the stock pump and so far no drop on the fuel pressure
by the way i checked the specs on the pump as i thought it would be weak and it is what skidoo calls a jet pump yet it looks like something out of a radio control car
i hope it keeps up as it keeps plumbing and demands on electrical system easier
also this pump is 440 dollars by the way
there is an inconsistent bog which i know is related to the temp sensor location as i have tested this position in natrual aspirated form with various cans
these motors are so sensitive to temp and need to see a change
i have tried putting a rheostat in place at various levels matching the manual and it never is as good as with the temp sensor in place
i have place the air temp sensor on the intake side of turbo so it does not show stupid hot when boosting temps go up
no check engine codes yet
does anyone know if they flash anything for timing reductions
i know it wil tell you if there is knock or if raves are in a bad position
the aero had the orange spring was making about 8 pounds boost
i had 110 octane in there just to be safe
i would like to try the egts and wonder if it is ok to put them directly in the y pipe so i can compare cylinder to cylinder
anyone know what stock readings and turbo readings are on the 800 turbo s or the sdi turbos? in this location?
anyway need some powder where i can load it and go slow and see the guages and creep up on the mixture
i hope it works !
Sounds like uve got a good start!
We like to see EGT readings around 1200 WOT. Safe and builds good power.
Keep us posted!
Jake
We like to see EGT readings around 1200 WOT. Safe and builds good power.
Keep us posted!
Jake
DI Bomb
Hi guys, I don`t have Etec sled experience but i have about 3000 hours running Direct injected outboards in the last 4 years and have some good story's to tell.
You will have to cool the bottom end with fuel if you are going to boost any DI 2 stroke. The Di system is only a big fuel saver at lower outputs, any time you run WOT the BSFCs start to go into carbed 2 stroke territory. We have found that with the outboards you can not run them at WOT all day like you could with carbs, the first thing that happens is the upper rod bearing starts to cut into the piston pin and then as it gets looser you get massive deto that blows the upper ring lands off. Based on the discoloration on the rods and bearings this is a heat problem. The other thing that will cause problems under boost is the wacky piston shape that has sharp edges that are hard to cool.
I am not trying to say i can`t be done but it is not my idea of a worthwhile project, if you are going to have to build your own ECU and run injectors in the case why not just start with a carb engine and build on it and forget the DI set up?
Hi guys, I don`t have Etec sled experience but i have about 3000 hours running Direct injected outboards in the last 4 years and have some good story's to tell.
You will have to cool the bottom end with fuel if you are going to boost any DI 2 stroke. The Di system is only a big fuel saver at lower outputs, any time you run WOT the BSFCs start to go into carbed 2 stroke territory. We have found that with the outboards you can not run them at WOT all day like you could with carbs, the first thing that happens is the upper rod bearing starts to cut into the piston pin and then as it gets looser you get massive deto that blows the upper ring lands off. Based on the discoloration on the rods and bearings this is a heat problem. The other thing that will cause problems under boost is the wacky piston shape that has sharp edges that are hard to cool.
I am not trying to say i can`t be done but it is not my idea of a worthwhile project, if you are going to have to build your own ECU and run injectors in the case why not just start with a carb engine and build on it and forget the DI set up?
i only have one hour on it right now because out west here we have had no snow for two weeks and its been hard as hell
but its snowing right now and im going out in the morning
so far no fault codes but really need some powder where i can run it wot and see the guages to tune
do you think the fuel in the crankcase with no extra oil will adds any lubrication?
you cant really add any oil to the fuel itself because 80 percent of it goes directly into head so no benefit
but its snowing right now and im going out in the morning
so far no fault codes but really need some powder where i can run it wot and see the guages to tune
do you think the fuel in the crankcase with no extra oil will adds any lubrication?
you cant really add any oil to the fuel itself because 80 percent of it goes directly into head so no benefit
The production sleds in the near future will have this motor and fueling system. Turboing a carb'd motor has its fueling issues, that is why a fuel injected system is ideal (mapping etc.) BRP right now is the last manufacturer to have the carburated system in their production line. History has shown with this manufacturer, a new motor will be introduced next year, with a new chassis to follow the year after.
Quote:
The production sleds in the near future will have this motor and fueling system. Turboing a carb'd motor has its fueling issues, that is why a fuel injected system is ideal (mapping etc.) BRP right now is the last manufacturer to have the carburated system in their production line. History has shown with this manufacturer, a new motor will be introduced next year, with a new chassis to follow the year after.
12-13-2009 09:16 AM
I`m sorry i think you misunderstood me, I meant that since you will need to have some fuel going through the case to keep things cool that maybe you should start with building your own injection system and it would be easer and cheaper to start from scratch rather than trying to piggyback on the etec system.
Blowing hot air into a bottom end without fuel to cool it is not a good idea in my opinion. You can use a intercooler but the air will still be hotter.
The production sleds in the near future will have this motor and fueling system. Turboing a carb'd motor has its fueling issues, that is why a fuel injected system is ideal (mapping etc.) BRP right now is the last manufacturer to have the carburated system in their production line. History has shown with this manufacturer, a new motor will be introduced next year, with a new chassis to follow the year after.
12-13-2009 09:16 AM
I`m sorry i think you misunderstood me, I meant that since you will need to have some fuel going through the case to keep things cool that maybe you should start with building your own injection system and it would be easer and cheaper to start from scratch rather than trying to piggyback on the etec system.
Blowing hot air into a bottom end without fuel to cool it is not a good idea in my opinion. You can use a intercooler but the air will still be hotter.
ya jasons turbo gave him more of a headache than the thing was worth.. it wouldn't run half the time and no one could figure it out..
injectors in boost box
How's your boondocker kit doing so far?
It seams to run good so fare just need to figure out some throttle position sensor issues.
Sled Race 111 u dont evan race and no nothing so go back to poring cement that you do know.
I think the only way you are going to get around this to lean problem is to do a piggy back system that has the ability to be controlled by an o2 sensor.
