Turbo Clutching Update

[noxis]

where to have the weight

I was wondering where to have the weight in a adjustable? 13 pro rmk 155 with 12 silber kit and boost- it box Like the clutching but slow on the bottom. I have rooster weights set at 76 with the heel set heavy and the tip light. Rideing 8000-10000 pulled 75.5 last trip . Team pink spring and whatever helix came with silbers kit. I broke the primary spring last trip and dident catch it till i got home. Just kept turning boost up to pull rpms started around 10psi

 

[die hard poo]

I was wondering where to have the weight in a adjustable? 13 pro rmk 155 with 12 silber kit and boost- it box Like the clutching but slow on the bottom. I have rooster weights set at 76 with the heel set heavy and the tip light. Rideing 8000-10000 pulled 75.5 last trip . Team pink spring and whatever helix came with silbers kit. I broke the primary spring last trip and dident catch it till i got home. Just kept turning boost up to pull rpms started around 10psi

Like I stated in the above post, put as much weight at the TIP as possible. This will make your bottom end better and keep your rpm at target at peak hp. The less weight you put at the heel, the less you load the motor off engagement, which will INCREASE your rpm engagement. It will get you closer to your power band and get closer to boost. The struggle for me while tuning a turbo is to realize you have to clutch for both a stock power output at engagement and turbo power at mid and peak rpm.

I also purchased an EPI-11 Pink spring which is a 185/300 spring. This will give you a higher engagement and allow you to run a couple grams less on top and still maintain your 8200 rpm target.

 

[noxis]

thanks

Thanks i wanted to ask the question differently but my phone was going dead and it was late. Thanks fot the explanation. I will move some weight around today and post how it works.

 

[2XM3]

Yup die hards totally correct, turbo, you want all the weight in the tip, just the opposite of a normally asperated sled.

 

[dmj1]

springs

Also keep in mind these primary and secondary springs don't hold there values forever.. they weaken over time .. I as a general rule change them out every year depending on how much you ride.

 

[hobbes]

My specs so far:

8000+ ft @ 11-12 lbs 2011 Silber Pro Cat PC 162 track and 250lb rider

76 grams loaded evenly across the Roosters
Pink Team Primary

42/46 Helix and I'm running whatever primary spring Silber sent with the kit which I think is a 180/280 I believe.

It pulls 8200 out of the hole and drops into about 8000-8100 on a climb. I'd like to get a few more rpms so am thinking of dropping some weight out of the heel. I'm also going to a Tied clutch. Here is the setup I'm going to try next trip, I'll report back.

74 grams loaded tip heavy
Pink Team Primary
Team Tied
57/59 straight helix (going to try the 57 first)
160/280 Team Sec Spring

I know I'm "changing too many things at once" lol, but this is a tried and true setup by a good tuner I know.

 

[TURBOINC]

8000-11000 Ft
Primary- almond red 165-310
79 grams weight

Secondary- 48 straight
black lime green 180-300

8lbs of boost with the vipec and tial external pulling 8250 and my arms off

 

[philsummers21]

Update. Tried my 175-305 spring. Wow. Thing its so hard off the bottom. Engagement is right around 5000.

Primary temp went up just a tad but fairly cool still. Belt is the hottest part of my clutch setup and isnt that hot.

Going to lower my engagement just a tad go to a 43 gear ratio and call her good. So my final clutch package for 8-11000 ft and 10-12# of boost is

19/43 gearing
7 tooth 163 peak

Primary
74.4 mds turbo weights loaded mid and tip
165-310 with slick washers on each side

Secondary
42-48
Black/orange

 

[sledhappy]

I'm running
MDS wieghts loaded in the front.
Black green spring

Secondary
48 straight
Black lime green.

Runs strong 8200

A plug for Steve at MDS. He has the best customer service around. If i have had questions or needed additional parts he has been so helpful! Recommend MDS all the time. The pull hard!

 

[2XM3]

Now at 13 lbs.....
stock gearing

155/300 speedwerks H5 primary
78.5 gr roosters , all in the tip
40 50 .4 team helix
165/310 secondary with 2 delrins

@ 7500 ft 8250 pretty good on the bottom as well

 

[philsummers21]

What exactly does the different secondary spring accomplish 165-310. right now im running the black/orange 180-280. My setup is pretty good. I like everything except for when i have to hop on the trail. On the trail i can only run a little over half throttle because i hit my rev limiter too easy. Any other condition im at 8200 all day long.

 

[2XM3]

ttt should be a sticky

It just seemed to keep the belt from slipping better, and i'm a big guy 6'6" and 295 lol

 

[jeepin270]

Sticky?

 

[philsummers21]

Heres an update on my setup this year. So far so good.
8-10000 ft 10-12#
19/43 gearing 7 tooth 163
Primary:
MDS turbo weights 74grams
Orange 165/310
Secondary:
straight 48 Helix
Black silver 160-280

 

[jeepin270]

Heres an update on my setup this year. So far so good.
8-10000 ft 10-12#
19/43 gearing 7 tooth 163
Primary:
MDS turbo weights 74grams
Orange 165/310
Secondary:
straight 48 Helix
Black silver 160-280

What part do you think you would change if you were low elevation?

 

[philsummers21]

Honestly I couldn't tell you. Never rode at low elevation. Im guessing you will be running less boost therefore making about the same hp as I do with higher boost at higher elevation. So if anything id probably just change weights

 

[Spaarky]

What part do you think you would change if you were low elevation?

Maybe 4 grams more weight and more helix. If I remember right, that straight 48 flips to a 50. Springs you would have to mess with. I prefer a lower engagement even at higher elevation. We have seem to gotten it to work really well.

Once we hit the 10,000 ft mark or so, that is where I seem to struggle on the bottom a little and need to get it worked out. At a sea level type elevation you don't struggle with lighting the turbo, like at 10,000ft. I would keep the engagement close to stock. That's my personal taste. I like a smooth linear feel, not so much the hard bang.

Like stated it depends on how much boost you are running. I have not spent time messing with it. The very little we ride here, I just try to make sure we don't toast the motor. It feels pretty good, so that is good enough.

 

[sledhead9825]

What about a bigger gearing drop? Running a 3 inch so you cant run to fast. Why not gear it down alot more,less stress on the belt and should give you a crisper bottom end.

 

[DYEMAN]

Here is my set up:
2012 silber kit with boost it fuel controller
7# of boost at 0-3000ft
Current engagement 4200rpm, 8150rpm peak

Clutching:
Team Pink (180/320) primary spring
78g Rooster weights loaded: 2g heel, 5.5g at mid and tip

Orange/black (180/280) Sec spring
42/46/.36 Helix

This seems to be pretty good, but I ordered an EPI pink (185/300)
primary spring to let me run less weight and get my engagement slightly higher. I noticed if you get the engagement too low(below 4000rpm), it lugs the motor too bad and makes it feel very sluggish. I am shooting for 4500rpm engagement to get that snappyness back off engagement like a stock sled. If this spring doesn't allow me to get my engagement higher, I will use the spring washers to increase the engagement some...
Hope this helps! Loving the boost tho!

. Turn boost down the bottom end will come back ? Also a flat or a notched weight might work better than big Spring ! Big springs take on new issues ? Also try stock helix with blk/yellow secondary spring try running a tipped weight , heavy weights tend to tuck under causing Bog ! Then you are chasing fuel curves ect timing ! ???

 

[Hardass]

8000-11000 Ft
Primary- almond red 165-310
79 grams weight

Secondary- 48 straight
black lime green 180-300

8lbs of boost with the vipec and tial external pulling 8250 and my arms off

I don't know for sure but I don't think these guys have the external gate which changes every thing as you know internal and external do not compare