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Turbo Clutching Update

Grabby clutch

Axys with silber pump gas 5 lbs. silber sent clutching kit was almond red with 76 weights and secondary is black white or black yellow. My top rpm is 8250 so it's awesome clutch ingages at 4100 but hits so hard?hits very hard. Also if I hold throttle lightly to barley move it will ingage and disengage over and over. It's bucks like a bull. After I'm up to speed/rpm it's awesome. I can't figure it out? Go to almond blue spring or what? Any ideas ???
 
Axys with silber pump gas 5 lbs. silber sent clutching kit was almond red with 76 weights and secondary is black white or black yellow. My top rpm is 8250 so it's awesome clutch ingages at 4100 but hits so hard?hits very hard. Also if I hold throttle lightly to barley move it will ingage and disengage over and over. It's bucks like a bull. After I'm up to speed/rpm it's awesome. I can't figure it out? Go to almond blue spring or what? Any ideas ???

Give me a ring if you like - I can help 9702190258. Had the same problem.
 
Axys with silber pump gas 5 lbs. silber sent clutching kit was almond red with 76 weights and secondary is black white or black yellow. My top rpm is 8250 so it's awesome clutch ingages at 4100 but hits so hard?hits very hard. Also if I hold throttle lightly to barley move it will ingage and disengage over and over. It's bucks like a bull. After I'm up to speed/rpm it's awesome. I can't figure it out? Go to almond blue spring or what? Any ideas ???

Just so I put it here - its your belt. I'm betting money its glazed like crazy. New belt will fix the problem.

Now the reason its glazing - that's a whole other thing.

First, I've found Arctic Cat belts to work better. Second, check your alignment and everything. Third, there is a good chance your helix is slightly too flat causing belt slippage (and heat).

I'm running a green/pink spring, 48 degree helix (slightly too steep), 10-70 weights, black/lime secondary at 5psi at 8000 feet. Works great less the overly steep helix
 
Turbo Clutching

Have been trying to dial the Polaris turbo clutching since 11' on my first Pro. At first ran the clutching Boondocker sent with the kit and knew first ride that wasn't going to work. So I ordered five custom cut helixes from team to test and tune with.

Tried all of them and the one that gave you optimal upshift, back shift and the best performance all round. Boondocking, technical tree riding and hitting the big schutes. We ride 7k to 11k

Was and still is the 48/42/.33 shiftout Team Helix
Sec/140/260/Higher Boost spring. 140/240/Lower Boost
Primary weight also dictates secondary finish rates
Primary spring finish rates range 330 to 350
We tried a lot of different primary weights (excluding Lightning)
That Tony is using and I'm sure the lightings work well
We used standard Polaris 10 series 70 gram to 72 gram weight
They were good at all throttle position's and made smooth linear power.

We have had four Boondocker turboed Pro's that we rode and tuned from 11' to 15'. Now we are on 2-T3 872's with our custom clutching. And have 3-G4's and another clutching challenge coming up. They key to a good
Running sled is Clutching, Clutching, Clutching.
 
Higher spring rates will hold RPM in return limits upshift. Limiting upshift increases RPM and limits track speed. I am running a 140-220 secondary spring in my turbo with 74.6g weights 165-310 primary and it has long legs. Works boondocking, hill climbing, on the trail. 8-9# boost at 8-10,000'. In my stock Pro I am running a 100-150 secondary spring 59g weights with a 110-290 primary. Same helix in both, 46-32F- 46-34F.

Two questions, one what brand of weights are you running and two where do get the helix from?
 
Two questions, one what brand of weights are you running and two where do get the helix from?

Lightning. You can purchase some from Indy Specialties.

Helix. Rogers Sports in Cody.

If you do this follow it to a T. Do not skip or cut corners.
 
Not sure on all the sizes. 70, ?, 75, 78. He has a bunch of styles and options.

As I said. If you guys use this, you MUST USE IT FULLY, no well I have this or that. Lightning weights require the primary to be shimmed. You have to drill each hole the same. Clutches and belt clean! The list goes on. If you follow it, it is well worth it.
 
Nobody knows anything about which exhaust valve springs to run in a turbo?
I'm assuming that's what sparrky was referring to on page 4.
 
Higher spring rates will hold RPM in return limits upshift. Limiting upshift increases RPM and limits track speed. I am running a 140-220 secondary spring in my turbo with 74.6g weights 165-310 primary and it has long legs. Works boondocking, hill climbing, on the trail. 8-9# boost at 8-10,000'. In my stock Pro I am running a 100-150 secondary spring 59g weights with a 110-290 primary. Same helix in both, 46-32F- 46-34F.

The helix 46-32f is that a electric reverse helix?
 
Nobody knows anything about which exhaust valve springs to run in a turbo?
I'm assuming that's what sparrky was referring to on page 4.

This is what i'm running in my turbo sled but i also have the RK Version 1 dropin kit.

7041786--11 PINK/YELLOW 9.0 - 11.5 pounds

It was hard to find so i think you have to order them.
 
So team doesn't do custom angles like that 46-34 with a reverse notch?
Or in their mind they do? But the notch isn't big enough to work.

I guess my question is, did Tony start with what team listed as non-reverse helix?
 
7041704-01 Blue 4.0 6.0
7041704-02 Orange 5.5 8.3
7041704-03 Pink 4.7 7.1
7041704-04 Purple 3.1 4.7
7041704-05 Yellow 2.4 3.6
7041704-06 White 1.6 2.8

Found this, not very stiff springs. Are there more polaris ones?.
I guess i can get some new orange ones.
 
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